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In less than seven years, the Cité du Vin has become the world’s largest museum dedicated to wine culture. Far from just Bordeaux itself, you can explore a wide range of wine-related themes, including the history of the vineyard’s expansion, the different wine-growing landscapes around the world and some of the secrets behind this noble drink. Let me show you around this essential landmark of the city of Bordeaux.

What is the Cité du Vin de Bordeaux and what makes it so unique?

More than just a museum, it’s a cultural centre devoted entirely to wine. In addition to its permanent and temporary exhibitions, the Cité du Vin boasts rooms for wine-tasting workshops, a media library, two restaurants, an incredible cellar with a wealth of iconic international wines, a shop stocked with wine-related items and souvenirs and, not forgetting, the panoramic belvedere on the 8^th floor!

So, what exactly is there to see and do at Bordeaux’s Cité du Vin?

The Cité du Vin’s permanent exhibitions

I recommend starting with the permanent tour. You’re in luck, because it has just been renovated, only seven years after it opened its doors to the public. I find it even more intuitive and interactive than before. You’ll be given a small tablet that doubles as an audio guide (translated into 8 languages). In this way, you can tailor your visit to the areas that interest you most. There’s really something for everyone, whether you’re keen on history, geography, culture or gastronomy. The tour ends in style with a complimentary glass on the top floor of the Cité du Vin (included in the admission).

Via Sensoria, the new sensory tasting journey

Until 5 November 2023, the Cité du Vin’s new temporary exhibition will take you on an incredible sensory journey. With a wine expert (sommelier) as your guide, you’ll be taken on an immersive tour through the four seasons. Each area features artistic and digital works to enhance your enjoyment as you sample the wines or soft drinks offered. The whole family is welcome to visit, from age 6 upwards.

Tasting workshops

Besides the exhibitions, you can also book one of Cité du Vin’s excellent wine-tasting experiences. These may focus on specific wine-producing countries or regions as well as on particular winemaking techniques or environmental certifications (organic or biodynamic wine-growing). Depending on the theme, they will be hosted by experts to help you expand your knowledge and make exciting discoveries.

Bordeaux 360°

While the Cité du Vin is not specifically about Bordeaux, it is nonetheless located in the world’s wine capital! That’s why it was impossible to overlook this magnificent region. The Cité du Vin invites you to take part in an immersive wine-tasting experience, surrounded by 360° screens, to plunge into the finest Gironde landscapes. A combination of wines and scenery to take you on a journey throughout the area.

What does the Cité du Vin’s architectural design represent?

Many see it as a decanter, but I prefer the architects’ poetic explanation: “This building has no recognisable shape because it is intended to reflect the soul of wine, standing between the river and the city”. It evokes perpetual movement, like wine swirling in a glass, a vine growing, or the flows and eddies of the Garonne River. As for the gilded panels, they conjure up Bordeaux’s pale limestone, the shimmer of a sweet wine or the sparkle of the river flowing below the building. A new photographic exhibition on the ground floor provides an opportunity to explore this building’s architecture in greater detail, focusing on the idea of movement.

Can you eat at the Cité du Vin?

Yes, of course. There are several dining options in and around the Cité du Vin. On the ground floor, you’ll find a café-brasserie (café-brewery) opening towards the gardens, while the seventh floor has a gourmet restaurant boasting panoramic city views. Opposite the Cité du Vin, you’ll find Les Halles Bacalan, a concept that combines a grocery market and a food court. It features a selection of stalls selling regional products including oysters, foie gras and cured ham, as well as a number of places to eat. Finally, I can recommend a somewhat secluded spot nearby: the Bar de la Marine with its popular shaded terrace in the summer. Don’t forget to book, as it quickly fills up.

How to get to the Cité du Vin?

The Cité du Vin lies in Bordeaux’s northern Bassins à Flots neighbourhood. It’s on tramway line B, at the “Cité du Vin” stop. You can’t miss it. It can also be reached by bike from the historic city centre, with bike rentals and parking stations nearby. There is also a paid car parking on the other side of the street. A much more original way of getting there is by “batcub”, a public river shuttle service. You can board at Stalingrad, at the foot of the stone bridge (right bank) or from the pontoon at Place des Quinconces. The shuttle will drop you off right in front of the museum. This fun way of getting to the Cité du Vin is my personal favourite, with impressive views along the way.

I hope all this has inspired you to visit this amazing museum that has taken its place as one of Bordeaux’s premier landmarks. It’s well worth a visit, both for experienced connoisseurs as well as for those who are new to the world of wine. Don’t be overwhelmed by the building’s impressive size and unusual shape, although you should still plan on spending a while there, because I’m sure you’ll love it.

And if you’d like to see the wineries afterwards, click here to find how to visit Bordeaux’s vineyards in a day.

The city of Bordeaux is known as the wine capital of the world. Simply put, it is the largest vineyard certified by protected designations of origin (AOC).

There are some sixty, from Saint-Emilion to Pauillac, passing through Sauternes. It is easy to lose yourself, because all in all, the department alone registers more than 5,000 wine properties. Here they are commonly known as “châteaux” even if at times they do not appear to be. But then, by what means does one proceed in this Bordeaux Region and how do you decide how to divide your time?

I’m from Bordeaux and have spent ten years visiting the vineyards both as a blogger and an independent wine tourism guide. In this article, I give you the benefit of my experience, so that you too can discover the vineyards of Bordeaux, be it is your first time, or a seasoned visitor like me.

Book a day trip with an agency or through the tourist office.

• Getting to Bordeaux’s vineyards by public transport.

• Original ways to discover the Bordeaux vineyards.

• Visit the vineyards of Saint-Émilion by electric bike

• Discover the wines of Bordeaux while staying in the city. • Attend an event scheduled for that weekend.

Reserve a day tour with an agency or through the Tourism Office

My first piece of advice would be to hire a guide. Start by obtaining information from the tourism office – Office de Tourism de Bordeaux – that has discovered the vineyards, one of its main activities. I’d also recommend checking out a dedicated internet site Bordeaux Wine Trip.

Reserving a guide for a day tour is always best, to accompany you. They will provide you with key information to understand the vineyards and wine production in the region. This will also enable you to ask any questions you may have as you discover that it is a complex and infinitely exciting world. The idea one imagines regarding Bordeaux wine is often very distant from reality, and hardly representative of their diversity.

with whom I work on a regular basis and who propose a day tour to discover the prestigious appellations of Margaux and Saint-Emilion, which will allow you to quickly understand the difference between the wines from the left and right banks. Even if you have your own vehicle, remember that between drinking and driving you must choose. Which explains why a chauffeur is advisable. You will find all types of tours of this kind with different agencies on this page of the tourism office.

Wine tour Olala Bordeaux © Vincent Micou

Visiting the Bordeaux vineyard by public transport

If you prefer to visit by your own means, it is possible, but get organised. As much as to advise you instantly, the vineyard is the country. The public transport is not the best adapted to visit the vineyards. To be honest, it is not easy to juggle the timetables of public transport with the visiting hours of the châteaux, although possible. There are three solutions: the transportation network of the metropolis of Bordeaux TBM (tramway, bus and bicycle rent), trains express régionaux TER and the department buses TransGironde.

Certain estates are circled by the city and therefore easily accessed, such as Château Les Carmes Haut Brion, Château Pape Clément, Château Haut-Brion, or Château Luchey-Halde denomination Pessac-Léognan. Taking the tramway to the terminal of “Pyrenees”, you can also rent a bike to discover other châteaux of the same appellation. Finally, under appellation Haut-Médoc in Blanquefort, there is also Château Saint-Ahon and\ Château Dillon.

By train, you can visit Margaux, Moulis, Listrac and Pauillac in the Medoc, as well as the famous village Saint-Émilion on the right bank. Attention, this leaves you at the foot of the hill and you must walk some twenty minutes to the location known by its acclamation as a Unesco world site. The places are not regular by regional transport, and you can buy your ticket online, the counter or automatic dispensers at the station.

Original ways to discover the Bordeaux vineyards`

More companies are proposing unusual visits of the vineyards to Saint-Emilion. In the middle of vineyards, one sees golf buggies, segway, VTT and electric bike boards. You can also take a tour of the village and surroundings on tuk-tuk or small tourist train with trip commented. Some collection vehicles, as well as old English taxis, 2CV or convertible Cadillac’s also tour the vineyard. One can also see side cars. Finally, why not take an airlift and rent a hot air balloon in the early morning?

Visit the vineyards of Saint-Émilion by electric bike

To truly soak up the scenery and admire the châteaux, I recommend a cycling trip around Saint-Émilion. The hills surrounding this World Heritage village are among the most picturesque in the Gironde. An electric bike is ideal, as this is one of the most hilly parts of the region. However, there are technically no actual cycle paths in this area, so you’ll have to take the country roads. It’s best to go with an experienced guide who can take you along the back roads and show you the most spectacular views. The most reputable agency for wine tours is Rustic Vines. Departures are organised from Bordeaux and Saint-Émilion on your own bikes, including visits to two estates and a picnic lunch. I also do lots of tours for them, as I find it’s the best way to discover the vineyards, understand the winemaking cycle and appreciate the landscape.

For something more original, you can also venture out on the Roger-Lapépie trail. This former railway line has been adapted as a cycle path and runs through the Entre-Deux-Mers, an important wine-growing region that produces mainly dry white wines and red wines under the Bordeaux name. The railway stations along the way have been transformed into tourist stops, and you can even visit the magnificent Abbey of Sauve-Majeure.

Discover the wines of Bordeaux staying in the metropolitan area

You do not wish to dirty your shoes, but rather discover the wines of Bordeaux without having to leave the city? It is quite possible. To do so, there is the essential Cité du Vin. Having said that, it does not specifically target the wines of Bordeaux but relates to distinct cultural aspects of the beverage. The Musée du vin et du négoce is itself focused on the wine history of the city.

But personally, the spot I prefer to increase my knowledge is the Conseil Interprofessional des Vins de Bordeaux, the CIVB. A management organisation responsible for promoting wines from Bordeaux. To do so they have created two things, a wine school where one can reserve learning sessions more or less long, adapted to the level as well as an extraordinary wine bar where the menu changes all the time and presents the true diversity of appellations, all at a very reasonable price!

You cannot miss it; it is a magnificent building right in front of the tourism office.

Make the most of an event taking place IN BORDEAUX

Throughout the season the calendar of events is loaded in the vineyards of Bordeaux. There are open house week ends every month. In general, this allows visiting properties easier, and those which are not usually open. The opportunity also to meet some independent wine growers who will themselves present their production. There are also delicious wine tasing events in the centre of Bordeaux organised by the store Terre de Vins. Finally, the great mass takes place every year no longer the last weekend of June on the keys of Bordeaux, it is the Fête du Vin ! During several days, the city is effervescent with fireworks, tasting stands, open air concerts, visits of great sailboats, and numerous other events. Advance sales take place as from the month of December.

Bordeaux Fete le Vin © Christophe Correy

Another highlight is the Fascinant Week-end (Fascinating Weekend) in mid-October! Over the course of four days, hosts of wine estates holding the Vignobles et Découvertes label open their doors all over France and, of course, in Bordeaux. To celebrate the occasion, the vineyards organise a whole range of unique events and activities to enjoy.

Finally, the vineyard of Bordeaux is no less inaccessible than one could imagine. There are hundreds of chateaux open to wine tourism, from the small family property of Entre-deux-Mers aux Grands Crus Classés du Médoc. One can even dine and sleep in certain properties of which the best is highlighted in Best of Wine Tourism.

Well, do not wait any longer, the vineyards of Bordeaux are only a flight away from you. As for myself, I am already looking forward to seeing you in the vineyards.

I love this time of year, when the vineyards turn a thousand different colours and the town is once again draped in dazzling lights for the end-of-year celebrations. Here’s a rundown of what’s on in Bordeaux at the moment, and what you can get up to over the winter period.

Christmas markets

On 26 November, the traditional Allées de Tourny Christmas market will open its doors to the public for one month. I’m sure you can already smell the enchanting aroma of hot wine, roasted chestnuts and gingerbread! The market’s iconic merry-go-round and 150 wooden cabins make it a must-visit location for the end-of-year celebrations, and you’ll find it between the Grand Théâtre and the recently renovated Place Tourny.

For something more original, why not check out the I.Boat floating Christmas market? I.Boat is well-known for their electro nights, but it has so many other tricks up its sleeve. On the other bank, you’ll find an eco-friendly and sustainable market called écosystème Darwin which is well worth a visit. Foodies, take note: be sure to check out the new organic chocolate shop, where you can see them making bars of chocolate in front of your very eyes!

Brand-new exhibition in Parc Bordelais

There’s something new happening this year. The installation of 500 huge sculptures, made from metal frames covered in silk, is transforming Parc Bordelais. They’re actually traditional lanterns, which were made in France by Chinese artisans. There are thirty or so differently-themed scenes for you to discover, from nightfall on 12 November to 2 January, between 6 and 10pm.

The Lumières Légendaires light show will immerse you in a fantasy universe full of giant sweets and all kinds of animals. The mythical creatures were my favourite, especially the dragons and unicorns. Some of the animals are staggeringly realistic, like the bees collecting pollen, the deer in the underbrush, or the jellyfish tunnel. It’s a world of wonder which is sure to astound adults and children alike.

Lumières Légendaires au Parc Bordelais ©Vincent MICOU.jpg — Lumières Légendaires at the Parc Bordelais ©Vincent Micou

Rue Sainte-Catherine, Cours de l’Intendance, and other beautiful avenues of this Gironde capital will be lit up during the same time period.

Bassins de Lumières

Since opening its doors in 2021, the Bassin de Lumières has seen an endless stream of visitors. This unlikely cultural space will present you with a cultural experience like you’ve never seen before: a sound and light show projected onto the anti-bombing walls of this submarine base! The show is reflected by the very water where Italian and German submarines were stationed during World War Two. One of the short opening cinematics gave me shivers, because you see one of these submarines return to its old berth.

Until 2 January, come and experience the magnum opuses of impressionist painters such as Monet, Renoir, Chagall, Pissarro… Their paintings have been deconstructed and set to music as part of a show revealing all their fine details, as well as the genius of their creators. Gustave Klimt and Paul Klee are at the reins of the night-time performances each evening, which generally take place on Friday and Saturday nights as well as during the school holidays.

At the beginning of the new year, there’ll be some new exhibits on show here. This immersive journey into some of the most beautiful works of art is sure to leave a lasting impression, even on regular museum-goers.

Bassin de Lumières bordeaux — Bassin des Lumières ©Vincent Micou

Flavours of the South West

Not far from the Bassin de Lumières, you can go Christmas shopping at the Halles de Bacalan. There, you’ll find the best products from Nouvelle-Aquitaine, such as foie gras and poultry from the south west, and even oysters from Arcachon Bay. And don’t forget the famous Bordeaux cannelé! This dessert was created when nuns began using leftover egg yolks (as the whites were used for clarifying wine), and they’d flavour their recipe with rum and vanilla from the West Indies.

Just opposite, the Cité du Vin is full of great gift ideas, such as ZETA trainers, which are made from the remains of grapes used for wine production (and of course, these trainers come in a wine box). Every time I visit, I can’t help but buy a bottle from their impressive wine cellar, which contains hundreds of different kinds of wine from all over the world.

From there, you can continue your shopping trip along the Bord’eau Village quays (formerly Marques Quay). There are some cut-label boutiques and a local produce grocery (called L’Échoppe de la Lune), along with some restaurant bars. It seems that this time of year, hot chocolates from Lindt are all the rage (as my wife will happily confirm).

Golden hour on the quays

There’s no shortage of passers-by admiring the sun setting over the Garonne, and the magnificent Jacques-Chaban-Delmas lift bridge. But the best place to watch the show is from a boat. Just hop on Bat3, a public transport boat which connects different pontoons along the two banks (Stalingrad, Quinconces, Les Hangars, the Cité du Vin, and Lormont). It’s an economic way to take a trip along the river.

coucher de soleil sur la Garonne — Sunset on the Garonne ©Vincent Micou

Port de la Lune Cruise

For a romantic soirée, however, I recommend booking a dinner cruise aboard the Sicambre. All the food on this veritable floating restaurant is prepared onboard using fresh, local produce. Settle in for a two-hour river tour alongside the illuminated façades of the city of Bordeaux, which has been classed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Did you know that this stretch of the Garonne is affected by the tide? It’s a reminder of how close by the Gironde estuary and the Atlantic really are. The wealthiest part of the city was built along these curved banks, earning it the nickname ‘Port de la Lune’ (or Port of the Moon). I like to think about the large sailboats and steamboats who would offload their wares here, before loading up barrels of local wine to export to the rest of the world.

These days the actual commercial harbour is further downstream, and the only boats who get to experience such a view are cruise ships. The locals are happy to have the quays to themselves again, as they can stroll, have picnics, run, and cycle between the two banks. In June each year, a big river festival or wine festival (it alternates each year) takes place between the Miroir d’Eau and the Hangars. Prepare to see some exceptional boats turn up for the occasion.

fête du fleuve bordeaux — River festival ©Vincent Micou

Candlelight Bordeaux

As you wait outside for your chance to celebrate, how about visiting a glittering candle-lit concert? It’s something many big cities around the world have started doing, but in Bordeaux it’s been a big hit. The magnificent Palais de la Bourse will soon host a homage to Michael Jackson (on 22 December), Vivaldi (29 December), and Mozart (30 December). But Candlelight concerts also take place in other exceptional locations such as the Faïencerie and the Notre-Dame Church. Make sure to keep an eye on the schedule, because they happen all year round.

Ocean of Lights

There’s nothing like a steamy, 34-degree outdoor bath to warm yourself up in the middle of winter. But the experience becomes even more enjoyable after nightfall, when you’ll be surrounded by hundreds of shimmering lanterns. We suggest visiting the Calicéo baths in Bordeaux-Bruges during their night sessions on Thursday evenings from October to March. It’s a bit outside of the city centre, but it’s the perfect way to relax.

Afterwards, enjoy a Turkish bath with eucalyptus essential oils to relax your skin and lungs, which are put through the mill this time of year. Then, I’d recommend wrapping things up with the sauna, so you can warm up and get some deep relaxation. If you’d rather avoid thermal shock though, opt for the Sanarium, as the heat is a bit more forgiving.

ocean de lumieres bordeaux — Océan de lumières ©Calicéo Bordeaux

Even during winter, Bordeaux never ceases to entertain us. Some say the ideal way to discover the city’s golden stone architecture is in the opaline quality of the light this time of year. It probably won’t snow, but such a festive and food-loving city is sure to leave you spellbound.

While the Cordouan lighthouse was built for the primary purpose of keeping guard over the mouth of the Gironde estuary, it has far exceeded this utilitarian function. Its architecture proves irresistible to visitors to this unique building.

The Cordouan lighthouse has long been referred to as the lighthouse of kings and has just been named “2019 Lighthouse of the Year” by the International Association of Marine Aids to Navigation and Lighthouse Authorities to mark World Marine Aids to Navigation Day. This year, France has nominated the Cordouan lighthouse for inclusion on the World Heritage List for 2020. A support committee has been set up, and the campaign is backed on social media using the hashtag #UNESCORDOUAN.

This remarkable building deserves such recognition. The care taken over its construction is impressive considering it’s found in the middle of the sea and can’t be seen from the coast. Built in stone and sculpted on all sides, the lighthouse was commissioned in 1584 by Henri III, who entrusted the project to Louis de Foix. Its construction was finished in 1611, but work resumed from 1786 to 1789 to add a further 20 metres in height. This took it to 67.5 metres tall. Another interesting fact is that it is the last remaining lighthouse to be continuously inhabited by its keepers and visitors.

Two options for boat crossings: from Port Médocin Gironde on La Bohème or from Royan in Charente-Maritime on the other side of the estuary on La Sirène. Visits are conducted at low tide, so opening times vary. I set off from Port Médoc, 8 kilometres from the lighthouse, in a boat that could carry around a hundred passengers. Just before we get there, I transfer to the amphibious shuttle that will drop me off just opposite the entrance to the lighthouse. The shuttle does several trips between the boat and lighthouse to transport all the visitors. The tide continues to go out during my visit, so I follow a paved path, which wasn’t visible when I arrived, from the lighthouse for a few hundred metres. Jumping over puddles and rocks, I make my way back to the shuttle waiting for us on a sandbank, before boarding the boat back to Port Médoc.

In the meantime, I visit this unique monument, which is continually restored to repair damage caused by the sea and wind. I climb the 301 steps, each level offering its share of discoveries: the entrance hall, with the former guards’ room in the corner, and the apartments reserved for the King, even though no king has ever visited. Even carving the initials “MTL”, for Louis XIV and Maria Theresa of Spain, into the lighthouse wasn’t enough to entice the monarch to come. Higher up is the chapel with its Saint Anne marble floor, Corinthian pilasters and stained glass windows. Here, we find the monograms of Henri III and Henri IV, as well as a bust of Louis de Foix. Mass is still celebrated here often. The Girondins Room was created when the tower was made taller. Its large stone staircase is a surprise in this type of building. It’s followed by the lantern room, where the lighting material was stored, and just before the gallery, where you can admire the panoramic views, we find the old keeper’s watch room, with its desk. This round room is clad in wood from floor to ceiling. On the way back down, I pass through the completely oak-panelled engineer’s apartment, found in the crown of the lighthouse on the ground floor. The Cordouan lighthouse: a short trip across the water, a grand voyage through time.

The Bacalan district of Bordeaux, which stretches out along the Garonne, is an up-and-coming area that had long been snubbed by traditional residents of Bordeaux, who viewed it as too working class. This status of a terra incognita has enabled it to host offbeat artistic experiences.

While Bacalan’s skyline may now be studded with cranes erecting buildings left, right and centre, the area still maintains a healthy dose of marginality, combining tradition with the artistic initiatives and sense of shifting and forgetfulness that give it its charm. You just have to push on a little further than the Cité du Vin to find it.

Les Vivres de l’Art reflects the mood of this unpromising-looking area, where graffiti tags abound. Les Vivres de l’Art was created around ten years ago by artist Jean-François Buisson, who took over some of the historic buildings – two stone pavilions of the former Vivres de la Marine – on Place Victor Raulin. They had been built between 1786 and 1789 by Joseph Teulère to store the naval food supplies that arrived at or were dispatched from the port of Bordeaux. The main building facing them, with its beautiful pediment and a tree growing out of it, has fallen into disrepair, with no roof and no windows, although it is listed as a “Historical Monument”. The restoration of the two pavilions occupied by Les Vivres de l’Art has just been completed. The rusted metal doors, designed by Jean-François Buisson, are all different, with cut-outs, hollows and graphic reliefs.

He has also installed spectacular sculptures throughout the site. And to bring the place to life, he has invited resident artists into the workshops. The site also hosts events, fashion shows and performances as a way of supporting contemporary creativity.

Between the two pavilions, a former blockhouse built during the Second World War now serves as a street café. Tables are set up everywhere under the trees for you to take a refreshing break, while there are also sculpture benches where you can soak up the atmosphere.

Location: here

In just a few days, Bordeaux has boosted its range of museums with the reopening of the Museum of Bordeaux and new rooms at the Museum of Aquitaine. The two initiatives give visitors a better understanding of Bordeaux, its history and its environment.

The inhabitants of Bordeaux have been without their museum for ten years. And they were anxious to get it back. The Museum was already a magnificent building, a private mansion built in 1778 for Nicolas de Lisleferme in the grounds of the Public Gardens. It became a stop-off for the city’s smaller inhabitants on their way to play in the park. Collections have been exhibited there since 1862. During the last ten years, the building has been renovated and adapted. Meanwhile, a 1,000m² storehouse was built to house the museum’s stuffed animals and restore them to their former glory. Of a collection numbering more than one million specimens, just 3,492 are now exhibited so that they can be better classified, explained and displayed. The exhibition spaces are both scientific and fun. Visitors’ hearing is also stimulated by sounds at the entrance to the rooms, where they can listen to the waves crashing and ebbing on the shore and big waves breaking further out to sea.

On the ground floor, visitors are greeted by the Museum’s longtime mascot, Miss Fanny, an Asian elephant who travelled with the circus and who died in 1892 in Bordeaux, where she had been adopted. As contrast, a tiny shew has been placed at her feet. On the first floor, the Aquitaine coast is in the spotlight with a stunning reconstruction of the oyster stakes of Arcachon Bay, rising from the mud in a lifelike display created by an artist. On the second floor is the magical Souverbie gallery. The skeleton of a whale looms large over animals from across the globe, including polar bears, giraffes, camels and hippopotamuses. The restored 19th-century display cases exhibit all sorts of animals, including the small Pyrenean brown bear, now extinct, and the impressive Dogue de Bordeaux. There are a few themed rooms too, including Eat Me if You Can, A Dentist’s Paradise and All the Babies, a space especially for children. For a deeper understanding, 22 interactive terminals, 18 video screens and 10 listening stations are ready to be explored by visitors.

For more information, go to https://www.museum-bordeaux.fr/en
Address: Hôtel de Lisleferme – 5 place Bardineau – 33000 Bordeaux

Opening hours: open Tuesday to Sunday

Summer opening hours, from April to September: 10.30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Winter opening hours, from October to March: 10.30 a.m. to 5.30 p.m.

Closed on Mondays and holidays except 14 July and 15 August

The Museum of Aquitaine has also embraced multimedia, with eight large projection screens, 14 interactive terminals and 5,000 digitally archived documents to stage its 20th- and 21st-century rooms. An immersive approach lets each visitor decide how far into the area they want to delve. These rooms shed new light on Aquitane for those inhabitants who weren’t aware of all their region had to offer, as well as for visitors who want to use it as a starting point to discover Nouvelle-Aquitaine, a vast area whose borders were expanded a few years ago. Its wide range of landscapes, from coast to forests, via mountains, sets the scene for traditional activities such as viticulture, forestry and agriculture. Manufacturers have produced models, such as CEA Cesta with its bright pink model Laser Mégajoule, Dassault with its Rafale C single-seater and the Safran Helicopter with its Arriel motor. The exhibition, which charts the transformation of Bordeaux in just a few years and the arrival of the aerospace industry, a leading economic sector, will spark the imaginations of big and small visitors alike. Bordeaux and its surroundings can’t be boiled down to pretty postcards. The Museum also puts itself on display. Occupying the premises of the former Arts and Sciences Faculty of Bordeaux, it exhibits a plaster cast of the Athena of Velletri, painted black by students during the May ’68 protests.

For more information go to http://www.musee-aquitaine-bordeaux.fr/en
Address: 20 Cours Pasteur, 33000 Bordeaux, France
Opening hours: Open from Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Closed on Mondays and holidays, except 14 July and 15 August

For many years, the inhabitants of Bordeaux were unable to access the River Garonne because of the port, warehouses and railings lining it. Now they’re taking it back thanks to a new layout and the Bordeaux River Festival.

The Bordeaux River Festival symbolises the taking back of the Garonne and the newly accessible quays. This public demonstration takes place every two years, alternating with the Bordeaux Wine Festival. For its eleventh edition, it teamed up with the city’s cultural season, this year entitled “Liberté! Bordeaux 2019” and based on the “Spirit of the Enlightenment“. This idea of liberté is also connected to the large spaces across the region of Gironde.

The Bordeaux River Festival, which will take place from the 20^th to 23^rd of June 2019, will mark the start of this cultural season. It includes the free Entretiens de la Liberté exhibition at the Station Ausone, part of the Mollat Library, on themes including artistic and religious freedom and the freedom of women. Another must-see is Horizon Liberté! Prendre la mer pour vivre libre exhibition at the Museum of Sea and Marine Life until the end of October, and Les Bateaux de la Liberté, an exhibition on the quays open from the 20^th to 23^rd of June and curated by the Dossiers d’Aquitaine publishing house. The exhibition will display the different boats used to promote freedom, for example to transport migrants, Spanish refugees or those fleeing the Nazis.

For something a bit more light-hearted, free concerts will take place in the evenings in Place des Quinconces. There’ll be something for everyone (including Carmina Burana, the Orchestre National Bordeaux Aquitaine accompanied by a 380-strong choir, and singers Zazie and Jeremy Frérot). The Bordeaux River Festival is also a meeting point for large sailing boats and will be graced by the Kruzenshtern and Sedov, both Russian; the Skeaf, from the great Pacific garbage patch and which fights against French plastic pollution; small French crafts and the Zenobe Gramme, the only sailing boat in the Belgian Navy! You’ll be able to visit all of them. But you’ll need to be quick, because on the evening of 23 June they’ll set sail and leave Bordeaux. Bookings (€5 for adults, free for children under 6) can been made on the Bordeaux Tourism Office website. And to make the river even more spectacular, fireworks are planned for the evenings of Thursday 20 and Saturday 22 June, at 11 p.m., on the theme of flora and fauna.

No Bordeaux celebration is complete without a few tasty treats to nibble on. Stalls selling local products will be set up along the quays, while white wine will enjoy the spotlight at a party dedicated entirely to it (€10 gets you three tastings, as well as a glass and holder to take home). And in the Botanical Gardens, on the Garonne’s right bank, two meals will be imagined by a range of chefs.

Location: see the map here

It is impossible to come to Bordeaux without seeing the Grand-Théâtre. Not far from the quays, it is the focal point of major areas of the city. With its imposing size and majesty. Its high-quality, dynamic and imaginative programming, make it a key part of 21st century culture.

Although the Grand Théâtre is also known as the Opéra National de Bordeaux (ONB), with building and function being closely intertwined, as an institution, this place of culture is also a place of entertainment widely open to various audiences. It also played host to Tango à l’Opéra, a programme with demonstrations, Tango classes and conferences. Far from the world of “classical mornings” that I attended, as a young college student having to familiarise herself with the repertoire of tragedies and comedies in the school’s programme for the year.

Without losing its aura, the Grand Théâtre has evolved with time, whilst always maintaining its excellence. Its architecture is fascinating with the twelve Corinthian columns at the front of the facade forming a gallery. They are surmounted by twelve statues, muses and goddesses of the arts, for the majority. The statues are the work of Pierre Berruer but the entirety of the building was imagined by Victor Louis who came up with a project, meeting the highest expectations of the Guyenne Governer and the jurats bordelais. Since 1780, the year of its inauguration, the Grand Théâtre has seen music and ballet lovers ever dazzled by its elegant vestibule and its grand staircase lit by an oculus. It directs and plays its part in the Route des Théâtres Historiques de France.

The building has been restored and adapted over time. The great hall, for example, has regained its original colours, the blue, white and gold-colours of royalty and no longer the red.It accommodates 1114 seats and no more than 1700 for comfort reasons. And the “small” 700-seat concert hall for chamber music, has been transformed into a big hall. Recently restored, its gold has rediscovered its shine. The largest theatrical employer outside of Paris, the ONB has 400 employees including 200 artists.The establishment has retained costumers, dressmakers and decorators. The programme is varied with lyrical, symphonic, baroque music, piano recitals, ballet and jazz. It also makes use of the Auditorium, a contemporary building located nearby, which has the largest orchestra pit in Europe.

The ONB is particularly interested in young audiences and devotes 15 specific shows to them each year. They also offer L’opéra en baskets for those under the age of 28, so that they can attend specific performances and meet the artists over a cocktail. In the upcoming months ONB will host Renaud Capuçon and David Fray who will interpret the sonnets from Bach and Beethoven, Daniel Barenboim or Nathalie Dessay. To visit the Bordeaux Grand Théâtre, you have to make a reservation beforehand.

Location: View on the map here

The first Bordeaux S.O GOOD festival of gastronomy and the art of living launched almost under the radar five years ago. The initiative was so successful that it’s been repeated yearly ever since. Taking place in late November, Bordeaux S.O GOOD has become the ultimate place to be for food lovers, refined palates and those of a curious nature.

I was bowled over by the first edition of Bordeaux S.O GOOD (“SO” also stands for “south west” in French, the region where the city is found). Its unusual concept is a good match for the locals of Bordeaux and Aquitaine, who are traditionally bons viveurs. This year, the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and Industry has teamed up with a range of partners to organize three days of festivities, from 16 to 18 November. A weekend during which Bordeaux becomes the international capital of gastronomy.

Chef Pierre Gagnaire will be the patron of this fifth incarnation, accompanied by around one hundred chefs. They’ll be working the ovens in every corner of Bordeaux. Whatever your budget, there’s something for everyone: sampling delicious morsels that combine unexpected ingredients, indulging in sumptuous dinners or enjoying simple lunches. Nothing’s left out, with all products, both sweet and salty, represented.

A trip to Hangar 14 on the banks of the Garonne, which has been rechristened “Foodie Hall” for the occasion and transformed into a giant market offering a wealth of demonstrations, is unmissable. One of the highlights is the auction by the Arcachon Fish Auction House, which decamps to Bordeaux. You could place the winning bid for a lot of fresh fish. To learn how to prepare all of this local produce properly, there are hands-on activities for adults and cooking workshops for little ones. Foodie tours with tastings at every stop are also an unmissable experience at Bordeaux S.O GOOD. And for those who take their food seriously, debates are organized on the themes of food, pleasure, eating well, the art of living, sustainable agriculture and biodiversity.

There’s a lot on offer, and you’ll need to plan your weekend in advance to get the most out of it. Some demonstrations are free, while there’s a fee for others. The Pass, which can be bought in advance on the Bordeaux S.O GOOD website, or in-person, lets you try out unusual culinary creations. It’s vital to book your place for Banquet Night on the Bordeaux S.O GOOD website, from 25 September. There are around fifteen banquets, each organised by a prestigious chef in an unusual location such as a library or museum, and they’re wildly popular. Seats are snapped up as soon as the ticket office opens. The setting, the menu and the wines that accompany it all explain this enthusiasm, which never lessens from year to year. For the brave, there’s a banquet in the dark. And this year’s guest country will be Italy, offering a marriage between the flavours of the Mediterranean and the gastronomy of south west France that promises to be exceptional.

Location: View on the map here.

Bordeaux and its flavours

I’ve discovered two new places in Bordeaux that have taken me right back into the past. As they’re not very far from one another, I can easily visit both when I find myself in the area. The well-known, bustling Chartrons area, where wine-sellers were traditionally based, is right next door to the Bacalan neighbourhood. Bordeaux’s bourgeois long sneered at the Bacalan, deeming it too working-class, but it is now beginning to be held in higher regard. The Cité du Vin, where Chartrons meets Bacalan, was an eye-opener. It’s all right next to the Garonne.

The Port de la Lune warehouses

In 2007, the former warehouses on the wharves along the Garonne were converted into a shopping centre – the Quai des Marques – with outlet stores and cafés. Anna Pédelaborde launched her shop there at the end of last year. It’s called the Echoppe de la Lune, in honour of the Port de la Lune, a nickname for Bordeaux because the section of the Garonne that the city sits on is shaped like the crescent moon. The shop sells historical and gourmet goods, and is a feast for all of your senses! Here you’ll find a range of products created in Bordeaux, not least Marie Brizard liqueur, which was first made in 1755. Visitors are in for a warm welcome and I love going there to rediscover products from my childhood and unearth exciting new concoctions.

A journey through time

The Echoppe de la Lune is like a timeline of food. First you’ve got your Marie Brizard liqueur, then there’s Louit mustard, Tête Noire vinegar and preserves, Vodka Pyla and Moon Harbour whisky, as well as Meneau cordials, Lou Gascoun patés and preserved foods, Cacolac drinking chocolate, Jock powdered desserts, the Lillet aperitif and the Savons de Bordeaux soaps. The furniture matches the period of the products, with a large dresser for the oldest products and shelves or more contemporary sideboards for newcomers. Each product has its own little presentation board. It’s all decorated with Vieillard faïences, and you’ll even find Jacqueline du Pasquier’s book on this type of glazed pottery.

The market makes a comeback

The Halles de Bacalan has taken the indoor markets of yesteryear and given them a facelift. You only have to glance at the architecture of this building, opposite the Cité du Vin, to understand. Artisan producers set up stall here with not only local, tasty produce, some of which is organic and vegetarian, but also Italian and Spanish goods celebrating the delicious gastronomy of these countries. Some of the stalls’ names, such as Les Requins Marteaux, Garg’Antoine and Mouette Rieuse, are amusing puns that I really like. You could of course simply wend your way through the stalls, but you can also soak up the easy-going, gourmet vibes by sampling some of the dishes on offer, like the charcuterie meats and pizzas. Or you could take the weight off your feet at the brasserie overlooking the Cité du Vin.