Less than 40 kilometres from Olbia, the sea disappears from the rear-view mirror and Sardinia changes face. Hills, granite, the Limbara forests and, above all, vineyards take over. Welcome to Berchidda, a small town in inland Gallura where Vermentino is not simply something to order as an aperitif: it is landscape, culture and an excellent excuse to sit down at the table.
If, during a holiday in Olbia, you feel like dedicating a day to a Sardinia far removed from coves and turquoise waters, this is a detour well worth taking. Preferably without rushing and, no small detail, with someone willing to drive back.
From blue to green: heading into inland Gallura
Olbia is about 38 kilometres from Berchidda, a little over half an hour by car. The journey may be short, but the change of scenery is striking: the coast is left behind as you enter a landscape of hills, Mediterranean scrub and vineyards dominated by the granite massif of Monte Limbara. That contrast is precisely what makes the trip so appealing. If you have already explored the beaches and excursions around Olbia, here you can discover the other half of Gallura, where the air smells more earthy than salty.
Berchidda is a town of around three thousand inhabitants, set on the southern slopes of Limbara. Do not expect a long checklist of monuments: the pleasure lies above all in the pace of the village, its uphill streets, its houses, churches and views over the valley and Monte Acuto. And, of course, in everything that ends up in your glass and on your plate.
Berchidda’s first rule: taste the Vermentino
This is Vermentino di Gallura DOCG country, the only Sardinian wine with Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (controlled and guaranteed designation of origin) status. The production rules require at least 95% Vermentino grapes and include Berchidda among the municipalities in the designated production area. But prestigious acronyms tell only half the story. The other half becomes clear when you look around you: soils formed by decomposed granite, sunshine, the wind and temperature variations all help give character to a wine generally known for its freshness, savoury mineral notes and Mediterranean aromas.
In other words, once you have seen where it comes from, the glass that just seemed like an excellent aperitif on the coast takes on a whole new meaning.
A museum where your visit can end with a glass of wine
A good place to start is the Museo del Vino – Enoteca Regionale della Sardegna, at the foot of Sant’Alvara hill. The exhibition traces the history of Sardinian winegrowing and the relationship between wine, territory and rural culture through tools, testimonies and objects connected with production. The interesting part is that the experience is not confined to the past: the museum is linked to the Enoteca Regionale, devoted to discovering and tasting wines from across the island.
It is a good first stop because it helps you understand what you will be drinking later. And any museum that helps you do your homework before a tasting starts will, let’s face it, give you a certain advantage.
But then you have to head into the vineyards
After the theory comes the more entertaining part. Around Berchidda you can visit wineries and vineyards to see at close quarters how Vermentino is made. One of the town’s historic producers is Cantina Sociale Giogantinu, which offers wine tours including visits to the vineyards and winery, an explanation of the winemaking process and tastings of Vermentino di Gallura DOCG accompanied by local sweet and savoury products.
It is not the only option: smaller producers can also be found around Berchidda, such as Un Mare di Vino, and it is worth checking in advance which experiences are available at the time of your trip.
Not an expert? No problem. A tasting here does not require you to identify “notes of wet stone at seven in the morning”. Simply compare different wines, ask how they change according to the soil and winemaking method and, above all, work out which one you like best. An impeccable scientific method.
At the table: Gallura gets decidedly hearty
Wine, naturally, never comes alone. And Berchidda’s traditional cuisine seems almost designed to remind you that you are in a land of shepherds and mountains.
The dish to look for is suppa cuatta, or Gallura soup: do not be fooled by the word “soup”, because there is very little that is light about it. Bread – traditionally Sardinian flatbreads known as spianate –, broth and plenty of cheese are layered and baked until they become a soft, flavoursome and decidedly comforting dish. Then there are maccarones furriados, a traditional local pasta, and sas laldadinas, small parcels of stuffed pasta. Not forgetting cured meats and cheeses, starting, naturally, with pecorino, an inevitable star of inland tables.
To finish, there are sospiri, soft almond sweets covered in icing. The name is poetic; the chances of eating more than one are very real.
If you want to continue the gastronomic journey once you are back on the coast, take a look at the local products and stalls in Olbia’s markets, or discover more about traditional Sardinian cuisine.
Before or after lunch, a little Limbara
To earn your suppa cuatta – or simply to digest it – you can add a walk on Monte Limbara, the massif overlooking Berchidda, to your day.
Forests, granite rocks, springs and viewpoints make this one of the most interesting landscapes in inland Gallura. There are several routes and equipped areas, so there is no need to plan a demanding trek: even a short walk offers a completely different perspective on Sardinia from the coastal one.
Anyone wanting to devote more time to walking can also take inspiration from the routes combining history and nature around Olbia.
And then there’s jazz
There is another reason why Berchidda is known far beyond Gallura: Time in Jazz, the festival founded by Sardinian trumpeter Paolo Fresu, who was born in the town. Every August, concerts and events take over Berchidda and other locations in northern Sardinia, bringing music into the squares, country churches and the heart of nature. If you happen to be in the area at that time, the atmosphere is special; if, on the other hand, you are looking for some peace and quiet, available tables and uncrowded tastings, you’re better off choosing another time of year.
Berchidda, after all, works beautifully outside summer too. Spring and autumn are particularly pleasant for combining vineyards, walks and food without the highest temperatures and the heavy tourist crowds of the coast.
Another Gallura, half an hour from the sea
Olbia is an ideal base for exploring north-eastern Sardinia, and it would be a shame to use it only to chase one beach after another. Simply drive inland to discover a completely different territory, where granite replaces sand and rows of vines take the place of beach umbrellas. Berchidda tells the story of this Gallura perfectly. It does so without grand special effects: with a village leaning against the mountain, a few uphill streets, hearty cuisine, vineyards stretching into the distance and a glass of Vermentino.
Which, after a day spent here, you will probably no longer simply call “white wine”.
