Destination: Venice

Hills embroidered with rows and vineyards, villages among the most beautiful in Italy, places rich in history and art. The province of Treviso is a treasure trove of cultural, food and wine treasures, ancient traditions and evocative landscapes awaiting discovery that, with the approach of autumn, are tinged with a thousand different colours.

If you are planning a trip to this corner of Veneto, here are 10 places you shouldn’t miss and as many ideas for an autumn trip through the vineyards, to discover flavours, history and traditions.

A toast in the hills: 10 places to discover in the heart of DOCG Prosecco

Treviso is a province that will surprise you. In addition to a rich artistic, historical and cultural heritage, the area is also renowned for its excellent food and wine variety, its roots embedded in ancient traditions carried forward from generation to generation.

The most famous products certainly include Prosecco, a sparkling, fresh, light wine, perfect for any occasion and today among the most famous whites in the world. But the word Prosecco isn’t enough. Did you know that there isn’t just one?

On the one hand, in fact, there is DOC Prosecco, produced in almost all the Venetian provinces (except only those of Verona and Rovigo) and in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. On the other hand, there is DOCG Prosecco, a wine of controlled and guaranteed origin produced only in the hills of the high province of Treviso, between the areas of Asolo, Conegliano and Valdobbiadene.

It is precisely these areas that I want to talk to you about in this article, suggesting 10 places not to be missed among the hills and vineyards of DOCG Prosecco. Will we go?

Conegliano: gateway to the DOCG Prosecco hills

Conegliano is the gateway to the hills of DOCG Prosecco for those arriving from the plain, and still preserves a historic centre where ancient noble palaces and evocative places alternate. Among these is the castle, now home to the Civic Museum, which with its imposing walls and towers dominates the city from above, offering a breathtaking view of the Treviso plain and the surrounding hills, especially on the clearest days.

The beating heart of the city is Piazza Cima, dedicated to the famous Renaissance painter Cima da Conegliano, overlooked by the Teatro Accademia. Don’t miss the nearby Cathedral of San Leonardo and the Jewish Cemetery, one of the oldest and best preserved in Italy, which offers an incredibly evocative atmosphere, especially in autumn, when the leaves begin to change colour.

Vittorio Veneto and its two souls: Ceneda and Serravalle

Vittorio Veneto‘s roots date back to the Middle Ages, when two rival villages, Ceneda and Serravalle, vied for hegemony over the area. It was only in 1866, with the annexation of the region to the Kingdom of Italy, that the two centres were united under a single denomination, chosen to honour Vittorio Emanuele II and the victory that marked the end of the Great War.

Today, the town retains two souls: a more modern one, represented by the old Ceneda, now home to the Battle Museum dedicated to the events of the First World War, and an older one, which sees its beating heart in the historic centre of Serravalle, which retains its medieval charm among alleys, arcades and tower-houses.

Also not to be missed is the Sanctuary of Sant’Augusta, surrounded by greenery and in an elevated position, reachable via a walk that starts right from the historic centre of Serravalle.

The Molinetto della Croda: a dive into ancient peasant life

The Molinetto della Croda is an enchanted place surrounded by the Treviso hills. Located in the Lierza Valley, this ancient watermill is a genuine architectural and landscape jewel that goes back in time, allowing you to experience a taste of rural life in Treviso up close.

Built in the 12th century, for decades it was a point of reference for peasant families in the area, who came here to grind wheat, an activity carried out until 1953. Lying on a rock overlooking the Lierza Stream, today the mill is a museum where history and nature merge in perfect harmony, and where you can see the grinding mechanisms and their operation up close.

And once here, if you have a little more time, I recommend that you make a small detour to visit the nearby parish church of San Pietro di Feletto, a gem of Romanesque architecture built between the 8th and 9th centuries that still houses splendid frescoes today.

Cison di Valmarino: where fairy tale becomes reality

Cison di Valmarino is a village that seems to have arisen from a fairy tale. Located in the hills of Treviso and today among the most beautiful villages in Italy, this architectural and landscape jewel will enchant you with its cobbled streets, its shops and the medieval atmosphere that still pervades the historic centre today.

Its pulsating heart is its castle, also known as Castelbrando: an imposing fortress, dating back to the twelfth century, once home to noble families and now a renowned hotel that boasts elegant and refined interiors (a fascinating testimony to the structure’s past) and a breathtaking view of the valley.

If you decide to visit Cison di Valmarino, don’t forget to try Torcolo, a typical local dessert: a sweet doughnut prepared with raisins, pine nuts and sugar.

Valdobbiadene and its surroundings: UNESCO World Heritage hills

The small municipality of Valdobbiadene (together with all the villages and hamlets that surround it) is, together with Conegliano, the heart of the DOCG Prosecco production area on the left bank of the Piave River.

Its hills, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are a mosaic of terraced vineyards that stretch as far as the eye can see, offering a unique spectacle in the world.

Do not miss, in addition to visiting one of the wineries in the area, a walk on the Colle delle Bastie, or Colle Cartizze, an apron of land of just 107 hectares from which you can admire the expanses of vines and where the homonymous cru is born, one of the most famous varieties of DOCG Prosecco.

The military shrine on Monte Grappa: discovering the sites of the Great War

The Piave River divides the area of Valdobbiadene from that of Asolo: a waterway “sacred to the Homeland” and a symbol of Italian resistance during the First World War, when it represented the last line of defence against the Austro-Hungarian advance.

So during a trip to this corner of Veneto, you will encounter numerous monuments dedicated to the fallen and the soldiers, and as many sites that were the scene of the conflict’s atrocities. The Military Shrine on the top of Monte Grappa combines the two, surrounded by slopes on which you can still see the scars of the grenades.

Built in the 1930s and easily accessible by car, the shrine houses the corpses of Italian and Austro-Hungarian soldiers, who today rest in a place overlooking the plain that witnessed some of the harshest episodes of the conflict. Cima Grappa is in fact 1,775 metres above sea level, in a privileged position from which, on the clearest days, you can also see Venice.

The slopes of Grappa: cheese paradise

Not far from the vineyards of Asolo and remaining in the area of Monte Grappa, you cannot miss one of the restaurants or one of the shops you will encounter along the way, to taste some of the most famous local cheeses. During the summer, in fact, the huts on the slopes of Grappa open their doors, and the cows climb the heights to graze and produce a pure and genuine milk from which unique cheeses such as Morlacco and Bastardo are born.

Morlacco, a Slow Food product, has a very ancient history and is linked to the Morlacchi, a population that arrived here centuries ago from the Balkans. It is a fresh and delicate cheese, ready in a short time, but which can also be cured to obtain a more intense taste.

Bastardo, on the other hand, is a cheese arising from the union of different preparations and, at one time, also of different types of milk; this is the reason behind its very special name. Today it is mainly produced with the milk of the Burlina cow, an almost extinct breed and typical of these areas of the province of Treviso.

Possagno: birthplace of Antonio Canova

Possagno, at the foot of Monte Grappa, is a small town, which among its illustrious citizens boasts a figure that has forever marked the history of art: Antonio Canova, born here in 1757 and one of the greatest artists of Neoclassicism.

Two places that can be visited that recount the life and works of the artist. On the one hand, the Canova Museum, consisting of the sculptor’s birthplace (which still houses objects belonging to him and his family) and the fascinating Gypsotheca (which exhibits a rich collection of plaster casts used for the creation of the marble statues). On the other hand, the Canovian Temple, the church dedicated to him and where his remains rest today. If the sky is clear during your visit, I recommend that you also climb to the dome of the building, from which, if no haze is present, you can also see Venice!

Asolo: city of a hundred horizons

Asolo, one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, is a place whose beauty has inspired poets like Robert Browning, writers like Henry James and travellers like Freya Stark, who was so enchanted that she dedicated several pages of her diary to it.

Already inhabited in Roman times, in the Middle Ages this centre on the Treviso hills experienced great development, but it was between the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries that it attained its maximum splendour. The merit belongs to Caterina Cornaro, queen of Cyprus born in Venice in 1453 and deeply linked to Asolo, who brought here a refined court comprised of poets, artists and intellectuals, transforming the town into a cultural centre of importance for the entire territory.

Strolling through the narrow streets of Asolo, described by Giosuè Carducci as “the city of a hundred horizons”, you will feel like you have experienced a leap into the past. Don’t miss the Castle, perched on a hill and offering a breathtaking view of the surrounding countryside; the Rocca, with its imposing walls; the churches, the historic buildings and the house of Eleonora Duse, a famous actress buried right in the small city cemetery.

The beauty of Asolo causes it to take its rightful place, without ifs and buts, among the autumn trips not to be missed among the vineyards of the province of Treviso. And if you have a little extra time, take a short detour to nearby Monfumo, renowned for its apples!

Hidden treasures: Veronese frescoes at Villa Maser

Villa Maser, a timeless masterpiece immersed in the Treviso countryside, is a tangible testimony to the genius of Andrea Palladio, who was able to combine the elegance of classic forms with the functionality of spaces, creating a harmonious architecture perfectly integrated into the surrounding landscape.

Built between 1554 and 1560 on behalf of the Barbaro brothers, the villa boasts a fascinating garden, where statues and fountains alternate with tree-lined avenues and flowering flowerbeds, and an important cycle of frescoes by Paolo Veronese, which transforms the structure into a real art gallery to be discovered, between mythological and allegorical scenes, true masterpieces of the Venetian Renaissance.

Visiting this villa is like taking a journey through time to discover an era in which elegance and beauty were the basis of every artistic creation, and in which the noble Venetian families left the lagoon to enjoy the countryside of the hinterland.

How to Reach the Vineyards of the Province of Treviso from Venice

Once you’ve landed in Venice, reaching the Prosecco area of Treviso is quite easy. Here are the available options:

• In Venice you can take a train to Conegliano or Valdobbiadene, the main towns in the Prosecco region. From there, you can explore the area with a rental car or local bus.
• Alternatively, you can reach the region directly by car from Venice. Take the A27 motorway in the direction of Belluno and exit at Conegliano. The journey takes about 45 minutes.

Now that you’ve discovered some of the most beautiful places not to be missed among the vineyards of the province of Treviso, all you have to do is organise your itinerary and book your flight to Venice. Have a safe trip!

“A jewel in the Dolomites, peaceful, with everything you need to spend a beautiful vacation. Both in winter and summer.”

Or: ‘The place is completely immersed in nature. One can hardly believe that such places still exist. It’s like being in a fairy tale. Fantastic.’ But also, ‘The local people are fantastic, there is good living, good skiing and good food here!’

If the best publicity is the opinion of those who have been there, you only need to scroll through the online reviews to understand that Arabba is not (only) so much a pleasant tourist resort, but a real corner of paradise on earth.

We are in Italy, in the adventurous Belluno Dolomites, in Valle di Fodom to be precise, one of the five valleys that make up the enclave of Ladinia. Venice is only a two-hour drive away.

Arabba lies at the foot of the Sella massif, one of the most iconic features of the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, at 1,602 m above sea level, set like a pearl between the Pordoi Pass and the Campolongo Pass. And, opposite, the ‘Queen of the Dolomites’: the Marmolada, which at 3,343 m is the highest point of all the Dolomites.

In this unique and evocative setting, Arabba is an ideal place to rediscover a people-focused dimension in every season: clean air, unspoiled nature, zero stress and endless outdoor activities.

Winter: a ski area unique in the World

In winter, Arabba has a privileged position, allowing you to be in the midst of an almost infinite network of slopes: in fact, Arabba forms part of one of the largest ski circuits in the world, the Dolomiti Superski, and, with its Arabba-Marmolada ski area, it offers snow enthusiasts more than 60 km of snow-covered and groomed slopes, strategically connected by 26 modern ski lifts, walkable from every corner of the village.  

Arabba is a strategic starting point for the Sellaronda ski tour and the First World War Ski Tour. In addition, you have the opportunity to experience all dimensions of snow: both the more adrenaline-filled ones, such as ski mountaineering or steep skiing, accompanied by a local mountain guide; and the quieter ones, such as snowshoeing or winter trekking on marked trails.

Summer: on foot or by bike, between nature and culture

In summer, Arabba is the privileged starting point for immersing oneself in the heart of the Dolomites, with regenerating walks and hikes in the midst of nature and silence, among irregular spires and majestic walls, where, moreover, countless high-altitude itineraries and vie ferrate and climbing areas are designed.

For cycling enthusiasts, on the other hand, Arabba offers the great climbs of the Giro d’Italia (Pordoi, Sella, Gardena, Campolongo, Giau, Fedaia, Falzarego), and also the possibility of multiple trails and Mbt tours, served by ski lifts.

Those who prefer a vacation dedicated to culture and history can (re)discover Ladin traditions, customs and traditions at the Ladin Museum, or visit Andraz Castle, a fortification dating back to the 11th century. The whole area, then, was the scene of the battles of World War I: from Mount Col di Lana to the Sacrarium of Pian di Salesei, to the Ossuary of Passo Pordoi, where the Great War Museum is also located.

Hospitality: a thousand different options

And to round off a day of nature and sport, there is a wealth of Ladin hospitality on offer, with capacity for 3,000 guests and with 200 establishments including restaurants, hotels and other accommodation options: from wellness hotels, B&Bs with a typical alpine flavour, to residences, apartments, farm holidays and room rentals. Also not to be missed are the mountain refuges and the typical restaurants that overlook the village streets and the valley, where you can be tempted by the aroma of homemade Italian mountain pastries and delicacies.

For more information, please visit www.arabba.it

Have you ever thought about riding a horse around Venice?

Maybe not right in the centre, even though people used to ride through the city until the late Middle Ages, even in St Mark’s Square, until it was prohibited.

One of the bells in St Mark’s bell tower is called “trottiera” because it announced Great Council meetings and the nobles would arrive on horseback, trotting. However, you can ride on the Lido, with a walk along the lagoon, the beach or along the “murazzi” dams, riding a tame horse that will help you discover new places and views in an unusual way. At the Circolo Ippico del Lido, Via Colombo 41, you can go on these rides, admiring Venice from a different perspective or exploring unexpected panoramas.

To get back to the city center, or rather along its canals, perhaps you would like to learn how to row Venetian-style. Standing on the stern of a “sandolo” or a “batella a coda di gambero” (boats typical of the lagoon), like a gondolier with an oar or, for the more daring, “alla valesana” with two oars, as they used to do in the fishing valleys? All you need to do is book a lesson and you will be rowing along the small canals, obviously far from the Grand Canal and the busier routes. You might be a bit clumsy at first but you will gain confidence, and you can explore a particular kind of Venice, almost like the Venetians of yesteryear.

Here is another suggestion for those who love to try new and different things: discover the city from the water, or rather on the surface of the water, with a ride in a kayak. It’s an alternative to the Venetian rowing lesson, but it’s still a matter of rowing, and in fact in Venice it couldn’t be anything else. Travelling along quiet canals is a way to see Venice from another viewpoint, perhaps the most suitable for a city born on the water. You can imagine what life was like in the past, and how people moved with times marked by the seasons, but also strong arms that rowed to move the boats loaded with vegetables from the islands, fish caught in the sea or the lagoon, goods transported to the city’s warehouses, and, as you see today, people on the gondolas.

For tourists with enquiring minds and who love literature or cinema, a novel way to tour Venice is to wander through its alleyways and squares in search of the places described in books and seen in films.

Venice is a city that, since time immemorial, has inspired novels and has often been chosen as the setting for famous films. Who isn’t familiar with Shakespeare’s Othello or the Merchant of Venice and their Venetian scenery? The beautiful palace overlooking the mouth of the Grand Canal is even known as the “House of Desdemona”.

Over the years, other well-known stories have followed these, often inspiring films in which this lagoon city provides the backdrop for stories set in a past that is often more imaginary than real, or else in eras closer to our own.

Some you may remember Roger Moore’s daring escape in his role as 007 on a “gondola on wheels” that rolls through Saint Mark’s Square in the film Moonraker, as well as the more recent Casino Royale, and Indiana Jones in the film The Last Crusade, when he is chased into the church of San Barnaba.

Other films past and present include The Tourist and Death in Venice, from the novel of the same name by Thomas Mann, set in the Lido and filmed in part in the Hotel des Bains. And last but not least, there is of course a long list of films inspired by one of Venice’s most well-known citizens: Giacomo Casanova.

Venice is also the location where another famous character from the thriller genre lives and works: Commissioner Brunetti, the brainchild of American writer Donna Leon, who investigates multiple murder cases in the city. Although the writer never wanted her books to be translated into Italian, the stories of this Venetian police officer have proven particularly popular outside Italy, most notably in Germany where there was a TV series which was filmed in various parts of Venice.

An honorary Venetian, the Welsh writer Philip Gwynne Jones, has set several of his novels in the city, including Vengeance in Venice and The Venetian Game, which see the main character, English Honorary Consul Nathan Sutherland, solving various cases. And what better street for the consul to live in than “Rio Tera dei Assassini”?