Destination: Naples

Walking around Naples in autumn and winter means immersing yourself in the magic of a tradition that unveils the soul of the city: nativity scenes – along alleys, in shops and museums.

Why are nativity scenes so important in Naples?

The nativity scene is no mere Christmas decoration for Naples, it is a genuine artistic and cultural legacy. Here the nativity scene is theatre, family ritual, reminiscence and innovation all at the same time. Its roots date back to the eighteenth century Baroque period, when Neapolitan aristocrats commissioned sacred subjects and commonplace daily scenes from highly talented sculptors, giving rise to a refined art form that has endured over the centuries.

Since then, generations of artisans have continued to fashion shepherds, angels, farmers, animals and everyday figures, making the nativity scene a symbol of the city. In fact, Christmas starts long before 25 December in Naples. Already in autumn the shops begin to throng with curious people, collectors and travellers searching for unique figurines.

Where is the famous street for nativity scenes?

The Via San Gregorio Armeno, in the heart of Naples’ historic centre, is known the world over as the street of the nativities, the “strada dei presepi”. It is a narrow, crowded alley onto which little stores and craft workshops open, often hidden behind doors or in cellars transformed into studios.

Master nativity scene artisans work all year round here, but autumn is the most evocative time, when the windows light up with new figurines and you are enveloped in the scent of resin and cork powder. As well as the classic terracotta shepherds, there is no shortage of surprises, as statuettes of contemporary characters appear alongside Joseph and Mary. You can find Michael Jackson, Maradona, Charlie Chaplin, Cristiano Ronaldo and even politicians and stars from Italian TV. The blend of irony and topicality keeps the tradition alive and in touch with the present.

Who are the most famous master artisans?

The Neapolitan nativity tradition boasts the only artisan school of its type in the world. Some families have been in the trade for centuries, with techniques handed down from one generation to the next. The workmanship is a complex art: the figurines’ heads and hands are often made of terracotta, the eyes of glass, the bodies of hemp and iron wire, the clothes hand sewn in fine fabrics.

Masters such as Giuseppe Ferrigno and Vincenzo and Luciano Capuano have made their workshops famous far beyond Italy’s borders and they have also collaborated with international museums. When you enter their workshops you witness a creative process that combines manual skills, passion and a dash of Neapolitan theatrics.

Beyond San Gregorio: where can you wonder at historical nativity scenes?

Not just shops: Naples has some of the world’s most fascinating collections of nativity scenes in its museums and churches.

• The Museum of San Martino: housing the famous “Cuciniello” nativity scene, a nineteenth-century masterpiece with over 800 figures, meticulous landscapes and spectacular scenery. It is considered one of the absolute peaks of Neapolitan nativity art.
• The Cloister of Santa Chiara: where you can admire an eighteenth-century nativity scene that mixes sacred scenes and daily life.

• The Church of San Lorenzo Maggiore: preserving a monumental nativity scene that attests to popular devotion.

To visit these collections is to journey through time, discovering how the art of nativity scenes has presented the story of Naples over the centuries.

What mood spreads through Naples in autumn and winter?

Wandering through the historic centre during this period is a unique experience. The medieval streets, already enchanting in themselves, are filled with lights, colours and voices. Tourists mingle with Neapolitans looking for the right figurine to enrich the family nativity scene.

Each craft workshop is a little treasure trove of creativity, and the artisans are often happy to tell anecdotes, demonstrate techniques and reveal curiosities. It is easy to get swept away by this lively atmosphere, where sacred and profane, tradition and modernity blend harmoniously.

Are there any curiosities relating to Neapolitan nativity scenes?

Yes, lots. One of the most distinctive is the presence of “unusual” figures in the sacred scenes. Along with the Magi and baby Jesus, Neapolitan nativity scenes often feature fruit sellers, innkeepers, washerwomen and even quirky characters such as Pulcinella (a typical Neapolitan figure of the commedia dell’arte). Their presence represents the people of Naples, telling the story of eighteenth century daily life.

Another curiosity is that some scenes include statuettes depicting political or sporting personalities, a tradition born to poke fun at contemporary events and to enrich the scene with recognisable characters at the same time.

What tastes can you savour in Naples in winter?

The nativity scene experience is complemented by the typical seasonal cuisine. As you walk through the alleyways, it is hard to resist the enticing scent of Christmas treats such as:

• Struffoli: little balls of deep fried sweet dough, covered with honey and coloured sprinkles.

• Roccocò: crunchy almond and spice biscuits, perfect for enjoying with a glass of sweet wine.
• Sfogliatelle: in crumbly or curly versions, with a semolina and ricotta cream filling, a classic Neapolitan pastry.

These flavours, added to the warmth of the alleys and the excitement of the markets, complete your immersion in the Neapolitan tradition.

Why visit Naples in autumn and winter?

Because this is when the city shows its most authentic face. Far from the summer heat, Naples becomes an open-air theatre where the tradition of nativity scenes intertwines with art, history and daily life.

It is not just a matter of admiring the decorations, but of participating in a collective ritual that merges sacred and profane, faith and irony, craftsmanship and popular culture. Neapolitan nativity scenes reveal the city better than any tourist guide. They are a lens through which to glimpse the soul of Naples.

Naples is not just sea and pizza. In autumn and winter it becomes an extraordinary scenario, where nativity scenes, artisans and traditional treats create a unique atmosphere. Visiting the shops on San Gregorio Armeno, admiring the museum collections and losing yourself in the alleys and markets means experiencing one of the most lively and fascinating of Mediterranean traditions. A traditional art that continually reinvents itself and that makes Naples an unmissable destination for people seeking genuine emotions.

If you are planning a holiday in Naples in September, I recommend that you do not miss the Feast of San Gennaro, the city’s patron saint, which is celebrated every year on 19 September in the entire historic centre.

This celebration is a moment of great importance for the Neapolitans, as it is said that the fate of the city depends on the outcome of the liquefaction of blood, and attracts visitors from all over the world.

This a unique opportunity to plunge into Naples’ culture and traditions. In addition to its religious significance, the event offers the opportunity to explore the city, taste its world-famous cuisine and experience moments of genuine devotion.

The Meaning of the Feast of San Gennaro

The Feast of St. Gennaro is dedicated to the patron saint of Naples, Saint Januarius, a third-century bishop. Legend has it that the saint’s blood, preserved in two vials, miraculously liquefies during the festival. This event is considered a sign of protection and blessing for the city and its inhabitants.

If the blood of San Gennaro does not liquefy during the Feast, it can cause some concern and anxiety among the faithful present. Traditionally, the liquefaction of San Gennaro’s blood is considered a positive omen and a sign of protection for the city of Naples. When the miracle does not occur, some people may interpret it as a possible omen of misfortune or future difficulties.

However, it is important to stress that the event of blood liquefaction is considered a miracle and cannot be predicted or guaranteed. There have been cases in history where blood did not liquefy during the Feast of San Gennaro, and yet there were no negative consequences for the city or its inhabitants.

Religious and devout people interpret the phenomenon in different ways. Some believe there may be spiritual or divine reasons behind the non-liquefaction, such as a call for more faith or a warning to improve spiritual and moral standards. Others see the failure to liquefy as a natural occurrence, giving scientific or physical explanations for the phenomenon.

However, the blood’s failure to liquefy does not affect the importance and relevance of the Feast of San Gennaro for the city of Naples. The feast continues to have a deep meaning for Neapolitans, who come together to celebrate their patron saint and keep alive the tradition and devotion that connects them to San Gennaro.

The stages of the festival

The Feast of San Gennaro begins with a solemn procession through the streets of Naples. The silver bust of the saint, carried on the shoulders of the faithful, is accompanied by religious and civil representatives in an atmosphere of devotion and joy. During the procession, which goes through the city’s oldest quarters, one can admire spectacular examples of sacred art and traditional folklore.

The climax of the feast takes place in the Chapel of the Treasure of San Gennaro, inside the Cathedral of Naples. Here, the two vials containing the saint’s blood are exposed to the public, awaiting the miracle of liquefaction. The faithful anxiously await the event, while a priest chants prayers and hymns.

An interview with a Neapolitan expert

To find out more about this event, we asked Raffaele de Lucia, editor of Napoli Village, a Naples online newspaper, who has taken part in the festival every year for several years now.

A. Raffaele, would you summarise in a few words what the story of San Gennaro is?

R. It must first be said that his real name was not Gennaro, but most probably Proculus or Publius Faustus Januarius. Gennaro was only his surname. Specifically, Saint Gennaro was a martyr, i.e. a man who died because he refused to recant his Christian faith. The cult around him has been spreading since the 5th century AD.

A. What is the explanation for your miracle?

R. It is wrong to speak of a miracle, because what happens in the Neapolitan city is defined as a prodigy. A miracle can only come from God, while a prodigy can be divine in nature, angelic in nature, or be caused by a prodigious saint – in this case the patron saint of the city of Naples. Even the Church does not officially recognise it as a miracle, but considers it scientifically inexplicable and approves its veneration by the people.

A. Can you tell us some less-known facts about San Gennaro?

R. There are many curious facts about the patron saint, from his name to his actual place of birth. But both Neapolitans and tourists are always astonished when they visit the Museum of the Treasure of San Gennaro located in Via Duomo in Naples. Inside, there are several objects that belonged to the Saint. One of them is his crown, but also a red horn, a typical Neapolitan figure. It is said that when San Gennaro was beheaded at Pozzuoli, his thumb was amputated. And from that’s how the Neapolitan cornetto, now known as a lucky charm throughout the world, was created.

A. When and how does the feast of San Gennaro take place?

R. There are three prodigies associated with San Gennaro: in May, on the first Saturday of the month; on 19 September, the day of the city’s patron saint, when the city of Naples dresses up and the faithful actively and joyfully participate in the liquefaction; and finally, on 16 December, because back in 1631, during the eruption of Vesuvius, the Saint’s half-bust was transported below the lava to make it stop, and this date has also been celebrated since then, with the prodigy repeating itself year after year.

A. Tell us about the relationship the city of Naples has with its patron saint

R. Neapolitans have a special relationship with the Saint. They see him as the protector of the city, since he saved it from plagues and eruptions.  

A. Do you have any advice for those who want to attend the festival?

R. I strongly advise everyone to come and attend the festival and the celebration of the prodigy. It is a moment of great faith and emotion. It is worth visiting Naples on the feast of 19 September, but not only then, because Naples has so much to give and to discover.

We thank Raffaele for his help.

Practical tips for enjoying the festival:

• Plan ahead: the Feast of San Gennaro attracts a large number of visitors, so it is advisable to plan your trip in advance. Book flights and accommodation at least one month in advance to guarantee availability.

• Explore Naples: take advantage of your visit to discover the beauty and history of Naples. Visit the historic centre, a UNESCO world heritage site, enjoy the famous Neapolitan pizza, and admire the city’s fascinating artistic and architectural treasures.

• Attend high mass: attend high mass in the Cathedral of Naples, during which the vials containing the blood of San Gennaro are displayed. This moment is charged with meaning and spirituality.
• Take part in the procession: join the procession from Naples Cathedral to experience the unique atmosphere of the festival. Wear comfortable clothing and respect local traditions.

Where to Sleep in Naples

Naples offers a wide range of accommodation options to suit all needs. If you want to fully immerse yourself in the festive atmosphere, I recommend looking for accommodation near the historic centre or in the Spanish quarter, which are full of bed and breakfasts and family-run and non-family-run boutique hotels.

This way you will be right in the centre, with the main monuments just a few metres away, and you can visit the city on foot. If, on the other hand, you are looking for more upmarket hotels, go to the seafront and you will find elegant hotels, boutique hotels and even cheaper options such as bed and breakfasts and flats for rent.

And if you want to visit other beautiful places in Campania in addition to Naples, read my articles on the Amalfi Coast, the archaeological sites at Pompeii, and the sea around Naples.

If you’re staying in Naples, a trip to Pompeii is an absolute must. This archaeological site is truly unique and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997.

Pompeii is the only remaining tangible sign of what life was like for the ancient Romans just before the violent volcanic eruption in 79 AD destroyed the cities of Pompeii, Herculaneum, Stabiae and Oplontis.

The discoveries made during the excavations instigated by Charles III of Spain provide some of the finest indications of life in Roman times and Pompeii is the best preserved city of that era; most of the finds (including frescoes, mosaics and statues, as well as simple everyday artefacts), are now held in the National Archaeological Museum in Naples, with a smaller number in the Antiquarium of Pompeii.

Visiting the archaeological site of Pompeii is like stepping back in time, as the city itself became frozen in time on that day of the famous eruption in 79 AD, when ash and lava rained down from the sky and enveloped everything below: homes, inhabitants, roads, public buildings and objects from everyday life. It was as if everything were captured in a terrible snapshot that has survived to this day for us to see.

Visitor information

The ruins of Pompeii are open all year round and you can either simply purchase an entry ticket or opt for a guided tour with a private guide or a group tour.

The ancient city covers an area of around 66 hectares, whilst the excavated area covers around 44 hectares, where approximately 1,500 buildings were discovered, including domus (Roman villas) and monuments.

There are three entrances to the site:

• The Porta Marina entrance, near the train station on the Circumvesuviana rail network.
• The Piazza Esedra entrance, coinciding with the motorway exit.
• The Piazza Anfiteatro entrance, towards the modern town.

I would highly recommend taking a guided tour of the site as your guide will be able to explain all about the ruins in amazing detail.

What to see in Pompeii

The Roman Amphitheatre

The first recommended stop is the Roman Amphitheatre, situated right opposite the Piazza Anfiteatro entrance and 100 years older than the Coliseum. It was built around 70 BC by the duumvirs, or magistrates, Q. Valgus and M. Porcius, and is one of the oldest and best preserved amphitheatres in the world. It could hold over 20,000 spectators. Originally clad in marble, due to its size it was the first building to be plundered once the ruins had been discovered.

Plays and other public performances are still staged there today, mainly on summer evenings.

The Garden of the Fugitives

The Garden of the Fugitives was originally an old quarter of the ancient city of Pompeii, which was then converted into a vineyard in the years prior to the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD. Its current name relates to the discovery of the bodies of 13 victims, who were apparently trying to escape to the Nocera Gate before they were encased in ash and lava, as can be seen in the casts created using the technique of pouring liquid plaster into the cavities.

The House of Octavius Quartio

Of all the Roman villas that you can visit in Pompeii, I have to mention the House of Octavius Quartio, which is a “miniature version” of the large villas of the aristocracy that were spread throughout the countryside outside of the city,and where you’ll find the frescoes of the Myth of Narcissus and Suicide of Pyramus and Thisbe.

The House of Venus in the Shell

Another domus worth visiting is the House of Venus in the Shell. Damaged by one of the bombs that fell on Pompeii in 1943 and excavated in 1952, this house appears to be built on the site of an earlier one, extending the peristyle and triclinium and changing the layout of the rooms, almost all arranged around the garden.

The house is famous for the scenes depicted on its south wall: a garden bursting with plants and copious fauna, with low latticework and other decorative features on three panels.

The Roman Forum

The spectacular Roman Forum, which makes any visit to Pompeii all the more enthralling, is of course unmissable. From here you can see Mount Vesuvius, majestically looking down on Pompeii, with its somewhat ominous air that allows you to imagine how the city felt before the eruption.

The Forum stands at the intersection of the main axes of the original urban hub and was the city’s main square, with no access permitted to carts or chariots: around it stood religious, political and financial buildings. From the 1^st century AD, the Forum was used for celebratory events and was therefore surrounded by statues: on the south side stood the honorary statues, in front of the urban administrative buildings, whilst those of illustrious citizens could be found along the porticos. Only their bases can be seen today; the sculptures have not been found and may have been removed by inhabitants of Pompeii who returned after the eruption to take anything that they were able to recover. In the middle of the west side stands a rostrum.

The Thermal Baths of Pompeii

As in all Roman cities, Pompeii also had its thermal baths. The Forum’s “thermae”, also called the Fortune Baths or Stabian Baths, are a Roman thermal complex designed for the wealthiest members of society. The baths, a favourite Roman pastime, are divided into two sections: one for men and the other for women, with separate entrances. Each contained a series of rooms with different functions: the apodyterium, frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium.

The Lupanar

The Lupanar is one of the most famous and characteristic places on the entire archaeological site, even though it’s located on the periphery. This was the city’s ancient brothel, distributed over two floors with five small rooms on the ground floor and five above. Each room contains a stone bed on which matting or mattresses would be laid. At the entrances to each alcove are different paintings with erotic themes, probably depicting the type of service offered by the prostitute residing there.

The Villa of the Mysteries

Finally, make sure you visit the Villa of the Mysteries, one of the most mysterious and intriguing domus in Pompeii, dating back to the 1^st century BC. The villa probably belonged to the Istacidii family, one of the most powerful in the city during the Augustan Age.

How to get to Pompeii

The Ruins of Pompeii are a few kilometres outside of Naples on the road leading to Sorrento, in the current town of Pompei, rebuilt right alongside the ancient city.

You can get there on the Circumvesuviana rail network, from the Napoli Piazza Garibaldi station, travelling towards Sorrento and getting off at the “Pompei Scavi” stop, or by private transfer or car from Naples, taking the motorway towards Salerno and exiting at Pompei centro.

If you’re planning to visit Naples, I would make sure you keep at least one day spare for Pompeii, which you can visit on a day trip from the city. Then don’t miss out on a visit to the fascinating Underground Naples in the city’s Old Town, steeped in myths and legends that will take your breath away!