Catania archivos - Page 3 of 4 - VOLARE MAGAZINE

A few years ago, when I’d just purchased my first smartphone and there were not many apps for editing photographs (in fact you could count them on one hand), I was at a “chiosco” with some friends. We’d just ordered some drinks of mandarin and lime, lemon seltzer and salt, and green mandarin. The person serving us at the kiosk had put the drink glasses in a perfect line on the counter and it looked almost like a painting. “Wait, wait. Before we drink them, let me take a photo,” I said. So, I took my mobile and waited a good long minute for the photo app to load. Eventually, I took the photograph and applied some effects to it. Only I made a mistake. I changed the photo from brilliant colour to black and white. I wanted to try and retake it but meanwhile my thirst overcame me and the seltzer and lemon awaited.

I have never seen anything like the kiosks you find in Catania. To tell the truth, I can’t really say if there’s anything like them elsewhere. One thing I do know, although I can’t cite any specific source to back me up, is that kiosks are something typical of Catania. They’re like high-level street food. They offer gourmet drinks to meet any taste. Kiosks exist in Catania because we who live there are a people who care about the substantial things in life. We think first and above all about eating and drinking and believe all the rest must follow. Kiosks, you might say, take care of the drinking part. It’s important to be able to have just the right drink. This involves a custom mix of the most thirst-quenching syrup, the right amount of lemon juice and seltzer water fresh from the syphon.

Me, for example, I always ask for a lemon seltzer and salt. The salt is supposed to be optional. According to me, it’s indispensable. It’s a simple beverage. It takes only two minutes flat to make and less to drink. But it can quench your thirst like nothing else. When you’re really thirsty on a summer evening, a drink like that can loom up before you like a mirage in the desert. But for me it hasn’t always been just lemon seltzer and salt. That’s to say when I was a girl, it was mandarin and lemon instead. This is a mixture of mandarin syrup, “seltz” (which I should explain is seltzer water from a syphon) and lemon juice. Another mouth-watering version of this is the orange one which is very sweet. For some, its over the top. They’re the ones that drink green mandarin. That’s generally made with mandarin syrup also but one that’s a bit more sour. At least I think it’s that way . Otherwise, I don’t know how to explain why it changes the colour of your tongue. It’s the green mandarin, obviously, that changes your tongue green. What can I tell you? I’ve been crazy about that drink too since I was little.

Then, there are those drinks I discovered when I was a bit older. For example, “chinotto” or the non-alcoholic bitters you get at the kiosk. It’s not the same as the version you find at the supermarket, not even the more refined ones. The one from the kiosk is much better. There’s also tamarind. It’s a very sweet drink. But I would describe it as drinking tamarind in its purest form. Lemon-lemon with pieces of lemon in it is another great classic. I have a friend who will drive kilometres to have one at her favourite kiosk. In fact, the notion of a “favourite kiosk” opens a whole other discussion about what’s the best kiosk in Catania. It’s not easy to answer. For sentimental reasons, I’m very attached to Chiosco Giammona in Piazza Umberto near Via Etnea. It’s a landmark and the owners are very polite. They never ask me if I want salt in my “seltz” because, like me, they know its a necessary ingredient. The owners treat the kiosk as a kind of religion which also now happens to be a business.

There’s also another school of thought that roots for the kiosk in Piazza Borgo which is always busy at all hours. It’s easy to get to especially by car. You always find parking and there’s plenty of benches to sit down on. Sometimes though, they’re a bit too generous with the lemon juice. There, what starts out as a thirst-quenching drink can, I tell you, turn quickly into a stomach ache. Recently, I discovered the kiosk in Piazza Roma, which is also known as that of “Zio Lino” or ‘Uncle’ Lino. I’d never been there before. It’s only after the owner died that I found out it was a bit of a legendary place. They invented — in fact, patented — the perfect formula for making a frappé. If you had to find one word to describe their frappé, the word would be “substantial”. Their most famous flavour of frappé is the nutella one. I tried it upon the recommendation of a friend — as well as the hazelnut version. After that, I asked myself why I had never gone to this kiosk before. One thing is for sure. I will be going back. I need to try all the other frappé flavours they make. Stopping at a kiosk is a quench-thirsting break to take before a late-night snack at the “Laboratorio” (or ‘Laboratory’) on Via Napoli. This famous spot in Catania is open all night and serves pastries and hot food. There, it’s just not real love without an onion — or rather a pastry filled with onion, tomato, mozzarella and ham.

When one thinks of Sicilian gardens, the first place that probably comes to mind is Palermo. The noble palaces of the Kingdom of the two Sicilies are most often associated with the idealized splendor of flowerbeds and carriages. Yet, Catania has a long list of gardens – somewhat secret, as in the novel by Frances Burnett – which are rather overlooked but still very impressive. The type of gardens where you imagine yourself having a picnic or reading a book. And no, I’m not talking about the villa Bellini, the most central and well-known park in the city.

Giardino dei novizi
When I think of a tour in the historical center of Catania, the first secret garden that springs to mind is the “Giardino dei novizi”. It is located in the former Benedictine Monastery of Piazza Dante, which now houses the Department of Humanities of the University of Catania. It was there that I spent the most carefree years of my life. A word of advice? Come and visit in the spring, preferably during the students’ exam season. It is teeming with life, giving you the chance to eavesdrop on plenty of fun conversations.

Giardino di via Biblioteca
If you come out of the giardino dei novizi at lunchtime, walk through Piazza Dante to buy a snack and then go and eat it in the garden on via Biblioteca. It’s a stone’s throw away from the entrance of the Benedictine Monastery, in front of a small square filled with trees. In theory, it is a public thoroughfare enclosed within the walls of the University. The nice thing is that it is one of those places where the work of architect Giancarlo De Carlo – who renovated the whole monastic complex – blends in most with the plants. Up until a few months ago, there was a large carob tree inside a flower bed dedicated to judges Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino. Sadly, it no longer exists.

The courtyards of Palazzo Biscari
Years ago, I worked in an office in Palazzo Biscari. This is one of the most impressive and best-preserved noble buildings in Sicily. So much so that even Coldplay used it to shoot a video. Not to mention Carmen Consoli of course. But she is from Catania and was performing at home. I had never properly stopped to take a good look at it until, one day – in May I think – I came across the most amazing bloom of bougainvillea that I had ever seen. The light was so clear that I had to photograph it three times. Yet I could never capture it perfectly.

The Botanical Gardens of Catania
Once again, this was all thanks to my work. I was on the bus, half-reading, when while crossing via Enea, we passed by the botanical gardens. I’m rather fond of them because since I was little, I must have gone there a thousand times on school trips. But now that I’m a little older, I appreciate them more (also, the guides are very switched on). They were founded by a Benedictine monk and whenever I have to imagine Herbology lessons at Hogwarts, I picture them there.

In all my 26 years, I have never experienced Catania‘s night life. I have always heard stories about how this city used to be the Milan of the South or the Seattle of Europe and that there was once live music on every corner, everyone danced to rock and how the stadium filled up when a local recording company brought REM here for a concert. Just for the record, that concert was in 1995 and it opened with the then unknown band Radiohead. The rest is history. I have no memory of the city when it was like that. I’m still immensely fond of it even though the place where Carmen Consoli sang — before anyone ever imagined she would make it to New York with her voice and that accent — is now almost always empty.

The “radiant Catania” of those years has been replaced meanwhile by another city. It’s a city divided between those who look back nostalgically on the past and those who reinvent the future with each new day. The Catania I prefer is the one you find in the evening by going to the usual places. But is not like before when going out meant heading to the Piazza Teatro Massimo. Now the city is full of many small streets and squares brimming with people in the evening. You can find small barrels of good wine or craft beer or whatever drink you prefer. So much so that with this new kind of varied and democratic night life there is something to suit every taste.

Via Santa Filomena

If we must speak of taste, then a good place to start is Catania‘s gourmet street, Via Santa Filomena. It’s a name that is literally as well as metaphorically on everyone’s lips. You find almost all the best restaurants in town, one right next to the other, on Via Santa Filomena. Or, at least those that are up on current trends. There is Japanese food, deluxe fast food and traditional fare served in new ways on a great big platter. Via Santa Filomena has a tea room serving muffins and cheesecake, a place for meatballs and an acclaimed hamburger joint –so successful they’ve opened another in Palermo. Here you also find the most famous pizzeria in the city and a sushi bar takeaway. And it’s all in an itty bitty living space (compliments to whoever gets the reference to Disney’s Aladdin). After dinner, the area changes character as the two pubs in the vicinity, with flowers on their small tables and affordable beer, fill up.

Piazzetta Goliarda Sapienza

Welcome to St Berillo, a neighbourhood that’s being reborn. San Berillo has a citizen committee that is accomplishing a lot and there’s a neighbourhood museum that acts like an oasis. There’s also the little Piazza Goliarda Sapienza. It’s named after a poet and writer who spent her best years in the neighbourhood. Recently, the square was embellished with an artist’s mural and the opening of a locale. I spent an evening in the neighbourhood after eating in a nearby vegan restaurant and found if full of an impressive number of people. I thought to myself: “See how you can create a nice neighbourhood again if you only have some faith in it?”.

Piazza Federico di Svevia (near the Ursino Castle)

Here we say, “Na jute and du sivvizza,” which literally means, “Go once and bring home two results.” Or, in the case of the area around Ursino Castle, more than two. You can go see the castle that was built by King Frederick of Swabia. It’s now a museum and centre for good exhibitions. Then go out the main door and cross the street on the right to where the pavements are separated by painted car tires used to create an urban garden. This area’s been known as Piazza dei Libri or the “Book Square” for some time now. It was created by Gammazita, a cultural association active in the neighbourhood. If you take a good look, you’ll see there’s an open air library here. You can come here, get a book, sit on the pallets and read until you have to go. If you arrive in the evening, however, it’s difficult to find a place. There are some, though, who bring their own seat from home. The best thing is knowing that cars used to illegally park in this space. Now if people have to stand here it’s not because cars are in the way.

I’ve been told that the first thing that strikes you when you arrive in Catania is the blackness of the city. I had never stopped to think about that before having grown up in the city. Its colours were part of everyday life. I only thought about it when I was chatting to a Spanish friend while I was staying in Edinburgh (I like to put that in as geography can be funny at times). He said, “Catania, what an ugly city. I went there but I’ll never go back.” I was dismayed. I am fully aware of all its defects but I’m still profoundly in love with my city. Enough to remain attached to it even when I could have flown away.

I asked my Spanish friend to explain himself. “It’s a dark city,” he said “with all those black palazzos and those black streets. They’re depressing.” Before he visited Catania, he had already been to Ortigia and Syracuse. The historical centre of Ortigia is of an unparalleled whiteness. A white so pure it’s blinding. Ortigia is like a terrace opening out onto the sea. Practically everything in Catania is just the opposite. It is not surprising then, if you’ve just come from somewhere so different, that the main city around Etna makes a different impression. “And then, to tell the truth,” continued my Spanish friend, “I really didn’t understand the point of that elephant in the main piazza.” I thought this story about the ugliness and darkness of my hometown Catania over for a while. I’ve come to the conclusion that, in all reality, my Spanish friend didn’t take a proper look. I understood that he hadn’t stayed there long enough. In actual fact, Catania is dark because it’s as black as the volcanic lava which it rises out of. When Etna erupts, it’s red and incandescent. But as it cools, it becomes extremely hard and pitch black. We, the people of Catania, excel in transforming our misfortune into opportunity. We’ve used volcanic rock to build our palazzos which natural catastrophe has, from time to time, destroyed. Catania is black because it is made of lava. When we rebuild, we keep it that way because it’s part of the city’s identity. And why should we try to erase it?

Piazza Duomo, Via Etnea, Via Crociferi, these sites embody the city and are built with material from the “muntagna” as the people of Catania call Mount Etna. For us, it’s a given that the volcano is female. She has taken every opportunity to wreak devastation on us. And every time we patiently put the city back together. Better than it was before. There is one thing, for example, that we often tend to forget. Catania, as seen today, is built in a style that has a name all of its own. It’s called “Sicilian Baroque” and its strong personality reflects that of Catania itself. An earthquake in 1693 raised to the ground everything that it could. It’s always seemed to me that the palazzos built afterwards were given an imposing style as a kind of challenge. It’s as though they were saying, “What are you looking at? Does this stuff look like it will ever fall down?”

So far it’s held up and it’s there. Yes, of course it is, thanks to the mutability of that lava stone we were talking about. But this stone is also full of meanings hidden within its appearance. . For example, I discovered a few days ago that the façades of the churches in Catania have curves. You just need to know how to read them. If the façade curves outwards, the church is dedicated to a male figure. If the façade instead curves inwards, it means the church is dedicated to a female figure. I was told by an expert on the subject that it is all a question of iconography. The mother’s womb on one hand and masculine exuberance on the other. A perfect fit. Once I’d heard about it, I went looking for examples throughout the city’s streets. Two examples I found were the church of the Collegiata in Via Etnea and that of San Michele ai Bianchi in Via Vittorio Emanuele. It goes without saying they are beautiful to look at in their own right without thinking too much about their architectural curves.

«The sea has not even a country, and belongs to all who are listening«. Catania has a relationship with the sea that is as deep as it is complicated. Giovanni Verga, already knew this, when in his line from «I Malavoglia« or «Unwillingness« quoted above, he describes a custom that people from Catania get used to doing already from childhood: looking out at sea. In summer, in spring, in autumn, or in winter. The sea near Etna is different in every season. It’s a difference that you grasp by watching it from afar, while the waves hit up against the black rocks made of Etna’s lava. But, the best places to look out at the Mediterranean are hardly ever on the tourist itineraries found in guidebooks. For this reason, in these places you are sure to find only people who were born and bred in this city.

The Molo di Levante

There is no place that captures Catania better than «il molo di Levante« or the pier in the port of Ragusa. It’s located inside the port and you get there through the entrance on Via Dusmet or from the metro stop. It is, indeed, a pier. On good sunny days — which are most days in Sicily, in fact — it’s the most beautiful spot in the city, according to me. You have the sea in front of you and Aetna behind. The domes of the most beautiful buildings stand out amidst the houses. Could you ask for anything more? There are those who go jogging here in the morning and those who instead venture out on the breakwater for a quick lunch. Then, there are also the fishermen. You’d never guess, but many are young university students looking for bit of tranquility.

The Porticciolo di Ognina

I can’t do anything about it. Any «porticciolo« or small port, which has remained looking like one, wins my instant, warm, heartfelt affection. It reminds me that I live in a city that was built on its relationship with the sea and this makes me feel even more of an islander. Or, as Carmen Consoli (the singer who has raised up the name of Catania fairly throughout the world) has said, it makes me feel even more of a «siren«. That is. unable to bear being far from the beach. And it’s like that at the port of Ognina, with the small fishing boats named after women and the seagulls skimming just above the water. There, the city bobs on the sea.

The Belvedere di Santa Caterina

It wins you over with its beauty during the day and at night because it’s the most romantic place that exits. The «belvedere« or overlook of Santa Caterina is a bit outside Catania. To get there, you need to go by auto and travel for about fifteen minutes to the port of Acireale. You then stop in the little piazza with its pair of benches. railing, and the sea below. You can also go down to the sea, if you want, because there are steps –nearly 500– that bring you down to the beach made of black stones. Historically, the belvedere was the point to watch out for enemy ships trying to set anchor in Catania. Today you look down on the surrounding nature reserve. It’s one of the most suggestive places in eastern Sicily.

When I was in high school, there was a library nearby the school which I adored. I can’t remember what it was called, but it was big. Inside, it held a huge assortment and completely unexpected variety of all types of books. The windows were always full of the best-selling popular or literary works of the moment. But, it was enough just to go in and chat with one of the owners and the world instantly became more beautiful, more full of stories, writers and characters. I had a particular passion for the place until it closed. I missed it immensely but became fond of another library – with a tea room inside – but then that closed also. One cannot say that there are few bookshops in Catania, but they have been affected by the economic crisis and declining readership. There are at least three, though, that continue to carry on in such a delightful way that you just have to go and see them.

Vicolo Stretto (Narrow Alley)
This shop is the result of its owner’s passion for books. It’s a place so agreeable that you can pass hours there. It’s very tiny and is located on Via Santa Filomena beside a narrow ‘vicolo’ (alley) from which it takes its name. The bookshop hosts many events, including book signings, readings and discussions. What’s so striking about the place is its range of books. Although it may not have everything, it has a lot. And most importantly, what it has represents a beautiful selection. Maybe you won’t find the latest blockbusters, but you’ll certainly find local authors, significant works and, above all, the excellent advice of people who live for books and want to share their passion. Places like this deserve all our support. There, you can get to know the spirit of Catania-on-the-move a little better.

Macondo Wine and Book Cafè

Read a good book while sipping a glass of wine, some tea or a craft beer. Macondo rises up all of a sudden along Via Vittorio Emanuele, occupying a narrow, traditional street near Via Landolina and Piazza Teatro Massimo. That is, it’s situated near places at the heart of the city’s nightlife. In fact, it’s an oasis of peace and serenity. From the small tables inside – the furniture is mostly made of recycled materials – to those outside, there’s a homey atmosphere that seems outside time. I’ve engaged in long conversations there in summer and winter or spent several hours reading undisturbed by anyone. Macondo, like the fictional country it takes its name from, is an enchanted place. Sometimes, they have live music or a DJ. But to be there when its calm and quiet, you just have to know the schedule and avoid it during those times.

Prampolini
An historic library par excellence. It was founded in 1894 (originally functioning also as a bookbinding shop) and is also located on Via Vittorio Emanuele, although quite a distance from Macondo. It’s named after its founder, Giuseppe Prampolini, and was managed for many long years by his family up to the death of Romeo Prampolini. It’s now named after Romeo and run by one of his students. The Prampolini bookshop is a literary salon as well as a place with a fascinating history. The premises have remained the same for over a hundred years. It has antique bookshelves and many of the texts on display are now of huge historical as well as literary value. To be clear, it’s been a meeting place for Catania’s literary elite over the years and the décor hasn’t changed since this began. Of course, it’s not that once you sit on the same sofa as Vitaliano Brancati you’ll instantly turn into a brilliant intellectual. But, it may help a bit.

At some point a few months ago, my job required working on a commercial. You might immediately think, “Amazing! How Fantastic!”. Yes, I can’t lie. It is fantastic, but I had a tight deadline. I needed to find a really stunning location that was indoors, had long corridors and also very spacious rooms. It also had to be artistically striking and a place that makes your jaw drop when you see it, that makes you feel like you want to live there and enjoy it daily. In the end, we chose a former Benedictine Monastery, but not before I’d done a complete study of numerous locations around Mount Etna that have made it onto the big screen. Here’s my top five films and locations.

“Una Notte Blu Cobalto” featuring Catania by night, or rather, Catania by night on a Vespa. It’s an independent film shot entirely within the city. The protagonist, played by Corrado Fortuna (who’s since come a long way and proved to be an excellent writer), climbs on a Vespa, cobalt blue, of course, and goes around delivering pizzas. At one point, he circles around the elephant near the cathedral. You see a bit of Via Garibaldi with its “fortino”, one of the ancient gateways of the city. This scene gives me a lump in my throat.

“I Baci Mai Dati” featuring the Porta de Belleza (the Gate of Beauty). This film was much talked about when they shot it in Catania. They filmed it in Librino, a neighbourhood on the outskirts. It’s the same place my favourite rugby team, the Brigantis, come from and play. It goes without saying, I love the scooter scenes in this film too. There are a few very beautiful ones, for example, when the female protagonist passes near a flyover painted blue. It’s the Porta de Belleza, which was donated by a local philanthropist and decorated by many local artists. Even the schoolchildren worked on it, painting it with their own hands. No one has ever touched it. It remains there, whole and intact, reminding us of all the hard work that went into it.

“La Terra Trema” featuring the Cyclopean islands of Aci Trezza. I studied this film at university. I’m still grateful for its beautiful story since I learned so much about the cinema from it. For example, I learned to watch films with a somewhat more critical eye. The Cyclopean islands in Aci Trezza (which are really a pile of enormous rocks in the middle of the sea) are the backdrop of this masterpiece by Luchino Visconti. He started off making a documentary, but in the end made a film based on I Malavoglia, the book by Giovanni Verga. I too, in Visconti’s place, would have let myself been inspired by the landscape

“Storia di una Capinera” featuring the Hermitage of Saint Anne. After Luchino Visconti, comes Franco Zeffirelli. This film is clearly based on the novel of the same name (also by Verga—who I like immensely, in case you hadn’t noticed). But it’s enough just to focus on the setting. The Hermitage is in the small village of Aci San Filippo. After a morning on the water around the islands of Aci Trezza, you can take a small road, which climbs up and up the hill. At the top is the little chapel with a square in front, offering a stunning view.

“Palombella Rossa” featuring the Thermal Baths of Acireale which, incidentally, are in a very beautiful place. Nanni Moretti made a film here, which so embodies his unique style, it’s impossible not to mention it —if only for the poolside conversation between a journalist and the main character, Michele Apicella, a water polo player, interpreted by Moretti, himself. The scene is now famous. “What are you saying? What are you saying? Words are important!” screams Moretti’s alter-ego, Michele, as he sits at the edge of the pool in the shadow of Etna.

“Cu mancia fa muddichi“. The Sicilian dialect is extremely fascinating. Not the least for its ability to evoke familiar images and link them with unexpected meanings. The saying above, for example, translates into “If you eat, you make crumbs“. It’s a way of saying that if you do something, you may make a mistake or, rather, it’s always better to do something and make a mistake than do nothing at all. This is a philosophy I can fully relate to. It’s part of the spirit of the people of Catania, who are always busy and doing something. One of the reasons why I like the saying “Cu mangia fa muddichi” so much is that it refers to food, albeit in a metaphorical way. And food, for those of us who live in the shadow of Mount Etna, is something not to joke about.

In recent years, there’s been a trend in “reinterpreting” street food. Street food has been turned into a sensory experience. It’s been refined by great chefs and reformulated for restaurant tables. Although Catania has had its share of these reinterpretations, muddiche or °crumbs° are something we still like to make mainly in the street. In the capital city of Etna, a street food tour is a complete culinary experience and guaranteed to not leave room in your stomach for anything else. Of course, vegetarians and vegans might have a bit of a challenge. Still, there’s something to suit any taste. Also, cost is not an issue. Street food is made to be cheap. For a few Euros, you get a full meal. What things do you absolutely have to try?

The majestic “arancino”

This is an authentic and macho dish in Catania. In Palermo, instead, there’s a feminine version (“arancina”), which aims to be more refined. In Catania, we prefer to eat it with a meat sauce that has peas and big beautiful chunks of beef in it. It may not be necessary to explain, but an “arancino” is a ball of breaded and fried rice. The crispier the outside, the better the quality. Cooking rice for an arancino is not easy. The rice grains have to remain fully intact. Otherwise, half the taste is lost. Where to find the most famous ones? At Savia, the historic bar on Via Etnea which is in front of Villa Bellini. It’s an obligatory stop. A vegetarian alternative to the arancino with meat sauce? There’s the Catania-style arancino that comes with tomatoes, fried eggplant and salty ricotta. You should also try the pistachio version made in Bronte.

Horse meat

This is a kind of institution in Catania. It’s served in historic taverns or butcher shops that stay open all night, lighting up braziers to cook the meat in the middle of the street on Via Plebiscito. It’s certainly a folkloric scene and has a place in all the major tourist guides on the city. But, I might propose another option — the area around Ursino Castle, just a few steps from Piazza Duomo. There, you’ll find plenty of restaurants with outdoor seating which serve good meat dishes. It’s less chaotic and more homey than via Plebiscito. Make sure to try the cipollata (bacon wrapped around a fresh onion stem) and horse meat meatballs as well as the traditional fillet. The vegetarian alternative? L’insalata della nonna (grandmother’s salad) which comes with oil, cherry tomatoes, red onion and, if you like, salty ricotta. The dressing has to be diligently mopped up with a nice piece of homemade bread.

Sanguinaccio

Here’s how to describe it, at all at once and in one breath: pig intestine stuffed and cooked with pig blood. In the local dialect, we call it “sangele“. It looks a bit like a sausage, but is more regularly shaped. I’d never eaten it in Catania until – due to my ignorance of French – I ordered the French version while on holiday in Lyon. When they brought me the dish, I thought about sending it back. In the end, I decided to try it and found it delicious. In Catania, you find it for sale on the street, often in Via della Concordia, or at the Fish Market — the historical one that opens its doors every morning near the Amenano Fountain in Piazza Duomo. The vegetarian alternative? In this case, there isn’t one. Anyone selling blood sausage often serves wine with it to help “swallow it down” and wash the sausage’s pungent flavour off the palate. The wine in question is “zibibbo“, which is sweet and like a liqueur. I love it.

Cipollina

This is a puff pastry stuffed with caramelized onions, tomato and mozzarella. It alone makes a good dish for anyone not eating meat. Otherwise, ham can be added to the filling. There are also other versions with “hidden contents” for those who want a stuffed pastry filled with onions and mushrooms or onions, olives and spinach. The variations are endless. They all have their merits, although the traditional version is fairly hard to beat. Where to eat it? At the Laboratorio Via Napoli. For natives, it’s a required appointment in late night Catania. Some useful information: the Laboratorio has expanded and now has a celiac section. This development is much appreciated. Rumour has it that it is the best place for eating cafeteria style (“cipollina” is one of the so-called “items” there, to use cafeteria speak). You can eat there without even noticing that everything is gluten-free.

Sicily’s second largest city is an attraction of experiences and impressions for the senses. The sea and Mount Etna, the gigantic volcano, set its limits. It looks like the volcano is the guardian of the city although the city has not stopped reinventing itself after multiple eruptions and earth quakes. Catania, founded by the Greeks in the 8th century BC, is blue and cobalt, and plain: it extends from the mountain as a sheet until reaching the Ionian Sea. It is a mixture of culture, nostalgic and joy. If you are a lover of gastronomy prepared to be delighted with the mixture of local products. Not every thing that glitters in Italy is pasta: discover the local Arancini, (stuffed fried rice balls) a taste explosion. Enjoy the spectacular architecture of its wide streets. Sit in the Piazza del Duomo and open your eyes, real wide, and just enjoy.

In Catania you will find many idyllic beaches to enjoy a relaxed walk and the peculiar blend of city and nature. Should you wish to visit a beach different than all the others go to the small port of the volcanic beach known as San Giovanni Li Cuti. Its dark colour, due the volcanic rocks, gives it an unusual aspect, like a galactic

landscape stuck in time. And of course the enigma of Etna holds infinite stories and legends. The crashing of the waves has polished the rocks and created an unusual and irregular spot. These beaches are less frequented by tourists yet very worthwhile to see due to their strange beauty.