Below the sun-baked streets of Palermo hides one of Europe’s most intriguing (and unsettling) places: the catacombs of the Capuchin friars. Shall we descend into the silence together?
Palermo, the city you weren’t expecting (and that wins you over)
Anyone who comes to Palermo immediately gets it: life has a fuller flavour here. With its chaotic markets such as Capo and Ballarò, baroque palaces reflected in the sea and the heady aroma of chickpea fritters and cannoli freshly filled, you realise that the city is a kaleidoscope of stories, flavours and colours.
But Palermo is not just about joie de vivre, ancient culture and stunning beaches like those in Mondello or the Zingaro Nature Reserve. It’s also a place where history adopts surprising and even macabre forms, as in the case of the Capuchin Catacombs, the only place of its kind in the world and one that manages to combine the sacred and the profane, mystery and wonder.
The Capuchin Catacombs: a museum of death… but very much alive
Beneath the monastery of the Capuchin Friars in the Cuba district, lies one of Europe’s most extraordinary sights: the Catacombs of the Capuchins of Palermo, a vast underground labyrinth and the resting place — if you can call it that — of over 1,200 mummified corpses. But don’t expect a dark and bare crypt: here the dead are dressed, displayed, almost posing, and divided into categories — friars, women, men, noblemen, children, professionals — like a theatre performance of life… after life.
This all started back in the late 16th century, when the friars decided to mummify the body of a much loved brother, Fra Silvestro da Gubbio. Following his perfect preservation, they began to do the same to other friars and, eventually, also to members of Palermo’s nobility and bourgeoisie. It wasn’t simply a question of faith: being “seen” after death was a way of leaving a sign, a memory.
A place that tells a different story of Palermo
Walking through the long passageways of the catacombs is a surreal experience. The corpses — some still with hair, moustaches and elegant clothing — seem to silently watch over their visitors. There’s nothing macabre about it in the usual sense of the word, it’s more of a powerful testimony of the bond between the living and the dead in Sicilian culture.
As the Sicilian saying goes, A’ morti sula nun c’è riparu, there is no remedy for death. Here the dead aren’t hidden inside tombs; their memory is etched in their faces, in their clothes and in their pose. Some are kneeling, some appear to be sleeping, others stare at you with a gaze suspended between eternity and earthly vanity.
Rosalia Lombardo: Palermo’s sleeping beauty
Among them all, one body moves and astonishes more than the others: Rosalia Lombardo, a two-year-old girl who died in 1920 and was embalmed using a technique that still remains something of a mystery today. Her features are still unbelievably intact, and she looks as if she’s just sleeping. She became known as “the sleeping beauty” and attracts thousands of visitors every year, intrigued by her serene appearance and the legends surrounding her.
It is said — and some swear to have seen it — that Rosalia opens and closes her eyes depending on the humidity of the atmosphere. Is this true? A myth? Magic? In Sicily, some things can’t be explained; they’re simply handed down.
A ritual rather than a tomb
But why mummify the bodies? And why display them? Because in Sicily, especially in the Baroque period, death was not taboo, but simply a part of life, a milestone like birth or marriage. Family members would often visit their loved ones in the catacombs, bringing flowers, praying, and in some cases asking to change the deceased’s clothing: a way of keeping them as part of the family even after death.
This ritual, which may seem strange to us today, reflects a deep understanding of time and identity: the dead don’t disappear, they stay among us. Maybe not sitting at the table, but they’re present, visible, tangible.
Strange and curious facts: “behind the scenes” in the Catacombs
There are plenty of curious anecdotes. For example, in the catacombs there are the bodies of certain artists, doctors, lawyers, even children dressed as little angels, a symbol of innocence and celestial hope. Some mummies still have polished shoes, white gloves, walking sticks.
There are also women in their bridal gowns, perhaps young noblewomen who died before their wedding day. And there are some who say that, on certain nights, when Palermo is silent and the monastery sleeps, you can hear faint footsteps coming from the underground passageways.
So, if you’re expecting the usual sightseeing experience, you’re in for a shock: you’re entering another world here, where time is suspended and the barrier between life and death is just a thin veil.
Useful information for your visit
The Catacombs are at Piazza Cappuccini, 1, just a few minutes from the old town. They’re open all year round (except for 25 December, 1 January and Easter) from 9:00 until 13:00 and from 15:00 until 17:30. Entry costs 3 euros — a modest sum for a truly unique experience.
You are not permitted to take photos inside (respect and silence are essential), but we can assure you that the images you take away will be much more vivid than any on film.
Visiting the Capuchin Catacombs is not just a tourist stop; it’s stepping right into the depths of an ancient, spiritual and theatrical Palermo. A place where the dead still have a voice, not through words, but through their presence.
If you’re someone who likes to discover the unusual and authentic side of places, if you’re not scared by the idea of exploring mystery with respect and curiosity, then this is the place for you. Because, as we say in these parts: “Cu avi cuscenza, s’arricorda puru quannu dorme”, those with a conscience remember even when they’re asleep. And here, sleep is eternal… but memory is alive more than ever.
