Have you ever dreamed of being surrounded by vineyards, overlooking the sea, with a glass in your hand and the fragrance of the Mediterranean scrub in the air? Then Bastia, in the north of Corsica, might just be the place for you.
This charming corner of the Mediterranean has everything it needs to capture the hearts of wine lovers (and those about to discover this passion). From vine-coated hills to picture-postcard villages where time stands still, Haute-Corse invites you to uncork its soul.
Bastia, where the adventure (and tasting) starts
Bastia is not only the gateway to the north of Corsica, it’s also a gem with its own distinctive flavour. With its vibrant Old Port, its faded façades and bohemian vibe, the city looks like a movie yet to be shot. Stroll through Saint-Nicolas Square, lose yourself in the narrow streets and alleyways of Terra Vecchia, and start your route off with a glass of wine on a terrace with sea views. Because here, you always drink wine with the sea as your backdrop.
The north of the island is a place where nature still reigns supreme: sheer mountains, steep cliffs, villages hanging off the hillsides… and vineyards flourishing where you would think it impossible. The wine in this region is full of character, just like the landscape. It boasts the designation of origin labels Patrimonio, Coteaux du Cap Corse and Muscat du Cap Corse, names that will make you lick your lips before you’ve tried a single drop.
So what thrives there? Noble grape varieties such as niellucciu (the Corsican cousin of sangiovese), sciaccarellu, vermentinu… Grapes that produce full-bodied, aromatic wines with bold personalities. One glass and you’ll see why the Corsicans are so proud of their wine.
A toast with views: routes for savouring the north of Corsica
From Bastia to Patrimonio: the sanctuary of Corsican wine
Just a 30-minute drive from Bastia, Patrimonio is Corsica’s wine mecca. Its exceptional microclimate and calcareous soils make it a little paradise for winegrowers. Here you can visit family-run wineries where you’ll be welcomed with a smile and handed a glass. Don’t miss Clos Santini, Domaine Arena or Domaine Leccia.
And as you’re in the area, drive on to Saint-Florent, a small coastal gem and a perfect lunch spot by the sea. Pair a fresh fish platter with a nicely chilled vermentinu… and there you have it: the taste of the Mediterranean.
The Cap Corse route: wine, sea and the soul of Corsica
Jump in the car and drive to Cap Corse, that narrow peninsula that looks like a finger pointing skywards. Here, the vineyards cling to the hillsides that drop down to the sea, and the wine is produced on breathtaking terraces. Visit the villages of Erbalunga, Rogliano or Centuri, try the sweet, heady muscat du Cap Corse and immerse yourself in the slow pace of Corsican life.
Erbalunga
A golden tip: stop at some of the small wineries in Cap Corse, where the producers will tell you stories of wind, salt and age-old vines.
Nebbio and the inner heart of the island
Further inland, Nebbio is a region that’s not so well known but is just as fascinating. Small villages such as Oletta, Murato or Santo-Pietro-di-Tenda await you with their cobbled streets, their stone architecture and, of course, authentic, delicious wines. Here, the wine is paired with Corsican cuisine: cured cheeses, sausages such as figatellu, chestnut bread and Mediterranean scrub honey. An absolute feast for the senses.
Lake Padua, Nebbio
A journey to be sipped slowly
Discovering the north of Corsica through its wine is about much more than visiting wineries; it’s about savouring the history, culture and nature of an untameable island. From Bastia, every route is a toast to the good things in life. So now you know; pack your bags, refine your palate… and à votre santé! 🥂
Whether you’re a fan of rock, pop or electronic music, here’s everything you need to know about the best 2025 summer music festivals in Volotea destinations.
If you can’t wait to get moving to the beat in the top European locations, pick the event that suits you best, find your flight and get ready to soak up the festival atmosphere and explore some of Europe’s most charming destinations!
Nuits Sonores calls itself a “cultural, artistic and urban laboratory”, focusing on the world of electronic and digital culture. An unmissable event for lovers of electronic music, taking place on four different sites in Lyon from 28 of May to 1 of June, turning the city and its different districts into one vast club. During the day, emerging artists will be performing in an industrial site, whilst at night, iconic names such as Jeff Mills, Peggy Gou and BICEP will take their turn on the other stages.
Les Petites Folies is an essential music festival in Brittany, offering a unique experience for 12 years. Nestled on the beach with a view of the sea, it offers a diverse program of national and international artists, in a friendly and family atmosphere. This year, the event will take place from June 6 to 8, 2025 in Lampaul-Plouarzel. The first artists announced: Philippe Katerine, The Avener, Hoshi.
The Marsatac festival has been taking place for 26 years and is the perfect event for kicking off summer with some music and fun; it’s held every year in mid-June in a large park covering an area of 12,000m2, Parc Borély, in Marseille, drawing artists from the worlds of electronic music and rap. Emerging talent mixes with more famous names from the urban scene, such as Brutalismus 3000, Laylow, Fonky Family.
You can buy 1-day, 2-day and 3-day tickets on the festival’s website.
Founded in 2006 and based in the town of Clisson, Hellfest has established itself as one of the main European festivals dedicated to hard rock. A real marathon of rock, hardcore, punk, grind, death metal and trash, just a few minutes from Nantes by train. Over four days, metal legends will take to the stage (of which there are six), to literally raise hell. There are 180 acts in total, including Korn, Muse, Linkin Park, Scorpions.
La Nuit de l’Erde is a diverse music festival featuring artists from different genres and styles; the event is held every summer between the end of June and the beginning of July in the Atlantic Loire region, around 25km north of Nantes. French headliner acts, Julien Doré, and international artists, including Sting and Mika, take their turn on the stage throughout the three days of the festival, which also aims to raise awareness of important social and environmental issues.
2025 marks the 25th staging of the festival, and 1-day tickets can be purchased from the website.
“The Garorock Experience is impossible to explain, you have to be there”, say the organisers of this French festival, which promises to welcome the summer with a long weekend of madness!
From 3 to 6th of July 2025, Garorock returns to Marmande with an exclusive line-up of 60 artists, performing on four stages in over 20 concerts a day. The line-up for the largest festival of contemporary music in south-west France is unmissable, with acts such as The Black Keys, Afrojack and Meute. You can also camp at this event and enjoy all kinds of entertainment, including a funfair.
The magical setting of Calvi Beach, one of the most popular tourist spots in Corsica, is hosting the 22ND Calvi on the Rocks festival at the beginning of July, an unmissable event where electronic music comes together with rock and pop, as well as local culture. French and international artists will get the audience on their feet beneath the sun and the stars of Corsica, not only on the official stages, but also at the beach parties or in the town’s clubs, which during the festival offer an extensive calendar of events. This year’s line-up is yet to be announced, but you can get an idea by taking a look at the past acts: Agoria, Barbara Butch, Andy4000…
Les Vieilles Charrues is the largest summer music event in France, a huge festival of indie rock and pop, lasting four days and held in the town of Carhaix, in northwest France. The festival will take place for the 33 time from 17 to 20 of July and aims to get thousands of festivalgoers singing and dancing to the beat of songs by the Alanis Morissette, Macklemore, The Kills and many more acts. You can camp on site if you like.
Are you looking for a festival that combines electronic beats with culture, art, sport and beach life? The Delta Festival, held at Les Plages du Prado, the beaches to the south of Marseille, is a cracking five-day event full of music and entertainment that could be just what you need.
Three festival stages will host a line-up of big names in techno and electronic music: Nina Kraviz, Kavinski, Acid Arab and many more; and between one session and the next, you can enjoy some water sports and beach parties. With the sea as your backdrop, the beach vibes and shows by acclaimed artists from the worlds of house, hardstyle, hip-hop and everything that gets your heart racing, Delta is without doubt an event to mark in your calendar of summer dates.
Calling rock fans from all over Europe: this event is for you! After the success of past events, 12, 13, 14 and 15 June 2025 sees the return to Florence of one of Italy’s largest music events: Firenze Rocks. Two unmissable evenings at Visarno Arena, with a line-up of international rock acts, such as Guns n’roses and Green Day.
A lovely, welcoming Sicilian town, the wonderful sea nearby, Sicilian food and hospitality and the best music of the moment. What more could you want? The most popular indie festival in Italy, Ypsigrock, returns for the 28th time to the amazing location of Piazza del Castello in Castelbuono, close to Palermo, between the Madonie mountains and the coast.
This year’s line-up has not yet been announced, but some of the big names featured in the past are The National, Editors, Mogwai, Beach House, Belle & Sebastian, Caribou and numerous other international and Italian acts.
The festival also has camping facilities in the San Focà pine forest. Tickets and passes are available from Dice.
Following the huge success of the 2024 event, the largest August public holiday (ferragosto) music event in Italy is returning this year: we’re talking about the Red Valley Festival in Olbia, taking place on the large stage of the Olbia Arena for four nights, and featuring some of the best artists on the Italian music scene. So put 13 to 16 August in your calendar for some singing, dancing and all-night fun to the sounds of Alan Walker, Lazza, Morad and many more, with a total of 30 artists and over 40 hours of music.
A total of 200 acts spread across this three-day festival in Barcelona, at the Parc del Fórum. An amazing and varied line-up, including artists of the calibre of Charli XCX, Sabrina Carpenter, Chappell Roan and LCD Soudnsystem, and always welcoming all genres and new trends in music, full of innovative, bold and surprising acts. The Barcelona venue, just outside the city overlooking the sea, has made Primavera a hugely popular event among European festivalgoers.
For some years now considered one of the top festivals both nationally and internationally, Bilbao BBK Live in 2025 will once again, for three days, be home to the most interesting current trends in music. The line-up for this summer is now complete and features some great artists, including Kylie Minogue, Pulp, Nathy Peluso. Besides the quality of the music, the festival is also unique in terms of its exceptional natural setting, Mount Cobetas, in the heart of Bilbao.
The Rockwave Festival, held at the Terra Vibe Park in Attica, was first staged in 1996, and since then has established itself as one of the top European rock festivals, managing to attract some of the world’s greatest bands. More than 300 acts have appeared at the festival so far, and this year’s line-up includes Mika and Pink Martini.
Ultra Europe is a great gathering of artists from the worlds of house, trance, dubstep, electronic music and many other genres with a common goal: to get the crowds dancing ‘til dawn! DJs from all over the world make sure that they’re in Split from 11 to 13 July to play their most explosive sets at Park Mladezi. Confirmed for this year are Hardwell, Maddix, Armin van Buuren and many more.
Looking for other ideas for the summer? Get some inspiration from the Volare magazine articles on the top Volotea destinations for your holiday!
Join us in discovering the Balagne, a region packed with hidden gems you won’t to miss! The historic town of Calvi, together with beach resorts like Algajola and Sant Ambroggio, will quickly win you over. The hinterland villages, perched above the plain and overlooking the Mediterranean, are also sure to charm you.
The town of Calvi, capital of the Balagne region, spans the gulf under the vigilant watch of its fortified citadel and Monte Cinto (2706 metres high). As the closest town to the mainland, it has been the island’s most popular tourist destination since the 1920s. A coveted summer destination, it is one of Corsica’s most sought-after and popular cities. Let’s find out why!
Things to see in Calvi
Stroll through the heights of Calvi, circling the citadel that proudly dominates the city!
This short detour is well worth exploring. Stroll up and down the narrow cobbled streets. I should warn you that it’s a bit of a climb, but you won’t want to miss it! The city heights feature magnificent views of the port, the beach, Calvi bay and the mountains on the horizon: a unique vantage point over the sea. You’ll also come across the ruins of the house where Christopher Columbus was born.
Visit Sainte-Marie-Majeure church
As you explore the streets, the church’s striking colours are sure to attract your attention. Built in the Baroque style and classified as a historical monument, it is easily recognisable with its appealing pink and gold façade. It’s no wonder that it features on all the local postcards. Nestled in the heart of the pedestrian old quarter, it is a hub for Calvi’s vibrant and joyful way of life. This emblematic city monument was built in the 17th century on the site of an ancient 4th century Paleo-Christian church. It marks the starting point of the grand procession on Good Friday. It now sits in an attractive shaded square lined with flowers, highlighting the high façade with the church dome and tall white 19th century bell tower behind it.
Admire the finest panoramas of Calvi’s bay from Notre Dame de la Serra
Definitely the most beautiful view in the region! The chapel overlooks the bay and boasts a stunning view of the town of Calvi. It is registered as a cultural and religious heritage site. The sculpture represents the Virgin Mary who the people of Calvi are said to have entrusted with the city’s protection and for 500 years have consecrated a pilgrimage to her. The Notre Dame de la Serra celebrations are held every year in September. Enclosed by an outer wall, it has wonderful views of the shoreline, the mountains and the citadel.
Getting there: 10 minutes by car from the foot of the citadel. Take the coastal road towards Galeria/Porto/Ajaccio (D81)
Things to do in Calvi
Wander through Calvi’s pedestrian streets
If you want to soak up the atmosphere, why not take a stroll, go shopping, have lunch at one of the restaurant terraces along the harbour to bask in the sun and admire the view over the bay.
A paragliding session for thrill seekers
Take the opportunity to fly over the Revellata peninsula, the ruins of Occi, or the beach and port of Calvi with its citadel. Take to the skies to fly like a bird or with your drone and marvel at the scenery from the air.
Attend the Calvi on the rocks music festival with your feet in the water
If you love music and parties, make sure you don’t miss this outstanding regional event, which will run from 4 to 7 of July 2024. The festival hosts French and international performers on a mission to rock the waves and the festival-goers, all gathered on the fine sand with a cocktail in hand and eager to party!
The shows will feature electro, rock, pop and Corsican culture, all in a naturally magical setting on Calvi’s beautiful beach. The festival will be celebrating its 21th anniversary this year and will do so in the company of great artists! Keep an eye on the festival’s Instagram profile to discover the line up!
And if you fancy discovering other must-see festivals for summer 2023, check out our article on the top European music events too!
Calvi’s most beautiful beaches
Calvi beach
This fine sandy beach is more than 2 kilometres long, bordered by a pine forest, and is ideal for families. It boasts a wide range of activities for young and old alike: jet skis, towed buoys, pedalos, canoeing, sailing, windsurfing, diving, inflatable structures, etc… There are also tennis courts, treetop adventure park, donkey/horse riding, and restaurants with spacious terraces, deckchairs and beach umbrellas.
Nichjaretu beach
Just 20 minutes south of Calvi, on the way to Galéria, Nichjaretu beach is made up of large pebbles. Visitor numbers are low, even in the peak of summer. Peace, beauty and tranquillity prevail here. The perfect opportunity to reflect, away from the city’s hustle and bustle. The beach can be reached from the right-hand side of the restaurant with the same name.
Ghjunchitu beach
Set below the road leading from Calvi to Ile Rousse, 20 minutes from the centre, the fine, soft sand and turquoise water are waiting for you at this beach lying between the sea and the scrubland.
The coves of Punta di Spanu
Located close to Sant Ambroggio, this natural and unspoilt site remains largely unknown to tourists. Punta di Spanu is a spectacular rocky headland with four small, easily accessible sandy coves. An ideal spot for snorkelling, so don’t forget your diving gear!
Discover the beautiful Isula Rossa named after the colour of its rocks
Ile Rousse boasts a distinctive old town and a bay flanked on one side by a red granite peninsula and by a long beach on the other side. Activities include: a walk along the seafront to the lighthouse on the island of Pietra, the market, antique dealers, tourist shops, coffee on the terrace at Place Paoli and an evening meal on the waterfront while contemplating the sunset.
Visit some of the island’s most beautiful inland villages
Take the time to stop in the heights of Balagne to sample the special atmosphere of these typical Corsican villages: Monticello, Corbara, Pigna, Sant’Antonio, Aregno, Feliceto, Speloncato… On your way you will see craftsmen (cutlers, potters, wood carvers…), charming little streets, cafés and typical Corsican inns. Make the most of the trip with a sunset dinner at the Altezza restaurant in the village of Montemaggiore. Just ten minutes from Calvi, the restaurant is delightful, especially the rooftop with its view of the mountains and the sun dipping into the bay of Calvi.
Visit the deserted hamlet of Occi
Located 10 minutes from Calvi on the way to Ile Rousse in the commune of Lumio, venture out on a short 30 minute ramble to the ghost village of Occi. Nestled at an altitude of 377 metres, it has panoramic views over the bay of Calvi and the Sant Ambroggio marina. A place steeped in history, where you can absorb its intense energy, enjoy the silence, meditate and be at one with nature.
Getting there: Take the path from Lumio, to the right of the Casa Di Ma hotel.
Hiking in Bonifatu forest
The best option to enjoy fresh air and warm sunshine. Put on a good pair of walking shoes and head for the beautiful mountains of the Balagne and the region’s most renowned forest, where you can discover its natural pools, a world away from the crowds. Complete various stages of the mythical GR20 footpath for beautiful one-day hikes (or longer if you like!). On the way back, we recommend stopping at the Auberge de la forêt Bonifatu (also a stopover lodge) for a hearty and satisfying meal.
When to visit Calvi
Choose the off-season! If you’re not sure where to spend your Easter or Autumn holidays, don’t give it a second thought and go for it! In less than two hours by plane, you’ll find yourself in a stunning setting with pleasant, warm weather and, above all…very few people. I’d highly recommend coming for a few days or visit in the summer if you have a few weeks to spare!
How to get to Calvi
You can choose to travel by sea or air. Beautiful Calvi can be reached by boat from towns in the south of France and from some Italian ports. But it also has an airport with a number of flights from Lille, Nantes and Bordeaux. Otherwise, the town is easily reached by road from Ile Rousse, Bastia and Ajaccio (which also have airports and plenty of routes operated by Volotea). You can also choose the train option, which may take longer, but is very different!
Conclusion
Calvi is an unmissable seaside resort if you are visiting Corsica. It’s a great place to stop for its vibrant culture and heritage, its abundant nature, its beaches and the sheer number of activities to choose from! As you can see, its reputation is well earned…
“U casgiu” (cheese in the Corsican language) is a mainstay of the region and one of the delicacies most appreciated by locals and travellers alike. A genuine product of ancestral know-how. Once known as the shepherds’ island, Corsica has inherited a strong cheese-making tradition.
Deep in the scrubland, goats and sheep share the dense, rich vegetation, enabling local producers to craft a wide variety of cheeses. This means that part of Corsica’s cultural heritage will be on your plate when you try this tasty speciality.
What to eat in Corsica?
Your stay in Corsica is an ideal opportunity to delve into its cuisine and sample some of the local favourites. Both savoury and sweet, you’ll be spoilt for choice.
If you are mad about charcuterie, this is the place for you! The choice is yours: lonzu, coppa, saucisson, prisuttu… And not forgetting figatellu, a dried sausage made from pig’s liver, the real hallmark of the island’s charcuterie. Traditionally smoked over chestnut wood, it is eaten only in winter served inside a plain sandwich.
Sample a wealth of different dishes when you go out for a meal or do your shopping at the market: cannelloni with brocciu, chestnut flour pulenta, Aziminu (Corsican bouillabaisse), aubergines à la bonifacienne… It’s hard to get more typical than stufatu, for example. This slow-cooked stew is made with manzo beef, panzetta (smoked bacon), tomato paste, red wine, onions, black olives and bay leaves.
For a sweet treat, try desserts made with Brocciu or chestnut flour, including flan, fondant, fritters and crème brulée. To accompany your coffee, tickle your taste buds with biscuits like Canistrelli, frappes and finuchjetti.
Not forgetting Corsican honey, olive oil, preserves, nougat, myrtle liqueur, beer and Corsican wine!
How to pick a Corsican cheese
Cheese is one of the cornerstones of Corsican cooking. Many cheesemakers sell their own produce. The island’s temperate, humid climate makes for good, tasty, and high-quality cheeses. The local vegetation is rich and dense. Goats and ewes feed on it, which produces top-quality, high-protein milk. This, combined with the ancestral expertise of the producers, is guaranteed to deliver the great taste of traditional Corsican cheese.
There are five main cheese families in Corsica, spread over five different regions.
“Bastilicacciu”, or Bastelicacci, is produced in the south-west, in the Ajaccio region. A mild, creamy and soft cheese resembling the famous Camembert. It can be easily spotted by its blue-grey rind. As time passes, the more it dries out, the stronger it becomes.
“Casgiu Sartinesu”, or Sartenais, found in the south of the island, in the Sartène region. This is a raw pressed cheese, smoked over a chestnut wood fire. Its distinctive feature is its light brown or even orange rind. Like tomme cheese, it can be aged for a long time without losing any of its flavour.
“Casgiu Venachese”, or Vénacais, a variety found on the east coast. This is a reasonably strong soft cheese, allowing you to enjoy the longer maturing process without it being too intense on the palate. It can be recognised by its “sticky” rind, usually yellow-orange in colour. It has been likened to Pont l’Evêque.
“Niulincu”, or Niolu, from Haute-Corse, in the Niolo region near Saint-Florent, in the centre of the island. This cheese has a strong character and owes its spiciness to the high moisture levels in the cellars where it was matured. Consumers be warned!
“Calizanincu”, or Vieux Calenzana, is found in the Balagne region, near Calvi, in the north-west of the island. A sharp cheese with a dry texture, ripened for several months. The unique potency of this cheese makes it a rare experience, as it is difficult to make and requires special expertise.
Photo credit: A Pasturella in Grossto Prugna – South Corsica.
Typical Corsican cheeses
These cheeses have been crafted from generation to generation paying the utmost respect to Corsican tradition. Here are a few examples:
Brocciu : Corsica’s national cheese, originally from the mountains, is a smooth and creamy cottage cheese. Made from whey, it is usually eaten chilled at the end of a meal paired with a marmalade or jam, sugar or honey, It can also be enjoyed as a savoury starter or main course with a slice of bread and a salad, or cooked as part of an omelette or fiadone, the signature dessert.
Ewe’s milk cheese: this cheese has a soft, melt-in-the-mouth texture.
Ewe’s milk Tomme: a favourite in Corsica, often eaten in sandwiches, bruschettas and even as a raclette cheese.
Fresh goat’s cheese used to make migliacci, a little-known traditional recipe from time immemorial. These are fresh cheese patties cooked on chestnut leaves in a wood-fired oven.
Each of these cheeses can be seasoned with dried fruit, hazelnuts and aromatic herbs typical of the Corsican maquis, used to coat the cheese. Not forgetting “Casgiu Merzu”, which translates as “rotten cheese”. As its name suggests, it is a putrid cheese, aged for a very long time by producers to the point where the maggots of the Piophila fly develop. It is therefore extremely strong and only the boldest will appreciate it.
Photo credit: A Fiera Fine Corsican grocers (Folelli, Haute-Corse)
Corsica’s cheese season
There’s no specific time of year to enjoy a good bite of Corsican cheese! Just remember that the brocciu season ends just before the peak of the summer heat, in June, when the ewes stop lactating. It’s time for summer grazing, when the sheep go to rest in the shade of the mountains until they are ready to return in November.
Follow the roads of the Isle of Beauty while inhaling the sweet scent of the maquis, and set off on a gastronomic adventure! You’ll meet dedicated producers who’ll tell you their stories as you taste their delicious wares. Cheese in Corsica is more than a skill, it’s a tradition, and each has its own character. So, do you prefer goat’s milk or ewe’s milk? Either way, bon apetitu !
Saint Florent, a quaint fishing and market-garden village, is one of Haute-Corse’s must-see destinations. A little gem tucked between Cap Corse and Balagne, the village was once a Genoese port. Many visitors come to this charming, mini seaside resort. It’s one of my favourite spots on this beautiful island. Read this article to find out why…
Things to do in Saint Florent
Take a walk around the Citadel
to admire the view over the Gulf of Saint Florent. Built in the 15th century, its strategic position enabled it to protect not only the town but also nearby Bastia. It was the site of one of the greatest battles of its time and one of the first Corsican towns occupied by the Genoese. Although the Citadel is not generally open to the public, it does host exhibitions and festivals. I just adore the view of the Gulf from the ramparts!
Stroll through the old quarter and along the marina
Admire the fishing boats and yachts along the marina. Take in the view of the gulf from Marinaccio quay with the Cap Corse mountains on one side and the scrubland on the other. Explore the village as you weave through the narrow streets to Piazza Doria with its fountain and the Church of Sainte-Anne. Shop in the boutiques, including those of local fashion designers Benoa and Osanna. For an afternoon treat, enjoy an ice cream on the terrace in Place des Portes, and after dusk, indulge in a cocktail from one of the bars or dine at one of the harbour-side restaurants.
Take a trip out to sea
to admire Saint Florent from a different angle or set sail for the villages of Cap Corse. There are many local agencies offering their services with a range of excursions to choose from.
Set off on an adventure through the Agriates desert
a vast expanse of maquis or scrubland. This uninhabited wilderness can be explored in a variety of ways: by quad bike, mountain bike, kayak, boat or 4×4. For the sporty ones out there, you can hike the famous sentier des douaniers (“customs officer’s path”). One of its highlights is discovering Saleccia and Lotu, two of the best beaches the region has to offer.
Water sports
For scuba diving enthusiasts, there’s a wealth of underwater wildlife to explore. After all, the Gulf of Saint Florent is known for being home to the largest colony of bottlenose dolphins in Corsica. Keep your eyes peeled! If you’re feeling really bold, you can opt for a water-skiing outing.
Hike up to the Mortella tower
Reached by a winding road leading up from Roya beach, hike up to the remains of a tower dating back to 1520 that was built to guard against pirates. This pleasant route runs along the entire length of the coastline. You’ll feel like the last soul on earth!
Saint Florent’s loveliest beaches
Saleccia beach
Welcome to paradise on earth! With its crystal-clear waters, this 1200-metre-long beach is completely unspoilt. Situated in the heart of the Agriates desert, it remains wild and boasts lush vegetation. I’ve never seen sand as white as here! As one of my favourite beaches, I can’t put into words how it makes me feel when I’m there. It’s magical.
There are 3 options for getting there: by boat from Saint Florent with a company like Le Popeye or Taxi Beach, by 4×4 with Saleccia off Road, or on foot, following the path along the D81 for a 4-5 hour trek.
Remember to book in advance during the high season.
Lotu Beach
400 metres of white sand and turquoise waters to die for! Nature reigns supreme here. I think this beach is even more untamed than Saleccia. Why? Because you might even bump into some cows! They love sunbathing too! There’s also a long wooden jetty stretching out over the turquoise waters where boats moor. This is the perfect place for an Instagram shot. It’s just like a postcard! This beach is also accessible by boat from Saint Florent.
Where to dine in Saint Florent
Le petit Caporal
This iconic restaurant, dating back to 1921, offers a wide selection of pastas, meats and wood-fired pizzas, as well as freshly caught seafood such as octopus from Cap Corse. For dessert, I recommend tiramisu or Fiadone, an island speciality made with brocciu cheese and lemon.
Getting there: 21 rue du Centre – 06 09 59 55 54
La crique
This is THE waterfront restaurant in Saint Florent. On the menu: wood-grilled meats and fish, spaghetti with prawns, lobster, sweet delicacies with a twist… Dine as you admire the sun setting on the horizon. An ideal setting for a romantic getaway.
Getting there: Lieu dit Citadelle – 06 03 66 55 67
Le Bectoir
Soak up the atmosphere with a cocktail before dining on fresh, high-quality local dishes in a relaxing setting right on the harbour. A special mention goes to the risotto, the sea bream ceviche and the tapas!
Getting there: Port de plaisance – 06 25 79 79 53
Things to do around Saint Florent
Visit the church of San Michele in Murato
Instantly recognisable thanks to its checkerboard pattern made up of alternating white (limestone from Saint Florent) and green (serpentine from the Bevinco river) stone.
Listed as a historic monument in 1875 and voted “most elegant and prettiest church in Corsica” in 1839 by the Inspector General of Historic Monuments, you need to see this building for yourself to fully appreciate its significance. It gives off vibes of intense energy, nature, calm and serenity. You’ll feel good here.
Getting there: Follow the D82 from Saint Florent. The church is on the D5, at the entrance to the village of Murato, set in its own grounds.
Discover the neighbouring villages of Cap Corse like Nonza and Canari
The villages are high up on the mountainside, so you’re bound to be treated to some stunning views along the way.
Attend the ‘Les nuits de la guitare’ festival in Patrimonio
Are you a music lover? Join us from 18 to 25 July 2023 for the 32nd anniversary of this festival, which each year hosts guitarists of all genres from all over the world: classical, jazz, blues, rock, gypsy, flamenco, tango, tzigane… This summer, you’ll have the chance to see -M-, Bernard Lavilliers, Izïa, Ibrahim Maalouf, Louis Bertignac, Chico & The Gypsies, Marcus Miller and many others… An event not to be missed if you’re in the region!
Ticket prices: From €35 to €45. 4-night pass (€130).
Online box office.
Picnic with style on Farinole beach
Enjoy an unusual and unique experience in Corsica with Il était un picnic, the first agency specialising in luxury picnics with the aim of transforming the traditional picnic into a truly exceptional and unforgettable experience! For a special day (whether big or small) or simply for indulgence, dine with your feet in the sand at sunset while facing the sea and let the magic happen.
I love this as alternative to going to the beach. Natural pools with refreshingly cool water are great fun, especially at the height of the summer heat. A good place to visit is the Genoese bridge at Torreno, near the easily accessible restaurant Le Jardin d’Antoine, or the Elleracce bridge at Bevinco.
I should point out that many accidents occur every year as a result of bad weather (rain and thunderstorms) and people jumping from rocks. If you’re looking for a thrill, you should always go canyoning with supervision from a local agency. Don’t take any unnecessary risks and use appropriate gear like closed-toe trainers or water shoes that will protect you from wet, slippery rocks. Save your flip-flops for the beach!
From its village and marina to its stunning unspoilt beaches and a host of activities, Saint Florent is a gem not to be missed! It’s a perfect destination for families, couples and solo travellers, who will appreciate the variety of experiences the area has to offer!
Are you looking for a small, quiet and unspoilt destination? Cap Corse is definitely for you!
A land of sailors, Isula ind’è l’isula, “the island within the island”, or “Little Corsica”, encapsulates all the delights of this beautiful island. Just a stone’s throw from Bastia and Saint Florent, on this 40 km long peninsula at the northern tip of Corsica, you can discover the heritage and cultural riches to be found between land and sea, in Corsica’s most protected and unspoilt region. Cap Corse offers the traveller authentic and surprising landscapes where you can lose yourself at leisure in the typical villages, venture along the roads and paths, mingle with the islanders and discover their way of life. Let’s get to know Cap Corse!
Things to do in Cap Corse
Stroll through the charming fishing village of Erbalunga
Just 10 km from Bastia, this historic marina, known for its port, crafts and tourist activities, is the gateway to Cap Corse. You’ll fall in love with its harbour, its quaint little houses built at sea level, and its superb Genoese tower.
Hiking the Sentier des Douaniers trail
It runs along the coast from Macinaggio to Centuri (about 8 hours’ walk). Nature lovers and seaside walkers take note: this walk, which is suitable for virtually everyone, will reveal the untamed essence of Cap Corse! Attractions include: turquoise waters, idyllic coves, protected natural sites, dense flora and fauna, nature reserves, historical treasures (like the A Torra Santa Maria di Riglianu Genoese tower, which has been guarding the shores since the 16th century)… In other words, you’ll be amazed!
Getting there: Port 20248 Macinaggio or Tamarone Beach 20247
Strolling or scuba diving in Macinaggio
This village, which lies at the end of the coastal road to the east of the headland, boasts the largest marina in Cap Corse. The environment here is perfect for lounging, enjoying the peace and quiet, meditating and pondering. There are many unspoilt coves near the village that can only be reached on foot, while diving enthusiasts will be pleased to know that the waters are among the best on the island (plane and boat wrecks, groupers, moray eels, barracudas…).
Visit Mattei windmill
Located in Ersa, at the tip of the headland, between Centuri and Macinaggio. A true regional landmark, unmissable. At 365 metres above sea level, the 360º panorama is awe-inspiring: to the north you can see the island of Giraglia and the town of Ersa, off the coast you can see the two islands of the Tuscan archipelago, Capraia and Gorgone, and to the south you can admire the western coast of Cap Corse, with the Agriate and the high peaks of the area providing a backdrop. Remember to check the opening times beforehand as it can sometimes be closed depending on the weather.
Wine tasting in Patrimonio
Positioned at the same height as Bastia and adjacent to Saint-Florent, this village marks the entrance to Cap Corse from the west coast and is an invitation to travel to the most beautiful vineyards of Haute-Corse: the AOP Patrimonio vineyard. With prized soil and an ideal climate, Cap Corse is a haven for wine. Meet passionate winemakers who will be delighted to let you sample the fruits of their labour on their estate. For those of you with a passion for wine, experience the wine route which runs from Luri to Macinaggio, where you will come across the vineyards of the AOP Corse Coteaux du Cap Corse and the AOP Muscat du Cap Corse.
Visit the jewel of Cap Corse: the hilltop city of Nonza
With its church, its mysterious fountain (Santa Ghjulia), its narrow streets and its Genoese tower overlooking the black pebble beach, this mystical village with its many legends is one of Cap Corse’s most appealing spots. It’s hard not to fall under its spell. Wander around and admire the incredible view of the Gulf of Saint-Florent from the belvedere of the Paoline tower, built in 1760, which provides a spectacular vantage point overlooking the sea.
The impressive beach of Nonza: the jewel of Cap Corse
Just below the hilltop village, it extends over 1.4km of small grey pebbles and black sand, making it unique and distinguishing it from other beaches on the island. This is not a natural phenomenon as these stones were dumped from the old asbestos mine located 15 km to the north, in Canari. Officially safe for people to use, you can swim there if the waves allow it. Surrounded by lush greenery, this unique beach has another special feature: visitors leave giant messages (initials, first names, drawings) that can be read from the top of the cliff, using the lightest-coloured pebbles on the beach.
There are two ways to access the beach: on foot, through the village, which requires no less than 500 steps to get there. Or by driving 10 minutes out of the village, where access is from the north end. Use the dedicated car park and walk along the coast for 10 minutes.
Access D80 20137 Nonza 20217
Tamarone Beach
Located in the north-east of Cap Corse, this beautiful bay with deep turquoise waters has a sandy beach (it is unusual to find sandy beaches in this part of the island). In a preserved setting classified as “protected natural site”, and surrounded by cliffs, Tamarone Bay is sublime, despite the presence of posidonia all year round. No water sports are available, but there is a snack stand open during the summer season which serves as a refreshment point for the many hikers who walk along the Douaniers trail.
Due to its restricted accessibility, the beach is not very busy in the summer. There are two ways to get to the beach: on foot from Macinaggio, along the Sentier des Douaniers, which takes about 45 minutes. Or by car, along a bumpy track for 10 minutes (drive slowly!).
Pietracorbara Beach
On the east coast of Cap Corse, this 450-metre long and wild sandy beach boasts a lovely view of the island of Elba (Tuscan archipelago). Very popular, it is a family beach where you can rest, swim (there are several platforms that allow you to dive straight into the turquoise waters) and sip fruit juice at one of the beach bars. It’s the perfect place for sunbathing while admiring the lush natural scenery, and also for kitesurfing and windsurfing. Easily accessible, you can still find a place to spread your towel, even in the middle of summer.
Where to stay in Cap Corse
– Hotel Castel Brando, located in the centre of the village of Erbalunga, is a charming 4-star hotel and restaurant. An old converted manor house, just a stone’s throw from the harbour, Castel Brando is a haven for peace, comfort and getting away from it all. Swimming pool, whirlpools, “Intimu” Spa… It is the ultimate relaxation destination.
Getting there: Route du Cap Erbalunga 20222 Brando – 04 95 30 10 30
– Palazzu Nicrosiguest house, in Rogliano. This legendary “American house”, an emblem of Cap Corse, offers guests two bedrooms and three suites overlooking the Mediterranean and is set in one hectare of grounds. Swimming pool, solarium nestled in the gardens, library, bar, cosy decor, cigar lounge… You’ll be charmed to stay in this unique and well-preserved setting, where time seems to have stood still.
– La Sassa: at the foot of the Nonza tower, for a cocktail at sunset or dinner with a jazz ambiance. Perched on a rocky outcrop, this bar-restaurant is actually a natural rooftop overlooking Nonza beach. The view is magnificent and the setting is as romantic as it is magical. Only local products and the best wines of the region are served, all in a welcoming atmosphere. Some evenings feature the best jazz, Latin, Corsican music and DJ sets for you to enjoy. All in all, you’ll have plenty to admire, but also plenty to taste!
Getting there: Tour de Nonza 20217 Nonza – 04 95 38 55 26
– A Casaiola, for a meal with your feet in the water: (restaurant with terrace on stilts).A quaint villa, blue shutters, a pine tree, a shady courtyard, a terrace overlooking the beach, facing the sea: a true gem. The menu is extremely tempting and varied: starters, fish, mussels, meat, pizza.
Salmon crumble with Brocciu cheese and basil and a scallop skewer, passion butter: TO DIE FOR. It’s a pleasure to try dishes with a new twist. For the dessert, the choice is just as difficult: three-chocolate crisp, peach and raspberry vacherin with peach compote.
Call in advance for the opening hours.
Getting there: Marine de Sisco – Cap Corse 04 95 35 21 50
– Le Pirate in Erbalungafor a gourmet meal.The restaurant is in the heart of the fishing village, on the small harbour. An ideal spot for sharing a special time with friends over an elegant table with outstanding cuisine. The menu features flavours from both land and sea.
Getting there: Le port 20222 Erbalunga – 04 95 33 24 20
– U Scalu in Macinaggio for a meal in a family setting. Share a pleasurable moment with family or friends on the restaurant’s delightful terrace, overlooking the harbour, and enjoy refined European cuisine (French, Italian and Mediterranean specialities) with meticulously prepared gourmet platters (fresh and local ingredients).
Open 7 days a week, all year round without exception
Getting there: Port de plaisance – Macinaggio – 04 95 35 42 79
How to visit Cap Corse
The best option to visit this part of the island is to explore the winding roads of the headland by car! A magical view awaits you all along the way as the roads run parallel to the mountainside, around the cornice and along the coastline. Venture to places off the beaten track and go on adventures: secret coves, charming villages… Expect to make many stops to admire the beautiful landscapes on offer. Just take your time and enjoy the experience.
Conclusion
Whether you’re looking for relaxation or adventure, Cap Corse is the ideal place for your holiday. Whether following the coastline or trekking through the mountains, this unspoilt region of the island will amaze you with its rich heritage and breathtakingly wild landscapes.
A spiritual and exceptional natural setting, I’ve always felt a deep connection with the four elements and a certain magic that cannot be put into words. You have to experience it to understand it. So, are you ready for the Cap Corse experience?
Think you know the most beautiful beaches in Corsica? You may have read my previous post on this subject. But did you know that there are still wild beaches in Corsica?
They are not as easy to reach, there may be no beach bar or parking area, and far less people. So you will have to bring your picnic with you, your icebox with cool water, put on a hat, good footwear, and you’re off!
Some can be reached after walking for a bit, other ones can only be reached by boat (suddenly, more people!) But when you get out of the water in these beaches, all you will see is the natural world around you.
The wild beaches of Haute-Corse
The beaches in the Agriates desert
The beaches in the Agriates desert are all wild. They can be reached by ferry, which means they are popular. However, I cannot fail to mention them, even if there’s more people – they are always less crowded than the famous Porto-Vecchio beaches! And the area is still wild and idyllic.
Saleccia
You can reach Saleccia on a 4×4 after driving down a 15 km track – that’s about a 45-minute trip. The track starts at Casta, just after the Relais at Saleccia.
U Paradisu campground is near the beach, fully integrated with the surrounding area. It’s a good place to spend a few days away from it all. But check if there are any vacancies before travelling for 45 minutes along a track!
Lodu
You can reach Lodu beach on the St-Florent ferry. It’s also called Loto or Lotu. (Note: in Haute-Corse, “t” is pronounced “d” and “u” is not pronounced, but it’s not pronounced at the end of the word. But in Ajaccio, “t” is pronounced “t”, and “u” is pronounced!)
To fully enjoy this idyllic location, I recommend taking the first Popeye ferry at 9 am. Then you will have the chance to see this white-sand beach when there’s still no one there, and be the first to disembark, like Robinson arriving at his island.
Ghignu
You can reach Ghignu taking the Malfacu track, and then walking for a bit less than 5 km (about 1 hour). A wonderful beach of white sand and turquoise water.
Malfacu
One of the options to get to Malfacu is to drive along the track from Vezzu hill on a 4×4 car. It will take you more than an hour to cover these 13 km. The other options are to walk from Saleccia or from L’Ostriconi, but it’s a rather long trip – even longer when the weather’s hot!
L’Ostriconi
This wild beach in the Agriates desert can be reached through a path from the old Ile Rousse route. This 800 m long beach can be dangerous when the weather is bad because of the strong currents, so avoid swimming too far from the strand.
The wild beaches at Cap Corse
Barcaggio beach
This beautiful beach, located at the north end of Corsica, Cap Corse, can be reached from Barcaggio village.
You will find a parking area that is for pay during the summer. From there, just walk for about fifteen minutes to discover this wonderful beach. Across from it is a little island on which stands the northernmost lighthouse in Corsica.
A few years ago, I found plenty of Bolma rugosa, a small shell that’s made in Corsica.
Des Iles beach
The beach at the Finocchiarola islands at Cap Corse is the first beach that can be reached from Tamarone bay through the douaniers route. It takes 20 minutes walking to get there. For those who have a 4×4 vehicle, you can also take a track.
The beach is almost deserted and has a splendid view of the Finocchiarola island, a natural reserve.
Like most unspoilt wild beaches, there is a bed of Posidonia, an underwater flower that is often taken for seaweed.
The wild beaches of South Corsica
Near Piana
Ficaghjola
You walk down to this little cover by a path from the Hotel des Roches Rouges outside Piana. You need to walk for 3 km to reach this little gem.
Cross Mezzanu brook, then keep walking along its bank down to the beach. On the way there, don’t forget to admire the view of the Gulf of Porto and the Piana cliffs.
You will be rewarded by a beach of fine sand and crystal-clear water at the end of this walk.
Arone beach
Arona beach, the only large beach in Piana, monitored in the summer, is nonetheless a wild beach. You can get there by car (and by boat).
From Piana village, take the D824 between the church and the supermarket. Drive for 12 km for about 20 minutes, to reach this superb white sand beach.
For gourmets, there are several restaurants near the beach, but also a campground and tourist apartments.
The wild beaches at Ajaccio
Lava Gulf
To the north of Ajaccio, between Capu di Fenu and Pelusella point, Lava Gulf is a very pleasant, and very long, beach. This beach is maintained by the city of Ajaccio and is monitored in the summer.
You can drive there by road D381, at the end of about 9 km.
The sunset to the west is gorgeous, so make sure to pack an evening picnic.
Cape Feno
This wild beach is also near Ajaccio. Locals love it, but so do surfers, as the wind and the waves are often perfect for them.
Take the D111B from the road from Vitulo to Ajaccio.
This beach, in a wild area, is gorgeous, but don’t forget to keep an eye out for the children, as there can always be waves and strong currents in the sea.
Near Propriano
Campomoro
Campomoro beach stretches out for more than 2 km in a nature reserve.
You can get there by driving along the D121 when you leave Propriano headed to Sartène.
Roccapina
In the south end, you will find Roccapina beach, at the foot of the famous Roccapina Lion.
The beach can be reached by car. There’s a great campground and bungalows a few hundred metres before you get to the beach.
The beach is curved, as it’s located in an inlet, and it’s very pleasant, with a gorgeous view wherever you look. The water is so turquoise that it looks like a swimming pool!
The wild beaches near Bonifacio
Stagnolu beach
Not far from Tunnara, Stagnolu beach is a gorgeous wild beach with 300 metres of sand. 10 km from Bonifacio, take the T40 then the D358 towards Tonnara, and then a track.
Behind you, you will find white sand dunes and the mountains. Bear in mind that, even though it’s a family beach, a small part of the beach is a nudist area.
Balistra
This beach of fine sand and turquoise water brings to mind the Caribbean! 10 km from Bonifacio, with the pond that bears its name in the background, this beach is a mecca for kite surfers.
Take the T40 towards Porto Vecchio, then, after about 8 km, take a road to the right and keep driving for about 2 km until you reach Balistra beach. There’s a free parking area and the beach is monitored in the summer.
Unspoilt Corsica
As you can see, even though Corsica is a tourist destination, there are still unspoilt, wild areas. This is because certain natural areas are protected by the authorities – it is for us now to protect these precious places.
Corsica is known for its dreamy beaches, but there are also superb natural pools.
Article updated on 6/08/2024
The mountains on the island are the source of many rivers that reach the sea among rocks. Nature, being generous, offers us magnificent natural water spots. The water is certainly cooler than the Mediterranean, that is, very cold in the spring, when the snows melt, but when it starts getting hot in the summer, it’s a great way to cool down.
In every river in Corsica there is a river where children swim all summer long. In fact, when the weather is warm, Corsicans prefer rivers to the beach.
These are some of the most beautiful natural pools in Corsica.
La Solenzara
This is my favourite, as it’s very easy to access and just above us: you can see the majestic Aiguilles de Bavella from there.
To get there, take the D268 towards Bavella. Because the road runs along the Solenzara river, you can choose the spot you like. There are little beaches in some areas where you can sit down comfortably under a sun umbrella.
In certain places you can find rocks to jump from, so pick the one that best suits you.
La Restonica
Restonica valley, just above Corte, in central Corsica, is about twenty kilometres long. This beautiful valley has many natural pools and waterfalls.
At this height, I should warn you, the water is very cold, around 12°! Just tell yourself it’s great to get the blood flowing. To reach it, take the D623 south of Corte.
Fango valley
This valley is a bit less crowded because it’s less easy to access, which is even better! Go to Galéria, south of Calvi, and take the D351.
The source of Fango river is as the heart of Capu Tafunatu, the pierced mountain. This year is riddled with little ponds that make nice natural pools in the middle of the pink granite rocks. Moreover, the water is at an ideal temperature to plunge in!
Capu Tafunatu
Manganellu river
Manganellu river crosses the village of Vivario and plunges into the Vecchio. To reach it, walk along the GR20 track for a while, specifically stretch 8 from Petra Piana to l’Onda. It’s an easy walk along a rather large path in the midst of the pine trees. Take care to stay on GR20 – if you go along the ridges path, you won’t be able to swim today! If you don’t feel like walking, you can drive, taking the D23 at Tattone.
The pine trees around these natural pools contrast with the colour of the water. Feast your eyes.
Aïtone forest
I adore Aïtone forest all year round! At the heart of these 4000 hectares, you will find some hidden natural pools and waterfalls. The water is never warmer than 15° even in mid-August, but the landscape is so stunning and soothing that no one will complain! You can walk there from Evisa village, through a chestnut forest. You will find your reward after walking for some 45 minutes.
For those who are not that fond of sport, you can drive there. Just take the D84 and park at Belvédère Mare in Mare Nord.
If you are hungry in the evening, I recommend going up to Castel di Vergio Hotel, named after the hill. They serve a unique menu including a delicious Corsican soup, huge, high quality steak, and Fiadone for dessert. Everything is homemade, and there is a view of Monte Cinto, the highest peak in Corsica.
The Cavu natural pools
Cavu river is in the South of Corsica, a few kilometres to the North of Porto-Vecchio. These are some of the many natural pools in this river. To get there, take then D1968A at Sainte Lucie de Porto-Vecchio, towards Taglio Rosso.
The first one is a gorgeous pool behind U Paesu restaurant at Tagliu Rossu. Walk upriver to find other spots not far from there. Further up, you will find a paid parking area (EUR 5), with beautiful pools, and a bit farther, another spot called “Piscini di Micu”.
I’ve been saving the best for last: the most beautiful natural pools are the ones near the Les 3 Piscines restaurant.
Criviscia
Drive towards Zonza village in l’Alta Rocca to discover the Criviscia brook. Them go towards Quenza, and when you reach Criviscia bridge, find a place to park (which is not easy!)
From the bridge, you can see the brook and hear the sound of the waterfall. The river wends its way through pine trees and oaks, and you can splash in the very cool water from the mountains. If you continue to go upriver, you’ll reach a canyon with rocks to jump from.
Purcaraccia waterfall
I have already talked about trekking in Corsica, which I encourage you to do – it’s often while trekking that you will discover lovely waterfalls and natural pools.
I couldn’t fail to mention one of the most beautiful ponds on the island. You should be aware that it’s often crowded, you I would get there early, to be among the first to experience the magic of the area.
You will need good walking shoes, but once you get there, you will find a corner of paradise!
Cascade des Anglais waterfall
The Cascade des Anglais waterfalls can be reached from Vizzavona hill. This gorgeous waterfall is at an altitude of 1130 m, so it’s rather cool up there, as is the water!
To get there, you’ll have to walk for a while along the GR20. From the Vizzavona parking area, take the forest route towards the ruins. It’s a 30 to 35-minute walk, quite easy, but a bit uphill.
You can also get there from Vizzavona train station. The path is well marked and shaded, and takes about 1h30. The walk is really worth it, and the temperature is always nice.
A nice alternative to the sea
Wherever you stay in Corsica, you will find at least one natural pool near. You can also go canyoning down these rivers, which are very safe.
If you feel like taking a break from the beach and getting some cool air, don’t miss beautiful inland Corsica.
And if you are looking for more ideas for your Corsica vacation, don’t miss all our articles on experiences, gastronomy and things to see around Ajaccio and Bastia.
Why not discover Corsica, the “Ile de Beauté” (The Island of Beauty), through hiking? There are all kinds of hikes in Corsica, from the world-famous GR20 to kid-friendly ones. Let me tell you about hikes I have done and loved.
Truth be told, I’m not a great sportswoman and I love easy hikes, when I can take the time to take videos and photos, or just LOOK AROUND! I’m always at the back of the group, but I always have the most photos!
Hikes in Piana
From the Dog’s Head to the Fortified Castle
I have wonderful memories of this hike, because it was the first weekend our restrictions were lifted after the 2020 lockdown. Being outdoors, under the blue sky, was wonderful, and we were practically on our own in the rocky inlets of Piana.
This is a short hike, a one-hour round trip, which is suitable for children. The hike starts in an oak forest, with granite boulders smoothed down by time and erosion.
The view over the Bay of Porto at the start is breath-taking. This view of the Mediterranean after 2 months in lockdown was like a “Get out of Jail Free” card!
I thought I found a fortified castle, but in fact it’s an impressive block of granite resembling one. Another rock looks like a dog’s head. In Piana, every rock looks like something else.
Calanche and Piana forest
This hike starts from Piana stadium, outside the village.
To reach this beautiful view and admire the rocky inlets from high up,you’ll have to climb. The incline is 600m. The path is very well delimited, between undergrowth and sunny areas.
When you come back, I recommend going down towards Roches bleues. This route goes into the forest: in the summer, you will be in the shade, but in January you may encounter some ice! What’s interesting about this path is the main views of the rocky inlets you will find.
The round trip is 9km, and takes between 4.5 to 5 hours.
The old mule path
Starting again at the stadium, but from the crossroads, go ahead rather than climbing to the right.
In the 19th century, Piana locals who wanted to go to Porto took this path, as the route between the inletsdid not exist. The path is paved and buttressed by drywall. At the top, you will be rewarded with a superb view.
This is an easy hike, about an hour and a half long, with a 250m incline.
We completed these two hikes on the same day, last January, the first going down to the inletsat Roches Bleues, and then taking the mule path on our way back. It’s very doable.
Hikes in Vergio
Nino Lake
Nino Lake is earned, and here I’m talking to an expert audience. I did this hike in September a few years ago, but it was tough as the incline is 690m!
When you leave the Poppaghia forest house, you follow a path through the forest that gently goes up around the Orsu Longu ridge. It was then I thought that it wasn’t so hard after all… But then there’s more forest that shades you, and a quite steep slope with stones that slip under your feet and make it hard to get through. Experienced GR20 hikers won’t bat an eyelid, but if you are a novice, get ready to suffer!
Discovering a glacial lake and its pozzines (pools) is worth the effort.
For me, it’s doable (if I’ve done it, anyone can), taking your time and departing early to have a picnic by the lake. For these 10km, allow some 5 or 6 hours for the round trip. This hike may be considered difficult.
A bit of the GR20
There are some easy hikes at the level of the Castel Vergio hotel. Starting with the hotel behind you and to your left, you can start several routes. Some time ago, I did a bit of the GR20 hike towards Nino Lake – it’s easy and specially very pleasant, as the path is well delimited and follows the ridges.
HIKES IN THE Agriates DESERT
Here are several nice hikes you can do following the routes that the customs officials used to take when looking for smugglers.
You can start your hike from St-Florent and La Roya beach, or take the shuttle to Lodu or Saleccia beaches.
You can go to Ostriconi beach if you like to walk: it takes some ten hours from Saleccia and some 30km one way.
I was less ambitious, and walked from Saleccia beach to Ghignu beach. It’s a beautiful walk, 11km as a round trip, by the sea, with several idyllic coves where you can take a swim to cool down.
This hike, which has hardly any incline, is suitable for everyone. You can smell the fragrances of the Corsican maquis, the famous Corsican immortelle flowers, but in the autumn, you will find arbutus and myrtle. No shade here, so don’t forget your hat!
In November, we stopped at Trave beach, where we took a spuntinu (a picnic in Corsican) in the shade of an old sheep pen that resembles Robinson Crusoe’s hut. We were true Robinsons, alone in the world, with the infinite turquoise sea in front of us!
Hikes near Ajaccio
The Ridge route
This hike is a beautiful walk frequented by Ajaccio locals. It is suitable for everyone, including as a family walk.
You walk high above the town, finding yourself in the middle of cacti, to cross a more arid area. The starting point is Bois des Anglais.
The view of the town and bay of Ajaccio town is amazing. As you go on, you will find the route of the Sanguinaires. Follow the ridges to have a view of the entire Bay of Ajaccio.
You can then turn back and go down to the town again, or continue to La Parata.
Spring is the best time of year to do this hike as it is not too hot yet. In the summer, it’s best to do it at the end of the day, just do the first part, and watch the glorious sunset on the Sanguinaires Islands. You will find then that their name comes from their tawny hues at the end of the day.
From La Parata to the Sanguinaires it’s slightly over 11km as a round trip, and a 550m incline.
Coti Chiavari prison
I have done this hike to Coti Chiavari prison, to the south of the Bay of Ajaccio, in May, and temperatures were just right. It’s not very difficult, and you can take the children with you.
You start at Mare e Sole. Follow the myrtle path through a forest of cork trees. You will cross a small brook, where you’ll see the ruins of an old oil mill.
Then you will reach a larger, flat path, and have a glorious view of the silvery beach. Then take the route flanked by eucalypt trees that goes up to the prison. On the way there, you will find the remains of the prison cemetery, with some tombs of past convicts.
At the top of the track, turn left to reach an esplanade (look out for very tall pine trees), from which you will have an amazing view of the entire Bay of Ajaccio. If you have taken the path across the ridges, you will find yourself facing the other side of the Bay!
Hike at Alta Rocca
Piscia di Gallu waterfall
This last hike goes up to Alta Rocca, near Ospédale Lake. The incline is very slight, 110m, and the round trip is 4.6k, about 1h40.
You reach it from the (paid) parking area about 1km to the north of the lake.
On the way, you will come across a ford (you cross through the rocks), and at the top, you will find an amazing balancing stone. But, above all, a stunning view of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
During the first part of the hike, you will walk under the shade of Lariccio pines but then it’s all rocks in the sun. The end of the route requires some technical skill, as the ground is covered in pebbles as well as a tangled roots, so watch where you step! Finally, you will reach this wonderful waterfall. Of course, in the autumn it’s much less impressive!
Hiking in Corsica
Hiking is a great way to discover the Island of Beauty. This mountainous island offers very different landscapes, and particularly the heights to properly admire them.
And don’t forget to put on sun cream, take enough water, and wear a cap!
When visiting Haute-Corse, your best bet is to come to Bastia by plane. With this seven-day itinerary idea, you won’t miss any of the gems that this part of Corsica has to offer.
But first, I need to clarify something: even though we refer to ‘Southern Corsica’, we NEVER say ‘Northern Corsica’. Basically, Corsica comprises two départements, which are Corse du Sud (Southern Corsica), and Haute-Corse (Upper Corsica).
After getting you daydreaming about Corsica’s most idyllic beaches, I’m back with an idea for an itinerary to help you discover Haute-Corse by way of its three iconic micro-regions: Cap Corse, Balagne and Castagniccia. You can either follow this week-long program whilst moving from place to place, or you can find somewhere to sleep in Bastia during your stay. But watch out – the distances involved may not be long, but the journeys themselves will take you a good while.
Bastia
Bastia is a subprefecture of Corsica with 44,000 residents, which you can explore on foot. Whereas Ajaccio feels more like the Côte d’Azur, this Italy-facing town is reminiscent of Tuscany. So what exactly is there to see in Bastia? Let me tell you about some of my favourite places.
La place Saint Nicolas(Saint Nicolas Square): this 300-by-90-metre square is one of the largest in Europe. Bordered with terraces and under the shade of the plane trees, here you’ll find the locals relaxing with their families or friends every day of the week.
La place du Marché(Market Square): Located between La Place Saint Nicolas and Vieux Port (or the Old Port), there’s a village-like quality to this part of town. Morning is the time to visit!
La Citadelle (The Citadel): Bastia’s Citadel, which was restored a few years ago, is steeped in history. Lose yourself in its narrow streets and soak up the atmosphere. In fact, the Citadel is where the name Bastia comes from, as the name means ‘fortress’.
Le Palais des Gouverneurs(The Palace of Governors): Le Palais des Gouverneurs was constructed right in the very heart of the Citadel, in Place du Donjon (Donjon square). Here, you’ll find magnificent collections of Baroque art.
Le Jardin Romieu(Romieu Garden): These terraced gardens provide an enchanting view as you head back down to Vieux Port. There’s a magnificent double staircase here, perfect for a break in the shade.
Le vieux port(The Old Port): This place is treasured by the locals, who come here and eat on the terraces in the afternoon or the evening, all year round. This is another way to appreciate the Citadel.
L’ église Saint Jean Baptiste(Saint John the Baptist Church): This is the biggest church in Corsica and, rather uniquely, it has two steeples.
Try an ice cream from Raugi: If there’s one thing you need to do, you absolutely must get an ice cream from Raugi, the master ice-cream parlour which has been run by the same family for generations. It’s a guaranteed moment of pure happiness.
Cap Corse
It’s fifty kilometres from Bastia to Macinaggio, at the end of Cap Corse, and the journey will take you at least an hour. It’s on the side of a mountain along a coastal road, so take your time (and a break or two).
Erbalunga: Finding the time to visit this small village is a must, to be able to admire both the Genoise tower at its heart and the sea view visible from every bend of its narrow streets. This is where Antoine de Saint Exupéry lived during his final mission.
Rogliano: The raised location of this village means it has been a strategic location since Antiquity. From here, you can keep an eye on the coasts and look out for any potential invaders. Panoramic views aside, you can also visit the Baroque church that hosted Empress Eugénie in 1869.
Barcaggio: It’s at the end of the earth, or at least, at one of Corsica’s extremities. What I’m talking about is a small fishing village facing the island of Giraglia, which sports a lighthouse.
Le Moulin Mattei(The Mattei Windmill): Take a detour towards Col Serra (Serra Pass) to get to this windmill, located at an altitude of 365 metres. You’ll get a 360° view, and if there’s not too much sea mist, you might be able to see the Italian coastline.
Canelle: This is a small village untouched by time where you can take in the breath-taking view overlooking Centuri. Wander the petite paved streets on foot, which will lead you to a wash house built into the shale wall.
Centuri: This is a romantic fishing village so if you fancy some langoustine, this is the place to get it. It’ll be freshly caught, and the scenery will make it even more enjoyable!
Nonza: Best known for its black sand beach, Nonza is also one of Cap Corse’s most beautiful villages. Why is the sand that colour? It’s just the result of ‘harmless’ waste from the asbestos factory that operated in Canari until 1965.
Saint-Florent
This little village, pinned between Cap Corse and The Agriates Desert, has a distinctive atmosphere. You’ll need a whole night and a day to appreciate it to its fullest – Saint-Florent is Corsica’s own little Saint-Tropez.
Some of Corsica’s most beautiful beaches can be found in the Agriates Desert. Discover the beaches of Lodu or Saleccia, accessible by taking the passenger ship from Saint-Florent or renting a 4×4. These wild beaches, with their turquoise water, white sand, and surrounding scrubland would not look out of place in the Caribbean.
In the evening, head to Saint-Florent’s Citadel to watch the sunset. From there, make the most of the village by strolling around its small streets or along by the yachts and finally, try some fish at Restaurant l’Olivier in the port.
Balagne
To get from Saint-Florent to Ile Rousse in Balagne, you’ll need to take the road through the Agriates Desert. It’s not a sandy desert but rather an arid scrubland. The long road follows the coastline and has a breath-taking view overlooking the Mediterranean.
Ile Rousse is a village with plenty of soul, buzzing even in winter, with a superb beach in the centre of town as an added bonus. Why not take the beach train to discover the coasts of Balagne, from Ile Rousse to Calvi?
Corsica has beautiful beaches, of course, but you can’t experience Balagne to the fullest without visiting its villages. Visit Santa Reparata di Balagna, Feliceto, Speloncato, Occhiatana and Belgodere to familiarise yourself with these beautiful, ornate villages.
You’ll have an unparalleled view of the coast and the Mediterranean from these villages nestled amongst the olive trees. Don’t miss Balagne’s diverse range of artisans whilst there.
Castagniccia
From Balagne, I recommend taking the road from Belgodere to Ponte-Leccia, but take the RT301 instead of the main road. In Ponte-Leccia, head right towards Bastia just after the Golo bridge (the Corsican ‘river’) for a complete change of scenery.
Castagniccia has long been the breadbasket of Corsica. This region, covered in chestnut trees, has fed families for generations. It also used to be Corsica’s most populated region.
Morosaglia: Morosaglia is the birth village of Pasquale Paoli, Babbu di a patria (the father of the homeland) who wrote the Corsican Constitution in November 1755. This constitution gave women the right to vote almost two centuries before France’s did! It also served as a model for the American Constitution. Here you can visit his birth house, which has been transformed into a museum.
La Porta: This is the largest village of Castagniccia. Its 17th-Century Baroque church sees plenty of footfall, and there are a number of works of art for you to discover here. The bell tower of the Saint John the Baptist church is 45 metres tall. Walking around the village, you’ll find multiple fountains in the piazzetta (little squares), and each one has the head of a lion.
Rapaggio: Do you remember that scene in the film “The Corsican File” when Christian Clavier orders a Perrier and ends up getting an Orezza? This naturally-carbonated and very fine water comes from Rapaggio. You can pay a virtual visit to the source of Orezza’s water in the shop.
Castagniccia is a region for green tourism. There are hiking trails and waterfalls, but above all, you’ll find some of Corsica’s culinary specialities: charcuterie, cheeses, migliacci, veal with olives, fiadone… The region is not short of guest houses and hostels.
Back to Bastia
We’re back on Corsica’s east coast, on what is referred to as the Oriental Coast, bordered by the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Before you head back to the airport, don’t miss the chance to visit Canonica Cathedral, and the Mariana Archaeological Site and its museum just next door.
To get the most out of this Haute-Corse itinerary, I suggest spending a night in Bastia, two nights in Saint-Florent, two nights in Balagne, and one or two nights in Castagniccia. (You could swap this second night for a night in Cap Corse.) You could also discover all of these micro-regions by going on daytrips from Bastia, if you’ve opted to stay in the same place for a week.
Corsica has a very diverse range of landscapes and reliefs. Each micro-region has its own characteristics, and the houses are very different from one village to the next. Join me in a few weeks to discover Southern Corsica…
