An island/mountain just a few minutes from Olbia: emerald-sea beaches, scenic trails up to the ridges, dreamy backdrops within a Marine Protected Area. A perfect trip for people who love nature, the sea and walking.
It’s worth saying right away: Tavolara is THAT unmistakable profile you can already see from the plane; a blade of limestone rising up out of the Tyrrhenian Sea, harbouring pristine beaches, fragrant scrubland and protected waters. It seems a long way off, but it is just a step away from Olbia. Getting there is easy, being there is a gift. No road or noise, just the wind, salt and the gentle rhythm of the Mediterranean. Sublime if you are looking for a day (or two) of detox split between sea-view hikes and clear water swims. The island lies at the heart of the Tavolara-Punta Coda Cavallo Marine Protected Area: 76 km of coastline and 15,000 hectares of crystal clear waters from Capo Ceraso to Punta S’Isuledda.
A paradise just a stone’s throw from Olbia
Tavolara is a limestone and granite mountain around 560 metres high and a few kilometres long overlooking the gulf between Loiri Porto San Paolo, Olbia and San Teodoro. The natural amphitheatre of Mediterranean scrub (juniper, rosemary and lentisk) frames beaches and coves facing out on an impossibly turquoise sea. The extra touch of charm? The legend of the “world’s smallest kingdom”. In the nineteenth century, Giuseppe Bertoleoni was “crowned” as its sovereign by Sardinia’s then ruler, Carlo Alberto, a tale that still lends a cheerful note to the island’s history.
How to get there: simply (and spectacularly)
Just a short crossing from the coast: boatmen leave all year round from Porto San Paolo and private boats also leave from Olbia and Golfo Aranci in high season. You go ashore at Spalmatore di Terra, where the pier and the refreshment places are found. It is a good idea in summer to book and check schedules and return times. The crossing takes around 15-20 minutes, but spaces fill up fast in the middle of the day.
Beaches and coves: the Spalmatore di Terra
The postcard image of Tavolara is the sandy tongue of the Spalmatore di Terra: two bodies of water, one on each side, Caribbean tones and the rocky “wall” rising behind it. Here the seabed slopes gently, making it perfect for swimming, snorkelling and spreading your towel between sea lilies and the juniper bushes. It is also the most convenient starting point for exploring the island on foot… and for lunch with a view of the massif.
Hiking: ridges on high above the blue sea
If you love walking, Tavolara delivers. The easiest routes run along the plain of the Spalmatore, offering magnificent views of Molara and Capo Coda Cavallo in just a few minutes. For more experienced people though, the ultimate challenge is the Ferrata degli Angeli, an “EEA” route (for experienced hikers with gear) that climbs up the southern slope to the ridges leading to Punta Cannone (the highest peak, at around 560-565 m). This spectacular, exposed route calls for sure-footedness, proper equipment and, if you are not a via ferrata climber (experienced with gear-assisted routes), a guide. Spring or autumn are better options, as the sun is fierce in mid-summer.
Underwater: a biodiversity sanctuary
A world opens up around the island: meadows of posidonia seagrass, walls and crevices teeming with schools of damselfish, salema and saddled seabream. Dolphins are often spotted, and during the season, the elegant osprey can sometimes be seen soaring above. The Marine Protected Area shelters species and habitats by means of a zoned system (areas with increasing protection): respecting it safeguards the ecosystem and ensures a truly “living” sea. If you love scuba diving or snorkelling, ask the authorised centres for the best sites and rules for access.
Stories and legends with a salty flavour
As well as the “kingdom” of Tavolara, marine culture is all around here: ancient landing places, a little cemetery that tells the story of lives linked to fishing and navigation and a summer film festival that has drawn directors and actors to the Spalmatore for decades for seafront screenings. The evenings of the festival are unique: you arrive by boat from Porto San Paolo and watch the film with the smell of salt and the rustle of the scrub.
Hiking or the beach? Here’s how to get organised
— “Gentle” half day: boat in the morning, panoramic walk on the plain and dip at the Spalmatore. Casual lunch and return in the afternoon.
— “Active” day: morning climbing with a guide (Ferrata degli Angeli / peak), lunch break at the Spalmatore, afternoon snorkelling in the permitted areas.
— With children: staying in the Spalmatore area; the sea is shallow and everything is close by.
Protected nature: simple (and valuable) rules
Tavolara is fragile: do not litter, remove sand or shells or drop anchor outside the permitted areas (ask the boatmen), no flying of drones or playing of loud music. If you snorkel, do not step on the posidonia; when walking, stay on the trails. These are small gestures that make a difference in an ecosystem so close at hand… and so special.
A perfect base for exploring the Gallura region
Tavolara’s “sister”, Molara, Capo Coda Cavallo and the beaches of San Teodoro (La Cinta, Cala Brandinchi, Lu Impostu) are all within easy reach of Olbia. You can get there in a trice, and each bay offers a different shade of blue.
Practical tips for enjoying Tavolara at its best
— When to go: spring and early autumn are best for hiking and for the sea. Choose early morning or late afternoon during the summer.
— How to get there: from Porto San Paolo all year round. Also from Olbia and Golfo Aranci on private boats during the main season. Book in high season.
— What to take: water (no water sources are available), snacks, sunscreen, hat, mask and snorkel; shoes with proper soles for the trails.
— For walkers: the via ferrata is for experienced people and requires gear and guidance; find out about the weather, boat times and return times.
Close your eyes… and go again
Tavolara stays with you: the scent of rosemary, the rustling of the mistral, the mountain plunging into the sea. It is a trip that makes you say “again!”, and the good news is that it is so easy to get away to Olbia. Ready to take flight? Volotea takes you to Gallura and from there, Tavolara is just a stone’s throw away – the adventure has already begun.
