Destination: Catania

Beneath the Catania that everyone knows and sees, lies another one. Or rather several: several layers, several underground cities… all hidden but can be explored by those wanting to leave the beaten path and find new thrills.

Underground Catania emerges from a historic stratification that led to the modern city (mostly 18^th century) being built on top of previous Greek and Roman buildings.

The stones of Catania, to be found in many lanes in its old town centre, have stories to tell. You just have to know how to listen to them and want to discover a different city that truly has a lot to say.

The memory of the city is preserved by several cultural organisations that organise guided tours of the underground routes, also a good way to encourage the preservation and promotion of places and assets of definite historical and artistic interest.

More curious tourists can follow truly unique urban trekking trails, most of which wind through the old town centre in search of remnants and relics of the past.

Under the surface of present-day Catania, you can discover Roman and Byzantine relics. You can take a journey into the history of the Christianity at its origins, and as well as places of historical and archaeological interest, you can also admire various places of enormous geological interest.

Artistic, architectural and natural beauties await anyone who wants to discover them, not by stopping on the surface, but by going deeper down. As is true in several Italian cities, Catania has its underground version too, with very interesting and picturesque itineraries for both history lovers and the simply curious who are interested in an experience different from the usual organised tourist activities.

When visiting underground Catania, you can admire the remains of Roman domus and extensive thermal baths, richly decorated with mosaics and elaborate stuccos.

There is no shortage of remains of buildings and monumental complexes, like theatres, ancient sanctuaries and aqueducts. The Christian city is fully represented by places of worship particularly linked to the patron saints Agatha and Euplius, while the medieval and modern city reveal remains that survived the eruption of Etna in 1669 and the devastating earthquake of 1693.

More info and booking: http://www.cataniasotterranea.it/

When you think of Carnival you probably think of the one in Rio de Janeiro or, a little closer to home, Venice or Viareggio. But Catania too has plenty to offer during this season of fun and frolicking.

The Carnival of Acireale (from 17 February to 5 March 2019) is a great example of how Sicily can prove a fascinating, charming destination even at this time of year.

Acireale’s carnival is generally considered to be the best in Sicily (and one of the top three in Italy). Like the Viareggio carnival, it features a parade of floats decorated with papier-mâché creations that often depict politicians, traditional masks and characters from the world of show business.

The floats you see during Carnival at Acireale are some of the most elaborate in the world, and often include sophisticated mechanics, hydraulics and lighting.

The island’s festivities surrounding Carnival date back a very long way, and it is thought that the Carnival of Acireale is the oldest in Italy.

It is first officially mentioned in a document of 1594. One of this carnival’s most famous masks dates from 1667 and is known as Abbatazzu. The traditions of Carnival in this region are therefore deeply rooted.

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Staying in Catania, there is also the Carnival of Misterbianco (from 23 February to 5 March 2019) boasting culture, theatre, art, food, music and all sorts of celebrations, with an incredibly diverse calendar of events that offers something to suit even the most eclectic of tastes.

One of the events that has become a real fixture in the Misterbianco calendar is the traditional parade of Sicily’s most beautiful costumes which works its way through some of the most famous streets in the old town and sees participants dancing or perching on the stunning decorated floats.

There is no shortage of street performers, games and distractions for little ones, as well as opportunities to take in a bit of culture, including guided museum tours and numerous other fascinating initiatives.

But probably the best thing about this carnival, and all of Sicily’s carnivals, is the incredible atmosphere. The event makes reference to and draws on features of other places and carnivals, both Italian and international, but packages it all up into something unique, original and guaranteed to provide a real thrill.

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The Festa di Sant’Agata is the most important religious celebration in the city of Catania. Agata is the patron Saint of this city and is remembered in many ways throughout the year.

The Festa di Sant’Agata runs from the 3^rd– 5^th of February, 12^th February and again on August 17^th. Each date is linked to a different recurrence: In February the martyrdom of the Saint is remembered whereas, in August the day in which her remains were brought back to Catania, after they were stolen from Constantinople.

Every year, from February 3^rd to February 5^th, over a million believers and tourists gather in Catania. Many Catanese people who now live a stable life in other parts of Italy, return to their respective city in honour of Santa Patrona.

The origins of the veneration of Sant’Agata are very ancient and this tradition still lives on, today more than ever. The martyrdom of the Catanese Saint dates back to the year 252, the year in which the first testimonies of strong popular devotion towards this virgin, who had devoted herself to martyrdom in order to defend her honour and not to deny her faith, were made.

The people of Catania are very proud of this young woman, who turned against the will of the Roman proconsul and therefore, lost her life.

As is often the case with folk festivals, it is not merely a religious element; it seems that at the beginning of February, even before the birth of Agata, a pagan festival was celebrated, probably dedicated to the Goddess Isis.

The first record of a festival specifically dedicated to Sant’Agata is on 17^th August 1126, when the remains of the Saint, stolen in 1040, were brought home by two soldiers, Gilberto and Goselino, from the city of Constantinople, where they had been for over 80 years.

On that occasion the Bishop of Catania, Maurizio, went to the castle of Jaci to welcome them. Word spread rapidly among the citizens and they poured into the streets of the city, giving rise to spontaneous and improvised celebrations.

As we have said, nowadays there are several days that Catania dedicates to the memory of Agata, but amongst them, the most exciting is undoubtedly February 4^th, when a traditional procession takes place through the streets of the city centre and shows “fercolo”, a refined work of silver that contains the relics of the Saint.

The “candelore” fashion show is also very special: large votive candles covered with handcrafted decorations, flowers, gilded wood puttini, saints and scenes of martyrdom.

There are festivals and traditions dedicated to the cult of the dead all over the world, to commemorate and remember, think of the day of the dead in Mexico for example.

Even in Italy we have different ways to remember and honour the deceased. In Catania ‘The Festival of the Dead’ has its own specific traditions that often differ from other areas of Sicily and customs elsewhere in the world.

Despite having an obvious melancholic element to it, The Festival of the dead in Catania does have some real party features; there are gifts, typical desserts and markets.

It is an ancient festival with clear pagan roots. It was adopted by Christianity around the 10th century but its history began a long time before. The ancient Romans already celebrated Parentalia between 13th and 21st February, whilst the Celts celebrated the Night of Samhain between the 31st October and 1st November, dedicated to the dead and souls.

Even today on 2nd November, The Festival of the Dead is still very much alive. Customs and traditions that you would expect in other areas of Sicily are incorporated into the celebrations, such as giving sweets or toys to children and organising fairs.

The custom of giving to little ones and telling them that it comes from a deceased relative is a very ancient one. It comes from an old tale in which a father leaves home in order to find work elsewhere. When the youngest of his four sons is sick with an incurable illness, the mother notifies his father, who immediately begins the journey back home.

Not being able to afford a carriage, the father decides to travel by foot, even at night, to get as close as possible and to be able to pay the medical costs for his son with the little he had left. After a day of travelling, he found himself in front of the village cemetery, it was the first day of November. Remembering his dead father, he took the opportunity to visit him and ask him to watch over his seriously ill grandson. At the foot of the tombstone, he found a wooden toy soldier and so he put it in his pocket thinking of giving it to his son.

When he arrived home at night, he hugged his sons, his wife and then gave the little wooden soldier to his little boy. It was the night of the 1st of November, the little boy continued to sleep with his little toy and when morning came he was able to get up out of bed, completely healed. In remembrance of this story, the people of Catania give their children little toys every year.

Even the gastronomic element is lauded, from festive desserts there are the typical Bones of the dead, which are sweet and particularly hard biscuits, and then there’s the Rame di Napoli (the copper of Naples) chocolate biscuits with a soft centre.



Pagan and Christian traditions are mixed in Catania and give life to this unique festival, widely celebrated by its people and which is obviously a good way to remember their lost loved ones, keeping them close and passing on memories to new generations.

In the wake of the outstanding success of the Escher exhibit, now Palazzo della Cultura of Catania is hosting the great French artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec with an exhibit containing 150 of his works coming from the Herakleidon Museum in Athens.

Posters, lithographs, drawings, illustrations and watercolor displays do not only reveal the genius work of this original artist, but highlight the Parisian atmosphere of the late 19th century as well. Period furniture, photographs and videos have been added to the installation to recreate that Bohemian Paris of the day.

Henri-Marie-Raymond de Toulouse-Lautrec-Monfa was of origins, but led his life marked by suffering and solitude on the fringe of society. He suffered from pycnodysostosis, a genetic bone disease, that basically made him a social outcast due to his deformity.

While haunting Paris’ brothels, which are frequently depicted in his works, he caught syphilis. In addition to this, he led a disorderly life and was an alcoholic.

He died at the early age of 37, but even if his life was short, it was definitely eventful and so much so that he produced over 700 paintings and 5000 drawings coming from his extraordinary creative flair.

He is, without a doubt, one of the most important figures of late 19th century art, and even someone who is not an art expert can easily recognize his style, not to mention his favorite subjects: ballerinas and prostitutes.

The Catania exhibit paying homage to him was built by Gruppo Arthemisia, curated by Stefano Zuffi and sponsored by the regional Office of Cultural Heritage and Sicilian Identity, with the support of the Municipality of Catania.

It can be visited at Palazzo della Cultura di Catania (Palazzo Platamone) every day from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. until the 3^rd of June, 2018.

One of the goals, without a doubt, of this marvelous exhibit is to introduce young people, families and other targets who are usually not standard museum goers to great art. The works of Toulouse-Lautrec undoubtedly have the strength necessary to achieve that goal.