Genoa archivos - VOLARE MAGAZINE

A weekend in Genoa is a brief trip amidst sea, history and irresistible aromas. From the historic centre to the Porto Antico, all the way to the village of Boccadasse: an evergreen itinerary to discover the soul of “La Superba”.

Genoa, the perfect city for a getaway in any season

Genoa is one of those cities that never fails to surprise. You see it from the plane window – squeezed in between sea and mountains, all clinging to the slopes and full of light – and you wonder how so much can fit into such a vertical space. And yet it does: centuries of maritime history, aristocratic palaces, secret little squares, top-level museums, sea-view paths, neighbourhoods with ancient charm, all topped off with its Ligurian cuisine, fragrant like freshly crushed basil.

Whether you arrive in winter with the salty wind whipping the quays of the Porto Antico, or in summer with the sunlight caressing the pastel-coloured palaces, Genoa always remains true to itself: authentic, straightforward, a little rough at first but capable of winning you over with touches of everyday poetry. It is a perfect destination for an “evergreen” weekend because it changes with the seasons without ever really changing. And above all, because in 48 hours you can see a lot, taste a lot and live a lot.

Here, then, is a sensorial, historical and gastronomic itinerary for your Genoese weekend, alternating walks through the alleyways, sea-salted panoramas and little coastal havens.

1. **Happily getting lost in the caruggi of the historic centre**

The best way to understand Genoa is to plunge into it as you would dive into a novel: without knowing what awaits on the next page. The caruggi, the most densely-packed area of medieval alleyways in Europe, is a fascinating labyrinth where every step is an encounter. Scents of freshly baked focaccia, glimpses of votive Madonnas, historic shops resisting the passage of time, unexpected little squares that open up like breathing spaces.

Start from Via Garibaldi, elegant and monumental, with the Palazzi dei Rolli showcasing the mercantile power of sixteenth-century Genoa. Then slip into the narrower streets: Via della Maddalena, Via dei Macelli di Soziglia, San Luca. Every corner is a surprise.

Stop for a “Genoese-style” break: a piece of focaccia, oily in just the right way (strictly eaten with your hands), a warm farinata or a fried panissa to eat on the go. These specialities offer the gift of comfort in any season.

And don’t forget to look up: in Genoa, treasures are often right above your head.

2. Strolling around the Porto Antico, between maritime history and sea air

The Porto Antico is where Genoa breathes in the sea from every angle. Renovated in the 1990s, it is now a large square overlooking the water, where the wind intermingles with laughter, skateboards, museums and families out for a walk.

In summer it is bright and lively; in winter it offers a theatrical atmosphere, with the sky reflected in the water in a thousand shades.

A walk here is almost a ritual: from the Bigo by Renzo Piano to the tanks of the Aquarium that house such fascinating species and up to the hill of Salita San Giovanni, which provides evocative views. You can sit and watch the ferries departing for Sardinia, sip a coffee while watching the waves or simply wander footloose.

And then there is the Lanterna, the lighthouse symbol of the city, standing proud like an ancient guardian. If the weather is clear, it is worth following the visitor route to reach it on foot to get the feeling of being in touch with Genoa’s maritime identity.

3. The marvels of the Rolli and the palaces of the doges

Genoa is an aristocratic city without ostentation, and its historic palaces are treasure chests best explored unhurriedly. The Palazzi dei Rolli, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, were once the residences that the most illustrious families offered to host ambassadors and dignitaries visiting the Republic of Genoa.

Visiting some of them is like leafing through an old album: frescoed halls narrating classical myths, inner courtyards designed to impress guests, scenic staircases worthy of a theatrical production.

Whether you choose Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco or the magnificent Palazzo Reale near the Via Balbi area, you will get the feeling that time flows differently there – at a more baroque, grandiose rhythm. A perfect activity in winter, but equally pleasant in summer when you’re looking for a bit of artistic cool.

4. Climbing up to the panoramic viewpoints to see Genoa from above

Genoa is not just a city to walk through: it is a city to look at from above. It’s from there that you truly understand its theatrical shape, that natural stage made of hills, rooftops and sea.

An all-time classic is the Spianata Castelletto. You reach it with the liberty-style lift from Piazza Portello – a little trip back in time in its own right – and then the great stage of the grey rooftops, domes and the distant port appears before you.

From here, Genoa almost looks like an imaginary city. You’ll want to stay there for hours, perhaps with a lemon granita in summer or a hot chocolate on colder days.

If you have more time, the forts on the hills (Forte Sperone, Forte Diamante) also offer trails and spectacular panoramas. Perfect in spring and autumn, but also atmospheric in winter when the air is clearer.

5. **Diving into flavours: pesto, trofie, anchovies and other delights**

You cannot talk about Genoa without referring to its cuisine. Here the flavours are simple but deep, fragrant and intense, like a day at the seaside.

A plate of trofie pasta with pesto is a bright green caress; cima alla genovese recounts an ancient home-cooking tradition; trenette al basilico have the power to change your mood even on grey days.

And then there are the anchovies: baked, stuffed, marinated. A humble fish? Perhaps. An absolute delicacy? Certainly.

Focaccia deserves a chapter of its own. The good kind, the one with coarse salt that crunches between your teeth, is an almost spiritual experience to enjoy at least once a day. Breakfast with focaccia? In Genoa you can – and indeed, you must.

Regardless of the season, Ligurian cuisine is an embrace: light but flavourful, simple but never boring.

6. A walk in Boccadasse, the enchanting seaside village

Boccadasse is a little gem that feels lifted from a watercolour painting. Pastel-coloured houses overlooking the sea, fishing nets laid out in the sun, the little pebble beach capturing the whispers and laughter from passers-by.

It is easy to reach from the city centre – even with a pleasant walk along the Corso Italia seafront – and is one of the most romantic spots on the Ligurian Riviera. Perfect in summer, of course, but incredibly poetic even in winter, when the village comes alive with its residents and the sea takes on a heavier, more evocative character.

Sit on the low wall, order a cone of artisanal ice cream if it’s warm, or a fragrant savoury herb pie if the day is cool. Watching the boats rocking gently will be the “postcard moment” of your weekend.

7. Quick excursions to Nervi and its seaside promenade

If you still have some time, go to Nervi. This is one of the most fascinating areas near the city, and the famous Anita Garibaldi Promenade is probably one of the most beautiful walks in Italy: a long ribbon suspended between rocks and waves, where the sea comes so close it feels like you can touch it.

On summer days, the light bounces off the water; in spring, the colours of the Nervi Parks explode; and in autumn and winter, the wind smells of storm and the landscape turns more dramatic.

Also not to be missed are the museums of Villa Luxoro and the Gallery of Modern Art, cultural gems perfect for a quiet afternoon.

A weekend that stays with you

Genoa is a city to be experienced unhurriedly and with curiosity. It opens up slowly, like a book that wins you over one page at a time. In one weekend you can savour it, breathe it in, see it from above and from the sea, lose yourself in its alleyways and end up in a seaside village.

And when you leave, you’ll feel you have discovered a true, authentic, unique place. A place you’ll want to return to in every season.

Grey, industrial, and unsentimental. Home to the famously thrifty, no-nonsense Genovesi. In many respects, Genoa is still the victim of old, hard-to-kill stereotypes. Let’s face it: Genoa isn’t really at the top of anyone’s Valentine’s Day break destinations. Yet there are great reasons to change your mind; you just have to go to the right places… And fly there, obviously.

Landing in Genoa

Recently, CNN included Genoa in its ranking of the World’s 15 most spectacular airport landings. Why? The view. Leave your partner speechless, make sure you book a window seat on the right side of the plane. It begins as you swoop around Portofino hill, followed by the leisurely flight over Riviera di Levante, and then, there it is – Genoa. The Old Harbour that seems to embrace the sea. The myriad lights along the coastline turn the sea amber in the evening. Could your arrival be more romantic?

Sant’Ilario

Sant’Ilario is a sweet, romantic hilly Genoa district. Climb up the local creuze (red-brick paths), turning now and then to gaze upon the glistening Ligurian Sea. Take in the façade of the San Nicolò church, with its cobblestoned yard. Looking to pop the question but haven’t found the right moment? Well now’s your chance! under the branches of the trees in the square.

Nervi

Any self-respecting Genovese hung out with their teenage crushes or gone for strolls along its famous promenade. If the weather is good, bask in the sun and, even in winter, cuddle up with that special someone on one of the blue wooden benches. And if there’s a downpour? Do as in the best romcoms; take their hand and run along the seafront. At the end of the promenade you’ll find a recently renovated marina, where you can have a drink or a cosy intimate dinner.

The Levante districts

East Genoa is made up of a number of ancient seaside villages. Quinto, Quarto dei Mille, and Sturla are just some of its many beautiful spots. In some areas, the sea is so close that it reaches the street. Breathe in that salty ocean breeze as you walk.

Boccadasse

This is the meeting place for lovers, not just on Valentine’s Day. There’s an unwritten rule for young couples hang out on the rocks at the mouth of the narrow, deep inlet. If you are older – which doesn’t mean that you have to give up cuddling – walk down from the pastel-hued houses, stop at the pebble beach to listen to the sound of the sea, then climb up again. It’s just a stone’s throw away Santa Chiara promontory, where you will be able to see all the view to Camogli while the waves roar as they crash on the rocks below.

The city centre

The historic centre is an intricate maze of medieval alleys and buildings. If you are in the middle of the most beautiful story ever, or desperate to find it, you can’t miss the perfectly-named Piazza dell’Amor Perfetto, the Square of Perfect Love. This tiny, secluded spot hides a history of suffering, like every great love.

By boat

It’s time to leave the shady caruggi (alleys in the Genoese dialect) behind you and put to sea. On Isola delle Bariatte, in the Old Harbour, let yourself be enchanted by the myriad lights of the port. Then get ready for an exciting crossing. Near the aquarium, a ferry makes frequent trips to the Pegli district. Take a seat at the bow and enjoy Genoa in the best company, from the best point of view – the sea.

Pegli

Pegli has a wide promenade and beaches where you can sunbathe and, as Fabrizio De André, the songwriter who is one of Genoa’s most famous sons, said, “ask for a kiss and wish for a hundred more”. You can also visit the Villa Durazzo Pallavicini, which in 2017 won the award to the most beautiful park in Italy. In its romantic late 19^th-century gardens you will get lost among the maritime pines, neo-Gothic castles, and temples of Diana standing in the middle of tranquil ponds.

Piazza De Ferrari

The train to Piazza Principe station will take you back to the city centre. From there, it’s a gentle meander back to Piazza De Ferrari in the heart of the city. Stand in front of the spouts of its majestic fountain, with the Ducal Palace in the background, ask passers-by to take pictures of your romantic getaway in Genoa.

High on the hills

Time to look up. Take the cable car that goes up into the hills to Largo Zecca and get off at the end of the line, in the Righi area. There the city lies spread out at your feet like a beautiful carpet. Some easy nature trails start here, so you can breathe in the pure air and enjoy more breath-taking views.

Spianata Castelletto

The grand finale can only be in one place. From the city centre, take the public lift to Piazza Portello and, as the poet Giorgio Caproni said, get ready to reach heaven. Here is the most picturesque view of the city, where it seems you can almost touch the slate roofs of the historic centre. Beyond them, the cranes in the port stand out in a sea of changing colours. Towards the west, the unmistakable profile of the Genoa Lighthouse dominates the scene and seems to take you by the hand.

At this point, pull the person next to you close. Standing together before Genoa, give in to the power of love.

The beauty of Genoa

We know you’re already dreaming of your next trip to Northern Italy, so we’ve prepared this playlist, a compilation of current and classic tracks from local artists.

We asked for local artist, Alfa’s, favourite places. A good dinner by the sea, strolling amongst the paintings at the Palacio Ducal and finishing off by enjoying an evening at Porto Antico, are undeniably perfect things to do in the capital of La Liguria.

Hi Alfa, could you briefly introduce yourself to Volotea readers?

My name is Andrea, I‘m 18, I’m attending last year of classical studies in high school (Latin and Ancient Greek) and I make pop/rap Italian music. I‘ve played guitar and piano and sung since I was 7.

Does living in Genoa influence the music you make?

Definitely: some of the most important Italian singers and groups were born in Genoa, like Fabrizio De Andrè, Gino Paoli, Ivano Fossati, Luigi Tenco, Ricchi E Poveri, Ex-Otago, Tedua and Izi. For instance, I wrote my best songs in the early morning in a beach near my house, in front of the sea.

What would you recommend to someone who just booked a flight to northwest Italy but doesn’t know where to start?

A good place to start from is Milan: the area is filled with lots of shops, people, different activities; you are going to have fun there, for sure. If you wish, of course, Genoa will always welcome you with some stunning sceneries of our orange setting sun in the evening. Also places like Portofino, Bogliasco and Camaldoli are beautiful.

Which museums or art galleries are not to be missed?

Here in the city centre, inside Palazzo Ducale (which was the Doge’s Palace, basically) there are several galleries almost all the time: last one was about the main artworks from Impressionism to Pop Art. They’re really neat if you’re interested.

Also don’t miss Galata Museo Del Mare, it’s very interesting!

What are your top 3 places to eat and/or drink in Genoa?

If you visit Genoa you have to check out Masetto, an amazing sandwich shop in downtown. Il Galeone is another place I love to spend my spare time with friends, there you can have a drink facing the sea; it’s located in Priaruggia, in the east of the city. Finally Capricci , in Sturla, near the sea, is one of my favourite restaurants, there you can taste the best meat of Genoa.

Where is the best place to listen to live music or go clubbing in the city?

The clubs I usually go to and party at are: Mako, Sys, Casa Mia and Estoril, a couple of these are also next to the seaside. We also have lots of theatres (for example Carlo Felice, Politeama Genovese and Teatro della Tosse) and clubs (like Crazy Bull) where you can listen to live music.

Do you have any favourite record stores or flea markets?

I recommend Papillon, a vintage shop in the downtown, where you can buy incredible and unusual clothes and also La Feltrinelli, the biggest record store in Genoa, where sometimes artists come to meet their fans.

Which event shouldn’t we be snoozing on this year?

I’m looking forward to go to Macklemore’s concert here in Italy this year. He’s one of my all-time favourite artists and I actually got to meet him once, here in Genoa.

Where would you go for a morning or early evening walk? Any nice beach spots around?

Corso Italia is a beautiful long street near the sea and a lot of beaches. There you can go for a walk, sit in front of the sun, play volleyball in the beaches, swim and cycle. This street will amaze you, both in the morning and in the evening.

If you had to shop local design, craftwork or fashion; which stores would you go to?

There are so many shops in Genoa. My advice is to go for a walk in Via Venti Settembre, Via San Vincenzo and Via Roma. These are the streets with the best stores in the city. There you will find what you are looking for!

What other Volotea destination would you most like to visit (and why?)?

I’d really like to visit Santorini, I’ve never been there but i was amazed the first time I saw some photos of this beautiful island.

Maybe this summer I will book a Volotea flight to Santorini, it would be amazing!

We invite you to discover the city of Genoa through its greatest artists and its most famous songs. Are you ready for a musical ride? Put on your headphones and let yourself be guided!

« Nei quartieri dove il sole del buon Dio non dà i suoi raggi / ha già troppi impegni per scaldar la gente d’altri paraggi / Una bimba canta la canzone antica della donnaccia / quel che ancor non sai, tu lo imparerai solo qui fra le mie braccia ». Let’s be honest, the Genoa of Fabrizio De Andrè’s song “Città vecchia” hasn’t existed for some time. The world has moved on, as has the music scene in the city’s old town.

Genoa was a hotbed of literary and musical talent in the 1900s, gifting the world of entertainment stars such as Gino Paoli, Fabrizio De Andrè (aka Faber), Luigi Tenco, Bruno Lauzi, Umberto Bindi, Sergio Endrigo and many others. It was a world of contrasts. Tens of thousands of people found work against the coal-stained backdrop of this purely industrial city, concentrated around its port. And thousands more crowded into the factories in the city’s west end, where the steelworks and shipyards were based. But, paradoxically, out of this immense heavy industry grew some of the most famous names in Italian music.

And it was not only those born in the city; numerous musicians were influenced by and grew artistically because of Genoa, from Ivano Fossati to Paolo Conte, Ricchi e Poveri, Matia Bazar, Vittorio De Scalzi’s New Trolls, and Francesco Baccini.

Crammed in between the colossal industrial works in the west and the golden, jet-set life of the Ligurian Riviera on the east – home to towns such as Santa Margherita and Portofino – Genoa was the birthplace of songs such as “Il cielo in una stanza”, “Io che amo solo te”, and “Ciao amore, ciao,” as well as memorable albums including “La buona novella” and “Storia di un impiegato”. But how can we go back and relive that magical atmosphere, when the city has changed so fundamentally on the surface?

Here’s our suggestion for a very special city tour. Just landed at Christopher Columbus Airport? It’s time to head into the city centre. Along the way you’ll pass by a typical port scene, but one that’s on an entirely different scale, then within minutes you’ll find yourself in the very heart of Genoa. Ready to get started? Grab your headphones and off we go.

CREUZA DE MÄ – Fabrizio De Andrè

Once you reach the Sottoripa neighbourhood, stick your headphones on and get back to basics: “Crëuza de ma” is the only song that can truly introduce you to Genoa’s maze of little vicoli. And don’t worry if you don’t understand a word of the lyrics – Genoese is a tricky dialect! But trust me, Fabrizio De Andrè’s words are perfect for walking you through these tiny streets that have seen centuries of history, war and rebuilding. Although it’s not quite lunchtime yet, we recommend keeping with the musical vibes by stopping off at the Antica Friggitoria Carega. This place’s simplicity and its fried seafood – made the old-fashioned way – are at least half responsible for its great reputation. Besides the fact that it was one of De Andrè’s favourite haunts of course!

Good to carry on? Then let’s head back to Via del Campo and another classic by “Faber,” as he is still affectionately known by the whole city even now, twenty years after his death. Here you’ll find a museum dedicated to this singer-songwriter and to the “Scuola Genovese”. It’s based at Via del Campo 29 Red, which once upon a time was a musical instruments shop owned by Gianni Tassio, a retailer and acquaintance of many of these artists. If the fried snacks back in Sottoripa really whet your appetite, this next song will be right up your street. This time we’ll put on “A Çimma,” dedicated to one of Genoa’s most quintessential dishes: Cima.

The words at the start of the song will draw you into the “Ghetto” neighbourhood, a tangle of lesser-trodden streets away from the main tourist drag. But don’t worry; Genoa is always able to rustle up an airy piazza just around the corner from some dingy alleyway. Here you’ll find a delightful restaurant that weaves together this complex neighbourhood with its contemporary dishes: La Locanda degli Adorno. And there’s nothing like a long walk to burn off your meal.

Genova Blues – Francesco Baccini & Fabrizio De Andrè

Time to leave the historic centre for the completely regenerated Porto Antico, near Genoa’s aquarium. Let’s continue our musical odyssey with “Genova Blues” by Francesco Baccini and Fabrizio De Andrè. This blues ballad tells the tale of a more modern city (we’re in the early 90s now) and will lead you almost naturally to the Genoa Museum, in the Palazzina San Giobatta. With apologies to fans of the city’s other team, Sampdoria, this museum is a great place to learn about the city’s past through its sporting glory!

Let’s move on from the centre of the city to the eastern part of the Riviera. Over in Boccadasse, there are some very well-known songs to put you in just the right mood. Do you know “La Gatta” by Gino Paoli? It was written right here, in this seaside village lapped by the waves. It’s a magical place – a fairytale land within the city. Paoli spent quite a lot of time here, having grown up in the Pegli neighbourhood. And at Strambata, right beside the water’s edge, a welcome glass of wine awaits for the perfect musical aperitif.

But Boccadasse doesn’t end with the houses looking out over the bay. It’s worth scrambling your way up the little alleys (creuze) as far as the Capo Santa Chiara. As you head back down to the sea, switch artist once more. This time, we’ll change the record a bit and go for some 70s prog rock. It was in fact in here in Sturla where the father of founding New Troll Vittorio De Scalzi had a restaurant. Take a seat on the wall in Vernazzola at press play on “Quella carezza della sera”.

Evening is drawing on and it’s time for the last two stop-offs. As you wander down the long seaside street through Sturla, Quarto dei Mille and Quinto, your soundtrack absolutely has to be “Stasera… che sera!” by Matia Bazar. If you’re feeling peckish, I recommend Zio Reginaldo, just before you reach the splendid Nervi. Otherwise, to round off the day, carry on few hundred metres further to the city’s chic Nervi district, where Luigi Tenco used to live.

I hope you’ve enjoyed your whistle-stop tour of Genoa’s music through the years, ahead of the inauguration of the Museo dei Cantautori: the Singer-Songwriters Museum. Let’s finish with the words of Paolo Conte: « Con quella faccia un po’ così / Quell’espressione un po’così / Che abbiamo noi / Che abbiamo visto Genova ». (“With that funny face / That funny expression / We have / Having seen Genoa”).

Like every city, Genoa also renews its tradition every year. The San Nicola Market is a charity event that was held in 1986 for the first time and then became a Christmas fixture.

It was held in Piazza Piccapietra for many years, but for this winter 2018 you will find it in the de-lightful Piazza Sarzano, in the heart of the “old city”. Between fundraisers and charities, the Mer-catino sets out more than a dozen stalls. The transparent glass of the lamps, the scent of spices, the taste of traditional local pastries – and much more. Many craftsmen set up their stalls here, providing you with endless inspiration for more special gifts. Jewellers, puppeteers, ceramists and binders: so many ancient crafts are brought back for the occasion in the San Nicola Market.

There could of course be no Christmas market without wine, songs and a Christmas atmosphere! The Mercatino also lights up the square for concerts and daily shows. Prepare to see goats and rams in the inner square too, in accordance with popular tradition. You can also experience a Genoese Christmas further inland, with the Living Nativity Scene of Pentema, a town in the Province of Genoa. The countryside that spreads over hills and mountains acts as a natural “barrier” between the Ligurian capital and the regions of Piedmont and Lombardy, and can feel harsh and timeless. This increases its special appeal.

Ligurian and Genoese cuisine are an especially delicious reason to visit this land during the Christ-mas period. A complicated and colourful dish, the “Cappon Magro” is traditionally prepared in Easter. Yet nowadays Cappon Magro has definitely become part of a classic Genoese menu. A dif-ficult seafood and vegetable dish, it brings an explosion of colours to a set table, with a green sauce covering prawns, purple turnips and eggs.

As for the Christmas meal, we can’t possibly miss having at least a taste of the “Cima genovese”, which, like the Cappon Magro, is a dish originally intended for using up leftovers. As with many Mediterranean cuisines, we must look to a place’s history to find the reasons for recipes. The crews of merchant ships, who stayed out to sea for long periods of time, often came up with peculiar dish-es, derived from combining whatever was left over in the hold. The Cima, therefore, a symbol of Genoese gastronomy, tells the tale of the city’s culture through a large piece of veal belly, sewed into a pocket and stuffed with eggs, vegetables, cheese and peas. Boiled and served in slices, it be-comes a sort of intermezzo between an appetizer and a first course, although it can also be enjoyed as a main dish. In any case, the King of the meal arrives at the end. The Genoese Pandolce (sweet bread) will tell you all about the area’s culinary culture in its own candied fruit and raisins way.

Pizza with pesto. Pesto pasta. Pesto sauce. If there’s one thing more emblematic of Genoa than Christopher Columbus, it’s pesto. But just like every other “sacred” local dish, pesto alla genovese absolutely must stick to tradition. In addition, finding a “proper” pesto outside of Liguria is no mean feat. So here’s a short list of places where you can eat (or rather sample!) Genoa’s most famous dish.

But first, remember the magic recipe: Genoese basil DOP, Italian pine nuts, parmigiano-reggiano, pecorino sardo, Vessalico garlic, coarse sea salt and Ligurian extra virgin olive oil. Any change to the basic recipe may well give you a lovely sauce, but it won’t be pesto.

As for the basil, if the green leaves are long and wide, just discard them. The best leaves are to be found on plants that have come straight from the greenhouses of Prà, an area of Genoa that’s almost entirely given over to growing basil.

Have you just arrived to the airport and want to try “real” Genoese pesto? OK, but where do you go? If you search online you’ll find hundreds of bars and restaurants claiming to serve pesto, so here’s a local’s guide to the best ones around!

If you’re hiring a car, a quick drive inland will reward you with some true culinary delights. The Ostaia da U Santu in the hills above Voltri has breathtaking views over the Gulf of Genoa and is just a few miles from the city center. Weather permitting, I recommend eating al fresco with the scents of the countryside adding the finishing touch to your gourmet tour of Ligurian cuisine.

Not far away, on the road leading to the mountains that surround Liguria, sits another “historic” restaurant. Siblings Gianni and Rosella Bruzzone inherited the Osteria Baccicin du Caru, a 19th century coaching inn on the Via del Sale, from their grandparents and have refurbished it. The Osteria is in the Mele area, which differs greatly from the nearby coast. Here, the countryside reigns supreme and the dishes start to show signs of influence from the Basso Piemonte region. But the Baccicin du Caru’s pesto will certainly tickle your taste buds!

Moving on to the center of Genoa, there are three very different restaurants that I’d recommend that will introduce you to the wonder of authentic Genoese pesto.

Let’s start in Piazza Caricamento and head into the carruggi – the little alleyways – from the bottom. In the heart of these old streets, in Via dei Giustiniani, you can grab a spot to have lunch or dinner at the renowned Sa Pesta (but be aware that the kitchen closes at 9.30). This age-old restaurant is frequented by tourists and locals alike, who come along at lunchtime to calmly enjoy the famous savory pies and homemade pesto.

If you prefer a more intimate setting, for a romantic dinner perhaps, then try Mangiabuono in Piazza San Bernardo, just around the corner from Sa Pesta. There you’ll find traditional dishes cooked to perfection, simple yet elegant surroundings, and a great chef at the helm. Then, there are the ambassadors who’ve sent pesto global. One of these is Roberto Panizza, proprietor of Il Genovese, near Brignole train station. Here, pesto is most definitely homemade!

So all that’s left is to climb aboard your flight and make sure you remember to bring a fork!

Given the great danger the city was in – besieged by pirates from the sea and by the enemy armies from the surrounding land – its defensive solution had to be not only complex, but brilliant. The walls of Genoa were built and then enlarged numerous times, depending on what the city needed. This enormous defensive structure, which can still be seen today, was the result of a centuries-long expansion project.

Genoa’s city walls – the longest in Europa – are peppered with bastions, forts, towers and outposts. They stretch for almost 12 kilometres, from the sea to around 500 metres above sea level. The names of the forts that are built into the walls evoke the danger of bygone days: Sperone, Begato, Diamante, Richelieu. Petrarch referred to Genoa as, “a regal city, blanketing an Alpine mount, whose men and whose walls are both full of pride, her mere appearance bespeaking her as the mistress of the sea.” This high praise – which the Genoese of course adopted in their nickname, la Superba – tells how, at the time, the city was already surrounded by tall, sturdy walls.

But while these bastions saw battles, cannon and much blood over the centuries, today they are a major tourist attraction. If you love mountain biking, whether alone or with family, an alternative way of seeing the city is to take the Zecca-Righi funicular from the city centre. As the train climbs the steep hills, you can admire the city below you from the comfort of your seat. Once at the top, the foot of Forte Sperone is just a few kilometres uphill. From here you can ride one of the many routes that wind their way around Genoa, along wide grassy paths and along mountain ridges.

You’ll spot dozens of people up here cycling, jogging, exercising or reading in the cool air, far from the heat of the city centre. A few years ago, the local council took over responsibility for the forts and walls, and it is now planning a comprehensive renovation programme for this important part of the city. In the meantime, you can enjoy the vast green spaces just a few minutes from the centre, with panoramic views and tales not to be missed!

Bars with breathtaking views, from the old town to the rest of the province

Each year, as spring arrives, you find yourself dreaming of summer, its fun-filled, lazy days, and all those places just waiting for you to visit. You start thinking about where to go on holiday, and the winner this year is Liguria. Summer comes around, you pack your bags, and you hop on a plane to Genoa. You throw yourself into exploring the little alleyways, known as vicoli, the amazing architecture, the city’s lengthy history and its unique features.

There are beaches, museums, restaurants and music. But there’s something missing…The perfect place for an aperitivo by the sea! So here’s a short list of some of the best bars for you to enjoy in Genoa and its surrounding area in summer. Let’s start in the city centre. After strolling through the Spianata Castelletto and descending into the twists and turns of the old town, head through the medieval alleyways and downhill towards the sea. Once you reach the Porto Antico – the city’s old port that now hosts an activities and entertainment space – make your way over to the Galata Museo del Mare.

The museum was built in 2004 when Genoa was the European Capital of Culture, and has recently been renovated. It’s well worth a visit, after which you can quench your thirst at 518 Cocktail & Restaurant, a new, modern lounge bar with an enormous terrace on the quay below. Relax to the beat of the bossa nova while you sample the long list of cocktails skilfully mixed up by the bar staff. Or if you’d prefer to unwind at sunset just inches from the water, Banano Tsunami is right up your street. The bar – something of an institution for summer nights in Genoa – is on a barge moored in the Porto Antico and linked to terra firma by a gangway. Cocktails, the setting sun and great music: leisure is served.

Heading East, you get to what’s known in Genoa as the Riviera di Levante. If you’d rather explore some less urban areas without venturing too far from Piazza De Ferrari, the traditional fishing village of Boccadasse is a good starting point. Try typing “Genoa” into Google. One of the first photos you see will almost certainly be this small seaside town, just a few minutes’ bus or taxi ride from the centre, that is like stepping back in time. Boccadasse’s beach is home to a small bar called La Strambata. A stretch of pebbles, the sound of the waves lapping the shore and an unmistakeable seafaring atmosphere provide the backdrop to your aperitif!

Finding the beach too busy? Then venture along Boccadasse’s crêuze, the little lanes leading the way uphill. You’ll eventually reach a great viewpoint, above which you’ll pass some of the most exclusive houses in Genoa. You’re now on Capo Santa Chiara, between the villas and apartments overlooking the sea. Keep your eyes peeled and you’ll spot the street that leads down to the Bagni Santa Chiara. Perched on stilts next to the cliffs, the “Santa Chiara” is the place for an unforgettable aperitif while you fill your lungs with the fresh sea air.

If you’ve come to Genoa by car, or if you’ve hired one, there are all sorts of little Mediterranean cliff-side villages along the Riviera that you can get to by simply heading away from the city. There’s Bogliasco, Pieve Ligure, Sori and, last but by no means least, the Cinque Terre. The Via Aurelia – the road that hugs the coast – will take you to Camogli, another fascinating town. Once you reach the top of the hill, before making your way down to the bright lights of Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino, you’ll see San Rocco di Camogli on your right. The walk from the clearing in front of the church to the start of the promenade, which takes you to the Punta Chiappa, is sure to put San Rocco di Camogli in your top 5 of favourite seaside locations. This is where you’ll find Dai Muagetti, right at the start of the path that runs around the Portofino headland. Pull up a seat, breathe in the sea air and lose yourself in the beauty of the gulf!

George Gershwin, the famous pianist and composer of Rhapsody in Blue, said, “I like to think of music as an emotional science”. And how can you disagree? If music is able to free us from reality and set our imaginations adrift, then why not enjoy it at its highest level – in enchanting venues, at special moments, perhaps even on a warm summer evening on the seashore?

Summer in Genoa is the best reason for living here. Who cares about the rainy autumn months, icy winter winds and life’s general hardships? It’s unusual to find somewhere with such unique geography, just over an hour from France and a few kilometres from Portofino and the Cinque Terre. But actually all this is of little importance to Genoa’s residents. What counts is being able to hop onto their Vespas and travel no more than 15 minutes from the city centre to marvellous small bays or to the hills of the hinterland.

Summer is quintessentially fragrant and relaxing. But what would it be without music? After celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2017, the GoaBoa Festival is back. This event has changed its structure and venues over the years, and today is one of the staples of summer in Genoa. It runs from 13 to 25 July at the Arena del Mare in the Porto Antico, just a few metres from the sea. Numerous Italian and international artists will be appearing, kicking off with Negrita on 13 July and continuing with gigs from Caparezza, Coez, Motta, Coma-Cose and many others. Besides the performances, one of the most atmospheric parts of the evenings at GoaBoa will be seeing the ferries and cruise ships pass by just a few metres away as they leave the port. A truly unique show!

If you prefer classical to contemporary and trap music, don’t worry. Genoa has something up its sleeve just for you! The “I Notturni en plein air” festival is returning to the Palazzo Ducale from 19 July. These five free concerts are held in the Cortile Maggiore in collaboration with GOG, Genoa’s youth orchestra. Chopin, Bartók, Haydn and many other major classical piano composers will light up the summer nights at a must-see historical site, which nowadays hosts exhibits and events for almost 600,000 tourists each year.

Genoa, however, is first and foremost a city to be seen. Glimpses of the old town and its intimate neighbourhoods will provide the backdrop for the “In una notte d’estate” festival, featuring music, dance and theatre in the historic centre and in Nervi. For an evening under the stars from 23 June to 10 August, you’re simply spoiled for choice.