Florence, with its history and cuisine, is the most popular Tuscan city for those seeking good food, art and culture all in one place. And today, in this article, I’ll be taking you on a tour of the four historical quarters of Florence, encapsulating everything that makes this city so unique.
Let’s enjoy an unforgettable weekend of culture and fine food and wine.
THE FOUR HISTORICAL QUARTERS OF FLORENCE
Not many know that what we now consider to be the historical centre of Florence is in fact made up of four ancient quarters of the city: Santa Maria Novella, San Giovanni, Santa Croce and Santo Spirito.
Santa Maria Novella
This quarter, running along the right bank of the River Arno, features unmissable sights such as the Ponte Vecchio and the Piazza della Repubblica, as well as some of the city’s key museums, in particular those housing modern and contemporary art, such as the Museo Novecento and the Palazzo Strozzi.
The latter is considered one of the most important exhibition spaces in Italy and holds some amazing exhibitions. There are two scheduled for 2024: Fallen Angels by Anselm Kiefer (22 March to 21 July 2024), dedicated to one of the greatest masters of 20th and 21st century art, famous for his highly impactful works exploring the themes of memory, myth, war and existence; then from 27 September 2024 to 26 January 2025 you can visit Painting without Rules by Helen Frankenthaler, featuring a wide selection of works created between 1953 and 2002 by one of the greatest American artists of the 20th century.
For more details on exhibitions, opening hours, tickets and events, take a look at the Palazzo Strozzi official website.
PLACES TO EAT IN THE QUARTER OF SANTA MARIA NOVELLA
Why not try somewhere with a real touch of glamour, right in the centre?
My suggestion is a delightful venue: Ristorante Sofia Loren, which, not only offers a wonderful menu, inspired by Neapolitan cuisine, but will amaze you with its sophisticated ambience, created by the history and heritage of the legendary Sofia Loren, who has captured the hearts of so many generations with her beauty and talent.
Besides a wide range of dishes and pizzas (from the classic Margherita to the more refined “Dolce Sofia” with crème pâtissière), the furnishings are lovely and the staff really nice!
And you’re right in the heart of Florence, in the Piazza della Repubblica, just a short walk from the city’s main sights.
Location: Ristorante Sofia Loren, Via dei Brunelleschi 11, Florence
SANTO SPIRITO E SAN FREDIANO
Described by Lonely Planet as “the coolest neighbourhood in the world”, this is the most authentic and artisan part of Florence.
It’s known as “Oltrarno” as it’s on the other side of the Arno, on the left bank, and is just a short walk from the Piazza del Duomo.
This is where you’ll find the Pitti Palace, the Santo Spirito church, the famous Boboli Gardens and Piazzale Michelangelo, but it’s also the place to go in the evenings for a drink or dinner, as the area is full of bars and restaurants, some of which are truly special.
One I’d recommend is the Restaurant-Cocktail Bar The Stellar, which is bound to amaze you. Located on the ground floor of a former palace in Piazza di Cestello, in the heart of the San Frediano neighbourhood, The Stellar has a unique, elegant and sophisticated atmosphere, but most importantly, we’ve always eaten well here and it’s also one of our favourite places in the spring for dinner and drinks with friends in its inner courtyard.
Location: Piazza del Cestello.
SAN GIOVANNI
Here we’re right in the centre of the city, in the quarter comprising the Piazza Del Duomo, San Lorenzo, the Medici Chapels, as well as the Galleria Dell’Accademia, housing the original David by Michelangelo.
This is an extensive area with plenty of restaurants, pizzerias and eateries of all kinds. So, I’d like to recommend an experience that’s a bit different from the usual “tourist snack”.
Make your way to the Mercato Centrale, also known as San Lorenzo Market, where you’ll not only find the outdoor market for a bit of shopping for artisan products, but also an indoor area with tables and benches where you can savour dishes made daily with fresh ingredients.
Lorenzo de’ Medici at the Mercato Centrale: a cookery class, Florentine style
And if, like me, you like trying your hand at anything, then a visit to the Lorenzo de’ Medici Cookery School is an absolute must.
It’s located in Florence’s Central Market itself and runs a whole host of Tuscan and Mediterranean cookery courses.
You’ll be guided by an expert chef who will reveal the secrets behind every recipe and you’ll be cooking in a modern kitchen with high-quality professional equipment.
From the traditional pappardelle al ragù to the perfect preparation of ribollita, as well as typical Tuscan sweets, you’ll discover how to cook traditional dishes from the region in an authentic and enjoyable way.
Of the many interesting courses on offer at the school, the highlights for me are the course on traditional Tuscan cuisine, the pizza course, the course on filled pasta, the fish course and the patisserie course.
Location: Central Market, Florence
Contact details and info: info@cucinaldm.com
SANTA CROCE
This quarter features the Palazzo Vecchio, Dante’s House, the Uffizi Gallery and the Museo del Bargello.
It’s named after the Church of Santa Croce, situated in the square of the same name, and in my view this is one of the finest churches in the whole of Florence.
Inside you’ll find the tombs of many artists and illustrious figures, such as Michelangelo Buonarroti and Galileo Galilei.
A point of interest: inside the Church of Santa Croce there’s a beautiful statue in Carrara marble that’s reminiscent of the Statue of Liberty.
It’s called “Libertà della poesia” (Freedom of Poetry) and it does seem that it might have been the “inspiration” for the artist who soon after created the Statue of Liberty that stands in New York.
The city of Florence is an unmissable destination for anyone visiting Italy and Tuscany. A city that delights you with its wealth of history that’s unrivalled the world over, its rich and original cultural assets, its delicious cuisine and its cool neighbourhoods, all waiting to be explored. I’m sure this weekend of Florentine food, wine and culture has inspired you and given you the urge to pack your bags; I look forward to seeing you in my city!
