In days gone by, the taverns of Bilbao’s Old Quarter (Casco Viejo) were the usual haunts of the txikiteros, large groups of locals singing bilbainadas together, while drinking their merry txikitos (red wine). Today, this same Old Quarter is still observing the passing of time and although it maintains its historical soul, it has caught up with the modern world thanks to the wealth of bars, restaurants, shops and businesses that catch the eye of all those who visit it.
History of the Old Quarter
The Old Quarter or Seven Streets is the city’s heart and oldest hub, founded 700 years ago, when it was where people congregated to make their living from market gardening and fishing. Today it is used by thousands of travellers and tourists from all over the world and you simply can’t visit Bilbao without taking in its medieval history and vibrant street life.
Getting to the Old Quarter
As you can imagine, there are countless ways to get to Bilbao’s Old Quarter, including the metro, buses and even trams. As one of the city’s most visited areas, access is easy and straightforward, but if I had to choose a way to arrive and start enjoying its many delights, I would definitely take the train to admire the famous mosaic that welcomes us to the city.
Bilbao Abando train station is right in the city centre and has connections to the metro, several restaurants and cafes, a supermarket, souvenir shops, a bookstore, etc.
The station has several exits, one of which is directly opposite the Nervión estuary. My top tip is to make your way over the bridge that crosses it until you reach the impressive Arriaga Theatre on your right. The theatre crowns the city of Bilbao, and elegantly leads us into the 7 streets of the Old Quarter.
But if you want to land right on one of its streets, there are two metro stops: Unamuno and San Nicolás.
Things to see in the streets of Bilbao’s Old Quarter
We have already mentioned 2 of the must-see places which, while not located right in the Old Quarter, do lead into the area and reveal what we will find just before losing ourselves in its maze-like streets.
Bilbao’s 7 streets is the oldest area of the city, packed with history, restaurants, shops, fashion boutiques and businesses of all kinds. My advice if you go there is to walk without any particular aim and lose yourself in the narrow streets, although there are some unmissable landmarks to visit that you should take the opportunity to stop off at: San Antón Church, Santiago Cathedral and the Church of Santos Juanes, known for one of the city’s most popular bilbainadas.
Plaza Nueva, with its neoclassical style, is the heart of the Old Quarter, and on Sundays it also hosts a market for collectors’ items and second-hand objects.
Not forgetting the museums tucked away in the streets among the ancient buildings and squares, including the Pasos de Semana Santa, Euskal Museoa (remember to check the information on their website before planning your visit, as the museum is currently closed for a complete renovation) or the Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art in Plazuela de la Encarnación.
Stroll along Calle del Perro or Txakurraren Iturria, famed for its picturesque medieval fountain where three lions invite us to drink water from their mouths.
Where to eat in Bilbao’s Old Quarter
Pintxos, Restaurants and lots of flavour
Of the more than 40 pedestrian streets in Bilbao’s historic centre, there are 7 that are not to be missed: Carnicería Vieja, Barrencalle, Artecalle, Tendería, Belosticalle, Barrencalle Barrena and Somera. They are home to a vast array of bars and restaurants where you can sample some of the city’s tastiest pintxos (tapas).
The Old Quarter is now a perfect place to enjoy pintxos and txikitos in restaurants that have become some of today’s gastronomic icons. Here you will find some of the ones that are, in my opinion, essential:
- Mercado de la Rivera. One of the largest covered markets in Europe stands directly opposite the Old Quarter. This market also has an impressive vantage point overlooking the Nervión Estuary. There, in its gastrobars, you can sample typical Bilbao delicacies such as gilda (anchovies, olives and piparra), stuffed mussels, mushroom pintxos, cod pintxos in pil pil sauce along with a wide variety of other dishes to choose whatever takes your fancy.
- Bar Motrikes (C/ Goinkale 41) You must order this bar’s famous tapa of grilled txanpi with a spicy touch of picantón.
- Iñakiren Taberna (C/ Barrenkale Barrena 14) A bar-restaurant with excellent and affordable home-cooked menus. The house rice is their star dish.
- Bar Sorginzulo (Under the porticoes of Plaza Nueva no.12). Here you can try some of the city’s tastiest squid and cod pintxos, as well as tuna and anchovy pintxos, or patatas bravas, among many other options.
- Bar-Restaureante Victor Montes (C/ Plaza Nueva 8C/ Plaza Nueva). A visit to the famous Victor Montes Restaurant is a definite must. You’ll find such a wide variety of pintxos that you won’t even know where to start. My favourite is the cod in pil pil sauce.
As well as enjoying the pintxos, you can also stay for lunch in their restaurant and try their signature dishes like the Norwegian salmon with gold dust and Piedmont truffle, or the fresh foie gras marinated for 45 hours, or the butterfly anchovies from the Bay of Biscay with Arbequina caviar. Not to mention the best acorn-fed Iberian ham with Extremadura designation of origin, the highlight of every table.
- Café Lago (C/ Correo 13). It features mouth-watering pintxos, including its speciality: squid with onions.
- El Gure Toki (C/ Plaza Nueva 12). It offers a menu of pintxos, dishes representing Basque nouvelle cuisine and wines from the most renowned designations of origin.
- Bar SantaMaría (C/ Andra María Kalea 18). Here you’ll find delicacies such as a grilled monkfish pintxo, sirloin brochette, cod with roasted peppers, etc., all costing around €2.80 each.
- Restaurante La Palma (C/ Kosta Kale 3). This is one of the new restaurants in the Old Town where you will find traditional Basque food with a contemporary twist.
- Restaurante El Berton (Jardines K., 11). It offers a broad variety of hot pintxos made on the spot, such as the potato omelette, figs with goat’s cheese or a portion of Iberian ham.
So now you know, if you’re in Bilbao and you feel like enjoying a drink and a bite to eat, you can’t leave without trying the classic pintxo-pote.
Enjoy all that Bilbao’s Old Quarter has to offer, its restaurants, its shops, its people, its museums, churches and curiosities, this area of Bilbao boasts so much history that you absolutely can’t miss it. Take note: which iconic district has Bilbao’s liveliest atmosphere? That’s right, the 7 streets – so don’t miss them!
