Zakynthos makes an immediate impression: coves of blue water, white cliffs and boats that seem to float above the sandy seabed. But in the south of the island there is a more delicate reason to travel slowly. Laganas Bay is one of the most important places in the Mediterranean for the loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta), which returns to these beaches each season to nest.
The Laganas Bay area is part of the National Marine Park of Zakynthos, created to protect coastal ecosystems, dunes, Posidonia seagrass meadows and endangered wildlife. In practice, this means that some beaches have opening times, cordoned-off areas and rules that may surprise travellers arriving with the idea of a conventional Greek island. These are not minor details. The turtles lay their eggs in the middle and upper parts of the sand; when the hatchlings emerge, they need to walk to the sea on their own; and light, noise or a misplaced step can disrupt a process that has been repeating for millions of years.
Key beaches in southern Zakynthos
To understand where it all happens, it helps to look at the map of the south. Laganas Bay stretches between the Keri area and the edge of Vasilikos, with beaches such as Laganas, Kalamaki, Dafni and Gerakas, as well as the small island of Marathonisi just off the coast. They do not all offer the same experience:
- Laganas is the most built-up and lively;
- Kalamaki is ideal for enjoying a wide beach with a slower, calmer atmosphere;
- Dafni and Gerakas are more sensitive areas, with an obvious natural character and more visible restrictions.
Kalamaki: a wide sandy beach and an easy pace
Kalamaki is a good place to start. Its pale sand, shallow water and the possibility of walking towards quieter corners make it a comfortable beach for a slow morning by the sea. As in other nesting areas, any activity should be kept close to the shoreline and all signs must be respected. A gesture as simple as placing your towel near the water, not behind the structures that protect the nests, helps leave free the part of the beach that the turtles need. As evening approaches, it is time to leave: nesting beaches are not places for night walks or torch-lit photos.
Dafni: a beach to visit with care
Dafni, on the Vasilikos peninsula, requires even more careful attention. The access already makes it clear that you are entering a fragile space: Mediterranean landscape, fewer buildings and the feeling of a broad beach where nature sets the pace. It is perfect for those seeking calm waters and a simple day out, but it requires the attitude of a guest. Do not move signs, approach nests or cross dunes. It is also best not to bring items that could be left behind: lightweight plastics, cigarette ends, balloons or wrappers are real threats to hatchlings, birds and marine life.
Gerakas: natural beauty and a nesting area
For many people, Gerakas is one of the most special beaches on Zakynthos. Its tongue of sand and clay promontory create an image very different from the turquoise-water picture-postcard that dominates the island. It is also one of the best-known nesting areas, so access is usually regulated and the atmosphere invites a short, quiet and mindful visit. The recommendation here is simple: arrive early, take up as little space as possible and accept that the real appeal is not to “do everything”, but to spend a few hours without interfering.
Marathonisi, Turtle Island
The excursion to Marathonisi, known as Turtle Island, can be the most memorable moment of your trip if it is chosen well. The island is uninhabited, lies within Laganas Bay and owes its nickname both to its shape and to its importance for Caretta caretta. Its main beach, with white sand and very shallow water, has marked-off areas; in some places visitors may remain only near the shoreline. There is not enough natural shade, umbrellas are not allowed and the heat can be intense, so it is worth bringing a reusable water bottle, a hat and sea-friendly sun protection.
The way you get there matters too. There are boat taxis from Keri, Laganas or Agios Sostis, organised excursions and small boats for hire. For a responsible trip, the best choice is to opt for operators that work with small groups, respect prohibited areas, avoid anchoring in sensitive zones and do not turn turtle watching into a chase. A three-hour tour can be enough: sail across the bay, circle Marathonisi, make a short swimming stop and approach the Keri caves without overcrowding the day or the environment.
Watching turtles from the sea: emotion at a distance
Seeing a turtle from a boat is moving, but it is important to remember that it is not an attraction. Good observation practices are very specific: few boats around the same animal, minimum speed, silence, a safe distance and limited time. Turtles must not be touched, fed, chased or approached by jumping into the water to “swim with turtles”. If a turtle comes close, the responsible thing is to stay still and let it choose its path. The best photo is the one that does not change its behaviour.
It also helps to manage expectations. Some days bring sightings and some days do not. That uncertainty is part of the natural experience. Be wary of excursions that promise guaranteed close contact or encourage several boats to surround the animals. Ask before booking: how many people will be on board? What distance do they keep? Do they follow the Marine Park code of conduct? Do they avoid the hours with the highest concentration of boats? The operator’s answer says a lot about the kind of tourism you are funding.
A perfect, responsible day in the south
A perfect, responsible day in southern Zakynthos could start early in Kalamaki or Dafni, when the light is soft and the beach is still breathing. Then comes a simple lunch in a nearby taverna, avoiding packaged food in protected areas. In the mid-afternoon, take a short boat trip from Keri or Agios Sostis to Marathonisi and the caves, with time to swim in clear water without stepping into closed areas or leaving any waste behind. To finish, enjoy a quiet sunset in Keri.
Travelling to Zakynthos with awareness is not at the expense of pleasure. It enhances it. Swimming in shallow water, walking on golden sand, watching the silhouette of a turtle come up to breathe and understanding that our presence should be light. Laganas Bay shows that tourism and conservation can coexist, but only if visitors accept a few basic rules: take up less space, listen more, buy better and leave without a trace. On an island this beautiful, the most valuable memory should not be having been close to a turtle, but having known how to keep the right distance.
