Destination: Castellón

When July arrives and the Mediterranean coast is filled with parasols, Castellón’s refreshing inland secrets beckon.

Just over an hour from the coast, the province’s interior swaps sand for limestone, waves for the murmuring of rivers, and beach bars for quiet villages where summer moves at a different pace. You can still come here in a swimsuit, but the bathing water is fresh: there are natural pools, springs, canyons, riverside paths and mountain landscapes that seem designed to cool you down.

The star attraction of this getaway is Montanejos, located in the Alto Mijares region. It is a place that appeals to both travellers looking for an easy swim and those who prefer to earn it by walking. The village overlooks the River Mijares, nestled between rocky walls and pine-covered hills, with a landscape blending thermal waters, nature and adventure. In summer, when the heat becomes unbearable, its surroundings provide the perfect alternative to the province’s busiest beaches.

Montanejos, the most coveted inland swim

The best-known image of Montanejos is the Fuente de los Baños, a natural pool of clear water surrounded by rock walls where the river creates turquoise backwaters. Its fame is no coincidence. The spring emerges at a constant temperature of around 25°C, making it pleasant to bathe there for much of the year. Its flow also helps to feed the course of the Mijares river.

Arriving here in the middle of summer feels like a small ritual. First, there is the winding mountain road; then, the spa town; and finally, the river at the bottom of the valley, which seems to beckon you. The Fuente de los Baños is not strictly a wild river beach, but a managed natural site with designated rest areas and rules designed to protect the environment, which receives many visitors. This is precisely why it is worth planning your visit properly.

The reward is immediate. The water, which is neither cold nor hot, wraps around the body with an unexpected softness. The rocks act as a natural solarium, the trees provide shade in places and the sound of the river drowns out the background noise of the city.

Montanejos is an ideal base because it allows you to tailor your getaway to all types of traveller. Those looking for a simple itinerary can stick to the Fuente de los Baños and a stroll through the village centre. Those who want a more active experience can follow the course of the Mijares River, head towards the narrows or book a guided activity. Anyone after a slower-paced weekend can combine swimming with visiting nearby villages such as Cirat, Puebla de Arenoso, Montán or Arañuel, small places where the landscape still sets the rhythm.

Easy routes by the water

One of Montanejos’ great attractions is that you can combine bathing with hiking trails of varying intensity. For a taster, the best option is to walk the banks of the Mijares River, stopping at viewpoints and sections where the landscape opens up between the rock walls. The area around the Fuente de los Baños is ideal for gentle walks, particularly early in the morning or at sunset, when the light is softer and the heat has eased off.

Among the best-known routes is Los Estrechos, a walk which helps you to better understand the power of the river and the area’s geology. Here, the Mijares winds its way through gorges, cliffs and stone curves, creating a landscape that will surprise anyone who is only familiar with Castellón’s coastline. There is no need to make it a major expedition: just choose a section, take water with you, protect yourself from the sun, and avoid the midday heat.

Another option for those who are used to walking further is to visit the Barranco de la Maimona, an area closely associated with hiking, climbing and canyoning. Its vertical walls and riverside vegetation reveal Montanejos’ more rugged side. However, in summer, prudence is essential: routes through the ravines require up-to-date information, suitable footwear and, in some cases, professional guidance. The nature here is not just decorative; it must be understood and respected.

Adventure on the River Mijares

For those seeking an adrenaline rush, Montanejos is also one of the province’s leading destinations for active tourism. The River Mijares and the area around the Arenoso reservoir offer opportunities to practise activities such as rafting, kayaking, canyoning, via ferrata climbing and more, with specialised companies. The local offering includes water and mountain activities at various levels of difficulty, which require advance booking for guided experiences.

Gentle rafting is a great way to experience the river up close, particularly for those seeking an accessible and shared experience. Kayaking, by contrast, allows you to take in the scenery at a more relaxed pace, particularly in areas of calm water. Canyoning is ideal for more adventurous travellers, provided qualified guides and the right equipment are used.

Villages to extend the getaway

The Alto Mijares cannot be fully appreciated from Montanejos alone. This region comprises small inland municipalities where life moves at a slower pace and the landscape is more rural. Cirat, the district capital, has a mountain village atmosphere that makes you want to stop for lunch or a drink after spending the morning by the river. Puebla de Arenoso, located beside the reservoir, opens the door to broader landscapes of dammed water, hills and panoramic roads. Montán, Arañuel and Fuentes de Ayódar are part of a constellation of villages where everyday life revolves around springs, ravines and paths.

The gastronomy perfectly complements this kind of getaway. After a swim, you’ll want simple yet hearty dishes such as grilled meats, cured sausages, local olive oil, rice dishes from the region, seasonal vegetables and traditional desserts. In summer, the best plan is to book a table, order local cuisine and adapt to the village timetable, rather than the other way around.

Tips for enjoying your visit without leaving a trace

Montanejos has become much more popular, so it’s important to travel with a sense of responsibility. Before setting off, it is worth checking the official information from the town council regarding access, prices, dates with regulated capacity, and the rules for using the site. Access may be organised in a specific way at certain times, and the rules regarding food, pets, bathing equipment and camping items are designed to protect this very sensitive natural area.

It is also advisable to arrive early, particularly at weekends and during the hottest months. Parking is easier, it is less hot and you can enjoy the water before the biggest crowds arrive in the first hours of the day. Water shoes are almost essential as the rocks can be slippery, and they make entering the river much more comfortable. Sun cream, a cap, drinking water and a bag to carry away all your rubbish complete the basic kit.

Castellón in freshwater mode

Escaping to Montanejos and the Alto Mijares in summer reveals that Castellón offers many ways to cool down. Of course, there is the Mediterranean, with its bright beaches and blue horizon. But there is also the inland area of Castellón, with its warm rivers, hidden pools, stone canyons and villages where lunch stretches on in the shade.

Here, summer is measured not by the distance to the seashore, but by the feeling of immersing your feet in a river after a walk, by the coolness rising from the water, and by the silence that can only be found when the road leaves the coast behind. In Montanejos, you can experience Castellón in a swimsuit, but also with hiking boots and water shoes, and with the desire to take in the landscape slowly.

Sometimes, all it takes is leaving the motorway behind, turning onto secondary roads and accepting that time — for once — is of no consequence. That’s how this route through the interior of Castellón begins.

A spring getaway where the landscape opens up into unexpected shades of green and villages that seem suspended between the mountains. Because beyond well-known destinations such as Peñíscola or Morella, there is another province: one that is quieter and more intimate. That of Alto Palancia, a comarca that in spring becomes the perfect setting for a slow, photogenic and deeply authentic escape.

What to Do in Alto Palancia: Nature, Villages and Local Flavours

Between the mountain ranges of the Sierra Calderona and the Sierra de Espadán, Alto Palancia unfolds a landscape that invites you to move slowly and observe closely. This inland comarca is, above all, a destination for those who enjoy rural tourism in its most authentic form: walks through Mediterranean forests, cycling routes, historic villages and a gastronomy deeply connected to the land.

The Palancia River acts as the thread that ties the landscape together, creating fertile valleys and unexpected corners where spring expresses itself with a flourish. Around it, a network of trails allows you to discover places as varied as the — perfect for cycling —, the spectacular Salto de la Novia waterfall or the natural viewpoints of Jérica, such as Vuelta de la Hoz. For those seeking more challenging routes, places like Azuébar offer climbs to castles and striking rock formations, while in Almedíjar the paths lead into cork oak forests rich in history.

But Alto Palancia is not only about nature. Its villages — from Segorbe, with its historic centre declared a Site of Cultural Interest, to Jérica or Caudiel — preserve a discreet yet characterful heritage: Mudéjar bell towers, traditional washhouses, fountains and narrow streets that invite you to wander aimlessly.

And, as on any good trip, the discovery continues at the table. Olive oils, artisan cheeses, seasonal cherries or local sweets such as the pastel jericano are part of a simple and flavourful cuisine that reflects the rhythm and identity of this land.

Exploring Alto Palancia is, ultimately, about letting yourself be guided by a series of small actions: walking, cycling, stopping in a village, sitting down to eat. And understanding that here, rather than seeking major landmarks, enjoying the journey is what matters.

Villages with Soul: Jérica, Viver, Caudiel

Alto Palancia is a string of small villages that invite you to take your time. Among them, Jérica stands out for its unmistakable silhouette, dominated by its Mudéjar tower, visible from afar. Its steep streets and history make it an essential stop.

Viver offers a more open landscape, surrounded by fields and orchards that burst into colour in spring. It is a great place to stroll and experience the unhurried pace of rural life.

Caudiel, meanwhile, combines heritage and nature, with nearby trails and quiet corners where time seems to stand still. Here, more than doing, it is about simply being. Finally, don’t forget to stop in Bejís, a mountain village located at around 800 metres above sea level, set among ranges that reinforce the feeling of isolation.

Local Flavours and Charming Accommodation

Your experience of Alto Palancia would not be complete without taking time to enjoy its gastronomy. In villages such as Jérica or Viver, small family-run restaurants like Masia del Cristo offer traditional cuisine: stews, grilled meats and seasonal produce.

For accommodation, the best option is rural houses and quaint little lodgings scattered throughout the comarca. Welcoming spaces, often set in restored old houses, where tranquillity is part of the experience.

In spring, when the landscape blooms and the pace slows down, the Alto Palancia comarca becomes the perfect destination for those looking for something more than just a trip: a peaceful break.

In an unexpected corner of the Mediterranean, where the blue sea can be glimpsed amid reddish ridges and rolling pine forests, lies a paradise that, although it may seem like a desert, is not one.  

The Desert de les Palmes Nature Reserve, just a few minutes from Castellón and Benicàssim, offers so much more than just a network of trails. It’s a refuge for the soul, a sanctuary of nature, history and spirituality, inviting you to disconnect… or reconnect, as you wish.

Spanning almost 3,200 hectares, this park is one of those places that radiates a special energy. Here, the paths not only lead you from one place to another, but also inward. Join us on a step-by-step, stone-by-stone tour of this magical place to find out why it should be on your next getaway list.

A “desert” that is not arid, but sacred

The first thing that strikes you about the Desert de les Palmes is its name: it isn’t actually a desert in the climatic sense of the word. The word “desert” refers to the spiritual retreats initiated here by Carmelite monks in the 17^th century. They came seeking solitude, silence and spiritual elevation, and they found it in these serene mountains covered in palm trees (“palmes”), which defy any clichés about the aridity of the Mediterranean.

Even today, the ruins of the old Carmelite convent, destroyed by an earthquake in 1783, and the new monastery —still used by the order— preserve this spirit. You may encounter silent visitors walking respectfully as if the history of the place were whispering to them through the stone walls and cypress trees.

Hiking trails for body and mind

One thing that really defines the Desert de les Palmes is its network of trails. There are routes for all levels, but they all have one thing in common: breathtaking views and a calming atmosphere.

• The route to the Bartolo peak (729 m) is undoubtedly the most emblematic. Pico Bartolo, crowned by a huge antenna and a small hermitage, is the park’s highest point. From there, on clear days, you can see the sea, the Columbretes Islands, the Cape of Oropesa and, inland, the Sierra de Espadán. The climb is not difficult, but you have to be reasonably fit. You can start from the Collado de la Mola, in Benicàssim, or from the Old Desert. The rewards are along the way: butterflies, mastic trees, ferns, and in spring, a symphony of wildflowers.

• The Senda de les Santes leads from the park to the sea, crossing ravines and pine forests to reach the hermitage of Les Santes, a hidden gem among cork oaks. This route is ideal if you are looking for tranquillity away from busy routes. It’s also perfect for picnics in an almost mystical environment.
• Those who prefer gentler walks can explore the ruins of a medieval fortification on the path to Castell de Montornés, surrounded by the scents of thyme and rosemary. A perfect plan at sunset.

Spirituality between stones and sky

You don’t have to be religious to sense the spiritual energy of the Desert de les Palmes. The silence, the way the light filters through the pines and the sound of the wind rustling through the leaves all invite us to stop, look and breathe. Many hikers say they feel “renewed” after walking here. Could it be the pure air, the landscape, or something else?

The Carmelite monks chose this secluded spot because they believed that nature offered the best opportunity to experience transcendence. That philosophy is still alive in every corner of the park today. Some visitors walk it like it’s a shorter version of the Camino de Santiago, taking slow, purposeful steps to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with nature.

A geological balcony overlooking the Mediterranean

The Desert de Les Palmes is not only a green paradise. It also features red, ochre and violet hues. The terrain comprises ancient rock formations dating back more than 200 million years, which are still evident today. The landscapes change in tone at every turn, as though they were the brushstrokes of a restless artist.

This geological richness also makes the park an open-air classroom. From the red sandstone strata to the volcanic and limestone formations, the landscape tells the story of the passage of time and the Earth’s complex history. It is a visual feast for lovers of geology or simply amazing landscapes.

How to get there, when to go and what to bring

One of the Desert de les Palmes’ greatest advantages is its accessibility. Castellón is only a 20-minute drive away, and it is also easily accessible from Benicàssim. There are car parks at various points around the park, as well as several signposted access points.

• Best time to visit: spring and autumn are ideal, with mild temperatures and more flowers in bloom. You should avoid the middle of the day in summer.
• What to take: comfortable walking shoes, plenty of water (there are no water sources along the route), food if you’re planning to spend the day out, a sun hat, sunscreen… and don’t forget to be open to being surprised!
• Extra recommendation: check the routes on the website of natural parks of the Generalitat Valenciana or at the tourist information offices in Castellón and Benicàssim. There are guided tours, activities for families and special programmes on specified dates.

A getaway that will transform you

You may not notice it at first. You are likely to arrive at the Desert de les Palmes expecting a pleasant walk among pine trees. But when you look back from any viewpoint or take a breath under a lone oak, you’ll see that this park has a lot more to offer than just hiking.

It brings silence to a noisy world. A horizon away from the bustle. Beauty without filters or likes. And even spirituality for those not searching for it.

You don’t have to conquer the Desert de les Palmes: you simply walk and breathe, and feel grateful.

The province of Castellón, in the Autonomous Community of Valencia, is one of those places that will amaze you with its diversity and authenticity. The Columbretes Islands are one of the treasures hidden in this territory.

Castellón: a year-round destination

Lapped by the waters of the Mediterranean and surrounded by mountains and natural parks, Castellón is ideal for anyone wishing to switch off from the hectic pace of city life and reconnect with nature, culture and the tranquillity of the sea. Its mild climate all year round, its charming towns along the coast and inland, its pristine beaches and its delicious cuisine make this province a perfect location to enjoy, whatever the season.

Nature, culture and coast: something for all tastes

Castellón has something to suit all tastes: from walks in the Desert of Palms Natural Park or the Sierra de Espadán, to cultural trips to places such as the castle in Peñíscola, the walled city of Morella or the old town in the provincial capital. And for sea lovers, the hidden coves, water sports and marine landscapes invite you to explore a Mediterranean that remains untouched in many spots.

A hidden gem in the Mediterranean

Right in the Mediterranean, just a few dozen kilometres off the coast of Castellón, you can still find natural paradises that not many people know about, with a stunning wealth of flora and fauna. One of the finest examples is the archipelago of the Columbretes Islands, a magical place where nature takes its course with hardly any human intervention.

The Columbretes Islands: their volcanic origin and biodiversity

The Columbretes Islands are a group of small islets of volcanic origin, lying around 50km off the coast of Castellón. Designated a Natural Reserve and Marine Reserve, these islands are an important sanctuary for biodiversity. Their isolation has allowed a unique ecosystem to survive both on land and underwater. The largest island, Illa Grossa, is the only one you can visit, with permission and accompanied by expert guides, ensuring the preservation of this very fragile environment.

What to do on the Columbretes Islands

One of the most authentic experiences to be enjoyed on the Columbretes is a boat trip from the harbour at Castellón, Oropesa or Alcossebre. You can enjoy being at sea and the spectacular views as you approach the islands. Once there, taking a guided tour of the Illa Grossa is a must: you can stroll along its volcanic paths, spotting birds such as Eleonora’s falcon or discover the history of the lighthouse that still dominates the island. For those keen on diving and snorkelling, the crystal-clear waters surrounding the islands offer an unforgettable underwater spectacle, with lava sea beds, seagrass meadows and a wide variety of marine species.

Useful tips for your visit

The best time to visit the Columbretes Islands is between the months of May and October, when the climate is more stable and sailing conditions are at their best. Staying overnight on the islands is not permitted, as they are protected, and they have no restaurants or accommodation facilities. So it’s essential to plan your trip well, using one of the authorised companies that run day trips from the mainland. These tend to include a boat trip, the guided tour and, in some cases, time to go for a swim or do some snorkelling.

For the more adventurous or sea lovers, there are also special trips for certified divers who want to explore the rich sea life in this unique spot. Booking in advance is recommended, especially in high season.

Come and discover the essence

The Columbretes Islands are much more than your usual destination; they’re an experience that connects you with the pure essence of the Mediterranean. Come and discover this natural paradise, where time stands still and nature has its own voice. Because sometimes, the real gems are hidden in plain sight, floating in the endless blue of the sea.