Welcome to Palermo, a kaleidoscope of colours, sounds and smells, capable of enchanting anyone who steps foot on its streets. Here, past and present intertwine in a timeless embrace, between architectural wonders steeped in centuries of history and the pure energy and buzz of everyday life.
There’s more to Palermo than its Cathedral, the Norman Palace with its splendid Palatine Chapel, or the Teatro Massimo; it’s also a city that celebrates life with a passion, especially when it comes to food.
The locals take good food seriously, and they do so in that nice, chatty way that you see in every corner of the city, particularly in its historical markets. These are the real beating heart of Palermo, the place where popular culture is expressed in its most authentic and vibrant form.
La Vucciria: the timeless charm of the most iconic market
La Vucciria is perhaps Palermo’s best-known market, made famous also by the works of the painter Renato Guttuso. It’s located right in the centre of the old town, between Via Roma and Corso Vittorio Emanuele. The name “Vucciria” comes from the French word “boucherie” (butcher’s shop), but in Palermitano dialect it also means “confusion” – and there couldn’t be a more appropriate word for it! Here, the shouting of the stallholders, the laughter, and the aromas of the spices create a unique atmosphere.
Once the realm of fresh fish, meat and spices, it’s now more a place where past meets present. In the daytime it’s quieter, but in the evening La Vucciria is quite a different place: the stalls make way for tables, and the market becomes a place where people gather for appetisers and street food. Make sure you try a “sfincione” (a kind of soft pizza with tomato, onion, anchovies and cheese), or a plate of “stigghiola” (roasted lamb intestines).
Opening time: Open every day from morning to evening, but it’s in the evening when it truly comes to life.
Where to go for something to eat and drink: Try “Taverna Azzurra“, an institution for lovers of good wine at affordable prices, or “Basquiat Cafè” for a cocktail in a more alternative ambience.
Ballarò: the most authentic and multi-ethnic market
Ballarò is the oldest and most authentic market in Palermo. It’s located between Piazza Casa Professa and Corso Tukory, and is open every day, from early morning until late afternoon. Here it’s as if time has stood still, and yet it has a contemporary feel, thanks to the presence of ethnic communities that enhance the range of goods and food available.
At Ballarò you can find a bit of everything: fresh fruit and veg, fish, meat, spices, local cheeses and cured meats. But its street food is the real star of the show. You can’t say you’ve visited Palermo without trying an arancina (take note: in Palermo they say arancina, not arancino!), a spleen bun (“pane ca meusa”), or the famous panelle e crocchè (chickpea fritters and potato croquettes).
Opening time: Open every day, from 7:00 until 19:00.
Where to eat: if you want to sit down, “Trattoria Al Vecchio Club Rosanero” is a great choice for a traditional meal. For a quick snack, look for the “Nino u’ Ballerino” kiosks, legendary for their spleen buns.
Il Mercato del Capo: history and flavours
Mercato del Capo is close to the Teatro Massimo, on Via Carini. Not as busy as Ballarò and La Vucciria, Capo market offers an authentic, less touristy experience. Here you can stroll among the stalls selling fruit, fresh fish and spices, with the stallholders attracting your attention with their “abbanniate” (the traditional bellowing of the market traders).
Il Capo is also famous for its sweets and pastries: cannoli, cassate and “sfince di San Giuseppe” are just some of the delicacies to be found here.
Opening times: Open from Monday to Saturday, from 7:00 until 14:00.
Where to eat: “Osteria Ballarò” is a hidden gem, where you can try some typical dishes in a welcoming atmosphere.
What you just have to try in Palermo
- Arancine: deep-fried balls of rice, filled with ragù or cured ham and mozzarella.
- Pane e panelle: fritters made with chickpea flour and served in a soft bun.
- Pane ca meusa: a bun filled with veal spleen and lung, for the more adventurous.
- Sfincione: a kind of thick pizza with tomato, onion, anchovies and cheese.
- Cannoli and cassate: the ultimate Sicilian sweets.
Palermo is a 360o sensory experience. By wandering around its markets you’ll soak up the very essence of the city, where old and new exist in perfect harmony. Whether you’re a foodie, a history lover or just a curious traveller, Palermo’s markets will capture your heart. Prepare your palate for a journey led by aromas, colours and the warmth of the locals: this is where you’ll find the true heart of the city.
