Nerello Mascalese, Carricante, high-altitude vineyards and small villages built from volcanic stone: from Catania, one day is enough to discover another side of Etna, best explored slowly and, above all, tasted.
In Catania Etna is never really out of sight. It appears at the end of Via Etnea, towers over the city rooftops and, on clear days, almost seems to point the way. And if you know the volcano mainly for its craters, lava flows and trekking routes, there is another way to explore it: by following its vineyards.
On Etna’s slopes, vineyards alternate with woods, hazelnut groves, orchards and kilometres of lava-stone walls. Altitude, exposure, rainfall and temperature can change quickly; on the eastern side, all you need to do is look down towards the valley to see the blue Ionian Sea beyond the rows of vines. It is precisely this variety that makes a journey through Etna wine country so interesting. The Etna DOC area is divided into 133 contrade, and the Consortium identifies four main slopes, each with different climatic conditions: Nerello Mascalese is the leading variety in the north, while on the wetter eastern side, directly overlooking the sea, Carricante takes centre stage. The Etna Wine and Flavours Route brings together wineries, farms, restaurants and accommodation with the aim of turning this diversity into an itinerary.
Catania, the easiest base for exploring Etna wine country
For a first visit, there is no need to change hotels and stay on the volcano. Catania works perfectly as a base: you can spend the evening in the historic centre, head out towards the vineyards in the morning and return to the city for dinner. It is also one of the most striking contrasts of the trip. In very little time, you move from Baroque, lively, Mediterranean Catania to mountain roads, forests, lava terraces and dark little villages built from the same stone that borders the vineyards.
If you would like to discover the volcano first from a naturalistic point of view, start with Volare’s guide on how to organise an excursion on Etna.
But why are Etna wines so different?
The explanation that ‘it’s all thanks to the volcanic soil’ is only partly true. Etna’s appeal lies in the combination of many different elements: soils created by lava flows from different periods, altitude, sun exposure, rain, wind, proximity to the sea and sharp temperature swings between day and night. The Etna DOC Consortium points out that these factors can vary considerably even within the same denomination.
That is why, when you hear people talk about contrade, it is worth paying attention. They are not just sommelier jargon: they are small geographical areas recognised by the production regulations. Tasting two Nerello Mascalese wines produced on different slopes or in different contrade is one of the quickest ways to understand that on Etna the word terroir has a very concrete meaning. It is also why, when visiting a winery, a comparative tasting is often more interesting than a simple sequence of wines from white to red. Whenever possible, ask to taste the same grape variety from different vineyards or contrade.
What to drink: four wines to start understanding Etna
If you are new to the volcano’s wines, I would start with an Etna Bianco DOC based on Carricante. It is often taut, fresh and savoury: a great first taste of just how far the mountain climate can take these wines from the sunnier, softer image we instinctively associate with Sicily. The next step is an Etna Bianco Superiore DOC. This is where Milo comes into the picture: this style can only be produced within the municipality and must contain a higher proportion of Carricante. For white-wine lovers, it could be the most interesting wine of the entire trip.
Then comes Etna Rosso DOC, dominated by Nerello Mascalese and often complemented by Nerello Cappuccio. Do not necessarily expect a very dark, powerful Sicilian red: Nerello Mascalese can be relatively pale in colour, with pronounced acidity, tannins and aromas of red fruit, spices and herbs. Finally, if you find it by the glass, also try an Etna Spumante DOC or a rosé. Sparkling wines made on the volcano are a good reminder of the fundamental role played here by freshness and altitude.
A tip for curious wine lovers: if the list includes both a ‘basic’ Etna Rosso and a contrada wine from the same producer, order them together. Rather than trying to decide which is ‘better’, see if you can work out what changes.
Which area should you choose? East and north reveal two different sides of Etna
The easiest mistake is trying to see Nicolosi, Zafferana, Milo, Linguaglossa, Passopisciaro and Randazzo all in the same day. You may be able to draw the route on a map, but with mountain roads, two-hour visits and tastings, it would quickly turn into a marathon. It is much better to choose one slope at a time.
If this is your first experience and you are setting out from Catania, I would choose the eastern and south-eastern slopes, travelling from Viagrande towards Zafferana and Milo. This is the route that best captures the mountain-meets-sea character of the area, lets you explore Carricante in greater depth and offers plenty of opportunities to combine a winery visit with lunch. If, on the other hand, you already know Etna wines a little or are particularly interested in Nerello Mascalese, I would devote a second day to the northern slope, around Linguaglossa, Passopisciaro, Castiglione di Sicilia and Randazzo. This is where the concept of the contrada becomes especially clear (it is the slope with the highest concentration of producers).
Four wineries to know, and why to choose them
In Viagrande, Benanti is one of the most interesting choices if this is your first Etna tasting and you mainly want to understand the territory. The visit begins at the nineteenth-century estate at the foot of Monte Serra and may include the vineyard with old Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio vines, the historic palmento and tastings offering different levels of depth. The winery welcomes visitors by reservation and uses wines from different slopes specifically to illustrate Etna’s diversity.
In Milo, Barone di Villagrande is probably the winery that best captures the spirit of this itinerary: vineyards, a historic cellar, Etna cuisine and views. The estate offers guided tours and tastings, as well as a restaurant and wine resort. The kitchen works with local, seasonal ingredients and builds its dishes around the wines: a good option if you would rather enjoy one winery at a leisurely pace than stack up tasting after tasting. Booking is required.
Also in Milo, Maugeri is a more focused project that lets you explore the relationship between Carricante, terraced vineyards and the eastern slope. The vineyards are laid out across a system of terraces overlooking the sea, and the experience includes a visit to the vines and a tasting of the estate’s wines. It is an interesting choice if you want to avoid a very large winery and focus your visit on Milo and Etna Bianco Superiore.
For a complete change of scenery, head up towards Passopisciaro on the northern slope. Graci grows Nerello Mascalese and Carricante at around 600 to 1,000 metres above sea level and works vineyards in contrade such as Arcurìa, Feudo di Mezzo and Barbabecchi. The winery produces Etna Bianco and Rosso as well as several labels linked to individual vineyards and contrade. A tasting here becomes particularly interesting if you ask to compare an Etna Rosso with one or two contrada wines. It is probably the best stop for anyone who has already moved beyond the ‘white or red?’ stage and wants to start understanding why two Nerello Mascalese wines grown on the same volcano can tell completely different stories.
The one-day itinerary I would choose from Catania
For a first day, I would definitely choose East Etna, resisting the temptation to go all the way to Randazzo. Leave Catania in the morning and head towards Viagrande, where you can schedule your first winery visit. From there continue to Zafferana Etnea, also a good place for a short food stop, and then reach Milo. In Milo, book lunch or a second winery experience. If you have already done a full tasting in the morning, though, I would avoid another long succession of glasses: it is better to spend the afternoon in the village, walking through the vineyards or enjoying a long lunch with a view of the sea. Return to Catania in the late afternoon.
Randazzo, Linguaglossa and Passopisciaro deserve a second day dedicated to northern Etna. You can also combine them with the other places featured in Volare’s guide to what to see around Catania.
Don’t want to drive? That’s probably the best choice
There is one very practical point that no wine itinerary should ignore: tasting and driving do not mix. If nobody in your group wants to give up the glasses, the simplest solution is to book a transfer or choose an organised experience. For autumn 2026, the Wine Route offers two particularly interesting alternatives.
• The Etna Wine Bus leaves directly from Catania on Wednesdays and Sundays and combines the south-eastern side of Etna with visits and tastings at two wineries; the 2026 schedule runs until 20 December.
• The Etna Wine Train, meanwhile, departs from Linguaglossa and combines the Circumetnea Railway with the Wine Bus: it passes through Randazzo and includes two winery visits with tastings of wine and local products. In 2026 it is scheduled on Thursdays and Saturdays until 28 November. Dates and availability should, of course, always be checked before setting out.
Back in Catania: where to continue the tasting
A day among wineries does not have to end when you return to the city. In central Catania, Nelson Sicily Wine Bar, on Via Crociferi, is a good address for continuing to explore Sicilian and Etna wines by the glass and, above all, for getting advice on a bottle to take home. Another option is Barrique, on Via Etnea, already featured in Volare’s guide to where to have an aperitif in Catania, which highlights its wide selection of local and Italian labels.
Etna in autumn: the right season to slow down
There is one season when this journey takes on a particularly special atmosphere: autumn. The grape harvest on Etna is relatively late and, depending on altitude, exposure and the year, work in the vineyards can continue through September and October. Meanwhile, chestnuts, mushrooms, apples and other mountain produce begin to appear in the villages, while the vineyards’ summer green gives way to shades of yellow, red and copper.
To finish, remember that in the end the beauty of Etna’s wines lies not only in what you find in the glass, but in finally being able to see the landscape inside it.
