In summer, Nantes moves to a different rhythm: walking along the Erdre, crossing the Loire by boat, sitting down at a guinguette as evening falls or escaping to the Muscadet vineyards. A city to enjoy close to the water, at a relaxed pace and full of local atmosphere.
Nantes, a city that breathes between rivers
To capture the essence of Nantes, you need to get close to the water: the broad, majestic Loire; the intimate, verdant Erdre; the Sèvre, to the south; and all the quays, footbridges, small ports and terraces that become social hubs in summer.
Here, water is more than just a backdrop. It’s a means of getting around, meeting up with friends, strolling and spending the afternoon. As soon as the good weather arrives, Nantes invites you to slow down: take a stroll along the riverbanks, have an impromptu picnic, enjoy a drink with views of the river or hop on a boat to see the city from a different perspective.
The Erdre: Nantes at its greenest and calmest
The Erdre is one of the city’s great refuges. Narrower and more sheltered than the Loire, in some stretches it has an almost rural feel, with trees, jetties, moored boats and inviting walking paths.
A great way to start the day is to follow the river from the city centre, gradually moving towards the more green and open spaces. This route reveals a different side to Nantes: less monumental and more everyday, with joggers, families cycling, students sitting on the grass and small boats passing by quietly. For a more active experience, you can also enjoy the Erdre from the water, with activities such as canoeing, kayaking and paddleboarding available at various locations in the city and the surrounding area. In summer, a good way to escape the heat and see the banks from a privileged position is to rent a boat or join a guided outing.
Practical tip: if you want to go kayaking or paddleboarding, it is best to book in advance, especially at weekends. Morning or late afternoon sessions are also better, as the light is softer and the temperature is more pleasant.
The Loire: crossing, observing, pausing
The Loire has another character. It is wider, more open, more changeable. As it passes through Nantes, it recalls how closely the city has always been connected to trade, boats, journeys and the Atlantic. Its banks do not have just one personality: there are urban quays, cultural spaces, walking areas, terraces and corners where the river becomes almost silent.
One of the easiest ways to experience it is to cross it. The Navibus, which connects Nantes with Trentemoult, operates as a public river transport service. Despite the short journey, it completely changes your perception of the city. In just a few minutes, you can travel from urban Nantes to the peaceful, colourful atmosphere of a riverside village.
You can also take longer river trips along the Erdre and the Loire, including on traditional toue-style boats, which allow you to observe the city and its surroundings from the water. This is particularly enjoyable at the end of the afternoon, when the sun sets and the buildings, trees and bridges are reflected in the river.
Guinguettes: summer in Nantes takes a seat at the table
If there is one word that sums up summer by the water in Nantes, it’s “guinguette”. These temporary or seasonal venues, closely linked to riverbanks, offer a combination of a bar, terrace, music, simple food, cultural programming and a local atmosphere. They are places to visit without too much ceremony, where you can have an aperitif, share a board of snacks, listen to a concert, eat something light, or simply stay and chat until the air cools.
In recent years, the number of guinguettes in Nantes and its metropolitan area has increased, with many setting up beside the Loire, the Erdre or the Sèvre, or even among vineyards. Nantes Métropole publishes an updated list of guinguettes each season, including their addresses and opening dates, which is useful as many only operate from spring to late summer.
The trick is to choose according to your plans. For an urban afternoon, look for a guinguette that is easy to reach from the centre or by public transport. For a more rural setting, there are options in nearby municipalities, beside small ports, meadows or vineyard areas. Some have a lively atmosphere with concerts, while others are quieter and perfect for couples, friends or families.
Practical tip: Check the opening times before you go. Many guinguettes are not open every day and some depend on the weather. At the most popular ones, it is advisable to arrive early to secure a spot. When there is a concert, the atmosphere tends to liven up quickly.
Trentemoult: a riverside escape with village charm
Trentemoult is one of those places that works especially well in summer, as it doesn’t require much planning. Simply cross the Loire, wander through the colourful streets, head down to the riverbank, and take a seat for a drink while enjoying the view. Formerly a village of fishermen and sailors, it is now part of Rezé, but still has a strong identity. Its relaxed air, created by painted façades, plants by the doors, narrow lanes and waterside terraces, contrasts with central Nantes.
A perfect half-day escape. You can go before lunch, grab some food and then head back in the afternoon, or cross over at the end of the day for an aperitif with stunning views of the Loire. The short, easy Navibus journey is already part of the plan, and there’s always that sense of small adventure that comes with boarding a boat, even when it’s being used as public transport.
Practical tip: Trentemoult can get busy on sunny days, so book ahead if you want to eat on a specific terrace. If your plans are more flexible, simply walk around and have a drink without organising too much in advance.
Towards the Vignoble Nantais: Muscadet and countryside air
Summer by the water in Nantes can also extend to the vineyards. South-east of the city lies the Vignoble Nantais, the land of Muscadet, a white wine closely associated with the Atlantic, the Loire and local gastronomy. This excursion allows you to swap the urban river for a landscape of vines, villages, wineries and valleys. This is an ideal option for those who want to experience nature, gastronomy and a more relaxed visit. Some areas of the vineyard can be reached by train from Nantes, for example Clisson, Le Pallet and La Haye-Fouassière. This makes it possible to plan a car-free day out, provided you organise it well.
The plan can include walking among the vines, visiting a winery, tasting Muscadet and enjoying a simple meal. However, it is best to book visits in advance, as not all wineries welcome spontaneous visitors and opening times can vary considerably.
Practical tip: if you’re planning a wine tasting trip, the train is a great option. If you plan to buy bottles, make sure you know how you will take them home comfortably beforehand.
A perfect day by the water
A simple itinerary could begin with a morning walk along the River Erdre, when the city is still quiet and the sunlight filters through the trees. Then, you could stop for lunch in the centre or have a picnic near the river. In the afternoon, cross the Loire by Navibus to Trentemoult and take a leisurely stroll by the water before enjoying a drink.
As evening falls, a guinguette provides the ideal ending: an outdoor table, music if there is a programme, something cool in the glass and simple food to share. You do not need much more. Nantes, in summer, is enjoyed exactly like this: letting the water organise the day.
