Destination: Zaragoza

Zaragoza enjoys an outstanding historic and artistic heritage thanks to the different cultures and civilisations that left their mark on the city, including Iberians, Romans, Christians, Jews and Muslims. It was the latter who bequeathed to the city one of its most beautiful and breathtaking monuments: the Aljafería, an 11th-century fortress that today sits in the heart of the city centre.

In the early eighth century, the Muslim invasion swept across the Iberian peninsula, and what had until then been Caesaraugusta (the Roman Zaragoza, which had already been converted to Christianity), became known as Saraqusta under Muslim control. Until the Christian reconquest four centuries later, Saraqusta– also called Medina Albaida, or “white city”– experienced periods of great political and cultural prosperity and even became the capital of the Upper March of Al-Andalus and of one of the most important taifas, or independent principalities. This prosperity gave rise to one of Zaragoza’s most beautiful, breathtaking monuments, which today is a mecca for tourists visiting the city on the banks of the Ebro.

The oldest part of the monument, which has been declared a World Heritage Site, dates from the ninth century. The “Troubadour’s Tower”, a rectangular enclosure that inspired Verdi’s famous opera Il trovatore, was built at that time and has been the focal point of intriguing legends. For centuries, many claimed to have seen a mysterious beautiful lady dressed in white in the tower, supposedly the ghost of a maiden who would appear to presage the death of some unfortunate soul. In addition to the Troubadour’s Tower and its worrying ghost, the Aljafería’s other and much bigger area dates from the 11th century. This part of the building, the Islamic palace, was commissioned by Abu Jafar Ahmad ibn Al-Muqtadir and encompasses the ramparts and its semi-circular towers, as well as the beautifully decorated mihrab, or chapel, topped with a horseshoe arch and located inside the building.

As time went by, the building underwent several additions and changes, the original Islamic architecture giving way to a ride range of artistic styles. For example, the beautiful Mudejar palace was added by Peter IV after the reconquest of the city. Bigger still was the refurbishment carried out in the 15th century by the Catholic Monarchs, who used the fortress’ rooms as a royal palace. Other gorgeous spaces waiting to be discovered include the San Martín and Santa Isabel courtyards and the Golden Hall.

The Aljafería also took on other functions, such as housing the Holy Chalice, which today can be found in the Cathedral of Valencia and which some say might be the very chalice used by Jesus Christ at the Last Supper, the Holy Grail. From 1485, the Aljafería was the location of the prisons used by the Spanish Inquisition and, centuries later, served as military barracks, being one of the main scenes of the sieges of Zaragoza during the Peninsular War against Napoleon’s troops. Currently, part of the fortress houses the Aragonese Regional Parliament, while the rest of the building is open to visitors. This is without doubt a real historic and artistic gem that can’t be missed during a trip to Zaragoza.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION:

Address: Calle de los Diputados

Bus routes: 34, 36 and the tourist bus (Calle Diputados), 21, 32, 33, 51 and 52 (Avenida de Madrid-Aljafería stop).

Opening hours:

• April to October: every day from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 4.30 p.m. to 8 p.m. Guided tours at 10.30 a.m., 11.30 a.m., 12.30 p.m., 4.30 p.m., 5.30 p.m. and 6.30 p.m.
• November to March: from Monday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Sundays: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Guided tours at 10.30 a.m., 11.30 a.m., 12.30 p.m., 4.30 p.m. and 5.30 p.m.

On some Thursdays and Fridays the fortress is closed to visitors to allow for sessions of the Aragonese Regional Parliament.

Entrance fee: Adults: 5 euros. Students and adults aged over 65: 1 euro. Children aged between 0 and 12: free. Entry is free on Sundays.

Every October, the streets of Zaragoza fill up with music, entertainment and shows to welcome its biggest celebration, the Fiestas del Pilar (or the Pilares, as they’re affectionately nicknamed by the locals).

There are few European cities that can boast such a lively, busy celebration, and for almost 10 days (this year from 6 to 14 October), the whole city throws itself into the dozens of activities and festivities taking place across the Aragonese capital, filling the streets with people from near and far. On certain days, such as the main feast day on 12 October, the city’s population doubles, and it’s impossible not to get swept up in the fun party atmosphere.

The festival’s origins are rooted in religious tradition, which holds that the Virgin Mary miraculously appeared to the apostle Saint James in 40 A.D., when Zaragoza was part of the Roman Empire. According to that tradition, the Virgin appeared at the spot now occupied by one of the city’s undisputed icons, the Basilica de Nuestra Senora del Pilar. The city has commemorated the visit by its patron every 12 October since 1640. Today, however, the festival’s religious nature has taken a back seat, although it continues to be a core element of the celebrations, and in recent decades the event has become a true festival for the people, dedicated to music, shows, fun and happiness, all enhanced by the locals’ friendly, cheerful nature.

The main feast day, 12 October, sees the Offering of the Flowers, a spectacular procession during which hundreds of thousands of people– last year more than 280,000 took part– pass through the streets of central Zaragoza in regional or national dress (as well as Zaragoza, participants flock from other regions and countries), offering flowers to the Virgin, whose image is gradually covered by a beautiful, giant blanket of flowers in Plaza del Pilar. A similar Offering of the Fruit takes place the next day and, as its name suggests, consists of offering fruit and other food to the Virgin.

But beyond the offerings and other religious and traditional activities, such as the Glass Rosary, there’s room at the festival for many other activities that fill the streets with fun, day and night. Concerts and music events are undoubtedly one of the festival’s strong suits, with gigs (many of which are free) taking place in many spots across the city, including Plaza del Pilar. They showcase national and international talent and styles to suit all tastes, from pop to rock, jazz, electronica and hip hop. This year, posters advertised concerts by artists including Kase.O, Ara Malikian, Steve Aoki, Izal and Vetusta Morla, among many others.

The festival’s exceedingly long and tremendously full agenda also makes room for street entertainment, plays, cultural events, kids’ activities, parades, processions of giant floats and traditional large-headed characters, food tasting, street food, shows by folklore groups and spectacular fireworks, such as the ones that mark the end of the festivities. That’s in addition to the fairground, entertainment by members’ clubs and other attractions, such as events with young bulls.

If you’re not afraid of crowds, fun and endless nights of partying, Zaragoza and the Fiestas del Pilar await. Dig out your cachirulo (a traditional Aragonese scarf) and join the party!

MORE INFORMATION: Fiestas del Pilar (Zaragoza Council)