Discovering Sardinia’s hidden gems: here’s our list of best experiences to enjoy on the Sant’Antioco peninsula.
In our articles we’ve been taking you on a journey of discovery to the most stunning corners of Sardinia: from the crystal-clear waters of La Maddalena to the golden beaches of Cagliari and Alghero; from the ancient mysteries of the nuraghi to the unspoiled nature of Asinara, with hiking trails offering spectacular sea views and a cuisine combining land and sea. But this time we’ll be exploring somewhere off the beaten track, a gem that we’ve been keeping under wraps: the Sant’Antioco peninsula, one of southern Sardinia’s lesser known but most authentic treasures.
A bridge across time and water
The Sant’Antioco peninsula, connected to Sardinia by a man-made isthmus just over 3km long, lies in the southwest of the main island, in the heart of the region of Sulcis. It covers an area of around 109km², making it Italy’s fourth largest island in terms of area (although it’s now considered a peninsula). It has two main hubs: Sant’Antioco, the vibrant and picturesque capital, and Calasetta, a small fishing village where the Tabarchino dialect is spoken.
Getting there is easy: it’s just over an hour’s drive from Cagliari, crossing a landscape that changes around every bend — Mediterranean scrub, pink salt pans inhabited by flamingos and barren, windblown hills. But it’s once you reach the bridge connecting the island to the mainland that you realise you’ve stepped into a different world: secluded beaches where the air is salty and the windswept trees seem to point the way, villages where time seems to pass more slowly, fishermen mending their nets at the harbour, widows dressed in black sitting on their steps, watching the world go by.
Sant’Antioco is somewhere you don’t just visit: you can hear it, breathe it and live it.
Some insider tips: how to have fun in Sant’Antioco
To help you discover the true soul of the peninsula, we thought we’d reveal its best kept secrets. So here are our suggestions; guard them as if they were secrets whispered in your ear at sunset, over a glass of Carignano del Sulcis.
The most beautiful (and least crowded) beaches
If you come here for the beaches, you won’t be disappointed. The most famous, of course, is Maladroxia, great for families, with its fine sand and shallow waters. But if you want to feel truly alone, you’ll need to go on a bit further.
Local tip 📍💬 Go to Coaquaddus early in the morning, when the light is still golden and the beach is deserted. Walk over to the rocks, take off your shoes and be amazed by the colours of the water. Or explore Turri, with its promontory dominated by a Spanish watchtower and the small coves nestling between the rocks.
Spiaggia Grande in Calasetta also deserves a special mention, with its pure white sand dunes that look as if they’ve been dusted with icing sugar. And if you’re looking for an even more remote experience, there’s the area of Capo Sperone, on the southern tip: no facilities to speak of, but beauty in spades.
Hiking and walking: between the sea and the wind
Walking is the best way to get in tune with the soul of Sant’Antioco. The mistral blows strongly, the fragrance of the scrub envelops you, and every step rewards you with a view worth snapping — or simply committing to memory.
Local tip 📍💬There’s a path that starts from Sa Guardia de su Turcu and leads to Capo Sperone, along the coast. It’s a fairly quiet route, past junipers and volcanic rocks, with stunning views. Make sure you take some water, a hat and enough time to stop and look around you.
Another unmissable route is the one leading to the Nuragic settlement of Grutti ‘e Acqua, nestling in the peacefulness of the inland hills, where you can feel the energy of its ancient past. Alternatively, if cycling is your thing, the routes alongside the salt pans are idyllic at sunset, with pink and orange hues, and the flamingos silhouetted against the sky.
History and nature: an interwoven fabric
There’s more to Sant’Antioco than just beaches: it also has a layered and ancient history. The island was a Phoenician, then Punic, then Roman colony. Nowadays you can visit the catacombs of Sant’Antioco Martire, one of the most important vestiges of early Christianity in the Mediterranean, or the Tophet, a sacred outdoor Phoenician sanctuary, associated with rituals and ancient beliefs.
Local tip 📍💬Not everyone knows that the Archaeological Museum Ferruccio Barreca houses some amazing finds, including amphora, jewellery and votive artifacts. Then there’s also the Sea Silk Museum, where Chiara Vigo, a master spinner, still turns sea silk into fabric, as the Phoenicians once did.
When it comes to nature, the island is a haven for numerous species: cormorants, seagulls, herons and the flamingos, as mentioned earlier, that inhabit the salt pans. There’s no lack of geological interest either: the rust-coloured volcanic cliffs give the island an almost lunar-like appearance in certain parts.
Unmissable towns and scenes
Sant’Antioco town is a maze of colourful streets, boats in the harbour, artisan workshops and small restaurants with tables outside, where the fish is served fresh as can be. Make sure you take a stroll along the seafront at sunset to take in the views of the boats and the salt pans.
Calasetta, meanwhile, is a little world of its own. They still speak Tabarchino here, a Ligurian-Portuguese dialect that arrived with the colonists from Tabarca, a small island off the coast of Tunisia. The architecture is white, square, almost African in appearance. And the people are friendly; straight-talking but genuine.
Local tip 📍💬 Go to Calasetta and try the fish couscous, tasting of the Mediterranean and age-old stories. And after dinner, admire the sunset as the rays light up the Mangiabarche lighthouse; the wind ruffles your hair and the harbour lights resemble stars reflected in the water.
An invitation to lose yourself
Sant’Antioco is not just a destination: it’s a journey into the most authentic part of Sardinia. Here, life moves at a different pace, the sea has a thousand hues, and the people wear genuine smiles. It’s the perfect place for those in search of a less obvious beauty, for those wanting to walk leisurely, listen to the wind and to the island talking to them.
Whether you want to relax on a deserted beach, explore Phoenician ruins, savour the most delicious bottarga you’ve ever tasted or simply watch the sun go down over the sea with a drink in your hand — Sant’Antioco is waiting for you.
And who knows; maybe, as so many find out, once you’ve discovered this treasure, you’ll never want to leave.
