Palermo archivos - Page 3 of 4 - VOLARE MAGAZINE

We had a chat with Palermo’s emerging indie quartet I Giocattoli about their unmissable city spots, favourite food and first date walks.

“Some people listen to loud music inside their cars or on their bikes (yes, bikes!) with super-powered speakers”

They started as passionate video makers, covering already existing tracks, but their original music has earned them a big following too. 2018 will see the release of their debut EP: “Machepretendi”.

Describe where you live in ten words or less.

Culture, beauty, magic, flavours, food, history, art.

How do most people prefer to consume music in Palermo?

In Palermo, music is divided between different factions: some people listen to more or less famous bands that come to play in our historical pubs, and some people listen to loud music inside their cars or on their bikes (yes, bikes!) with super-powered speakers.

There are also some shy people who listen with earbuds while walking around the city, surrounded by unique art masterpieces.

Does living in Palermo influence the music you make?

Yes. Our city influences our music in part.

What is your favourite place to lunch when you have 10€ in your pocket?

For sure “Nni Franco U’ Vastiddaru”!

What are the top things you’d suggest to music fans visiting Palermo to go and see/do/eat/drink?

They should absolutely have a look at some of our beloved monuments. To mention just a few of them: Teatro Massimo, Teatro Politeama, Orto Botanico, The Cathedral, Oratorio di S. Cita, Chiesa S. Maria dello Spasimo and Piazza Pretoria (in English it’s called “Square of Shame”). And we must not forget our street food: Pani ca meusa, panino pannello e crocchè, stigghiola, quarume, arancine, pezzi di rosticceria. When drinking, you absolutely must try the FORST “atturrunata” beer, which you can find only in some quarters like Vucciria or Ballarò.

Do you have any favourite record stores or flea markets?

We recommend the Sunday morning market that takes place in “Piazza Marina”. You can find everything there, from vintage clothing to music, home furnishings and more.

Where would you go for a walk on a first date?

For sure on the amazing beach of Mondello.

Fancy a sweet break in Palermo? Suggestions for a couple of treats you just have to try and the many bakeries that have opened in town in the past few years.

This article is split in two, but it is dedicated wholly to lovers of sweet treats.

We’ll start by recommending two typical Sicilian desserts that are a constant feature of Palermo Sundays: cannoli and cassate.

The cannolo (cannoli is the plural form, which tourists often mistake for the actual name) is cylindrical and reminiscent of a tap spout (hence the name). Its crispy, fried flour shell contains a sheep ricotta filling flavoured with orange peel, and sometimes candied fruit. If the ricotta is not sheep’s ricotta, get up and run! They’re at their best during this time of year, because the sheep enjoy a perfect diet, which will change as the temperature rises.

The cassata is a cake shaped like an upside-down bowl, made with sponge cake, marzipan and candied fruit. You might also try the cassatelle, a mini version which is ideal for tasting. You cannot visit Palermo and leave without trying both these desserts.

Sweets lovers have seen a flurry of American and British-style bakeries pop up during recent years, offering cakes, macaroons, brownies and pancakes with maple syrup.

ANGELINA’S BAKERY
Shabby chic decor, swings (very popular) and very young patrons, millennials and lots of young women for this hang-out, which is very fashionable at this time of year. They serve a rich breakfast in the morning, with yogurt, muesli, fruit, pancakes, and coffee. Patrons vary greatly between breakfast, lunch for an aperitif and dinner. If you’re not sure what cake to go for, just ask Martina for some advice.

GRACE
Of Starbucks inspiration (they even serve their own version of Frappuccino), they have one store in the centre of town and another close to Mondello beach. They also serve muffins, cheesecakes, donuts and cupcakes.

MISS CAKE
One of the latest arrivals to the Palermo bakery scene, yet with very careful cake and furniture design. Names and recipes are personalised. A few examples? Unicorn milk, Miss cheesecake, Miss energy cake.

NERO MICIOK
Cat lovers can find a sweets and cats combo in a room filled with happy felines. Technically it is a neko cafe (the first one opened in Taiwan in 1998 and they are very popular in Japan). You can observe the cats and play with them while you sip a cup of something and eat a dessert.

RABBIT HOLE
Our last mention is clearly inspired by Alice in Wonderland. It is a themed cafe that revolves around tea a lot, as one would naturally assume if they’ve seen the movie. You might come across some cosplayers, and the cafe management itself often goes off to take part in events with people who like to dress up.

Musicians or passionate enthusiasts have many options for listening to classical, live or dance music in Palermo.

FABBRICA 102

One of the few bistros in Palermo offering original live music is located near the port and historic centre. You can choose from a restaurant, tea room or bar. Mostly indie groups play here, but you can find a little bit of everything. Much frequented by students, but also by music enthusiasts of all ages. I suggest trying one of the more than 90 cocktail possibilities dedicated to Hemingway, all based on rum of course!

CANDELAI

A classic of classics for people from Palermo since 1995, but also for Sicilians coming from the provinces for concerts and DJ sets of house and electronic music, including some memorable ones during their history (Elliot Sharp, Alvin Curran, Tom Verlaine, Irio de Paola, Ravi Coltrane, Ralph Towner, Jonathan Ritchman, Paolo Frusu, Ianos Asur, Giovanni Sollima, Bandabardò,, Radiodervish, Luca Madonia, Daniele Sepe, Vinicio Capossela, Mario Venuti, Claudio Coccoluto, Shantell, Calcutta, Cosmo …). The restaurant has remained almost unchanged since the 1950s and has a marble and plaster vintage charm. In addition to its guest programming, a selection of bands plays for national events.

RAI AUDITORIUM

The regional headquarters of Italian state television has a small and very intimate auditorium with extremely rich programming overseen by the journalist Salvatore Cusimano. It’s located on Avenue Strasbourg in the Stadium area, and is easily reachable from the centre with the 101 bus. There are often jazz and piano concerts. There are also book presentations, theatre and cultural events.

BOLAZZI

In the centre of Palermo, on the piazzetta Bagnasco, which is now one of the places for having an aperitif. It has a suggestive decor that brings together a mixture of festival lights of the Sicilian saints with reused antique furniture from the last century. You can listen to live rock and indie music, including occasional surprise concerts (I saw Niccolò Fabi playing acoustically with very short notice on a normal evening). The cocktail man, like Mr. Bolazzi, has a gruff appearance, but it’s just a first impression. They will do everything to help you spend an evening far from your cares. 🙂

THE BELLINI CONSERVATORY

2018 is precisely the year to learn more about one of the oldest conservatories in Italy. It’s been 400 years since the conservatory’s foundation and it has a rich programme of concerts (not too “classical” and with an aperitif). In addition to institutional events, my suggestion is to sneak into the place pretending to be a student in order to listen to the orchestra rehearsals. It’s a really spectacular show because the musicians go over the music several times. That way, you appreciate the improvements and talent and concentration in the space as well as the suggestions offered by the expert music teachers.

The Mondello or Altavilla Milicia beaches are easy choices, but where do the people from Palermo go (and tourists usually don’t)?

LE PIATTAFORME ALL’ADDAURA (THE PLATFORMS AT ADDAURA) You can get to Mondello through Favorita Park but also by a coastal road that goes behind Montepellegrino. Many Palermitans enjoy access to the sea here, staying either on the rocks or on the platforms that get built for the summer, complete with all beach facilities. The area was already a settlement in the Palaeolithic era and there are some caves, which unfortunately cannot be visited. Many platforms act as nightclubs in the evening, and there you can drink, dance and make new friends.

CALA ROSSA A TERRASINI (TERRASINI RED COVE) This beach is thirty kilometres from Palermo, beyond the airport (you can see it on the west side as you land). The name refers to its red cliff, streaked with white, and you can swim between the crags. It is not uncommon to spot rare or migratory birds that frequent the area and the Cape Rama natural reserve. You can walk here after a rocky climb (the Praiola). I’ll be bringing some fruit and fresh water with me, the area is wild and there are no refreshments!

LA BAIA DEL CORALLO A SFERRACAVALLO (CORAL BAY IN SFERRACAVALLO) A rocky beach, with a concrete platform and easy access to the sea set within a crystal-clear gulf. It lies a short distance from the city, which can be reached with bus 628. Get off at the Hotel Bellevue stop and follow the path down to the sea. You’ll also walk by a very interesting installation with large aerials. For lunch or dinner, there are several fixed-price fish restaurants. You can also walk to Mondello along the footpath that goes through the so-called Avamposto [Outpost], just ask one of the fishermen of the port neighbourhood to show you the way through the pine forest and more rocks.

LA SPIAGGIA DI CAPACI E L’ISOLA DELLE FEMMINE (CAPACI BEACH AND THE ISLAND OF THE WOMEN) I know this stretch of beach very well and have been going to it since I was a child: it is still in my heart! You can see planes about to land in Punta Raisi and the beautiful islet that gives the name to the village, the Island of the Women, where legend has it some Turkish girls were cast out to and is now a natural reserve. Many go biking or running along the waterfront. There are a few lookout towers that communicated with each other through fires, to guard against the pirates who used to come to land for raids in antiquity.

I FRANCESI A MONGERBINO (THE FRENCH IN MONGERBINO) The name of this beach is peculiar and might stem from the fact that, many years ago, French tourists knew it well and preferred it to others, but nowadays they are nowhere to be found! You can access it walking down a lane along a private road, through typical local vegetation and prickly pears. Before leaving, you really must visit the Arco Azzurro [Blue Arch], a stone archway recently made famous by a chocolate advertisement, and newly reopened to visitors.

The food and wine alone are excellent reasons to visit Sicily and Palermo. There are a huge number of local bars and restaurants that allow you to sample different colours, scents and flavours without committing to a single choice, with an ever-changing range of options.

CHEESES AND DELICACIES AT LA DROGHERIA DEL BUON GUSTO
By day it is a deli in Via Nicolò Garzilli, running parallel to Via Libertà in the city centre, but from a certain time onward you can taste special boards with a variety of exceptional salami and cheese, cleverly paired and presented with elegance and originality. Stick with a Sicilian theme by trying cheeses such as Cosacavaddu ibleo, Pecorino, Piacentino ennese, Tuma persa, Vastedda della Valle del Belice and Maiorchino, and not to mention Ricotta salata, paired with Nebrodi black pork, Sausage, Fellata and other delicacies. I always ask Toti Ballotta, our host, for an expert explanation of what we are eating.

WINE TASTING FROM VINO VERITAS
In Via Sammartino, in one of the wine shops, you can immerse yourself in native Sicilian wines. These include red wine varieties like the famous Nero d’Avola (which I find a little overpriced), Nerello Mascalese and Cappuccio, and Cerasuolo di Vittoria, all worth sampling, while the once-celebrated Perricone is also returning to fashion. In the summer, whites such as Grillo, Catarratto, Carricante, Damaschino, Grecanico and Inzolia make for a refreshing evening, while Malvasia and Zibibbo are a perfect conclusion to a meal. They are worth savouring, so there is no need to overindulge. 🙂

LOCAL SWEETS FROM I PECCATUCCI DI MAMMA ANDREA
There is more than just Cannoli and Cassata to be discovered in Via Principe di Scordia, where you can sample citrus marmalades, fruit covered with dark chocolate, preserves and biscuits. I recommend the Peccatucci: soft almond-based pralines, crowned with pistachio or coconut, or chocolate covered with cane sugar or hazelnuts. A match for Central European pastries any day!

ICE CREAM FROM LA KALA
One of the ways to survive a Scirocco day, when the hot wind blows from Africa, is artisan ice cream. Near La Cala, a bay filled with beautiful boats, there are three ways to eat ice cream: in a cup (with various sizes), in a classic cone, and in a filled brioche, the soft and fragrant choice. La Kala won a prize for their fig and nut flavour. A description would not do it justice.

OCTOPUS FROM CALOGERO
If you think you can eat an octopus after you have seen it moving (they are typically fresh) Calogero in Mondello, Palermo’s seaside district, is the stop for you. Palermitans eat it as a starter, and it can even be considered street food, since you can eat it standing up before heading back to the beach. The octopus is poached and served hot with lemon juice.

Palermo has a thousand-year-old history, often captured in its libraries. If you decide to spend a period of study or complete an academic thesis there, you can take advantage of its many cultural centres where you will come in contact with people interested in learning.

THE NATIONAL LIBRARY
On Corso Vittorio Emanuele in the city centre, this library has now reopened after a long period of closure. It houses more than a million books, manuscripts, and incunabula, the earliest type of printed texts. The oldest text dates from the 10th century. It also maintains all the publications produced in the Sicilian region. This beautiful sixteenth-century centre was the High College of the “Compagnia di Gesù” as well as a centre of learning. Among the treasures there you can consult Latin bibles, missals, monastic documents, antique parchment maps of the Mediterranean, the Encyclopédie of Diderot, and the documents from its Jewish, Islamic and Chinese sections. Many college students who live in the historic centre go there to study its texts, stopping to take a break on the balcony. I studied some difficult subjects there during my university career. It’s a place that helps you concentrate and able to give your all.

THE STATE ARCHIVE
This has two locations: “La Catena” (the former convent of the Teatini, where a large iron chain or “catena” was kept which in ancient times was meant to block access to the city by ships that came from the sea –and very close to this spot) and “La Gancia” (the former convent of Santa Maria degli Angeli which has a beautiful cloister accessible to scholars). The State keeps the surviving records of the central offices of Sicily’s former rulers including the Kingdom of Sicily, the Normans, Swabians, Angevins, Aragonese, the Spanish Viceroys from 1412, and the lieutenancy of the Kingdom of the two Sicilies from 1816. Many documents come from the archives of notable people and their families. They allow reconstructing the stories of noble and religious figures as well as the history of the lands and cities of Sicily from the middle ages to the 20th century. Those who have ancestors from Sicily and want to construct their family tree must make a stop here.

THE MUNICIPAL LIBRARY
This s a former Jesuit monastery not far from the Town Hall. Publishers from Palermo submit a copy of all their published texts here. The entrance on Piazza Brunaccini, where you’ll find a reconstructed neo-gothic colonnade of a Greek temple, is worth a photograph. A comprehensive restoration of the building was carried out in recent years. Here, you can see the “Codice Resta” or graphic collection recently recovered by the National Graphics Institute, which represents a real “portable gallery” for art lovers.

VILLA TRABIA
On the ground floor of the Casena di Villa Trabia alle Terre Rosse, located inside a beautiful park of about 60 thousand square metres, there is a library managed by the Municipality of Palermo. Here too, you’ll find many students strolling through the garden to take a break and get off the Internet.

MODUSVIVENDI
This is not a library but a bookstore which often hosts book presentations, debates and Sunday morning literary breakfasts. Fabrizio, the owner, is an “old-school” bookseller who started doing this job by chance. In addition to asking him about his story, he is also able to find authors and titles even with very little clues. The informal character of this bookstore keeps it going and makes it well-loved.

For several years, examples of impressive street art have been springing up on the streets of Palermo. They aren’t just by local artists, there are also some pieces by international artists who have passed through the city. Let’s look at the areas of the city to see what’s happening, as a starting point for discovering these colorful murals and seeking inspiration.

VUCCIRIA
In recent years the historical market has been more lively by night than by day, being a nightlife hub for students and those in search of street food (such as “pane c’a meusa” [bread with spleen] and boiled octopus) and late night raves into the early hours. Much of the street art is by the Austrian artist Uwe Jäntsch, who lives here and is engaged to the heiress of the Lanza di Scalea family, a very important noble family. Uwe began creating works of art on Piazza Garraffello, where there’s a beautiful sixteenth century fountain. The white walls of the Palazzo Lo Mazzarino are interrupted by a red cross and the words “Uwe ti ama” (“Uwe loves you”). But there are many more, from the works of C215 (one is a portrait of Al Pacino) and the “black” heart of Axel Void, to the mix of Mexico and worry by Tilf and Ema Jons and the puppets of Astro Naut and Bibbito (in Piazza Tarzanà), along with Julieta XLF.

BORGO VECCHIO
This is a popular area close to the port, where a wonderful social advancement project by the not-for-profit organizations PUSH. and “Per Esempio Onlus”, in collaboration with the street artist Ema Jons, has put the drawings of local children on the walls in the form of graffiti. Mythical creatures and other characters have taken over ancient and newer houses, thanks to money collected from a crowdfunding project. In addition to whales, cats, dogs, mice, reindeer, pigs, octopuses, wolves, cottages, trees and clouds by Ema Jons, there are other contributions such as NemO’s face, Bloom’s woman, the extremely colorful works of Aris and Alleg’s big football. The parking lot of the Ibis Styles hotel is also not to be missed, with the works of Mrfijodor, Corn79, Hunto, Rosk, DMS, Zed1 and Mr. Thoms. Better to visit in the daytime.

MAGIONE/KALSA
In this area there are several murals that date back many years like the enormous and evocative sleeping Pope Sergius I by Sten † Lex on a wall in Piazza Magione. In the rest of the Kalsa area and in Via Alloro you can find many other interesting works by Cyop&Kaf and Lucamaleonte.

CANTIERI CULTURALI ALLA ZISA
This area was used in the last century for industrial purposes. The 23 warehouses were the site of the Ducrot workshops. Today there are occasional cultural activities here, but it could be put to better use. Of particular note are the two men with bare torsos by Rosk and Mirko Loste in collaboration with Javier García Herrero, the revisiting of fairy tales by the Mangiatori di Patate, the depiction of the 80s with its popsicles and telephone directories by Flavio Favelli and a big white skull with geometric patterns by the well-known local tattooist Zingales.

There are many other interesting spots in popular areas like the Mercato di Ballarò but also in the university campus, in the alleys between the Cala and Piazza Marina, and even in troublesome areas such as Brancaccio and lo Zen. For more information follow Street Art Palermo on social media. Here is a complete map of the locations.

Make friends with the people of Palermo (they are generally very friendly) and go discover the city with them!

At a stone’s throw from the Teatro Politeama in the centre of Palermo, a wide range of places have been open for a few months now, where you can taste something a bit different from Sicilian cuisine. If you’re spending a little extra time in the city or want to try something new, there’s the “food block”: this area of town between via Libertà, via Isidoro La Lumia, via Archimede and piazza Ruggero Settimo is packed with places to eat.

During my travels, I learnt a simple yet effective rule: if there’s a “tourist trapper” standing in front of the restaurant, trying to get people to sit down, it means the restaurant is touristy. Sometimes the food is good, but with mid-high prices and recipes often tailored to international tastes. I don’t discourage this type of experience, but I would like to talk about the variety of choice that has been on offer in the centre of Palermo for some time now, including some unique quirks.

Let’s start with La Pesceria, at the corner between via Isidoro La Lumia and via Quintino Sella. This place is a cross between a fishmonger’s and a restaurant, made possible thanks to the passion of Lollo Cracolici and his family. Lollo wanted to share his catch with his friends and others and so he opened this place where there is no set menu: whatever is caught is served to guests who eat at tables on the pavement, taking advantage of Palermo‘s mild climate all year round. The fish is fresh and delicious. I recently ate a pasta dish with tuna and clam botargo, which I won’t be forgetting any time soon.

Nearby, in via La Lumia no. 15/17, there’s Zangaloro Meat Factory. The Zangaloro family are historical butchers from Palermo who have recently created a fast food style restaurant with local produce. The restaurant’s interiors are reminiscent of a butcher shop, with white tiles on the walls and wooden tables. Here you can eat the delicious burgers that have been all the rage in Milan for some years now, but with a local touch, made from meat and chicken. You can also opt for the Angus burger. The most traditional one is the double Zangaburger made from Italian beef, with cheddar cheese, tomato, cucumber, red onion and barbecue sauce. The chips are hand-cut – a far cry from American-style fast food fries. They also serve grilled dishes and salads. I’ve personally found that it is better not to go during peak hours as there is sometimes a long wait.

Also on via La Lumia no. 11/A, you’ll find Se Magna, baking pizza squares with a variety of toppings, cut in the traditional Roman style and sold by weight. There are many Roman-style pizza places in the city and since this one opened in April, it has already built up various regulars. At lunch time, you’ll find people who work in the nearby offices coming to eat and enjoy a chat. I tried the pizza with pistachio ricotta, aubergine and bacon, but you can taste various specialities such as prawns and orange, potato and truffle and – for the most indulgent – pizza with Nutella.

Nearby, in via Quintino Sella no. 65, you can taste Roman cuisine in Caligula. In Rome, I regularly ate pumpkin flower, “Cacio e pepe e Gricia” and I have often since found myself with an insatiable craving for Roman food. This gap has been filled for some years now thank to this restaurant with a pleasant atmosphere and walls that vaguely recall the Domus. Don’t forget to take a look at the menu of the day, which often has delicious surprises in store, such as the “Salciccia e Cicoria” (Sausage and Chicory).

So Palermo isn’t just about “arancini” fried rice balls and pasta with sardines… but actually, there something for everyone!

Palermo, seen from above, offers a vantage point from which to best admire its many aesthetic possibilities and makes for a breathtaking show. Besides seeing it from an airplane while landing at the airport between the Tyrrhenian Sea and Longa Mountain, there are many high up observation points to see the city from. They offer wide and suggestive views, sometimes after only a little climb. Others require scrambling up the hills surrounding the area known as the “Conca d’Oro” or “Golden Valley.”

Monte Pellegrino
Located on the most beautiful promontory in the world – according to Goethe – Utveggio Castle sits in all its majesty, facing the gulf in front of the city. The Castle is a Liberty Style structure, built between the 1920s and 1930s at the wish of a gentleman, Michele Utveggio, who wanted to make it into a luxury hotel that would offer its guests a privileged view of the city. His hopes were not disappointed. The panoramic terrace in gardens of the Castle is now an exclusive point from which to admire the city in all its eminence and beauty.

Still on Monte Pellegrino, going up even higher, bend after bend, you finally get to Belvedere. Here you find the noteworthy statue of the patron saint of Palermo, Saint Rosalia. She stands on a little elevation, from which you can catch a glimpse of the entire coast. After all, she needs a wide view to protect the city and its inhabitants. It’s one of my favourite places, a quiet and relaxing one. There, the sky and the sea blend together, just like the horizon in the distance.

Monreale
Five kilometres away in the distance, on a promontory south of Palermo, the municipality of Monreale rises up. Today, it’s the seat of the archbishop as well as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In the main piazza, the marvelous “Duomo” or cathedral stands out. Built in the second half of the 1100s for William the Second, it’s undoubtedly worth having a look at. Entering through the bronze doors of the main entrance, you are dazzled by the golden mosaics and blessed by the Christ Pantocrator figure depicted in the central apse. A visit to the cathedral also includes a walk to the upper levels, from which you can enjoy a panoramic view of the entire city.If you want a preview, you can have a look at the online webcam from there which transmits live images.

The roofs of Cassaro
Whoever comes to Palermo has to be charmed by its marketplaces. One of the most important is surely Ballarò, located in the district of the “Palazzo Reale” (Royal Palace) or Albergaria (Albergheria). While walking amid the street stalls, listening to the “abbaniata” or the cries of their sellers, or sampling one of the local delicacies, you can’t help but notice the 13th century tower alongside the church of San Nicolò of Bari, also known as San Nicolò of the Albergheria. The tower was built by the municipality of Palermo during that time to defend the wall of Cassaro, a strategic point facing the sea. The sea is much further away today, but you only have to just go up to the top of the tower and you will not be disappointed. It’s worth trying out one of the evening visits frequently organized by the Terradamare touristic cooperative.

While still in the Albergheria neighborhood, another 360° panoramic viewpoint from which to admire the city is from the Church of the “Santissimo Salvatore (SS)” or the Church of the Holy Saviour along Vittorio Emanuele Street. The gem of this church is certainly its dome, whose terrace opened to the public in 2014 (now open every day, except Tuesday, from 10:00 to 18:00).As the oldest street in Rome, the Cassaro brings together the most important buildings in the city. One that stands out, for its beauty and history, is the cathedral of Palermo. In July 2015, this became a UNESCO World Heritage Site and part of the Arab-Norman tour of Palermo, Cefalù, and Monreale. A few years ago, it reopened its roof area to public. The first time I went up in the evening, I was enchanted not only by the view, but also by the tiled roofs and their juxtaposition of diverse styles built up over the centuries. Placing a hand on the sturdy walls of the church, you can almost feel its 1000-year history.

La Rinascente
Moving in the direction of Rome, in Piazza San Domenico near Vucciria (another historic marketplace), you find La Rinascente department store. The building that welcomes you today was purposefully restored during a project by the well-known architect and designer, Flavio Albanese. He turned a crumbling period structure into an innovative and elegant department store. After a little shopping, you can eat or drink something in the food hall, with its splendid panoramic terrace that unites both a viewing and dining experience. The piazza and church you see are among the most photographed in the city, with good reason.

Teatro Massimo
“Teatro Massimo,” or the Massimo opera house in Piazza Verdi, is the third largest in Europe after the National Opera of Paris and the State Opera of Vienna. Closed for a long period during its recent history, it is now appreciated for its architectural value and programme of performances. You can add a visit to the opera house roof to the guided tour of the inside, but only upon reservation.

Palermo is best known for the wonderful sunny days tourists almost always find there. Still, it’s not unusual to have as much as a whole week of rain in Palermo during the winter or spring. What can you do in Palermo when it rains?

If the rain’s not too heavy, a walk through the alleys and streets of the historic centre is a must. Walking along Via Maqueda, you can go from the Teatro Massimo to Piazza Quattro Canti. Eventually, you’ll meet up with Piazza Pretoria and Piazza Bellini. You can get lost inside the Vucciria Market or explore the narrow streets around Piazza Marina and Via Alloro. With wet cobblestones and streets, Palermo holds a unique kind of charm.

Normally a rainy day offers time to relax, sip a hot drink and enjoy some home-made sweets. When I feel like doing this, I go with a friend to the Cioccolateria Lorenzo at 7 Via IV Aprile. There we relax and have tea (regular or herbal) and cake. Something you must try there is the cheesecake (which is every bit as good as the American version!).

Of course, you might want to eat something more substantial. For a while now, there’s been a hamburger craze in this part of the city. My favourite hamburger place at the moment is FUD (at 4 Piazza Olivella near the Teatro Massimo). They have fast service and a wide selection of burgers (including vegetarian ones) which are made with certified Sicilian ingredients. Want to try one of their specialities? Have the “panel bred” (made with “panelle” or chickpea flour) or “mortadella d’asino di Chiaramonte Gulfi” (a local salami). It is a very popular place, so a reservation is recommended if you want to get your own table.

Cold, dreary days are also a good excuse to feed any cravings you might have for art or culture. So why not spend a rainy day in a museum or gallery? There’s a wide choice in Palermo. Even if you have some time on your hands because of the rain, you may still want to pick a few to focus on. Palazzo Abatellis might be one of them. The Palazzo is in the Kalsa area of Palermo on Via Alloro. It houses the Galeria Regionale (the Regional Gallery) with its medieval, modern and archaeological collections. I could lose myself for hours contemplating the “Annunziata” (The Annunciation) by Antonello da Messina or the majestic yet macabre beauty of the “Trionfo della Morte” (The Triumph of Death) fresco.

On the other hand, if I feel like seeing contemporary art, there’s GAM or the Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Palermo (The Palermo Gallery of Modern Art) on Via Sant’Anna. This would be my alternate choice. Among the numerous artists whose works you’ll find there are Giorgio De Chirico, Pippo Rizzo and Renato Guttuso. The museum also frequently hosts interesting temporary exhibitions alongside its permanent collection.

Palermo also offers many kinds of inside entertainment. One of my favourites is going to the theatre. During the winter and into the spring, the Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele offers weekly concerts and classical operas or ballets featuring well-known companies. Performances there often have a modern twist and striking scenery. One of the great proponents of Art Nouveau, Giovanni Battista Filippo Basile, began to build the theatre in 1875 and it was completed by his son Ernesto in 1891. It’s one of the most prestigious and beautiful in the world and the third largest in Europe after the Opéra National de Paris and the Vienna State Opera. The theatre’s gilt interior and frescoed ceiling (which hides a sophisticated ventilation system) offer a show before the show. The building’s architecture alone is enough to dazzle and delight audiences.

If you feel like something more informal in the evening, you can start off with an aperitif in the centre. Afterwards, you can choose from a number of nearby bistros which often feature indie music groups or other good alternatives during the week. Bolazzi (in Piazzetta Bagnasco) and Fabbrica 102 are the most lively bistros in this regard.