When July arrives and the Mediterranean coast is filled with parasols, Castellón’s refreshing inland secrets beckon.
Just over an hour from the coast, the province’s interior swaps sand for limestone, waves for the murmuring of rivers, and beach bars for quiet villages where summer moves at a different pace. You can still come here in a swimsuit, but the bathing water is fresh: there are natural pools, springs, canyons, riverside paths and mountain landscapes that seem designed to cool you down.
The star attraction of this getaway is Montanejos, located in the Alto Mijares region. It is a place that appeals to both travellers looking for an easy swim and those who prefer to earn it by walking. The village overlooks the River Mijares, nestled between rocky walls and pine-covered hills, with a landscape blending thermal waters, nature and adventure. In summer, when the heat becomes unbearable, its surroundings provide the perfect alternative to the province’s busiest beaches.
Montanejos, the most coveted inland swim
The best-known image of Montanejos is the Fuente de los Baños, a natural pool of clear water surrounded by rock walls where the river creates turquoise backwaters. Its fame is no coincidence. The spring emerges at a constant temperature of around 25°C, making it pleasant to bathe there for much of the year. Its flow also helps to feed the course of the Mijares river.
Arriving here in the middle of summer feels like a small ritual. First, there is the winding mountain road; then, the spa town; and finally, the river at the bottom of the valley, which seems to beckon you. The Fuente de los Baños is not strictly a wild river beach, but a managed natural site with designated rest areas and rules designed to protect the environment, which receives many visitors. This is precisely why it is worth planning your visit properly.
The reward is immediate. The water, which is neither cold nor hot, wraps around the body with an unexpected softness. The rocks act as a natural solarium, the trees provide shade in places and the sound of the river drowns out the background noise of the city.
Montanejos is an ideal base because it allows you to tailor your getaway to all types of traveller. Those looking for a simple itinerary can stick to the Fuente de los Baños and a stroll through the village centre. Those who want a more active experience can follow the course of the Mijares River, head towards the narrows or book a guided activity. Anyone after a slower-paced weekend can combine swimming with visiting nearby villages such as Cirat, Puebla de Arenoso, Montán or Arañuel, small places where the landscape still sets the rhythm.
Easy routes by the water
One of Montanejos’ great attractions is that you can combine bathing with hiking trails of varying intensity. For a taster, the best option is to walk the banks of the Mijares River, stopping at viewpoints and sections where the landscape opens up between the rock walls. The area around the Fuente de los Baños is ideal for gentle walks, particularly early in the morning or at sunset, when the light is softer and the heat has eased off.
Among the best-known routes is Los Estrechos, a walk which helps you to better understand the power of the river and the area’s geology. Here, the Mijares winds its way through gorges, cliffs and stone curves, creating a landscape that will surprise anyone who is only familiar with Castellón’s coastline. There is no need to make it a major expedition: just choose a section, take water with you, protect yourself from the sun, and avoid the midday heat.
Another option for those who are used to walking further is to visit the Barranco de la Maimona, an area closely associated with hiking, climbing and canyoning. Its vertical walls and riverside vegetation reveal Montanejos’ more rugged side. However, in summer, prudence is essential: routes through the ravines require up-to-date information, suitable footwear and, in some cases, professional guidance. The nature here is not just decorative; it must be understood and respected.
Adventure on the River Mijares
For those seeking an adrenaline rush, Montanejos is also one of the province’s leading destinations for active tourism. The River Mijares and the area around the Arenoso reservoir offer opportunities to practise activities such as rafting, kayaking, canyoning, via ferrata climbing and more, with specialised companies. The local offering includes water and mountain activities at various levels of difficulty, which require advance booking for guided experiences.
Gentle rafting is a great way to experience the river up close, particularly for those seeking an accessible and shared experience. Kayaking, by contrast, allows you to take in the scenery at a more relaxed pace, particularly in areas of calm water. Canyoning is ideal for more adventurous travellers, provided qualified guides and the right equipment are used.
Villages to extend the getaway
The Alto Mijares cannot be fully appreciated from Montanejos alone. This region comprises small inland municipalities where life moves at a slower pace and the landscape is more rural. Cirat, the district capital, has a mountain village atmosphere that makes you want to stop for lunch or a drink after spending the morning by the river. Puebla de Arenoso, located beside the reservoir, opens the door to broader landscapes of dammed water, hills and panoramic roads. Montán, Arañuel and Fuentes de Ayódar are part of a constellation of villages where everyday life revolves around springs, ravines and paths.
The gastronomy perfectly complements this kind of getaway. After a swim, you’ll want simple yet hearty dishes such as grilled meats, cured sausages, local olive oil, rice dishes from the region, seasonal vegetables and traditional desserts. In summer, the best plan is to book a table, order local cuisine and adapt to the village timetable, rather than the other way around.
Tips for enjoying your visit without leaving a trace
Montanejos has become much more popular, so it’s important to travel with a sense of responsibility. Before setting off, it is worth checking the official information from the town council regarding access, prices, dates with regulated capacity, and the rules for using the site. Access may be organised in a specific way at certain times, and the rules regarding food, pets, bathing equipment and camping items are designed to protect this very sensitive natural area.
It is also advisable to arrive early, particularly at weekends and during the hottest months. Parking is easier, it is less hot and you can enjoy the water before the biggest crowds arrive in the first hours of the day. Water shoes are almost essential as the rocks can be slippery, and they make entering the river much more comfortable. Sun cream, a cap, drinking water and a bag to carry away all your rubbish complete the basic kit.
Castellón in freshwater mode
Escaping to Montanejos and the Alto Mijares in summer reveals that Castellón offers many ways to cool down. Of course, there is the Mediterranean, with its bright beaches and blue horizon. But there is also the inland area of Castellón, with its warm rivers, hidden pools, stone canyons and villages where lunch stretches on in the shade.
Here, summer is measured not by the distance to the seashore, but by the feeling of immersing your feet in a river after a walk, by the coolness rising from the water, and by the silence that can only be found when the road leaves the coast behind. In Montanejos, you can experience Castellón in a swimsuit, but also with hiking boots and water shoes, and with the desire to take in the landscape slowly.
