In Volare Magazine I gave you some tips on the best appetisers in Palermo. I also offered some advice on the most charming towns and the best coves in and around the city. Now it’s time to take a look at the postcard sights of Palermo: read on to find out more about Palermo Cathedral and Arab-Norman heritage!
A bit of background: the Normans were tolerant rulers at a time of great splendour throughout Sicily, and they encouraged the various cultures to integrate, but never at the expense of their own identities. Islamic artists and Byzantine mosaicists enriched the simple Norman structures with their art, resulting in the perfect combination of the Eastern and Western worlds.
This is the real treasure that Palermo has to offer, and that’s why the Arab-Norman style has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, consisting of as many as nine sites, in Palermo, Monreale and Cefalù. So come and explore them soon!
PALERMO CATHEDRAL
There’s no better place to start with than the majestic giant that is Palermo Cathedral, a truly eye-popping sight. It’s a definite wow moment!
It was consecrated in 1185 by Archbishop Walter Ophamil, during the reign of William II of Sicily, who instigated the construction of Monreale Cathedral almost simultaneously.
The cathedral actually stands on the site of the former Friday Mosque, which in turn had been adapted to the Islamic faith from an earlier Paleo-Christian basilica! Can’t you just feel the wonder of these intertwining cultures? And what about the inscription of verses from the Quran, on full display in a Catholic cathedral? Well, in a city like Palermo, anything is possible!
Islamic-style arches and geometric motifs are featured in the Norman structure, which typically resembles a fortress, to which the huge 15th century door, a masterpiece in Catalan-Gothic style, was added during Spanish rule. The enormous Neoclassical dome and the small domes covered in majolica tiles, added during the Bourbon era, prompt many to ask ‘why?!’, but in the eyes of us locals, lovers of excess in all its forms, it all looks very harmonious!
While it’s true that the cathedral is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, it’s also true that the role of the First Lady is shared with the one and only Santuzza, or patron saint, of Palermo: the Patron Saint Rosalia, whose statue, as powerful as it is reassuring, dominates the area in front of the cathedral and whose relics are kept in the cathedral in the chapel dedicated to her.
Despite its simplicity, there are plenty of charming corners and precious treasures inside, such as the Royal Tombs.
But let’s focus on the most interesting aspect: Palermo is finally beginning to see some rooftop bars and many amazing panoramic views can now be enjoyed from the rooftops of some of its important buildings.
From below you can see hundreds of people on the rooftops of the cathedral, and you’ll just be dying to join them up there!
Palermo Cathedral Hours
Monday – Saturday: 7am–7pm Sunday: 8 am-7pm
Access to Monument Area:
Monday – Saturday 9:30am–6pm Sunday: 10am–6pm
(includes Rooftops, Royal Tombs, Crypt, Apses, Treasure, Underground Areas). Full ticket: €12
THE NORMAN PALACE AND PALATINE CHAPEL
The Arab-Norman heritage of Palermo is not limited to just the Cathedral, although it is certainly the star of the show!
Just as interesting is the Norman Palace, the oldest royal residence in Europe and now home to the oldest parliament in the world.
It was by order of Roger II, the first Norman king, that in 1130 the masterpiece that is the Palatine Chapel was built within the palace. Here, it’s all about the union between East and West. The beautiful mosaics depict engaging scenes from the Old and New Testament as well as of Christ Pantocrator, instilling respect but also being very moving at the same time.
What is truly unique, though, is the muqarnas ceiling with its scenes of court life and the Arab world, representing a kind of heaven on earth for the king. It is one of the very few examples to be found in Europe.
As you make your way to the chapel, you cross the 17th century Maqueda Courtyard, from where you can also access the Royal Apartments.
The Federico II Foundation runs the events that take place at the palace, including temporary exhibitions. Until 1 October 2023 you can visit the Omar Hassan Temporary Exhibition Punctum in the Sala Duca di Montalto.
Hours
Monday-Saturday: 8:30am-4:30pm Sunday: 8:30am-12:30pm. Full ticket: €19
From Tuesday to Thursday the Royal Apartments will be closed to the public. As a result, tickets will be reduced to €15.50.
CHURCH OF SAN GIOVANNI DEGLI EREMITI
Still in the vicinity of the Royal Palace and less than a five-minute walk away, you’ll come across a building a truly iconic place in Palermo that’s still steeped in mystery to this day.
Little is known about the complex of San Giovanni degli Eremiti other than the fact that it was instigated by Roger II as a possible place of burial for the Hauteville family. You’ll be amazed when you realise that this is a church and not a mosque: those five red domes, combined with a belltower, will fool you!
The church is flanked by a romantic-style garden, full of fan palms, loquats, carob trees and citrus trees, but the view of the cloister adjacent to the church is what will get you millions of likes!
Hours
Monday-Saturday: 9am-6:30pm Sunday: 9am-1:30pm Full ticket: €6
LA ZISA
Al-ʿAzîz palace, meaning “the splendid”, was designed as a summer residence for the kings, as it was surrounded by the Norman royal park, the Genoardo. At the time, the Hauteville family promoted the construction of their “sollazzi regi” (literally ‘royal amusements’), residences designed for leisure, surrounded by luxuriant vegetation and hunting lodges.
Here, Arab culture is also evident in the form of engineering principles that allow for efficient ventilation, with the palace facing north-east and water fountains keeping the air cool as they combine with the breeze.
The palace houses the Museum of Islamic Art, with finds from around the Mediterranean.
Hours
Tuesday-Saturday: 9am-7pm. Sunday: 9am-1:30pm Full ticket: €6
CHURCHES OF LA MARTORANA AND SAN CATALDO
I’m combining these two gems just to make your life easier, as both can be found in Piazza Bellini.
In Palermo, we have a nickname for just about everything: to us, the famous Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio is simply known as La Martorana because the nuns in the neighbouring convent, no longer in existence, guided by the Mother Superior Eloisa Martorana, created one of Sicily’s most iconic sweets, Frutta Martorana.
Like the cathedral, you’ll see the combination of three styles in perfect harmony: Arab-Norman, alongside a Baroque extension separating it from a Gothic-style belltower. Wonderful Byzantine mosaics and magnificent Baroque frescos adorn the interior.
As you pass by, you are likely to see plenty of brides, one after the other, as this is one of the most sought-after churches in Palermo for weddings.
Beside it stands the famous Church of San Cataldo, in its simplicity becoming a symbol of Palermo due to the red domes reminiscent of those of San Giovanni degli Eremiti. And no, this isn’t a mosque either!
This square can make you very emotional, so brace yourself before you turn the corner!
Hours
Church of La Martorana:
Monday-Saturday: 9:45am–1pm Full ticket: €2
Church of San Cataldo:
Every day 10am-6pm Full ticket: €2.50. If you have a ticket for the Church of La Martorana, the entry fee is reduced to €1.50.
CEFALU’ CATHEDRAL AND MONREALE CATHEDRAL
I’ve already mentioned Monreale and Cefalù in the article on the unmissable towns and villages around Palermo.
You’ll remember that two masterpieces of the Arab-Norman style dominate the main squares of these two towns.
Cefalù Cathedral is another example of the style that emerged following the vow made to the Saviour by Roger II, who survived a storm through divine intervention and washed up safe and sound on the shores of this fishing village. Without romanticising things too much, I’d say that it is really political interests that lay behind its construction and that the same interests led to the creation of Monreale Cathedral on the part of William II of Hauteville, who wanted it to stand at the foot of Monte Caputo overlooking Palermo.
Once again, you’ll see Islamic geometric mosaics, Byzantine mosaics with biblical scenes and Christ Pantocrator. 6,500m2 of mosaics will surround you once inside!
In short, the Palatine Chapel in Palermo on steroids, which could fit into this ten times!
Finish off with a nice stroll through the beautiful Cloister, where at last you can take a moment to reflect on these peaceful surroundings.
Hours
Cefalù Cathedral:
Every day 8am-12:45pm and 3:30pm-6pm
Monreale Cathedral:
Monday-Saturday: 9am-12:45pm and 2pm-5pm Sunday: 2pm-5pm
So, have I sparked your interest?
You can’t afford to miss all this splendour, so start planning your trip to Palermo right now by booking a flight with Volotea!
