Palermo archivos - Page 2 of 4 - VOLARE MAGAZINE

Today I’ll take you for a dip into the breath-taking waters of Palermo and Trapani, where I go swimming every summer, topping up my tan and enjoying a well-deserved break.

Palermo is the capital of the amazing microcosm that is Sicily, which was described as “a continent” in early 2021 due to its priceless historical and artistic treasures! Speaking of the wonders of Palermo, we’ve already told you about its famous theatre and endless gastronomic delights!

But when you need to escape from the city, the blue waves that connect Palermo to nearby Trapani will welcome you to their stretch of beaches and coves suitable for all tastes and budgets.

Continue reading if you want to know my favourite beaches and how to reach them!

beaches IN PALERMO

MONDELLO AND CAPO GALLO

About 10 km from Palmero city centre, you can find the renowned Mondello beach, a local favourite!

The gulf, about a kilometre and a half long, is sheltered by Mount Gallo and Mount Pellegrin, and surrounded by the greenery of Parco della Favorita. To reach it, you go down a beautiful road where you can admire amazing Art Nouveau villas. Splash around in its crystal-clear waters right next to the city!

HOW TO GET THERE AND WHERE TO PARK

You have two choices: leave your car in one of the four parking areas (Galatea, Mongibello, Tolomea, Palinuro and viale Aiace), where you can hop on one of the free Amat ferries that arrive every 10 minutes to take you to the beach ; or you can take the 806 bus from Palermo city centre.

SERVICES AND CATERING

There are plenty of bars along Mondello beach to have a nibble or a drink at. You can reserve a table on the website, at an average price of 22 euros for two sunbeds and a parasol, choosing whichever area or lido you prefer.

For real nature lovers who are not looking for comfort, there is also the Capo Gallo Nature Reserve at the end of the Mondello coast, near a small village full of bistros and small fish restaurants. You can get there in three different ways, two of which start at Mondello. But forget about bars and market stalls here, bring your own water and snacks, and get ready to reach your dream beach on foot!

BAIA DEI FRANCESI

This is a small bay between Aspra and Capo Zafferano, about 20 km from Palermo. It’s a hidden gem, which can only be accessed through a private gate open between 8 am and 8 pm during the beach season. Walk down a steep slope alongside the locals’ homes until you find yourself stood in front of an idyllic view: a little beach with rocks, sand, pebbles, and a crystal-clear turquoise sea.

I really recommend bringing everything you need so you don’t end up starving. It’s really worth the trip, even if you only stay for a few hours. Also, Arco Azzurro is a beautiful natural landscape and only a few minutes away on foot.

HOW TO GET THERE AND WHERE TO PARK

The easiest way is to take road 113 and then SP74, driving along the coast from Palermo and Aspra. Once you get there, you can just park on the road.

CEFALÙ

Now we’re leaving Palermo for Cefalú, a gorgeous medieval fishing village that has a unique allure. It has a world-famous Cathedral and lots of brilliant fish restaurants.

Cefalù is also known for its beach, which stretches out along its beautiful Promenade: it’s suitable for those looking for fun, who want to have their aperitif on a lively beach, where the lidos often turn into outdoor discos in the evening.

HOW TO GET THERE AND WHERE TO PARK

You can drive from Palermo along 70 km of the Palermo-Messina motorway, taking the exit after Buonfornello. You can leave your car in the Lungomare Giardina car park for a daily rate of six euros.

Another good option is the direct train for eight euros both ways, from Palermo central station, which drops you off at Cefalú central station in about 45 minutes.

SERVICES AND CATERING

Out of the many lidos on the Promenade, I’d recommend Lido Angeli del mare and Lido Apollo for having lunch or an aperitif as the sun goes down.

ISOLA DELLE FEMMINE

This swimming area is about 20 km from Palermo and is named after the small island around 88 m from the coast, opposite the small town. It’s a protected natural oasis. There are beaches with facilities and rocky areas, but you can make use of the decks with bar areas, showers, and music.

HOW TO GET THERE AND WHERE TO PARK

Take the motorway to Trapani, and then the Capaci/Isola delle Femmine exit after 20 km. Parking isn’t difficult here: every lido on the promenade has its own private car park for about three euros per day. You can also park in the blue-line areas for 50 cents an hour. The train from Palermo is another option: it will take you directly to Isola delle Femmine station, very close to all the lidos.

SERVICES AND CATERING

I’d recommend two extraordinary lidos: Lido Miramare is the best if you love sand, want to rent a pedalo, or want to go to lively beaches and eat the freshest of fish.

Go to Rosa dei Venti if you’re dreaming about a crystal-clear sea that stands out against the rocks and the idea of comfy beach umbrellas and sunbeds not too close to each other, a young atmosphere, great music, and extremely friendly owners who offer aperitifs on the decks and make you feel at home, even gastronomically! I spend a good part of my summers in the city here!

BEACHES IN THE TRAPANI AREA

Let’s move a little further away to the Trapani area: when we Palermitans think of a trip out of town, probably the first places that come to mind are Castellammare del Golfo beach, Faraglioni di Scopello beach, and the Zingaro Nature Reserve.

Take the E90 motorway towards Trapani and, after 65 km, take the Castellammare del Golfo exit. From this point on, the world’s your oyster!

CASTELLAMARE DEL GOLFO

Once you take the exit, keep driving towards Playa.

Here you’ll find a golden, wide, pristine beach with good facilities next to Alcamo Marina beach. The seabed is shallow here, so it’s kid-friendly. All the lidos have their own car parks for five euros per day: all of them also offer showers, bar service and meals (often fish-based).

Another good point? The town is a great place to walk in the evening or have an aperitif looking out onto its little port.

Would you rather spend a day looking for great landscapes with a touch of local history and tradition? Then drive an extra 10 km on SS187 towards Scopello.

FARAGLIONI DI SCOPELLO BEACH

You will see the amazing cliffs in a small bay where an old tuna seller’s shop remains.

The beach is actually the shop’s concrete deck. Pay seven euros to park and seven euros to access the area, including a deckchair and a guided tour of the old shop.

Bring your own food and drink, because there are no lidos or bars at the end of your hike to reach the deck! But also be ready for an astonishing view.

Is a wild day more your thing? Then drive another 3 kilometres on the SP63 until you reach the mesmerising Zingaro Nature Reserve!

ZINGARO NATURE RESERVE

Last but not least, I have a magical place to tell you about: probably the clearest and brightest sea in all of western Sicily. Yes. I like to end with on a high note!

The name alone – Zingaro (gypsy) – makes you want to go on holiday. You can imagine yourself wandering from cove to cove across an untouched natural landscape. This is exactly what you will have the opportunity to do here. Leave the car at the South or North entrance, pay five-euros entry per person, put on your hiking boots and follow one of the paths that lead to each of the seven coves in the Reserve.

The most fascinating and popular cove is Cala Tonnarella dell’Uzzo, which is easily accessible from the North entrance after walking just 700 metres. Bear in mind that there are no bars, showers or refreshments available here.

There are many other enchanting views between Palermo and Trapani, but I think I’ve chosen the right ones, because there’s already a glint in your eye! You’re already raring to go on holiday!You’re ready to book a flight with Volotea!

If you haven’t missed even one of our articles, you’ll already know that Palermo is a many-faceted city with a wealth of delicious food options and arts. But if the urge to escape the urban buzz is irresistible, then this is the article for you: keep reading if you want to plan a trip to explore the unmissable towns and villages around Palermo!

UNESCO World Heritage towns around Palermo: Monreale

Distance between Monreale and Palermo: 30 minutes (10km)
How to get to Monreale: by bus no.389 from Piazza Indipendenza; by car (30 minutes).
Reason for visiting Monreale: Monreale is world famous for its Arab-Norman cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The very first place that springs to mind is Monreale, the famous town and comune just 10km outside of Palermo, overlooking the entire Conca d’Oro (golden shell) valley from 300m asl. Monreale is practically an extension of Palermo, easily reachable by car or bus.

Its highlight is the Cathedral of Santa Maria Nuova, known locally as the Duomo, a fine example of Arab-Norman architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the sites between Palermo and Cefalù.

Its wonderful architecture and its 6,000m² of Byzantine mosaics depicting stories from the Old and New Testaments, all around the perimeter of the building, are worth the trip alone, but there’s also a beautiful cloister with a garden to further embellish one of the best preserved medieval monastery complexes in the world.

Once there, you’ll find two other gems not to be missed: the view of Palermo and the Conca d’Oro plain from the breath-taking viewpoint by the Palazzo del Municipio, and tasting the legendary Monreale bread, which we are still waiting to be added to the World Heritage List!

The prettiest seaside towns around Palermo: Cefalù

Distance between Cefalù and Palermo: 1hr 10min (70km)
How to get to Cefalù: by train from Palermo Centrale station or by car on the E90, in around 50 minutes.
Reasons for visiting Cefalù: the beautiful sea, excellent cuisine, and a wonderful cathedral.

Oh yes! You already heard about this charming coastal town, the “gateway” to the Madonie Park, when we told you about the unmissable beaches around Palermo!

You can get there by train or by car in around 50 minutes. Cefalù is not just about the sea and delicious seafood: to get a full picture of the Arab-Norman sites in and around Palermo, you just must visit its Duomo, which dominates a charming square with its two towers. Another fascinating place to visit is the Mandralisca Museum, which houses artworks and archaeological finds belonging to the private collection of Baron Enrico Pirajno.

If hiking is your thing, then a nice walk on the Rocca (rock) overlooking the town is a must: you’ll enjoy stunning views from there and pass the remains of the Temple of Diana, reaching the top around a couple of hours later, with the ruins of the Castle.

In my view, the two unmissable sights in Cefalù are the Medieval Wash House and Porta Pescara. Whilst the Wash House will immerse you in the everyday life of times past, Porta Pescara, with its gothic arch and views of the bay, will give you that truly instagrammable photo!

Because of its amazing reputation, anyone staying in Palermo usually plans a day trip to Cefalù at the very least. You wouldn’t want to miss it, would you?

Towns to visit around Palermo: the villages of the Madonie Regional Nature Park

We’re staying within the wonderful area of the Madonie UNESCO Global Geopark, where charming villages emerge like mushrooms: from Gangi, the Most Beautiful Village in Italy in 2014, to famous Castelbuono, and on to Polizzi Generosa, Petralia Sottana and Soprana.

Here you can combine art, nature, sport and fine food. My favourite two villages are: Pollina and Geraci Siculo.

Rural villages around Palermo: Pollina

Distance between Pollina and Palermo: 1hr 30mins (95km)
How to get to Pollina: by car on the E90 in around 1hr 20mins.
Reason for visiting Pollina: a small, picturesque hilltop village full of charm, just 15km from Cefalù.

This village is often overlooked but is well worth your time, standing on a rock 750 metres high, from where you can enjoy the stunning views of the bay of Finale di Pollina and the Aeolian Islands. The network of paved streets going up and down will take you to the Torre Maurolico, surviving from the Ventimiglia Castle. In 1979, the Teatro Pietra Rosa was built at its foot, emulating Greek architecture, with amazing views of the Madonie mountains.

Lose yourself among the delightful little alleyways, until you reach the Chiesa Madre (main church) and don’t forget to pop into the Manna Museum, to find out more about a precious product (the sap from the ash tree) from this wonderful area.

Ready for a challenge? Did you know that just 30km from Pollina, in the area of San Mauro Castelverde, is a Zipline 1600m long and 300m high, which can take you to 130km/h in just two minutes? If you’re up for extreme experiences, then you really can’t miss this one!

Rural villages around Palermo: Geraci Siculo

Distance between Geraci Siculo and Palermo: 1hr 45mins (117km)
How to get to Geraci Siculo: by car in less than 2hrs on the E90
Reason for visiting Geraci Siculo: one of the prettiest villages in Italy, with stunning views and the gateway to the Madonie Regional Nature Park

In 2021 it just missed out on the title, taking third place in the list of Most Beautiful Villages in Italy, helped by the reputation gained from the Ventimiglia Joust, a tournament held on horseback, usually in August.

Put on your comfy shoes for a walk from the ruins of Ventimiglia Castle to the Chapel of Sant’Anna, and on to the Bevaio della SS. Trinità (an ancient drinking trough) and the Church of Santo Stefano with its colourful belltower. Also of interest is the MUSeBarch, a museum that tells the story of the Madonie region.

Be sure to visit the Salto dei Ventimiglia, a panoramic viewpoint made from glass and steel, which juts out three metres over a cliff from a wall of rock: it will give you the sensation of stepping into the void, whilst surrounded by a view stretching from the Nebrodi mountains as far as Mount Etna.

To keep the thrills going, also treat yourself to a day at the Madonie Adventure Park just 20 minutes from Geraci Siculo.

Charming villages around Palermo: Sant’Elia and Borgo Parrini

Distance between Sant’Elia/Borgo Parrini and Palermo: approx. 45 minutes (28km)
How to get to Sant’Elia and Borgo Parrini: by car on the SS113 or by local train in around one hour (Sant’Elia); by car on the E90 (Borgo Parrini).
Reasons for visiting Sant’Elia and Borgo Parrini: the former for its amazing beaches and the latter for the famous mural of Frida Kahlo

Here are two gems that are now fully entitled to be considered among the most iconic places, thanks to their visibility on social media: Sant’Elia and Borgo Parrini.

Just 27km outside of Palermo, you’ll find Sant’Elia, not much more than a cluster of houses overlooking the sea.

A meander along the shore will lead you to the famous inlet and you can also reach the overhanging rock where there’s a shrine dedicated to the Madonna, known as the “Madonnina”, a stunning viewpoint overlooking the small bay. A short walk from the small centre is the charming Cape Zafferano, the fishing village of Aspra, in Bagheria, and the famous Spiaggia dei Francesi beach.

Borgo Parrini, meanwhile, is a small rural town in the area of Partinico, around 50km from Palermo.

Visitors are enchanted by a row of houses and a small church, restored to their original splendour thanks to the work of a local entrepreneur, imitating the style of Gaudí and Greek, Sicilian, Portuguese and Arab traditions, with a series of majolica tiles and murals, where blue and yellow alternate with messages of hope and love. Join the queue for a photo in front of the Frida Kahlo murals!

There are plenty of pizzerias in the village and agriturismo farms in the surrounding countryside to finish off your walk with some nice food.

TOWNS to visit around Palermo in the province of Trapani

Medieval towns around Palermo: Erice

Distance between Erice and Palermo: 1hr 45mins (118km)
How to get to Erice: by car on the E90.
Reasons for visiting Erice: it’s one of the most charming towns in the whole of Sicily, thanks to its views, monuments, pastries, and ceramics.

Let’s move on to the province of Trapani, reaching the top of Mount San Giuliano, to explore a medieval town with its own unique and authentic charm. It’s around 115km from Palermo and can be reached by car, perhaps combined with the panoramic funicular from Trapani.

Erice is a warren of alleyways and small squares, with an almost fairytale atmosphere, and even more so when enveloped by its characteristic fog. To finish off, you can enjoy the picture postcard view of the Aegadian Islands and Trapani from its height of 750 metres. Starting from Porta Trapani, you’ll immediately come across the charming Duomo, with its beautiful “lacework” on the ceiling, then climb the 108 steps of the Torre di Re Federico for an amazing view from the top!

Now you can truly lose yourself in the city of a hundred churches! There aren’t really a hundred, but you’ll see one on every corner as you make your way to the Castello di Venere and the Balio Gardens above. Then go down to the Piazza della Loggia and the Cordici Museum. All the time taking in the charms of the countless artisan workshops: carpets, ceramics and coral artefacts will colour your stroll with hues of red, yellow, blue and green.

But Erice is not just about places, views and wonderful medieval buildings: it’s also steeped in legend and tradition, brought to life by characters who have made, and continue to make, its history. Of all these, I can’t fail to mention Maria Grammatico, who has now become the queen of almond paste. Her patisserie on via Vittorio Emanuele is almost a place of pilgrimage for treating yourself to perfection at the end of the day, after a good couscous or some excellent ‘busiate’ (local pasta) with pesto alla trapanese!

An unforgettable break in and around Palermo

Palermo and its surroundings make for a wonderful holiday destination, at whatever time of year you decide to visit Sicily. If you’re coming in the summer, take a look at our guide to the most beautiful beaches in the province; if, on the other hand, you can’t wait to try the local cuisine, you may be interested in where to eat in Palermo and the best places for an appetiser, whilst for culture vultures, Palermo Cathedral and the Teatro Massimo are a must.

To find out more about the area of Palermo, we suggest you also read our post on three unmissable destinations: Scopello, the Marsala Salt Pans and Parco della Fiumara.

It’s been so hard to choose and you could go on forever, but I’m now confident I’ve aroused your curiosity and made you want to explore the unmissable towns and villages around Palermo!

Will you venture to explore the charms of Sicily? We’d love to accompany your trip with the vibrant symphony of this Italian island.

We have put together a unique playlist, filled with the musical authenticity of local Sicilian artists, thus immersing you in the cultural wealth that this land has to offer.

In our quest to discover the secrets of Sicily and its captivating landscape, we got in touch with Nicolò Carnesi, a passionate local artist. By asking him a few questions, we hoped to capture his unique vision of your next destination and get some tips to add a special touch to your Sicilian experience.

Hi Nicolò, thank you for agreeing to this interview. How has your Italian tour been?

It was fun! I had the chance to discover new and beautiful places in Italy and meet some very interesting people (locals and musicians) who shared with me such a great experience!

You were born and raised in Palermo, do you think that Sicily has influenced your music? And in what way?

Obviously. Even though I don’t live there, Sicily is always part of me.

My cultural background has always affected the way I look at the world and it has a great influence on my music and the sound images that I like to create through it. It is something that you carry inside forever.

Where would you take someone who is visiting the island for the first time?

Palermo, no doubt about it. It is the best city for finding that mixture of cultures that makes Sicily so fascinating. It is also the place where I started to play my music, so I would have a lot of stories to tell!

Which venues are good for some live music?

“I Candelai” is an historic club right in the heart of the city. However, Palermo is full of many places where you can find music of every kind played by local and international artists.

Are there any music festivals not to be missed?

Since 2007 I’ve never missed an edition of Ypsigrock. It is held in August in Castelbuono, which is a town located in the Madonie Regional Natural Park. If you like contemporary music, wonderful landscapes and talking to nice people, this is definitely the festival for you.

Is there a local dish and / or drink that you’d suggest trying? And where could we try it?

Sicily is a place where you can find delicious food basically everywhere, but in Palermo I recommend you try the traditional street food. My favourite is pane e panelle (chickpea fritter rolls). Also, don’t miss the chance to taste “cassatelle“, a sort of sweet ravioli with ricotta cheese. Great.

Do you have a favourite spot to go for a walk and perhaps admire the sunset?

One of my favourite places to take a walk far from the chaotic world is Ficuzza. It is a forest which lies below the Rocca Busambra mountain, located in the hinterland of Palermo, near to my birthplace.

And when the weather is hotter, which beach would you recommend for a refreshing swim?

I do not go to the beach very often but when I can I love to visit Zingaro Nature Reserve, it is a magical place.

Sicily is full of historical landmarks, which ones are your favourites?

The historic centre of Cefalù, the Valley of the Temples and the Andromeda Theatre, especially at sunset.

If you could leave on a holiday tomorrow, what Volotea destination would you choose and why?

I would choose Athens! I love ancient Greek culture and I would like to visit the historic places where western culture has its roots.

Palermo, as we all know, is a rich, vibrant, bustling and colourful city, but if you fancy venturing beyond it to explore the surrounding areas, this is definitely the article for curious travellers like yourself!

Sea stacks, focaccia, salt, wine and contemporary art are the highlights that the discerning and curious traveller certainly can’t afford to miss on their trip to discover what lies outside of Palermo.

Happy reading!

Interesting destinations near Palermo: Scopello

Let’s start in the province of Trapani, to the west, where in the summer, but especially out of season, the area of Scopello is without doubt one of the most charming destinations. Picture a small bay with sheer cliffs and imposing sea stacks soaring up from the bluer than blue waters. As well as the charming tuna fishery, now completely restored and an extremely popular venue for exclusive events, the sea stacks provide a backdrop for this famous spot which was actually the setting for some of the scenes in the movie Ocean’s Twelve.

Hire a RIB or a paddle board for a truly sensational experience on the water; nearby Castellammare you’ll find many companies offering boat trips including lunch on board or RIB rental to explore the most beautiful coves. Personally, I’d recommend going out of season or on a weekday, as the area is extremely popular and usually very busy.

And afterwards? Well, you can’t leave Scopello without trying its pane cunzato, or seasoned bread: a kind of focaccia, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, made with tomatoes, oregano, anchovies and cheese, all generously drizzled in locally produced olive oil.

So where can you try it? Practically everywhere in fact, but the locals know that just outside of the small and delightful town of Scopello, there’s a family-run bakery that offers its many customers a few tables right outside, in the shade of the fig trees. The sign says it all; scrawled on a wooden board, it reads “Forno a legna, Pane Cunzatu” (Wood-fired oven. Seasoned Bread), as if to emphasise that here it’s not so much about style but more about substance! You’ll find the bakery at via XXIV Maggio 5.

Interesting destinations near Palermo: The Marsala Salt Pans

Windmills in Sicily? Well of course! The sea salt industry has its roots in the island’s Moorish past and the commodity once known as “white gold” is still produced in the same way today. In the summer along the road you’ll see the mounds of salt left to dry, as well as the basins and the salt workers toiling under the sun. In autumn the salt is lovingly covered with terracotta tiles, the type typically used for the roofs of houses, to protect the salt from the rain and the damp.

But if I had to recommend the best time to visit this magical place, it would have to be at sunset. As the last rays of the sun kiss the sea, the salt pans take on a vast array of pinkish and purplish hues, the windmills in the distance stand out against the skyline, whilst flocks of pink flamingos fly towards the sun or simply remain in the middle of the basins, looking for the last little fish.

The best place to watch this amazing spectacle is Mamma Caura, a small restaurant at the “Ettore Infersa” salt pans, the main ones along the coast, where you can buy salt, be it highly or less refined, and in particular the precious salt flakes with their delicate flavour.

The old factory has been converted into a small museum where you can discover all the secrets of the harvesting and processing, and if you book in advance you can enjoy a real salt worker experience in the ancient basins no longer in use.

The Ettore Infersa Salt Pans can be easily reached from the Trapani-Marsala coast road, following the directions to l’Imbarcadero Storico di Mozia (the historical pier of Mozia). As you sip a glass of chilled wine (the province of Trapani is renowned for its whites), you’ll enjoy an enchanting and incredibly romantic moment, perfect for declarations of love, proposals or simply for falling in love with this stretch of coast.

But if you’re not the romantic kind, why not board the boat that cuts through the waters of the lagoon to take you to Mozia, the ancient Phoenician settlement? Alternatively, if you’re looking for a bit more action, you could take a few kitesurfing lessons on the Stagnone lagoon.

This lagoon is home to fluttering pink flamingos, and daredevils can try their hand at some amazing acrobatics as they take advantage of the wind that’s always blowing at full strength.

Interesting destinations near Palermo: Parco della Fiumara

We now leave the province of Trapani behind us and turn towards Messina. Did you know that you’ll find Europe’s largest open air museum of contemporary art in Sicily? A dried-up riverbed is home to the wonderful installations sponsored by patron Antonio Presti and created by some of Italy’s greatest contemporary artists.

The exhibits dominate a practically unknown area, creating a beautiful and charming landscape involving all the local municipalities: Castel di Tusa, Motta d’Affermo, Pettineo and others, with the idea of creating a popular museum and bringing together villages and hamlets that are now almost uninhabited.

The works all blend into the landscape nicely and you can go inside some of them and lose yourself, such as in the magnificent Labirinto di Arianna (Ariadne’s Labyrinth) by Italo Lanfredini, standing on the hill overlooking Castel di Lucio. Others almost want to relate to the laws of the universe, such as the Piramide 38° parallelo (Pyramid of the 38^th Parallel) by Mario Staccioli, where the “Rito della Luce” (Ritual of Light) is celebrated every year on the night of the summer solstice. You certainly can’t go there without feeling an intense, ancient and powerful energy that remains within your heart as well as in your memory.

labirinto di Arianna parco della Fiumara

Simply type “Fiumara d’Arte” into Google Maps to find all the installations and decide which of these are of most interest to you. In addition to those already mentioned, I would personally also recommend you visit the “Finestra sul Mare” (Window to the Sea) by Tano Festa, a frame that blends in with the blues of the sky and the sea, and which you can find along the coast road to Messina.

And now, not to detract from the beauty of these places, I should remind you that we are in the home of the granita and in Castel di Tusa itself you’ll find a tiny bar serving some truly wonderful granitas. It’s called Porto Marina and it’s a real Aladdin’s cave for genuine food lovers (the vegetables come from the owner’s kitchen garden), but above all for lovers of delicious granitas accompanied by the obligatory Sicilian brioche, brioscina con tuppo, (literally ‘brioche with chignon”), slightly sweet, with a dollop of whipped cream to finish it off.

This bar is easy to find, at Via Nazionale 61. The owner is lovely and will be delighted to welcome you.

This list is quite short and I can assure you that I could go on and on listing all the beautiful places, both the well- and lesser-known, in Sicily, but I’d like to leave you with one piece of advice: enjoy the little things, the smiles on the locals’ faces, appreciate the generosity that you’ll be shown. If you’ve decided to venture into the heart of Sicily you’re sure to be richly rewarded.

And if you’re interested in finding out more about the wonders around Palermo, you can also read our article on the unmissable towns and villages around the city.

In Volare Magazine I gave you some tips on the best appetisers in Palermo. I also offered some advice on the most charming towns and the best coves in and around the city. Now it’s time to take a look at the postcard sights of Palermo: read on to find out more about Palermo Cathedral and Arab-Norman heritage!

A bit of background: the Normans were tolerant rulers at a time of great splendour throughout Sicily, and they encouraged the various cultures to integrate, but never at the expense of their own identities. Islamic artists and Byzantine mosaicists enriched the simple Norman structures with their art, resulting in the perfect combination of the Eastern and Western worlds.

This is the real treasure that Palermo has to offer, and that’s why the Arab-Norman style has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, consisting of as many as nine sites, in Palermo, Monreale and Cefalù. So come and explore them soon!

PALERMO CATHEDRAL

There’s no better place to start with than the majestic giant that is Palermo Cathedral, a truly eye-popping sight. It’s a definite wow moment!

It was consecrated in 1185 by Archbishop Walter Ophamil, during the reign of William II of Sicily, who instigated the construction of Monreale Cathedral almost simultaneously.

The cathedral actually stands on the site of the former Friday Mosque, which in turn had been adapted to the Islamic faith from an earlier Paleo-Christian basilica! Can’t you just feel the wonder of these intertwining cultures? And what about the inscription of verses from the Quran, on full display in a Catholic cathedral? Well, in a city like Palermo, anything is possible!

Islamic-style arches and geometric motifs are featured in the Norman structure, which typically resembles a fortress, to which the huge 15^th century door, a masterpiece in Catalan-Gothic style, was added during Spanish rule. The enormous Neoclassical dome and the small domes covered in majolica tiles, added during the Bourbon era, prompt many to ask ‘why?!’, but in the eyes of us locals, lovers of excess in all its forms, it all looks very harmonious!

While it’s true that the cathedral is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, it’s also true that the role of the First Lady is shared with the one and only Santuzza, or patron saint, of Palermo: the Patron Saint Rosalia, whose statue, as powerful as it is reassuring, dominates the area in front of the cathedral and whose relics are kept in the cathedral in the chapel dedicated to her.

Despite its simplicity, there are plenty of charming corners and precious treasures inside, such as the Royal Tombs.

But let’s focus on the most interesting aspect: Palermo is finally beginning to see some rooftop bars and many amazing panoramic views can now be enjoyed from the rooftops of some of its important buildings.

From below you can see hundreds of people on the rooftops of the cathedral, and you’ll just be dying to join them up there!

Palermo Cathedral Hours

Monday – Saturday: 7am–7pm Sunday: 8 am-7pm

Access to Monument Area:

Monday – Saturday 9:30am–6pm Sunday: 10am–6pm

(includes Rooftops, Royal Tombs, Crypt, Apses, Treasure, Underground Areas). Full ticket: €12

THE NORMAN PALACE AND PALATINE CHAPEL

The Arab-Norman heritage of Palermo is not limited to just the Cathedral, although it is certainly the star of the show!

Just as interesting is the Norman Palace, the oldest royal residence in Europe and now home to the oldest parliament in the world.

It was by order of Roger II, the first Norman king, that in 1130 the masterpiece that is the Palatine Chapel was built within the palace. Here, it’s all about the union between East and West. The beautiful mosaics depict engaging scenes from the Old and New Testament as well as of Christ Pantocrator, instilling respect but also being very moving at the same time.

What is truly unique, though, is the muqarnas ceiling with its scenes of court life and the Arab world, representing a kind of heaven on earth for the king. It is one of the very few examples to be found in Europe.

As you make your way to the chapel, you cross the 17^th century Maqueda Courtyard, from where you can also access the Royal Apartments.

The Federico II Foundation runs the events that take place at the palace, including temporary exhibitions. Until 1 October 2023 you can visit the Omar Hassan Temporary Exhibition Punctum in the Sala Duca di Montalto.

Hours

Monday-Saturday: 8:30am-4:30pm Sunday: 8:30am-12:30pm. Full ticket: €19

From Tuesday to Thursday the Royal Apartments will be closed to the public. As a result, tickets will be reduced to €15.50.

CHURCH OF SAN GIOVANNI DEGLI EREMITI

Still in the vicinity of the Royal Palace and less than a five-minute walk away, you’ll come across a building a truly iconic place in Palermo that’s still steeped in mystery to this day.

Little is known about the complex of San Giovanni degli Eremiti other than the fact that it was instigated by Roger II as a possible place of burial for the Hauteville family. You’ll be amazed when you realise that this is a church and not a mosque: those five red domes, combined with a belltower, will fool you!

The church is flanked by a romantic-style garden, full of fan palms, loquats, carob trees and citrus trees, but the view of the cloister adjacent to the church is what will get you millions of likes!

Hours

Monday-Saturday: 9am-6:30pm Sunday: 9am-1:30pm Full ticket: €6

LA ZISA

Al-ʿAzîz palace, meaning “the splendid”, was designed as a summer residence for the kings, as it was surrounded by the Norman royal park, the Genoardo. At the time, the Hauteville family promoted the construction of their “sollazzi regi” (literally ‘royal amusements’), residences designed for leisure, surrounded by luxuriant vegetation and hunting lodges.

Here, Arab culture is also evident in the form of engineering principles that allow for efficient ventilation, with the palace facing north-east and water fountains keeping the air cool as they combine with the breeze.

The palace houses the Museum of Islamic Art, with finds from around the Mediterranean.

Hours

Tuesday-Saturday: 9am-7pm. Sunday: 9am-1:30pm Full ticket: €6

CHURCHES OF LA MARTORANA AND SAN CATALDO

I’m combining these two gems just to make your life easier, as both can be found in Piazza Bellini.

In Palermo, we have a nickname for just about everything: to us, the famous Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio is simply known as La Martorana because the nuns in the neighbouring convent, no longer in existence, guided by the Mother Superior Eloisa Martorana, created one of Sicily’s most iconic sweets, Frutta Martorana.

Like the cathedral, you’ll see the combination of three styles in perfect harmony: Arab-Norman, alongside a Baroque extension separating it from a Gothic-style belltower. Wonderful Byzantine mosaics and magnificent Baroque frescos adorn the interior.

As you pass by, you are likely to see plenty of brides, one after the other, as this is one of the most sought-after churches in Palermo for weddings.

Beside it stands the famous Church of San Cataldo, in its simplicity becoming a symbol of Palermo due to the red domes reminiscent of those of San Giovanni degli Eremiti. And no, this isn’t a mosque either!

This square can make you very emotional, so brace yourself before you turn the corner!

Hours

Church of La Martorana:

Monday-Saturday: 9:45am–1pm Full ticket: €2

Church of San Cataldo:

Every day 10am-6pm Full ticket: €2.50. If you have a ticket for the Church of La Martorana, the entry fee is reduced to €1.50.

CEFALU’ CATHEDRAL AND MONREALE CATHEDRAL

I’ve already mentioned Monreale and Cefalù in the article on the unmissable towns and villages around Palermo.

You’ll remember that two masterpieces of the Arab-Norman style dominate the main squares of these two towns.

Cefalù Cathedral is another example of the style that emerged following the vow made to the Saviour by Roger II, who survived a storm through divine intervention and washed up safe and sound on the shores of this fishing village. Without romanticising things too much, I’d say that it is really political interests that lay behind its construction and that the same interests led to the creation of Monreale Cathedral on the part of William II of Hauteville, who wanted it to stand at the foot of Monte Caputo overlooking Palermo.

Once again, you’ll see Islamic geometric mosaics, Byzantine mosaics with biblical scenes and Christ Pantocrator. 6,500m² of mosaics will surround you once inside!

In short, the Palatine Chapel in Palermo on steroids, which could fit into this ten times!

Finish off with a nice stroll through the beautiful Cloister, where at last you can take a moment to reflect on these peaceful surroundings.

Hours

Cefalù Cathedral:

Every day 8am-12:45pm and 3:30pm-6pm

Monreale Cathedral:

Monday-Saturday: 9am-12:45pm and 2pm-5pm Sunday: 2pm-5pm

So, have I sparked your interest?

You can’t afford to miss all this splendour, so start planning your trip to Palermo right now by booking a flight with Volotea!

Palermo is the ideal destination for foodies. As you stroll around, a thousand aromas will reach your nostrils, tempting you to stop on every corner to try the local street food or to sit in one of the numerous eateries in the old town.

You’ll have already read my tips for all pockets, but you may fancy something indulgent and less filling, or perhaps an aperitif and an appetiser before dinner itself.

You’ll know that timings are quite relaxed on the Mediterranean: dinner is eaten fairly late and the ritual of the aperitivo rinforzato, (literally ‘reinforced appetiser’) between the hours of 7pm and 9.30pm has now become a must. In Palermo we don’t joke about serious matters and the appetiser, or aperitivo, is certainly serious business: it’s pointless to say it, but booking is essential almost everywhere.

Do you want to try the best appetisers in town? Read on for all the tips on where to go for an appetiser in Palermo!

The best appetiser in Palermo: MOODDICA!

Via Bottai, 34/36

There’s no question; in my view it’s the best appetiser in Palermo in terms of quality and quantity, in fact at Mooddica I’m almost at home along with so many of my friends!

We’re right in the heart of the old town, on Via Bottai, a narrow pedestrian street full of wine bars off the lower stretch of Cassaro: there’s a lively vibe here, with background music that’s not invasive and allows you to have a nice relaxing chat as you enjoy a drink and a bite to eat. The perfect place both at weekends and on weekdays, Mooddica welcomes you into its charming little venue with the warmth that only a thousand bottles of wine can exude!

Choose their platters of excellent cheeses and charcuterie, which are quite sought after and strictly Sicilian, accompanied by artisan jams and preserves, complemented by little rice or pasta timbales, potato and vegetable flans, omelettes, bruschetta with pâté and “pane cunzato” (homemade seasoned bread, typically with primosale cheese, tomato, oregano, anchovies, perhaps marinated, oil and salt). The vegetarian dishes are also delicious, with gluten-free options available too. Wash it all down with some great artisan beers and wines, mainly local to the region, or with a classic cocktail. There’s no shortage of fine wines from other parts of Italy either, knowledgeably selected by Gianni, the owner, who’s also a sommelier.

And what are you thinking of? Aren’t you going to try their amazing cannolo filled to order after your platter?!

FERRAMENTA, the chic appetiser in Palermo

Piazza Giovanni Meli, 8

I also love the dishes at this well-known wine bar and restaurant, extremely popular with the locals.

In what was once the historic ironmongers Ferramenta D’Arpa, Buffa e Figli in Piazza Meli, Ferramenta has been created in the vein of making use of former family-run concerns and following the rule of never throwing anything away, but to recycle, now a trend in many old shops in the centre of Palermo. The same drawers, the same Billiemi stone floors, the same tuff walls and the same sign to maintain the continuity and individuality of the place. Luckily, though, you won’t find any nails or spanners on the shelves; today, Ferramenta treats you to some wonderful moments with Bacchus!

The venue is run by expert sommeliers, and this is reflected in the excellent selection of wines, from both national and international wineries, as well as cocktails and beers to accompany your appetisers: you can pick your own selection from the menu of antipasti, mini pizzas and charcuterie to create your favourite surf & turf combo. There are also starters and mains on the menu.

As it’s à la carte, this is definitely not a cheap appetiser, but it’s certainly worth it due to the quality of the dishes and the vibrant atmosphere, thanks to the square that’s also packed with people standing around just having a drink, a custom typical of Palermo.

For a partying appetiser in Palermo, let’s all go to CANTAVESPRI!

Vicolo Valguarnera, 10

Cantavespri is a cert for those of us who love a good drink and some live music: there’s live music here almost every evening and a definite party atmosphere. The square and the venue itself fill up from appetiser time, and these are even more substantial (or “reinforced”) thanks to the new chef, who has devised a proper restaurant-style menu, established for some years now. And last but not least, the style of the furnishings is wonderful, with the details and colours blending well within the context of the splendid neo-gothic palace in the district of Kalsa, where Cantavespri is located.

You can opt for their tasting platter, which includes pasta, fried food, mini pizzas, mini burgers, charcuterie and finger food, or for individual dishes.

It’s very easy to spend the whole evening here: the live music normally starts between 9.30pm and 10pm, just after the appetiser, with a different band every night, after which one of the city’s top DJs takes over. To burn off a few calories after your appetisers, you can (and should) dance late into the night: definitely an evening to be had if you want to experience some Palermo nightlife!

PASQUALINO, THE LITTLE TAVERN FOR A GOOD DRINK: casual but substantial appetisers

Via generale Magliocco, 64

Here’s something more authentic, to nourish your soul, but especially your stomach. On Via Magliocco, near the Teatro Massimo, you’ll find Pasqualino. Here you can have a nice drink, but the real ace up its sleeve is its legendary platter of local “carnazza” (meat), carefully selected by inland producers. Sicilian involtini (rolled meats), arrosto panato (beef in breadcrumbs), spare ribs and, a dish more typical of Palermo it’s impossible to find, sasizza (Palermo-style sausage with fennel seeds) and mangia e bevi (spring onions wrapped in pancetta and chargrilled) are served on a board that includes charcuterie, cheeses, bruschetta, potatoes and vegetables; you can also order vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free versions.

Often, so as not to refute the reputation of the Palermo foodie and to honour them, with friends we also order some pinze (a flat kind of focaccia) some filled flatbreads or cunzati bread for sharing, another of their specialities. You can eat outside in the square, but there’s also plenty of room to sit inside. A relaxed atmosphere, an extremely nice and approachable owner, customers “inebriated by the dishes”: this will all make you feel at home and ready to spend a few hours here!

The historic appetiser in Palermo? IL VESPA!

I’m staying in the Theatre area to tell you about a venue that has created the history of the appetiser in Palermo and where I’ve spent many an evening in great company and, I would add, also without all my faculties by the end of the evening! On Via dell’Orologio, a narrow pedestrian street packed with bars and restaurants, just off Piazza Verdi, you can enjoy the forerunner of the sharing platters at what was once the Vespa Café, now simply Il Vespa.

The formula is simple, but plentiful and good quality, mainly based on a variety of dishes where, to everyone’s delight, there are lots of carbohydrates: bruschetta, mini burgers, savoury croissants, small portions of pasta, vegetables in batter, potatoes and tastings of schiacciate and sfincione, a kind of focaccia with tomato, onion, oregano, anchovies and caciocavallo cheese from Palermo. (Pleeeease don’t call it pizza!)

Il Vespa is very popular with the locals and it’s not easy to find a space. There are tables inside and just a few on the street. The joyful atmosphere of the venue will put you in a weekend mood six days out of seven, perfectly described by a phrase written on one of its walls: “Better a Vespa today than a car tomorrow”.

For an unconventional appetiser, try SABIR

Via Quintino Sella, 49

Let’s move on to the area of the Teatro Politeama, that’s to say, the more elegant and residential part of central Palermo, just a few steps from the old town.

Here, on Via Quintino Sella, which with Via La Lumia and the adjacent side streets forms a rectangle bursting with Palermo nightlife, you’ll find Sabir, a very special wine bar, where the appetiser is a little journey along the shores of the Mediterranean. This indoor-only venue is strikingly charming, deliciously inspired by Turkish cafés and hammams. Their appetiser plate offers a series of snacks that will immerse you in the flavours of the Mediterranean. From Lebanese couscous -but obviously Sicilian too-, to Palestinian hummus, potato and Greek feta flan, bruschetta with Tunisian mechouia, Sicilian caponata, Andalusian-style chicken, beef kebab with mint ayran and various Sicilian bruschettas.

Their real forte is combining the dishes with carefully created cocktails, making ample use of herbs, these also inspired by Mediterranean flavours. If you’re looking for an appetiser that’s a bit out of the ordinary and are maybe open to the idea of trying a hookah, Sabir is definitely the place for you!

By now it’s clear: in Palermo there’s plenty to enjoy, especially in the old town; you just need to choose… or simply try all the best places for an appetiser! The sacred ritual of Happy Hour will be a time to get together, enjoy yourself, as well as a chance to see how in Palermo “you never die of hunger or thirst”!

Forget about the diet and satisfy your eyes and your appetite, and fly to Palermo now!

Volotea celebrates its 10th anniversary! To celebrate this important milestone, we invite you to retrace the company’s 10 years through the discovery of 10 Volotea bases.

On 5 April 2012, a new low-cost airline made its first flight from Venice to Cagliari. Since then, Volotea aircraft have crossed European skies, transporting more than 40 million passengers and connecting more and more cities: today we have over 100 destinations in 16 countries with a map of 360 routes, and keep growing.

Volotea cities are the heart and essence of flying so, to celebrate our anniversary, we thought we would introduce you to some of our operational bases.

We invite you to leave with us on a journey back in time to discover 10 cities that have made the history of the company. 10 bases, one per year, the year of their inauguration.

2012: NANTES

The charming old town, the relaxing green spaces and the dynamic cultural life will win you over as soon as you set foot in Nantes.

This lively city located along the Loire estuary is full of tourist attractions and art displays; the many works of art and museums have in fact contributed to giving new life to the city, renewing its industrial heritage.

Unmissable experiences in Nantes:

Cycle along the green line to discover one of the most “bike-friendly” cities in France
Spend an evening at the Hangar à bananes, one of the many bars, restaurants and displays overlooking the Loire
Discover the installations on the Estuaire Trail between Nantes and Saint-Nazaire
Taste Muscadet wine in the city bars or exploring the vineyards in the Nantes region
Immerse yourself in culture visiting the city’s main monuments and museums, like the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, the Cathedral, and the Museum of Fine Arts

2013: PALERMO

Palermo will cast a spell on your senses: eclectic, chaotic, fragrant, colourful, with a fascinating millenary history that peeps out on every corner, Palermo is a continuous discovery. Its rich cultural heritage, its exotic, lively personality, its fantastic gastronomy, and its paradise beaches near the city are just some of the things that make Palermo one of the most surprising destinations in Italy.

Unmissable experiences in Palermo:

Visit the Cathedral and the catacombs
Try the street food and Sicilian specialties
Take a swim in the many dream beaches along the Palermo coast
Explore the Teatro Massimo and the entire historic centre

2014: ASTURIAS

Asturias is famous as a true paradise for lovers of nature and active life: lush natural parks, long wild beaches where you can surf or relax in the sun, mountains to explore where you can do some fantastic trekking… But those looking for a culture break will not be disappointed by Asturias: the cities, the charming small villages and the traditional museums are unmissable, as well as the rich local gastronomy. You will always be warmly welcome!

Unmissable experiences in Asturias:

Visit the three main cities of the region: Oviedo, Gijón, and Avilés.
Unwind in one of the stunning local natural parks , where time seems to have stood still
Try the local specialities in one of the charming seaside villages, such as Llanes or Cudillero
Surf the waves at one of the endless local beaches, like Peñarronda.

2015: VERONA

Ever since Shakespeare chose it as the setting for his famous tragedy of Romeo and Juliet, Verona has earned a reputation as the romantic city par excellence. Indeed, this Unesco World Heritage city will conquer anyone’s heart, thanks to a well-preserved historic centre, a Roman Arena where unmissable operas are staged, a splendid province where rolling hills give unique wines to the world. And who wouldn’t like to sip a spritz while lazily watching life from one of the city’s magnificent piazze?

Unmissable experiences in Verona:

Attend a concert in the dreamy Verona Arena
Enjoy a break from exploring the historic centre in Piazza delle Erbe, the beating heart of the city
Declare eternal love to your partner (or to yourself) under Juliet’s balcony
Have a delicious aperitif and taste the excellent local wines, such as Lugana or Valpolicella
Take a trip to Lake Garda, with its Mediterranean climate, its spas, and the charming villages scattered along its shores

2016: TOULOUSE

Lively Toulouse, France’s fourth largest city, is known as “the pink city” for the colour of its buildings, which take on a particularly striking hue in the light of sunset. The beautiful Vieux Quartier, the historic centre, seamlessly flows into the more modern and busy part of Toulouse, a cutting-edge research hub as well as an important university city. The diverse urban landscape has a beautifully melancholy air when viewed from the old bridges over the Garonne.

Unmissable experiences in Toulouse:

Stroll through the alleys of the Carmes district
Enjoy a show in one of Toulouse’s cultural institutions: La Cave Poésie or the Cineteca, both on rue du Taur
Enjoy local delicacies and wines and go shopping in the elegant Saint-Etienne district
Like Nantes, Toulouse also has its own space dedicated to giants: the Giant Machines in the Montaudran district
At sunset, take a relaxing walk along the banks of the Garonne and admire the incredible view over the Dôme de la Grave!

2017: BILBAO

If you are an architecture fan, Bilbao is undoubtedly a must. With its avant-garde museums, including the incredible Guggenheim, and futuristic buildings, the city has focused on new architectural trends and culture to recycle its industrial past. We feel you should also know that some of the best chefs in the world have opened their restaurants here, and the beaches near Bilbao are spectacular. Already looking for a plane ticket to the Basque Country, are you?

Unmissable experiences in Bilbao:

Marvel at the Guggenheim’s stunning titanium building and admire its collection of modern art
At lunchtime, take a tour of the different bars in the picturesque Casco Viejo to do some “picar” (nibbling) on pintxos and txacoli (the local sparkling wine)
Treat yourself to a dreamy boat ride along the Ría, the urban estuary where the river meets the sea
If you visit the city in early July, don’t miss the huge BBK music festival, where world-famous musicians perform every year

2018: ATHENS

Athens, the birthplace of democracy, is one of those cities you absolutely must visit once in a lifetime. Not only because of its incredible historical heritage, which is a real draw for tourists from all over the world, but also for its irresistible atmosphere: Athens knows it has a lot to offer, but it doesn’t seem to give too much importance to its own beauty. It is precisely this informal and somewhat anarchic air that made us fall in love with her. Trust us on this.

Unmissable experiences in Athens:

After making a stop at the Acropolis, discover the most authentic Athens by following the advice of our local experts
Greek cuisine is a true explosion of flavours; try its most distinctive dishes in Plaka restaurants
Discover the hipster soul of Athens and its vibrant cultural and nightlife in more alternative neighbourhoods, like Metaxourgeio
Enjoy the view of the city from the top of Mount Lycabettus, preferably at sunset
Depart from here to discover the wonderful Greek islands, such as Mykonos or Santorini

2019: CAGLIARI

The capital of Sardinia is a delightful town on a human scale, perfect for a break from the island’s paradise beaches but also to enjoy a cultural weekend any time of the year. In the charming fortified district of Castello you can take a walk through history and enjoy splendid views of the city, while in the port area you will be greeted by the salty air and typical trattorias serving gorgeous fish dishes. A few kilometres from the town centre, the lovely coastline is particularly lively in the summer months, while the lagoon areas are the home habitat of pink flamingos and many other bird species.

Unmissable experiences in Cagliari:

Enjoy the view of the city and its surroundings from one of its seven hills
Treat yourself to a delicious aperitif at Saint Remy fortress
Immerse yourself in the history of Sardinia with a visit to the National Archaeological Museum
Spend the afternoon swimming and the evening lounging around at Poetto beach
Watch the diverse aquatic fauna in Molentargius Park

2020: NAPLES

Could its proximity to Mount Vesuvius be the reason why Naples releases so much energy? Or is it the influence of its three millennia of history, which have seen a succession of invasions, attacks, and natural disasters, forging the character of this city so strongly? Whatever the explanation, no one can remain indifferent to the chaotic but absolutely irresistible personality of this city that assaults its visitors’ senses. The smells of Neapolitan gastronomy, the noises of traffic and street vendors, the colours of the hanging clothes and the Nativity figurines, the view of its gulf, one of the most beautiful in the world… Naples is not a destination, it’s a state of mind that cannot be described. One you need to experience.

Unmissable experiences in Naples:

Take a leisurely stroll through the alleys of the historic centre, a World Heritage Site
Prepare your stomach for the local street food: pizza, sfogliatelle, babà, cuoppo, and so on and so forth. And of course don’t forget na tazzulella e cafè!
Explore the city from an alternative point of view from underground Naples
Plan a trip to Pompeii and the beautiful islands in the Gulf of Naples

2021: LYON

The home city of the Lumière brothers is not only pilgrimage site for cinephiles, but for all art lovers. With over 20 spectacular museums, gorgeous UNESCO-protected neighbourhoods, and cultural offerings for all tastes, elegant Lyon bewitches beauty lovers. Good food also has its home here: your mouth will water constantly in the gourmet capital of France.

Unmissable experiences in Lyon:

Get lost in the corridors of the Musée des Confluences as you go on a journey through the history of humanity
Try typical Lyonnaise cuisine in the local bouchons
Find the many street art works scattered around the city
Witness the evocative performances of the Festival of Lights, held every year in early December

And the Volotea cities continue to increase: the latest arrival is Lille, the new base we opened in 2022. We invite you to discover all the cities you can reach with our flights and keep getting inspired, discovering, travelling!

Sicilian Rhapsody

A web series to discover Sicily

I have already mentioned in my article on the Teatro Massimo that the building dominates a very central square in Palermo. From Piazza Verdi, many of the city tours meander off to explore the wonders of a city that boasts an entire UNESCO itinerary, unique in the world with its Arab-Norman style.

What I have not told you yet is that right behind the theatre, in one of the four ancient districts of the city, is one of the liveliest historic markets of the city: il CAPO.

STREET FOOD TOURS IN THE HISTORIC MARKETS

Streaty tours, which is now present in several Italian cities, is one of the operators that will take you off the beaten track to the most authentic areas of Palermo on its street food tours, which combine local gastronomy with art in perfect “street style”. You walk around with your mouth watering, always ready to take the perfect photo in a lively area filled with stalls, fried food, local specialities, and, most importantly, real o locals.

FIRST STOP: MERCATO DEL CAPO

Setting out from the theatre, you immediately reach Porta Carini, the historic entrance to il Capo Market. Panelle (Sicilian fritters), cazzilli (croquettes) and the legendary sfincionello (fried pizza dough) are all preceded by the queen of street food: the Arancina. A feminine word, because the celebrated rice ball, which is so terrible for low calorie diets, is a SHE. The Arancina is a “fimmina” (female) as all Palermitans say, in eternal rivalry with their Catanian cousins.

arancina palermo — A batch of Palermitan *arancine*, because one is never enough!

SECOND STOP: MERCATO DELLA VUCCIRIA

Once you have finished strolling around and tasting food at il Capo, at Vucciria Market you can enjoy a glass of local wine in the iconic places that have made the history of the Market it is, involving incredible characters that inhabit it in the mornings, who have now been regulars for decades.

Today, the district is among the most popular places for night-life, when the air fills with aromas and smoke from the “rarigghie” (grills) of the “stigghiolari” (veal or lamb). On their grills, now often in the morning too, mangia e bevi, sasizza e stigghiola are sizzling away. Let me explain what these are: the first is spring onion wrapped in pancetta, followed by the legendary Palermitan sausage with fennel seeds, and topping it all off with the famous veal or lamb intestines. Ranking them is impossible: they are all specialities for which any Palermitan would sell their soul to the devil just to satisfy their desire for these sinful delights!

“O VUÓ SCHETTU O MARITATU?”

If the arancina is the queen of street food, u Pane ca meusa is the king. It definitely isn’t to everyone´s taste. But you cannot claim to have been to Palermo unless you have at least tried one bite. We are talking about a rolls stuffed with chopped veal lung and spleen, “schettu” (single), meaning with just lemon, or “maritatu” (married), with Sicilian caciocavallo cheese added.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST: GELATO!

Sicilian pastries are among the richest and most decadent in Italy, so our gastronomic tour can only end with a local desert: brioche with gelato in the summertime or a cannolo with ricotta in the cooler seasons.

And talking of desserts, in a previous article we talked about the best bakeries in Palermo, which are now very common in the city.

ALTERNATIVES FOR EATING, SITTING IN COMFORT

You will find the map indications at the end of the article.

A FEW STEPS FROM THE THEATRE

If you don’t want to be on the road, nearby the theatre there are various choices for lunch or dinner.

Right in front of the theatre, via Maqueda is flourishing and has undergone a complete restyling: thanks to its pedestrianisation, which began around six years ago, the main street of Palermo is now strewn with bars, pizzerias, street food stalls, bistrots, and osterias.

Walking as far as Quattro Canti, the now celebrated Bisso Bistrot will give you the thrill of a complete meal for just 15 euros, drinks included. It is a traditional osteria, but at the same time modern in its management style and has brought new value to the original spaces of the historic bookshop Libreria Dante.

involtini pesce bisso bistrot palermo — Bisso Bistrot’s swordfish rolls, colourful, and tasty

If you want to taste carefully handled fresh fish, by means of a side street leading from via Maqueda you can reach Piazza Sant’Onofrio and enjoy a bit of fresh air at Pani e Alivi, also an osteria, specialised in seafood.

Another safe bet, if it is fish you want, is Osteria Mercede, right behind the Teatro Massimo, not far on foot. Its chef, Helios, is a star performer with a magic touch, and has created his dream of an osteria for just a few close friends, where he pours his heart into the strictly Sicilian recipes he cooks.

piatto osteria mercede palermo — *Osteria* Mercede’s Busiate tenerumi e cozze

Beyond via Maqueda and right opposite the theatre, is the nightlife area that we have always called “Champagneria”. In fact, Champagneria, now “Bottiglieria del Massimo”, is just one of the bars in the area, but it is so well known that the whole area became known by that name by extension. It has an extensive selection of wines and beers on the menu. Also worth a mention in the area, are FUD and the Vespa Cafè, known respectively for their excellent Sicilian burgers made with local products and the delicious appetisers to share.

FUD Bottega Sicula palermo — FUD, Bottega Sicula

OSTERIAS FOR ALL TASTES

All you need to do is cross via Roma and walk 15 minutes on foot from the theatre to reach

Osteria Nonna Dora
Osteria Mangia e Bevi

Traditional style and food at modest prices to taste the most local dishes you could wish for.

osteria mangia e bevi palermo — View from the outside of Osteria Mangia e Bevi and of the characteristic, famous little square

By crossing Vucciria and going along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, you can reach Osteria Ballarò on via Calascibetta, for a more intense dinner, full of atmosphere. It is an osteria by name, but is actually a high-level restaurant, refined, but with a warm and charming atmosphere.

linguine osteria ballaro palermo — Osteria Ballarò’s Green linguine with basil pesto, candied lemon and seafood

GOURMET PLATTERS AND HAUTE CUISINE SIDE-BY-SIDE

Do you want to sample local delicacies, but not the osteria type? Well, just carry on down Corso Vittorio Emanuele to reach the Piazza Marina area.

In via dei Bottai, a characteristic and compact little street right behind the square, there is a little place specialised in bread and local produce: it is called “Mooddica”, which is a play on words, as muddíca, which means the soft part of bread in Sicilian. Here, precisely bread, in all its forms and varieties, accompanies platters of cured meats and cheeses, with little home-made samples on the side in line with the seasons and local availability. There is no shortage of artisan beers and excellent wines, and some of the best cannoli in all Palermo.

Other local delights, with a medium-high price range, at around 20-30 minutes on foot from the theatre:

Gagini Social Restaurant
L’Ottava Nota
Osteria Tannura

Here, you will be licking your lips at the excellent fish dishes with the most innovative pairings. The menus are revised periodically, taking seasonal produce into account.

piatto Ottava Nota Palermo — As beautiful as an oil painting, this is “Bontà su piatto” (“Goodness on a plate”), at L’Ottava Nota

FOOD MAPS:

Well, what can I say?

You don’t need me to convince you: Palermo sells itself. It is a place that has everything: art, history, traditions, good food, night life, wonderful people, sun, sea, and surroundings not to be missed. What are you waiting for? Hurry and book a Volotea flight, the locals are dying to meet you… and to feed you!

Whether you are an art lover or a history buff, whether you want to enjoy good food, the crystal-clear sea, amazing views or are just itching to get to know a great people, I am fairly sure that over recent years Palermo has been pretty near the top of your wish list of places to visit as soon as you possibly can.

For around five years now, the boom that arose out of the regeneration of its old town and resulting selection of various airlines to make it one of the top destinations has led to a tourist invasion of the Sicilian capital like never before.

Palermo has a host of iconic symbols and places and I can say without hesitation that the first one you will come across and the one you will be gravitating around constantly is Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele.

ANOTHER SIDE TO THE TEATRO MASSIMO

We hear a lot about the Hollywood stars but in this case, we are talking about a star theatre: Palermo’s Teatro Massimo. Outside of Italy, it is known to most for its appearance in the third chapter of “The Godfather” saga, so much so that I often ask tourists: “What do you know about the Teatro Massimo?” The same question and the same answer for a decade now.

Zen Positive GIF from Zen GIFs

I shrug my shoulders, role up my sleeves and start to explain the importance of this much-loved place and tell them about its beauty, history and interesting facts. Before you begin to discover it though, enjoy the story about the food block next to the Politeama Theatre, for those Post-performance hunger pangs.

THE PERFECT LOCATION FOR A MUCH-LOVED PLACE

Slap-bang in the centre, so central that it is almost impossible to avoid, even if you try. If you pass through Palermo, it is there that you will probably meet up very often without even realising it.

For us, as Palermitans, the Theatre is undoubtedly the monument we love to gaze on throughout the seasons; first and foremost, in the winter when it is decorated for the festive season for a couple of months with its thousands of little lights and the Christmas stars that light up is splendid steps.

teatro massimo natale — Photo by Rosellina Garbo and Franco Lannino

In actual fact, I have never thought of it as just something to show off, because the Teatro Massimo is the cornerstone of Palermo: a masterpiece that was not originally planned for Piazza Verde, but that I absolutely could not imagine anywhere else. Once it served to mark the divide between the old and new towns, which are now almost impossible indistinguishable. Today I would define its role almost as a “Spectacle-spectator”: a spectacle for our eyes, but one whose gaze as a silent spectator sees everything that passes before its eyes through the streets of shopping, food and wine.

MEETING AT THE MASSIMO

I immediately associate the Theatre with meeting up with friends, followed by a nice drink or an excellent dinner. And why not a stroll followed by a beer and a fried calzone (an oven-baked folded pizza) along the Via Maqueda, an age-old neighbour of our Theatre?

“Where shall we meet?” “Let’s meet up at the Massimo and we’ll decide where to go from there!”: is a typical phrase you hear genuine Palermitans say and which I believe I have uttered myself a million times in my life.

In the end it is always just an excuse to gaze on it for umpteenth time and glimpse a new detail, letting yourself be seduced by its beauty. If this is the beginning, nothing less than a wonderful evening can lie ahead. Guaranteed formula, total satisfaction or your money back!

IN SICILY, BEAUTY IS FOR SHARING

Let’s be honest: we are constantly bombarded with clichés. One such cliché is that the Sicilians are a hospitable people, who love to share “what’s theirs” and always with a smile on their faces. I’ll let you into a secret: it is no cliché. On the contrary, “adopted Palermitans” – and you can call yourself one once your first 24 hours in the city have passed – feel that our beloved theatre is an extension of themselves.

Whereas for the locals it is a place for starting out, observing and a meeting point, for travellers it is undoubtedly a landmark, used to find their way around the old town of Palermo, packed with sights. When I pass through the square, there is always someone looking up at it, admiring it enraptured, map in hand, ready to savour the other enchanting monumental wonders that surround it.

THE THEATRE AS A SYMBOL OF REBIRTH

The Teatro Massimo is much more than this: today it represents a positive icon in the collective imagination of every Sicilian, to be interpreted as an authentic emblem of rebirth: the endless renovation works in which it played a leading role from 1974, not completed until 23 years later, were the symptom of a city in turmoil, in a state of abandonment and complete neglect owing to a government devoid of morality. Its reopening in 1997 with the Berlin Philharmonic, followed by the first opera, Aida by Giuseppe Verdi, performed in April 1998, marked the end of a period of decadence for the city of Palermo and a surge of reawakened interest, desire for redemption, owing to an increasingly active and participative younger generation that has grown up on a diet of “bread and lawfulness”.

THE ORIGINS OF THE TEATRO MASSIMO

23 years to restore it, 23 years to build it: inaugurated in 1897 with Falstaff by Giuseppe Verdi, after whom it is no accident that the splendid square where it stands is named, keenly supported by the government owing to the increase in population and the need to encourage culture.

A place had to be carved out for it in its current location, leading to the demolition of various convents and monasteries of which there were many in the area, these included the Church and Convent of the Stimmate di San Francesco and the Church and Monastery of San Giuliano delle Teatine. While work was going on, the tomb was found of the last mother superior – or of the first according to some – of the Franciscan Clarist Order.

LU SPIDDU (THE SPECTRE) OF THE MASSIMO

Now… Can you imagine an opera house without its customary phantom? Not even the Teatro Massimo could dodge this fate and, as you can easily guess, here it is precisely the spirit of that soul torn from her sepulchre, “the little nun”, so called owing to her reduced height, who wanders through the theatre. Apparently, to this day, her “Spiddu” still enjoys playing tricks on those who disturb her: ensuring that anyone who does not believe in the legend trips on the first of the steps at the entrance to the theatre! It is even said that she had a part to play in the 23 years required to build it and the further 23 years to renovate it.

ARQUITECTURE

Legends and curious facts aside, we are talking about the third largest opera house in Europe in terms of size, after the Paris Opera and the Vienna State Opera, and the largest in Italy. The story of its construction is linked to two outstanding figures in the architecture world: Giovan Battista and Ernesto Basile, father and son, who succeeded in translating and importing the international language, adapting it so well to the local needs as to make seem almost “native”: I refer to that much-loved art nouveau style so common in Palermo, even though unfortunately it has been partially lost over the course of the decades, of which the two architects were great interpreters. To mention a few Villino Favaloro, the Giardino Inglese and Giardino Garibaldi, also in Palermo.

Hence to those seeing the theatre for the first time: an eclectic neoclassical building placed on a backdrop of art nouveau, already considerable owing to the two little kiosks designed by Ernesto that frame it and the large iron and copper plate dome that rests on a roller structure that provides the opportunity for “adjustments” based on the effect of changes in temperature. The entire structure seems in some way to recall the civil basilicas and churches.

EXTERIOR DETAILS

The two bronze lions that flank the Corinthian colonnade represent Opera and Tragedy, created respectively by Mario Rutelli and Benedetto Civiletti. The frieze above the colonnade is highly impressive and recites an important message, the author of which remains uncertain to this day:

“L’Arte rinnova i popoli e ne rivela la vita. Vano delle scene il diletto ove non miri a preparar l’avvenire”.

(Art renews the people and reveals their life. Amusing yourself at the theatre is in vain if it does not prompt you to reflect on the future.) There are even sculptures, such as the bust of Giuseppe Verdi, which looks out over the square, a work by Antonio Ugo. There is an elegant bistro to the right of its façade.

INTERIORS: STALLS, BOXES AND MOST IMPORTANT ROOMS

Inside, the furnishings and upholstery by Ducrot, who was also the creator of the composition of the stages and a close associate of Basile, add further style details. The horseshoe-shaped theatre with five tiers of 31 boxes, as well as the gallery, is surmounted by a wooden ceiling frescoed in petals with the triumph of music: the ceiling is equipped with a mechanism that allows it to move upwards to aid ventilation of the interior.

The centre of the second tier is dominated by the Royal Box, entire clad in mahogany, magnificent with its Murano glass chandelier. It also has a private foyer, the “Salone del Sovrano” or “Sovereign’s Hall”.

palco reale teatro massimo — The Royal Box of Teatro Massimo di Palermo, photo by Rosellina Garbo and Franco Lannino

Among the most important rooms are:

The Sala Pompeiana, famous for its incredible acoustics designed by Basile: anyone standing in the centre hears their own voice amplified, whereas any standing outside cannot make out anything that is said inside. I cannot tell you how many times I have sung inside it or asked someone else to do so! With its round layout, once reserved for noblemen, it is designed following the repetition of the number seven: Seven segments on the laylight, 14 doors and 28 decorated medallions.
On the same floor is the Sala degli Stemmi (Coat of Arms Room), so called owing to the coats of arms of several noble Sicilian families, used for chamber concerts and for corps de ballet rehearsals.
The Sala ONU (UN Room) is also well worth seeing, having gained its name after the UN Conference on Organised Crime, held there in 2000.

Now that you know all about one of the most unmissable monuments in Palermo, Teatro Massimo, you can rush to book a flight with Volotea, the people of Palermo cannot wait to meet you!