Rethymno has a buzzing nightlife, thanks to the town’s thriving student population. One of their favourite haunts is Figaro, a bar occupying a renovated 17th century building, with a minimalist interior decorated with paintings by local artists. Hidden away in the pedestrian-only old town, Figaro is a little difficult to find – the best landmark is the towering minaret of the Ottoman-era Neratze
Mosque, on the opposite side of the street. Come here for morning coffee and a game of backgammon, or after dark for cocktails to the strains of Björk, Astrud Gilberto and Depeche Mode. It stays open late and also stages occasional concerts and exhibitions.