Destination: Naples

If you are planning a holiday in Naples in September, I recommend that you do not miss the Feast of San Gennaro, the city’s patron saint, which is celebrated every year on 19 September in the entire historic centre.

This celebration is a moment of great importance for the Neapolitans, as it is said that the fate of the city depends on the outcome of the liquefaction of blood, and attracts visitors from all over the world.

This a unique opportunity to plunge into Naples’ culture and traditions. In addition to its religious significance, the event offers the opportunity to explore the city, taste its world-famous cuisine and experience moments of genuine devotion.

The Meaning of the Feast of San Gennaro

The Feast of St. Gennaro is dedicated to the patron saint of Naples, Saint Januarius, a third-century bishop. Legend has it that the saint’s blood, preserved in two vials, miraculously liquefies during the festival. This event is considered a sign of protection and blessing for the city and its inhabitants.

If the blood of San Gennaro does not liquefy during the Feast, it can cause some concern and anxiety among the faithful present. Traditionally, the liquefaction of San Gennaro’s blood is considered a positive omen and a sign of protection for the city of Naples. When the miracle does not occur, some people may interpret it as a possible omen of misfortune or future difficulties.

However, it is important to stress that the event of blood liquefaction is considered a miracle and cannot be predicted or guaranteed. There have been cases in history where blood did not liquefy during the Feast of San Gennaro, and yet there were no negative consequences for the city or its inhabitants.

Religious and devout people interpret the phenomenon in different ways. Some believe there may be spiritual or divine reasons behind the non-liquefaction, such as a call for more faith or a warning to improve spiritual and moral standards. Others see the failure to liquefy as a natural occurrence, giving scientific or physical explanations for the phenomenon.

However, the blood’s failure to liquefy does not affect the importance and relevance of the Feast of San Gennaro for the city of Naples. The feast continues to have a deep meaning for Neapolitans, who come together to celebrate their patron saint and keep alive the tradition and devotion that connects them to San Gennaro.

The stages of the festival

The Feast of San Gennaro begins with a solemn procession through the streets of Naples. The silver bust of the saint, carried on the shoulders of the faithful, is accompanied by religious and civil representatives in an atmosphere of devotion and joy. During the procession, which goes through the city’s oldest quarters, one can admire spectacular examples of sacred art and traditional folklore.

The climax of the feast takes place in the Chapel of the Treasure of San Gennaro, inside the Cathedral of Naples. Here, the two vials containing the saint’s blood are exposed to the public, awaiting the miracle of liquefaction. The faithful anxiously await the event, while a priest chants prayers and hymns.

An interview with a Neapolitan expert

To find out more about this event, we asked Raffaele de Lucia, editor of Napoli Village, a Naples online newspaper, who has taken part in the festival every year for several years now.

A. Raffaele, would you summarise in a few words what the story of San Gennaro is?

R. It must first be said that his real name was not Gennaro, but most probably Proculus or Publius Faustus Januarius. Gennaro was only his surname. Specifically, Saint Gennaro was a martyr, i.e. a man who died because he refused to recant his Christian faith. The cult around him has been spreading since the 5th century AD.

A. What is the explanation for your miracle?

R. It is wrong to speak of a miracle, because what happens in the Neapolitan city is defined as a prodigy. A miracle can only come from God, while a prodigy can be divine in nature, angelic in nature, or be caused by a prodigious saint – in this case the patron saint of the city of Naples. Even the Church does not officially recognise it as a miracle, but considers it scientifically inexplicable and approves its veneration by the people.

A. Can you tell us some less-known facts about San Gennaro?

R. There are many curious facts about the patron saint, from his name to his actual place of birth. But both Neapolitans and tourists are always astonished when they visit the Museum of the Treasure of San Gennaro located in Via Duomo in Naples. Inside, there are several objects that belonged to the Saint. One of them is his crown, but also a red horn, a typical Neapolitan figure. It is said that when San Gennaro was beheaded at Pozzuoli, his thumb was amputated. And from that’s how the Neapolitan cornetto, now known as a lucky charm throughout the world, was created.

A. When and how does the feast of San Gennaro take place?

R. There are three prodigies associated with San Gennaro: in May, on the first Saturday of the month; on 19 September, the day of the city’s patron saint, when the city of Naples dresses up and the faithful actively and joyfully participate in the liquefaction; and finally, on 16 December, because back in 1631, during the eruption of Vesuvius, the Saint’s half-bust was transported below the lava to make it stop, and this date has also been celebrated since then, with the prodigy repeating itself year after year.

A. Tell us about the relationship the city of Naples has with its patron saint

R. Neapolitans have a special relationship with the Saint. They see him as the protector of the city, since he saved it from plagues and eruptions.  

A. Do you have any advice for those who want to attend the festival?

R. I strongly advise everyone to come and attend the festival and the celebration of the prodigy. It is a moment of great faith and emotion. It is worth visiting Naples on the feast of 19 September, but not only then, because Naples has so much to give and to discover.

We thank Raffaele for his help.

Practical tips for enjoying the festival:

• Plan ahead: the Feast of San Gennaro attracts a large number of visitors, so it is advisable to plan your trip in advance. Book flights and accommodation at least one month in advance to guarantee availability.

• Explore Naples: take advantage of your visit to discover the beauty and history of Naples. Visit the historic centre, a UNESCO world heritage site, enjoy the famous Neapolitan pizza, and admire the city’s fascinating artistic and architectural treasures.

• Attend high mass: attend high mass in the Cathedral of Naples, during which the vials containing the blood of San Gennaro are displayed. This moment is charged with meaning and spirituality.
• Take part in the procession: join the procession from Naples Cathedral to experience the unique atmosphere of the festival. Wear comfortable clothing and respect local traditions.

Where to Sleep in Naples

Naples offers a wide range of accommodation options to suit all needs. If you want to fully immerse yourself in the festive atmosphere, I recommend looking for accommodation near the historic centre or in the Spanish quarter, which are full of bed and breakfasts and family-run and non-family-run boutique hotels.

This way you will be right in the centre, with the main monuments just a few metres away, and you can visit the city on foot. If, on the other hand, you are looking for more upmarket hotels, go to the seafront and you will find elegant hotels, boutique hotels and even cheaper options such as bed and breakfasts and flats for rent.

And if you want to visit other beautiful places in Campania in addition to Naples, read my articles on the Amalfi Coast, the archaeological sites at Pompeii, and the sea around Naples.

If you’re staying in Naples, a trip to Pompeii is an absolute must. This archaeological site is truly unique and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997.

Pompeii is the only remaining tangible sign of what life was like for the ancient Romans just before the violent volcanic eruption in 79 AD destroyed the cities of Pompeii, Herculaneum, Stabiae and Oplontis.

The discoveries made during the excavations instigated by Charles III of Spain provide some of the finest indications of life in Roman times and Pompeii is the best preserved city of that era; most of the finds (including frescoes, mosaics and statues, as well as simple everyday artefacts), are now held in the National Archaeological Museum in Naples, with a smaller number in the Antiquarium of Pompeii.

Visiting the archaeological site of Pompeii is like stepping back in time, as the city itself became frozen in time on that day of the famous eruption in 79 AD, when ash and lava rained down from the sky and enveloped everything below: homes, inhabitants, roads, public buildings and objects from everyday life. It was as if everything were captured in a terrible snapshot that has survived to this day for us to see.

Visitor information

The ruins of Pompeii are open all year round and you can either simply purchase an entry ticket or opt for a guided tour with a private guide or a group tour.

The ancient city covers an area of around 66 hectares, whilst the excavated area covers around 44 hectares, where approximately 1,500 buildings were discovered, including domus (Roman villas) and monuments.

There are three entrances to the site:

• The Porta Marina entrance, near the train station on the Circumvesuviana rail network.
• The Piazza Esedra entrance, coinciding with the motorway exit.
• The Piazza Anfiteatro entrance, towards the modern town.

I would highly recommend taking a guided tour of the site as your guide will be able to explain all about the ruins in amazing detail.

What to see in Pompeii

The Roman Amphitheatre

The first recommended stop is the Roman Amphitheatre, situated right opposite the Piazza Anfiteatro entrance and 100 years older than the Coliseum. It was built around 70 BC by the duumvirs, or magistrates, Q. Valgus and M. Porcius, and is one of the oldest and best preserved amphitheatres in the world. It could hold over 20,000 spectators. Originally clad in marble, due to its size it was the first building to be plundered once the ruins had been discovered.

Plays and other public performances are still staged there today, mainly on summer evenings.

The Garden of the Fugitives

The Garden of the Fugitives was originally an old quarter of the ancient city of Pompeii, which was then converted into a vineyard in the years prior to the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD. Its current name relates to the discovery of the bodies of 13 victims, who were apparently trying to escape to the Nocera Gate before they were encased in ash and lava, as can be seen in the casts created using the technique of pouring liquid plaster into the cavities.

The House of Octavius Quartio

Of all the Roman villas that you can visit in Pompeii, I have to mention the House of Octavius Quartio, which is a “miniature version” of the large villas of the aristocracy that were spread throughout the countryside outside of the city,and where you’ll find the frescoes of the Myth of Narcissus and Suicide of Pyramus and Thisbe.

The House of Venus in the Shell

Another domus worth visiting is the House of Venus in the Shell. Damaged by one of the bombs that fell on Pompeii in 1943 and excavated in 1952, this house appears to be built on the site of an earlier one, extending the peristyle and triclinium and changing the layout of the rooms, almost all arranged around the garden.

The house is famous for the scenes depicted on its south wall: a garden bursting with plants and copious fauna, with low latticework and other decorative features on three panels.

The Roman Forum

The spectacular Roman Forum, which makes any visit to Pompeii all the more enthralling, is of course unmissable. From here you can see Mount Vesuvius, majestically looking down on Pompeii, with its somewhat ominous air that allows you to imagine how the city felt before the eruption.

The Forum stands at the intersection of the main axes of the original urban hub and was the city’s main square, with no access permitted to carts or chariots: around it stood religious, political and financial buildings. From the 1^st century AD, the Forum was used for celebratory events and was therefore surrounded by statues: on the south side stood the honorary statues, in front of the urban administrative buildings, whilst those of illustrious citizens could be found along the porticos. Only their bases can be seen today; the sculptures have not been found and may have been removed by inhabitants of Pompeii who returned after the eruption to take anything that they were able to recover. In the middle of the west side stands a rostrum.

The Thermal Baths of Pompeii

As in all Roman cities, Pompeii also had its thermal baths. The Forum’s “thermae”, also called the Fortune Baths or Stabian Baths, are a Roman thermal complex designed for the wealthiest members of society. The baths, a favourite Roman pastime, are divided into two sections: one for men and the other for women, with separate entrances. Each contained a series of rooms with different functions: the apodyterium, frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium.

The Lupanar

The Lupanar is one of the most famous and characteristic places on the entire archaeological site, even though it’s located on the periphery. This was the city’s ancient brothel, distributed over two floors with five small rooms on the ground floor and five above. Each room contains a stone bed on which matting or mattresses would be laid. At the entrances to each alcove are different paintings with erotic themes, probably depicting the type of service offered by the prostitute residing there.

The Villa of the Mysteries

Finally, make sure you visit the Villa of the Mysteries, one of the most mysterious and intriguing domus in Pompeii, dating back to the 1^st century BC. The villa probably belonged to the Istacidii family, one of the most powerful in the city during the Augustan Age.

How to get to Pompeii

The Ruins of Pompeii are a few kilometres outside of Naples on the road leading to Sorrento, in the current town of Pompei, rebuilt right alongside the ancient city.

You can get there on the Circumvesuviana rail network, from the Napoli Piazza Garibaldi station, travelling towards Sorrento and getting off at the “Pompei Scavi” stop, or by private transfer or car from Naples, taking the motorway towards Salerno and exiting at Pompei centro.

If you’re planning to visit Naples, I would make sure you keep at least one day spare for Pompeii, which you can visit on a day trip from the city. Then don’t miss out on a visit to the fascinating Underground Naples in the city’s Old Town, steeped in myths and legends that will take your breath away!

Thinking of visiting Napoli soon? We’d love to be your DJs for the trip! We’ve created a Napoli playlist just for the occasion, and you’ll get a little taste of what’s to come below. Local artists only!

To learn more about this beautiful city, we got in touch with the members of Nu Genea, the duo formed by Massimo Di Lena and Lucio Aquilina. As they are locals, we’ve asked them a few questions about what they think of your next destination and if they have any recommendations.

Hello Massimo and Lucio, how are you? Thank you for answering a few questions for us.

All good, thanks! We’re so excited since our new album Bar Mediterraneo is out !!!  And we can’t wait to start touring again 🙂

How would you introduce Nu Genea to Volotea passengers who might not know you?

We’re two musicians and djs, strongly rooted to our own culture from Napoli but always keen in connecting different people and exploring new music boundaries. 
We love to research music from the past, some people call us “crate diggers”, and we ride through dusty basements all over the world to discover forgotten music gems on vinyl format. Neapolitan is the language we use for most of our songs, and we blend it with funk, soul and disco music from the 70s and 80s. 

We were really excited to hear that you were going to release your new album after four years. How was the creation of this new album? What has been going on for you the last few years?

After our last LP Nuova Napoli, which was a proper focus on our hometown, we felt like we wanted to expand the radius: Napoli’s culture, music and dialect have been strongly shaped by other Mediterranean people and we tried to show this encounter through our music, collaborating for example, with a Tunisian artist called Marzouk Mejri and the French singer Célia Kameni.
Moreover, also going around and digging records from North Africa, Spain, France and of course from our hometown Napoli, played an important role in the inspirational part of the composition process of the album. 

Since we watched the documentary you’re involved in, Napoli Futura, we’ve been eager to hear your personal recommendations of Naples. Could you name your top 3 restaurants and your top 3 bars?

We usually prefer to eat in modest yet amazing “trattorie” located in the historic city center: Gnocchi alla Sorrentina at Lo spiedo d’oro and Polpette at Osteria della Mattonella worth a mention. But we also recommend a stop over Sud ristorante, where chef Marianna Vitale gives her sophisticated and coloured twist to our classic dishes. You finally must visit Mimì alla ferrovia, close to the train station, Mimi is the ambassador of Neapolitan traditional cuisine.
We like to have aperitivo at Fonoteca in the Vomero area (they also have a selection of records), after dinner at L’Antiquario for a classy atmosphere or Perditempo for a chatty evening.

Is there a local dish and / or drink that you’d suggest trying out?

Pasta alla Genovese is the thing!!! Of course get a nice “limoncello” to end the meal.

What art galleries and / or museums should we not miss if visiting your region?

Our region is full of archaeological and artistical sites. In Napoli we recommend visiting nice galleries such as Alfonso Artiaco, Lia Rumma and Fondazione Morra Greco, in addition to The Museum of Capodimonte and The National Archaeological Museum. Just outside Napoli, you can’t miss Pompei ruins, obviously.

Where would you go for a nice walk and perhaps watch a romantic Neapolitan sunset?

Well, surely walking along the Lungomare of Mergellina is an amazing experience: you can feel the salty sea water, watch the Vesuvius and Castel dell’Ovo. And if you’re hungry, take a stop by at food trucks to get a few taralli and lupini.

And when the weather is hotter, which beach do you recommend for a refreshing swim?

Marechiaro village is lovely and it has inspired our song “Marechià”.
Take a kayak from the guys at “Kayak Napoli” and visit the natural reservoir of “Gajola” and “Trentaremi”. Don’t forget to bring along with you on the beach your nice panino with mozzarella and tomato. For a more relaxing journey, you can get to “Acque Minerali” spot by a boat from the village of Marechiaro. 

When the sun goes down, which would be a good place to go for a dance or watch a live band?

During summer, there are several beaches for listening to music: reach the Coroglio area and you have many options. As indoor clubs, go to Duel for live concerts and to Basic for dj parties!  

You’re professional crate diggers, what flea markets and record stores are good for searching Neapolitan music?

You can go to the flea market at Ippodromo di Agnano on Sundays! Go in the early morning to find the gems 🙂 be sure to have rent a car!
We usually like to even go crazier and just drive to nowhere and ask people around, where to find records. Sometimes also Napoli’s neighbouring towns offer great surprises 🙂
Futuribile Records store is the spot to find under the radar records and freshly released music: they have a great selection of Neapolitan music but also delivered with rarities all around the world. 

If you could leave on a holiday tomorrow, which Volotea destination would you choose and why?

Tangeri – it’s a border place where you can witness Africa and Europe meet.

Possibly the most authentic city of Italy, Naples has been the meeting point of empires and cultures over the centuries.

Fiercely authentic, it’s remarkable history, landmarks and, most of all, the genuine character of its people, have made this city one of the most interesting destinations to visit in the Mediterranean. Looking up to Mount Vesuvius (the volcano that turned the Roman city of Pompeii into ashes) and a boat ride away from the islands of Ischia or Capri and the Coast of Amalfi, Napoli, its italian name, has almost everything one could wish for a perfect holiday or visit: breathtaking landscapes and coastline, a buzzing city center with hundreds of surprising corners, amazing food and colorful people.

Naples has been the inspiration of many, including the Neapolitan Novels by Elena Ferrante, or by Hollywood classics like It started in Naples (1960). Admired within Italy and abroad, the experience of visiting Naples is most likely to stay with visitors for a long time.

In order to let you discover more about Naples, we recommend the following reads and films for those wanting to get inspired by the greatness of this city.

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS ON FICTION BOOKS

My Brilliant Friend (novel).
By Elena Ferrante

“A modern masterpiece from one of Italy’s most acclaimed authors, My Brilliant Friend is a rich, intense and generous hearted story about two friends, Elena and Lila. Ferrante’s inimitable style lends itself perfectly to a meticulous portrait of these two women that is also the story of a nation and a touching meditation on the nature of friendship. Through the lives of these two women, Ferrante tells the story of a neighbourhood, a city (Naples) and a country as it is transformed in ways that, in turn, also transform the relationship between her two protagonists.”

—Review by Goodreads

The Neapolitan Novels is a 4-book series about the psychological and life experience of two friends and their coming of age, from childhood to adulthood, as they try to make a life for themselves within the context and complexity of their poor neighborhood in Naples.

Through the lives of these two women, Ferrante tells the story of a city, and a country as it is transformed in ways that, in turn, also transform the relationship between her protagonists. These works have been acclaimed worldwide and been turned into theatre plays, and even an HBO series entitles My Brilliant Friend.

Elena Ferrante is the pseudonym of an Italian anonymous writer and possibly the most popular writer ever to write fiction books where the action takes place in Naples.

Ferrante is one of the world’s great storytellers. With My Brilliant Friend she has given her readers an abundant, generous, and masterfully plotted page-turner that is also a stylish work of literary fiction destined to delight readers for many generations to come.

“Ferrante transforms the love, separation and reunion of two poor urban girls into the general tragedy of their city.”
—The New York Times

“My Brilliant Friend, translated by Ann Goldstein, is stunning: an intense, forensic exploration of the friendship between Lila and the story’s narrator, Elena. Ferrante’s evocation of the working-class district of Naples where Elena and Lila first meet as two wiry eight-year-olds is cinematic in the density of its detail.”
—The Times Literary Supplement

“Elena Ferrante is proving that literature can cure our present ills; it can cure the spirit by operating as an antidote to the nervous attempts we make to see ourselves reflected in the present-day of a country that is increasingly repellent.”
—Il Mattino

Pompeii
by Robert Harris

“With his trademark elegance and intelligence Robert Harris recreates a world on the brink of disaster.

All along the Mediterranean coast, the Roman empire’s richest citizens are relaxing in their luxurious villas, enjoying the last days of summer. The world’s largest navy lies peacefully at anchor in Misenum. The tourists are spending their money in the seaside resorts of Baiae, Herculaneum, and Pompeii.

But the carefree lifestyle and gorgeous weather belie an impending cataclysm, and only one man is worried. The young engineer Marcus Attilius Primus has just taken charge of the Aqua Augusta, the enormous aqueduct that brings fresh water to a quarter of a million people in nine towns around the Bay of Naples. His predecessor has disappeared. Springs are failing for the first time in generations. And now there is a crisis on the Augusta’s sixty-mile main line—somewhere to the north of Pompeii, on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius.

Attilius—decent, practical, and incorruptible—promises Pliny, the famous scholar who commands the navy, that he can repair the aqueduct before the reservoir runs dry. His plan is to travel to Pompeii and put together an expedition, then head out to the place where he believes the fault lies. But Pompeii proves to be a corrupt and violent town, and Attilius soon discovers that there are powerful forces at work—both natural and man-made—threatening to destroy him.”

— Review by Goodreads

ENJOY AN EVENING OF POP-CORN AND MOVIES

Pompeii: The Last Day (Documentary)

A dramatized documentary by the BBC that tells of the eruption of Mount Vesuvius on 24 August 79 AD.

This eruption covered the Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum in ash, killing all those trapped between the volcano and the sea. The documentary portrayed the different phases of the eruption.

Step back in time and visit the vanished city on its last day, as the mighty volcano Vesuvius explodes in a 24-hour reign of chaos. On August 24th, AD79, Pompeii’s citizens witness day turning into night as 4 billion tons of pumice, rock, and ash burst forth from Vesuvius.

Pompeii: The Last Day uses archaeological evidence, including the writings of one survivor, to unravel and interpret the mystery of those final hours. Lavish special effects reconstruct each stage of Vesuvius’s cataclysmic eruption and its impact on soldiers, slaves, families, and lovers as they struggle with the unfolding tragedy.

“One of the greatest natural disasters – and most fateful days – comes to vivid life in this critically acclaimed dramatization.”

— topdocumentaryfilms.com

Benvenuti al Sud
Directed by Luca Miniero (2010)

The frustrated postal manager Alberto (Claudio Bisio) is looking for a transfer to the city of his dreams, Milan, but is banished instead to a hole-in the-wall branch in the south. So terrified is the family of “down under” that Alberto’s wife (Angela Finnocchiaro) stays behind with their son.

Alberto arrives in a tiny town by the sea near Naples in a bulletproof vest and armed with typical northern Italian clichés about the south – it’s unbearably hot, dirty and full of thieves and killers. Of course, he’s won over by the warm and friendly locals, especially the postman (Alessandro Siani, the best of the bunch) and a postal clerk (Valentina Lodovini), who harbor a secret love for one another and who teach Alberto some of the impregnable local dialect.

The film requires much suspension of disbelief but it’s perfectly entertaining if silly fun.

What the film is trying to show us is the difference between the north and the south, to start with the language, then their way of life and the attitude of the southern Italians towards life.

Great comedy.

OUR SOUTH ITALY PLAYLIST

Remember that if you would like to discover the most popular music in the South of Italy, you have our playlist in Spotify. Don’t miss out!

WHERE WE FLY FROM / TO NAPLES

If you already have made up your mind about visiting Naples, its tumultuous history, passionate people and the finest food in Italy, take a look at our flights offers and we will be delighted to take you there. At Volotea you can always book your flight at the best price.

EXPLORING CAMPANIA BY SEA

The Lauro Group has been connecting Naples for 80 years with some of Campania’s most charming gems: Amalfi, Capri, Ischia, Sorrento and many other unmissable destinations. 

Travelling with Lauro offers an experience surrounded in comfort and beauty. The group’s fleet consists of innovative, eco-friendly ships, with low emissions and full respect for the marine ecosystems. The Group pays the utmost attention to client requirements, with dedicated customer care and a modern, functional hub in Naples to welcome you.

Those looking for quality, hand-made goods, head to Eddy Monetti. Neapolitans love to shop, and trawling their street markets provides a great opportunity of hanging out with the locals, picking up some super-fresh fish for dinner, or snaffling a spangly new top for €3. But Naples is also famous for quality craftsmanship – hand-stitched leather, made-to-measure suits and

seriously classic styling. At Eddy Monetti silk ties are hand-stitched, shirts are made-to-measure and Monetti’s own-label collection is made up of carefully chosen labels. You’re in good company; Crown princes and stars of stage and screen wear Monetti Menswear.