A weekend in Genoa is a brief trip amidst sea, history and irresistible aromas. From the historic centre to the Porto Antico, all the way to the village of Boccadasse: an evergreen itinerary to discover the soul of “La Superba”.
Genoa, the perfect city for a getaway in any season
Genoa is one of those cities that never fails to surprise. You see it from the plane window – squeezed in between sea and mountains, all clinging to the slopes and full of light – and you wonder how so much can fit into such a vertical space. And yet it does: centuries of maritime history, aristocratic palaces, secret little squares, top-level museums, sea-view paths, neighbourhoods with ancient charm, all topped off with its Ligurian cuisine, fragrant like freshly crushed basil.
Whether you arrive in winter with the salty wind whipping the quays of the Porto Antico, or in summer with the sunlight caressing the pastel-coloured palaces, Genoa always remains true to itself: authentic, straightforward, a little rough at first but capable of winning you over with touches of everyday poetry. It is a perfect destination for an “evergreen” weekend because it changes with the seasons without ever really changing. And above all, because in 48 hours you can see a lot, taste a lot and live a lot.
Here, then, is a sensorial, historical and gastronomic itinerary for your Genoese weekend, alternating walks through the alleyways, sea-salted panoramas and little coastal havens.
1. Happily getting lost in the caruggi of the historic centre
The best way to understand Genoa is to plunge into it as you would dive into a novel: without knowing what awaits on the next page. The caruggi, the most densely-packed area of medieval alleyways in Europe, is a fascinating labyrinth where every step is an encounter. Scents of freshly baked focaccia, glimpses of votive Madonnas, historic shops resisting the passage of time, unexpected little squares that open up like breathing spaces.
Start from Via Garibaldi, elegant and monumental, with the Palazzi dei Rolli showcasing the mercantile power of sixteenth-century Genoa. Then slip into the narrower streets: Via della Maddalena, Via dei Macelli di Soziglia, San Luca. Every corner is a surprise.
Stop for a “Genoese-style” break: a piece of focaccia, oily in just the right way (strictly eaten with your hands), a warm farinata or a fried panissa to eat on the go. These specialities offer the gift of comfort in any season.
And don’t forget to look up: in Genoa, treasures are often right above your head.
2. Strolling around the Porto Antico, between maritime history and sea air
The Porto Antico is where Genoa breathes in the sea from every angle. Renovated in the 1990s, it is now a large square overlooking the water, where the wind intermingles with laughter, skateboards, museums and families out for a walk.
In summer it is bright and lively; in winter it offers a theatrical atmosphere, with the sky reflected in the water in a thousand shades.
A walk here is almost a ritual: from the Bigo by Renzo Piano to the tanks of the Aquarium that house such fascinating species and up to the hill of Salita San Giovanni, which provides evocative views. You can sit and watch the ferries departing for Sardinia, sip a coffee while watching the waves or simply wander footloose.
And then there is the Lanterna, the lighthouse symbol of the city, standing proud like an ancient guardian. If the weather is clear, it is worth following the visitor route to reach it on foot to get the feeling of being in touch with Genoa’s maritime identity.
3. The marvels of the Rolli and the palaces of the doges
Genoa is an aristocratic city without ostentation, and its historic palaces are treasure chests best explored unhurriedly. The Palazzi dei Rolli, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, were once the residences that the most illustrious families offered to host ambassadors and dignitaries visiting the Republic of Genoa.
Visiting some of them is like leafing through an old album: frescoed halls narrating classical myths, inner courtyards designed to impress guests, scenic staircases worthy of a theatrical production.
Whether you choose Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco or the magnificent Palazzo Reale near the Via Balbi area, you will get the feeling that time flows differently there – at a more baroque, grandiose rhythm. A perfect activity in winter, but equally pleasant in summer when you’re looking for a bit of artistic cool.
4. Climbing up to the panoramic viewpoints to see Genoa from above
Genoa is not just a city to walk through: it is a city to look at from above. It’s from there that you truly understand its theatrical shape, that natural stage made of hills, rooftops and sea.
An all-time classic is the Spianata Castelletto. You reach it with the liberty-style lift from Piazza Portello – a little trip back in time in its own right – and then the great stage of the grey rooftops, domes and the distant port appears before you.
From here, Genoa almost looks like an imaginary city. You’ll want to stay there for hours, perhaps with a lemon granita in summer or a hot chocolate on colder days.
If you have more time, the forts on the hills (Forte Sperone, Forte Diamante) also offer trails and spectacular panoramas. Perfect in spring and autumn, but also atmospheric in winter when the air is clearer.
5. Diving into flavours: pesto, trofie, anchovies and other delights
You cannot talk about Genoa without referring to its cuisine. Here the flavours are simple but deep, fragrant and intense, like a day at the seaside.
A plate of trofie pasta with pesto is a bright green caress; cima alla genovese recounts an ancient home-cooking tradition; trenette al basilico have the power to change your mood even on grey days.
And then there are the anchovies: baked, stuffed, marinated. A humble fish? Perhaps. An absolute delicacy? Certainly.
Focaccia deserves a chapter of its own. The good kind, the one with coarse salt that crunches between your teeth, is an almost spiritual experience to enjoy at least once a day. Breakfast with focaccia? In Genoa you can – and indeed, you must.
Regardless of the season, Ligurian cuisine is an embrace: light but flavourful, simple but never boring.
6. A walk in Boccadasse, the enchanting seaside village
Boccadasse is a little gem that feels lifted from a watercolour painting. Pastel-coloured houses overlooking the sea, fishing nets laid out in the sun, the little pebble beach capturing the whispers and laughter from passers-by.
It is easy to reach from the city centre – even with a pleasant walk along the Corso Italia seafront – and is one of the most romantic spots on the Ligurian Riviera. Perfect in summer, of course, but incredibly poetic even in winter, when the village comes alive with its residents and the sea takes on a heavier, more evocative character.
Sit on the low wall, order a cone of artisanal ice cream if it’s warm, or a fragrant savoury herb pie if the day is cool. Watching the boats rocking gently will be the “postcard moment” of your weekend.
7. Quick excursions to Nervi and its seaside promenade
If you still have some time, go to Nervi. This is one of the most fascinating areas near the city, and the famous Anita Garibaldi Promenade is probably one of the most beautiful walks in Italy: a long ribbon suspended between rocks and waves, where the sea comes so close it feels like you can touch it.
On summer days, the light bounces off the water; in spring, the colours of the Nervi Parks explode; and in autumn and winter, the wind smells of storm and the landscape turns more dramatic.
Also not to be missed are the museums of Villa Luxoro and the Gallery of Modern Art, cultural gems perfect for a quiet afternoon.
A weekend that stays with you
Genoa is a city to be experienced unhurriedly and with curiosity. It opens up slowly, like a book that wins you over one page at a time. In one weekend you can savour it, breathe it in, see it from above and from the sea, lose yourself in its alleyways and end up in a seaside village.
And when you leave, you’ll feel you have discovered a true, authentic, unique place. A place you’ll want to return to in every season.
