We’ve planned a great new route for you: a tour of the iconic sites of the Valencian movement of ‘modernismo’. From the Estación del Norte to the Mercado de Colón, including markets, palaces and façades to make you look up the whole way along.
Valencia has that magnetic charm that naturally draws you in: hours of sunlight, a pleasant climate all year round, kilometres of beach, a cuisine you’ll always remember (welcome to paella and horchata), and a delicious combination of past and present. Cycling along the Turia Gardens, strolling through the Old Town or visiting the City of Arts and Sciences are practically a must. And if I also tell you that the city was named the European Green Capital 2024, you can get an idea of the great urban vibe awaiting you here.
Art Nouveau, Valencian style
At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, Valencia was enjoying a period of creative euphoria; the local bourgeoisie made every effort to fill the city with buildings that were modern, beautiful and functional. In Valencia, modernism was renowned for its use of iron, glass and ceramics, for its plant and sea-related motifs, for oranges, orchard produce and local festivals featured in mosaics and ironwork. It’s a style with its own identity, dotted around squares, avenues and markets, and which today you can admire on a day’s walking tour… or take in slowly over a few days.
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Estación del Norte: the glorious welcome
Start with one of the main points of arrival to the city. The Estación del Norte, opened in 1917 and designed by Demetrio Ribes, is Valencia’s introduction to modernism: an ornate façade full of ceramics, orange trees and ears of wheat, and an interior that seems to say “Bon voyage” in all languages (literally), through the wood, mosaics and ironwork. More than a railway station, it’s an artistic showcase and a source of local pride: listed as an Historical Artistic Monument since 1961 and a Cultural Heritage Site since 1983. Take your time to study the detail before crossing the square towards the centre.
Mercado de Colón: art, iron and delicious snacks
Just off Ensanche, Colón Market (1914–1916, Francisco Mora) is a cathedral of brickwork and light. The grand arched entrance, the towers and the metal framework beckon you in; once inside, cafés and bustling bars do the rest. It’s one of the finest examples of early 20th century Valencian modernism and is now a place for people to meet up at any time of day: for a breakfast of fartons (a local speciality bun) and horchata, then back for a vermouth aperitif, or for dinner beneath its windows.
Mercado Central: domes, tiles and the taste of the city
Carry on towards the Old Town to find the Central Market (1914–1928), a temple of iron and glass, where you can buy cured sausages, cheeses, fruit, and decide what you’re going to eat. Take a good look at the domes, with a nod to orchard produce, in the light streaming through the skylights, and at the ceramics featuring the colours of the Valencian flag. Architecture and everyday life come together here; order a sandwich at the bar and watch the world go by. This is modernism in its purest form, and the ultimate setting for a taste of Valencian cuisine.
Palacio de las Comunicaciones (Post Office): giants and letters in the air
Another must-see awaits you in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento: the former Post Office building (1915–1922), by the Aragonese architect Miguel Ángel Navarro. Look up to admire the five allegorical figures representing the continents, as well as the winged messengers, locomotives and boats featured in the ornate façade. No longer a post office, the building now hosts exhibitions and events, but the magnificent entrance used during its years of service is still in place. Step inside if it’s open and walk across the foyer under the dome.
Palacio de la Exposición: modernism at its most “gothic”
Visit the district of l’Exposició for the Exhibition Hall (1909), built in a hurry for the Regional Exhibition. Its creator, Francisco Mora, combined modernism with a nod to medieval Valencia (La Lonja and the Serranos Towers come to mind), resulting in an elegant, photogenic building, now used for events and exhibitions. It’s well worth a visit and stepping into its main hall (salón noble) on the first floor, if open to the public.
Casa del Punt de Ganxo: sgraffito and enchanting balconies
In the Plaza de la Almoina, very close to the cathedral, you’ll find this 1906 gem by Manuel Peris Ferrando. Its reddish façade, the floral sgraffito and wrought-iron balconies are the ultimate example of Valencian modernism. Stop for a moment to admire the bay windows, the reliefs and the pointed profile that make it unique. A perfect demonstration of how this style could bring art to ordinary residential buildings.
Calle de la Paz and the surrounding area: a façade-filled walk
If you want to continue this theme, walk down Calle de la Paz; it’s one of the most stylish streets of the 19th century, full of buildings displaying stunning modernist features. Between the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, Cirilo Amorós and the Gran Vía, you’ll also find the Casa Ferrer, period canopies such as the one above the entrance to the Teatro Olympia and photogenic façades. A friendly tip: walk slowly, look up and pick out the floral and geometric motifs in the stone, the ironwork and the ceramics.
And by the sea…
If you have any time left, cross the Turia Gardens towards Ayora and the port: the Palacete de Ayora, the Tinglados and the Edificio del Reloj are examples of how modernism was incorporated into the expansion towards the sea. Ideal for finishing off your tour in the sea breeze, before trying the local cocktail, agua de València, as the sun goes down.
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Useful tips for enjoying your tour
Wear comfortable shoes and let light set the pace: markets in the morning; Ensanche and Colón mid-afternoon; Plaza del Ayuntamiento and Estación del Norte at dusk, when the latter is lit up. When your stomach starts rumbling, have a bite to eat at the Mercado de Colón or go for a traditional paella; if it’s a Sunday, make sure you book in advance. And if you like, there are themed guided tours with secrets and anecdotes that you won’t discover elsewhere.
Say goodbye… until you’re back again!
Valencia needs to be enjoyed slowly, and its modernism even more so. With its stunning stations, bustling markets and historical palaces, it’s a city that makes you look up and smile. Are you coming to see for yourself?
