Autumn is the perfect time to discover the less familiar side to this region: those traditions that have survived throughout the centuries and which are celebrated today with pride.
Autumn in Asturias is a feast for the senses. The landscape glows magnificently with its hues of ochre, red and gold, the forest floors are covered in crisp leaves, and the fresh air invites you to stroll among the chestnut and apple trees. But as well as the scenery and the walks, the Asturian autumn harbours cultural secrets worth experiencing first hand: Samhain, the ancient Celtic New Year, and Amagüestu, the local festival with chestnuts and cider enjoyed around the fire.
Samhain: myths, legends and pumpkin lanterns
Did you know that Halloween as we know it today has its roots embedded in Celtic culture, and that in Asturias it is still known today as Samhain? This festival, marking the end of summer and the beginning of the “darker half” of the year, was celebrated on the night of 31 October and into 1 November. For the Celts, this was not just a date in the calendar, but a true rite of passage: the time when the lands of the living and the dead came dangerously close together, enabling the spirits to move between the two.
Legends tell how on that night bonfires would be lit to drive away evil spirits and offerings would be left at crossroads or on doorsteps to honour the ancestors. The pumpkin lanterns we all see today at Halloween are in fact a modern-day version of the protective lanterns that would light the way for the souls.
Whilst this tradition would gradually fade and the influence of Anglo-Saxon Halloween began to gain ground, in Asturias, Samhain has been making a strong comeback over recent years. More and more towns are organising activities to keep this legacy alive, with children’s workshops, costume parades, family shows, themed tours of forts and museums, and even food fairs reviving traditional recipes. In some towns, you can still find pumpkin lanterns on the doorsteps, a reminder that this is a festival that belongs to both past and present.
Samhain in Asturias does not aim to compete with Halloween, but to reclaim its Celtic essence and adapt it to today’s way of celebrating. It’s an invitation to discover the local folklore and to soak up the magical atmosphere that connects both young and old to the ancient history of this land.
Amagüestu: chestnuts, cider and togetherness
If Samhain is the celebration of spirits and all things mysterious, Amagüestu is very much an earthly festival that brings neighbours together around the fire. Closely linked to the Asturian autumn, the stars of the show are two inseparable products: chestnuts and sweet cider.
Amagüestu is celebrated with the harvesting of chestnuts, which are roasted in large drums or on outdoor grills. Their aroma wafts through the squares and streets, and as soon as you take your first bite you’ll understand why this tradition has survived generation after generation. And the chestnuts are complemented with sweet cider, fresh from the presses, not yet fermented and retaining its natural freshness. The contrast of flavours, the sweetness of the drink and the toasted nuttiness of the chestnuts, is truly symbolic of the Asturian autumn.
But Amagüestu is not just about food and drink: it’s a celebration of and for the community, where locals and visitors can come together and join in with the singing, dancing and popular games. Many towns hold traditional markets, competitions and activities for children, making this festival a great experience for families and curious tourists.
It’s no wonder that certain events associated with Amagüestu are considered a Fiesta of National Tourist Interest, such as the Noche Mágica and the Festival del Esfoyón y Amagüestu. The latter combines the tradition of husking maize with enjoying chestnuts and cider, showing how toiling in the fields became a cause for celebration.
Joining in the festivities of Amagüestu is the ultimate way to experience autumn in Asturias: fire, smoke, laughter and the warmth of a community that knows how to enjoy the simple things in life.
A journey into the heart of the Asturian autumn
The next time you’re thinking about taking an autumn break, ask yourself whether you’d like to walk through golden forests, discover Celtic legends, savour freshly roasted chestnuts and sip sweet cider in a vibrant square. All this and much more awaits you in Asturias, a land that’s even more beautiful, warm and welcoming in autumn.
Asturias in autumn is no ordinary destination; it’s an experience to be enjoyed through all the senses. Come and discover it and soak up the magic of its traditions.
