A visit to iconic retro-futurist tower T Hotel will introduce you to a new and artsy side of Cagliari. After you’ve checked out the cavernous lobby and the quirky gallery, head up to look back down on the enormous public space that emerges below you.
Parco della Musica opened in 2011 as the centrepiece of a cultural hub. A series of art exhibitions, concerts at Teatro Lirico, and a place to relax amid the fountains (erupting to the chimes of Händel’s Water Music) make it all very refreshing.
Up on the Bastione San Remy the views over Cagliari can make you mighty thirsty; but luckily Caffè Librarium has its pedestrian area and just the right measure of night-time bar chic. Get here early though to grab yourself a place on one of the white seats or chaises lounges under palms and parasols, where you can watch
owner Danilo and his skilful barmen as they shake and stir the fruity cocktails for all walks of Cagliari’s crowd. Inside there’s a room from the 1300s, where you might bump into writer Massimo Carlotto sipping his Calvados-spiked Alligator.
Not many cities in the world have a beach as beautiful as the hidden Cala Fighera, and the extra effort to get there is worth it. East of Cagliari’s city centre, along the Traversa Calamosca road and around the headland from Il Poetto crowds, is the intimate Cala Fighera bay and La Paillotte beach bar.
Overlooking a pool and beach it’s easy to see why it’s a popular sunset hangout for Cagliaritani, as you follow a rough track from the bar to a pebbly beach with crystal-clear waters. But be prepared for a variety of natural sights, as among the macchia scrub you might surprise the occasional nudist bather.