Light-coloured sand, wind scented with Mediterranean scrub and coves reachable on foot: around Olbia there is a simpler, more authentic and surprisingly accessible Sardinia. Far from the yachts, close to the real sea.
Another Sardinia, Just Minutes from the Airport
There is one Sardinia, made up of exclusive resorts and legendary names of the Costa Smeralda. And then there’s another that begins just outside Olbia: beaches frequented by locals, unsurfaced car parks, bars on the sand where you can order a coffee in your flip-flops.
Olbia is often considered just an arrival point, but it is in fact the perfect place to start exploring a more natural northern Sardinia, without the need for private boats or luxury beach clubs.
Here, the rhythm is set by the wind — mistral or sirocco — and the choice of beach changes from day to day. It is a tangible, luminous and accessible Sardinia, perfect for low-cost travellers, couples and lovers of the real sea.i del mare vero.
Pittulongu and Bados: The Locals’ Beaches
Less than 15 minutes from the centre lies Spiaggia di Pittulongu, the ultimate “city beach”. Light sand, shallow and transparent waters, views of the island of Tavolara. In spring and early summer it is perfect for long walks; in high season it remains pleasant during the morning hours.
Next to it, the more sheltered Spiaggia di Bados is loved by families and groups of friends. An informal atmosphere and a few simple beach bars where you can enjoy a cold beer at sunset. Here you don’t need reservations or a dress code;: just a towel, a bit of wind in your hair and time to slow down.
ntare.
Cala Banana and Nodu Pianu: Small, Wild and Reachable on Foot
For those seeking something more intimate, Cala Banana is a small cove between granite rocks and crystal-clear waters, easily reached by car and a short path. No resorts, just sea and silence.
Even quieter is Spiaggia di Nodu Pianu, perfect on days with light mistral winds. The sand is pale, the seabed slopes gently and the atmosphere remains relaxed even in summer.
These are ideal places for those who want to avoid the crowds of the Costa Smeralda without giving up spectacular sea views.
Porto Istana and Capo Ceraso: Light, Wind and Open Views
Facing the imposing island of Tavolara, Spiaggia di Porto Istana offers one of the most iconic panoramas in the area. Divided into small coves, it allows you to choose the most sheltered corner depending on the wind.
For those who love walking, the Capo Ceraso area offers seaside trails and practically deserted coves even in the height of summer. All you need is a bit of exploratory spirit — and comfortable shoes.
Here, you see Sardinia in its purest form: granite, Mediterranean scrub, turquoise water and silence.
How to Choose the Right Beach (Depending on the Wind)
In Sardinia, wind plays a leading role.
- Mistral (from the northwest): it is better to choose more sheltered beaches facing southeast, such as Porto Istana.
- Sirocco (from the southeast): beaches facing north, like Pittulongu, work well.
- Windless days: Cala Banana and Nodu Pianu are perfect for calm seas and crystal-clear water.
A practical tip: always check local forecasts before heading out. Changing beaches can turn a windy day into a perfect experience.
Where to Stop: Simple Villages and Genuine Venues
After the sea, it’s worth stopping in Olbia’s Old Town for a simple aperitivo among its narrow streets and small squares. No ostentatious luxury: crisp Vermentino wine, a platter of pecorino and the traditional flatbread, pane carasau.
A few kilometres away, the village of San Pantaleo offers an artistic and relaxed atmosphere, perfect for a sunset stroll among stone houses and small artisan shops.
To eat without formality:
- Local trattorias where you can order culurgiones (potato-filled pasta), fregola with seafood or grilled fish. Our favourite: Trattoria Il Gambero (via la Marmora, 6/A, Olbia); a true local institution, without frills. You come here for fregola with seafood, mixed grilled fresh fish and simple seafood starters. A homely atmosphere, fair prices and popular with the locals. Perfect after a day at Pittulongu.
- Beach bars for a bottarga sandwich or an ice-cold Ichnusa beer. Our favourite: Chiringuito Bados, a small informal bar on Spiaggia di Bados. Perfect for a simple aperitivo or a quick sandwich between swims. Mixed clientele: locals, families and surfers on windy days.
- Farmhouse restaurants in the countryside for a simple dinner based on porceddu (suckling pig) and Sardinian red wine. Our favourite: Agriturismo Cabu Abbas (via Cabu Abbas, Olbia); just a few minutes from Olbia but immersed in the countryside. Traditional fixed menu with: Sardinian starters, roasted porceddu, seadas (cheese pastries) with honey and local red wine included. A rustic and convivial atmosphere. Ideal for those who want to experience an authentic evening.
These are places where atmosphere matters more than elegance, and where prices remain in line with an affordable trip.
A More Authentic Sardinia, Beyond Luxury
Olbia is not only the gateway to the Costa Smeralda: it is the entry point to a Sardinia made up of free beaches, wind in your hair and unfiltered sunsets. Here, luxury means finding a parking spot near the sea, choosing an almost empty cove, staying until the last ray of sunlight. It is a simple, natural and inclusive beauty.
Moving away from the most exclusive circuits means discovering a Sardinia closer to the Volare vision: authentic, accessible and lived at the local pace. And if you love exploring destinations beyond the most famous postcards, let yourself be inspired by the other Volare articles dedicated to Olbia: new routes, new beaches, new stories to experience light-heartedly.
