Between Malta’s highest cliffs and one of its most remote coves, this route reveals an unexpected side of the island: arid, quiet, open to the Mediterranean and surprisingly solitary. A trek for those seeking pure landscapes, far from the most touristy routes.
Malta is often imagined through its golden-stone cities, Baroque churches, historic harbours and crystal-clear waters. But there is another, less obvious Malta: more horizontal, rougher, where travel is measured not in monuments but in wind, dirt paths, dry-stone walls and cliffs that drop towards an immense sea.
This Malta appears with particular force in the west of the island, between the Dingli Cliffs and Fomm ir-Riħ Bay. Here, the landscape opens up without too many concessions: no large developments, no seafront promenades, no beach bars by the water. Just a rugged coastline, cultivated fields, narrow paths, low vegetation and a sense of isolation that is hard to find on such a popular island.
The route connecting Dingli with Fomm ir-Riħ is neither an urban stroll nor an improvised walk in sandals. It is a moderately difficult trek, with exposed sections, stony descents and areas where good orientation is important. But that is precisely what makes it so special: it forces you to slow down, pay attention to the ground beneath your feet and accept that nature here has not been domesticated for visitors.
Dingli: walking along the edge of Malta
The natural starting point for the route is the Dingli Cliffs, one of Malta’s most spectacular landscapes. Located on the island’s western coast, these cliffs form Malta’s highest stretch of land, with Ta’ Dmejrek — the highest point in Malta — rising to around 253 metres above sea level.
From above, the view is wide and almost hypnotic. The Mediterranean stretches out uninterrupted, the small island of Filfla appears on the horizon, and the land falls away in natural terraces towards the sea. Unlike other, more built-up or frequently visited coastal areas of Malta, Dingli preserves a rural atmosphere. The road runs close to the cliff edge, but it only takes a few minutes of walking away from it to feel the landscape taking over completely.
The surroundings are shaped by fields, small agricultural plots and paths that follow the cliff line. Limestone, wind and Mediterranean vegetation create a dry, luminous setting, especially beautiful in spring, when temperatures are mild and the countryside still holds some of winter’s green.
Before setting off, it is worth pausing. Not only to take photos, but to understand the scale of the route. From Dingli, the walk does not lead to an easy cove, but to one of Malta’s most isolated bays: Fomm ir-Riħ, hidden between cliffs and accessible only on foot or from the sea in favourable conditions.
The route: from Dingli to Fomm ir-Riħ
There is no single official way to do this route. The area allows for different combinations: circular trails around Dingli and Fawwara, coastal walks towards Baħrija, or itineraries approaching Fomm ir-Riħ from the Mġarr or Ġnejna area. To plan a specific route from Dingli to Fomm ir-Riħ, the most sensible approach is to think of it as a half-day linear or semi-circular walk, adapting the distance and difficulty to the exact starting point and chosen return route.
As a reference, the Dingli Cliffs and Fawwara Trail is around 9.5 km long, with an approximate elevation gain of 186 m, and usually takes 2.5 to 3 hours to complete, with a moderate level of difficulty. Other routes in the area that connect with Fomm ir-Riħ, such as the loop from Mġarr, are around 11.7 km long and are also considered moderate.
For a hike from the Dingli Cliffs to Fomm ir-Riħ, it is advisable to allow between 3 and 4 hours of actual walking time, plus extra time for stops, photos, a rest at the bay and the return. The distance may vary depending on the route, but it is reasonable to estimate around 10 to 12 km if planned as a broader walk through the coastal area.
The trail begins with the feeling of walking along the upper edge of Malta. At first, the landscape is relatively open and comfortable: rural tracks, paths beside fields, constant views of the sea. But as you move north and look for the descent towards Fomm ir-Riħ, the terrain changes. More uneven sections appear, along with loose earth, slopes and passages where attention is required.
Fomm ir-Riħ Bay does not give itself up easily. That is part of its charm. Access down to the shore can be tricky, especially after rain or when the ground is damp, as some areas of clay and reddish soil can become slippery. Visitors and hikers often warn that the descent requires care and good footwear, particularly in the final sections.For this reason, the route should be understood as a trek, not as a simple visit to a beach. Those who only want to swim may find easier options in Malta. Those looking for landscape, silence and moderate effort, however, will find one of the island’s most memorable routes here.
Fomm ir-Riħ: a cove on the edge of the tourist map
Fomm ir-Riħ literally means something close to “the mouth of the wind”. The name could not be more fitting.
The bay appears tucked between slopes and cliffs, with a pebble beach and transparent waters that change colour depending on the light. There are no major facilities, no restaurants, no rentals, no music, no seafront promenade. And that absence is exactly what makes it such a special place.
On an island where many coastal spaces are perfectly integrated into the tourist experience, Fomm ir-Riħ preserves a sense of remoteness. Not because it is far away in terms of kilometres — Malta is small — but because reaching it requires intention. You have to want to get there. You have to walk. You have to accept that it may not be the most comfortable place, but it is certainly one of the most authentic.
The bay lies on the western coast, near Baħrija, and is surrounded by a rugged, sparsely urbanised landscape. Some guides describe it as one of Malta’s most isolated beaches, precisely because of its limited access and lack of services.
On arrival, the reward is not only visual. It is also acoustic. The sound of the sea striking the pebbles, the wind moving through the slopes, the absence of human noise. The feeling of having found a pocket of silence on an island that, in other places, can seem constantly active.
A swim can be tempting if the sea is calm, but caution is essential. There is no lifeguard, the seabed is rocky and conditions can change. This is not a beach designed for settling in comfortably, but a place to rest, look around, perhaps enter the water carefully, and then put your shoes back on for the return.
What makes this stretch special
The route between Dingli and Fomm ir-Riħ has something that is not always easy to find in Malta: continuous scenery with very little urban intervention.
For much of the walk, the sea remains at your side as a constant presence. This is not a succession of isolated viewpoints, but an experience of the horizon. The path moves through dry, almost mineral terrain, where vegetation is low and resilient: sea fennel, Mediterranean scrub, wildflowers in spring, aromatic herbs released by the brush of the trail.
The absence of urbanisation is one of its greatest assets. Malta is a densely populated island, and precisely for that reason these open stretches carry a special weight. Here, the landscape feels older, more stripped back. The dry-stone walls recall agricultural activity, rural tracks connect small plots, and the sea acts as an absolute frontier.
Spring: the best time to walk
Spring is probably the best season to do this route.
Between March and May, temperatures are usually much more pleasant than in summer, the countryside retains colour and the light allows for long days outdoors without the extreme heat of the central months of the year. The vegetation is also more alive, wildflowers appear, and the contrast between dry land, fields and the blue of the Mediterranean becomes especially photogenic.
In summer, the route can become tough. There is little shade, the ground reflects the heat and the effort multiplies. If you do it during the warmer months, it is essential to start very early, carry plenty of water and avoid the middle of the day.
Autumn is also a good option, especially when temperatures drop and the island regains a certain calm after summer. But spring has an additional advantage: it makes it possible to combine hiking with other outdoor plans, without the pressure of high season and with a Malta that feels brighter and gentler.
How to get there and organise the excursion
To reach the Dingli Cliffs, the most practical option is by car, taxi or private transport from Valletta, Sliema, St Julian’s or Rabat/Mdina. There are also bus connections to Dingli or Rabat, although timetables and combinations can strongly affect the route, especially if you want to finish near Fomm ir-Riħ and return from another point.
If travelling without a car, a reasonable option is to use Rabat or Mdina as a base, get from there to Dingli and arrange the return by taxi or hired vehicle. For those who want a more flexible experience, renting a car for the day makes it possible to combine the route with a visit to Mdina, the western coast or other less touristy parts of Malta’s interior.The route is not always clearly marked, and some paths can be confusing. It is advisable to carry a map or GPS app, enough battery and a route downloaded in advance. It is also worth checking the condition of the terrain, especially after rain, as access to Fomm ir-Riħ can become more slippery.
What to bring
The first essential is footwear. Ideally, wear trekking shoes or lightweight hiking boots with a good sole. This is not an excursion for flip-flops or city shoes, especially if you plan to descend to the bay. The terrain may include loose stones, compacted earth, clay and sloping sections. Water is essential. There are no fountains or regular services along the route, so it is advisable to carry at least 1.5 to 2 litres per person, more if it is hot. It is also a good idea to bring some food: fruit, nuts, a sandwich or energy snacks. Sun protection is another key point. A hat, sunglasses and sunscreen are necessary even in spring, because much of the route is exposed. A light jacket can be useful if the wind picks up on the cliffs. It is also worth bringing swimwear if you want to enter the water, although always with caution. And above all, bring a bag to take all rubbish away with you. Fomm ir-Riħ has no services, and precisely for that reason it should be preserved as it is.
A Malta without noise
The most surprising thing about this route is not only the landscape. It is the feeling of distance.
In reality, you are never very far from villages, roads or inhabited areas. But the route creates a powerful illusion: that of being in an almost empty Malta. A Malta of cliffs, fields and wind. An island where tourism is suspended and travel once again depends on something as simple as walking. That feeling intensifies on arrival at Fomm ir-Riħ. After the descent, the bay appears like a natural amphitheatre. The sea enters between the rock walls, the beach sits tucked away at the back and the horizon opens without obstacles. There is not much to do there, and that is exactly the best part. Sit, listen, watch the light change on the water.
In a destination so strongly associated with history, architecture and seaside tourism, this trek is a reminder that Malta is also a physical territory: an island of stone, wind and paths. A place where there are still corners that cannot be consumed quickly, but demand time and attention.
The ideal plan
The perfect day can start early in Dingli, when the light is still soft and the air remains fresh. Before walking, it is worth visiting the cliff viewpoints and observing the sea from above. Then, follow the path north, crossing fields and rural tracks, with short pauses to get your bearings and enjoy the landscape.
The aim should not be to arrive quickly, but to let the route build its own rhythm. Its interest lies precisely in the changes: from open cliff edge to inland path, from agricultural terrain to the descent, from infinite horizon to hidden cove. On reaching Fomm ir-Riħ, it is worth resting, eating something and enjoying the place without rushing. Afterwards, the return can be made via a variation towards Baħrija, Mġarr or back towards the Dingli area, depending on the chosen route and available transport.
To complete the day, a good idea is to end in Rabat or Mdina, where the contrast is perfect: from wild coastal Malta to the historic Malta of narrow streets, walls and golden stone. Another option is to close the day at a local restaurant in the western part of the island, with simple cuisine, fish, Maltese rabbit or Mediterranean dishes.
