After more than thirty years living in this city, I’d have to say that autumn is my favourite season to visit Bordeaux. But coming from someone who works in the wine industry, that’s a rather personal opinion. So, let me tell you about the advantages that each season brings for discovering this magnificent city.
With its mild, oceanic climate, Bordeaux is a great place to visit at any time of the year. It never gets too cold, as the Gulf Stream current keeps the region warm. There are occasional spells of frost, but it hardly ever snows. On the other hand, there is a lot of rain from September to April, although this can vary from one year to the next.
Autumn in Bordeaux – harvest time
The reason I love autumn in Bordeaux is, of course, because that’s when the grapes are picked. Harvesting generally begins in the last week of August for the dry whites and Crémant de Bordeaux, continues in September for the reds and ends in October for the grapes with noble rot, which are used to make the famous sweet whites such as Sauternes and Barsac.
The whole region is a hive of activity at this time of year, which is both exciting and stressful for the wine growers. If you visit the vineyards at this time, you may be lucky enough to see the grape-pickers in action, and to sample the ripe grapes or the fermenting juices known as “bourru”.
Then, between mid-October and mid-November, the vineyards burst into a thousand colours, delighting the eyes of visitors and keen photographers alike. As I mentioned in my article on regional specialities, it’s also mushroom season, which grow in abundance in these parts.
Winter in Bordeaux – the city in all its glory
I always find the city at its most beautiful in winter. The first rays of sunlight hit the quayside façades through the morning mist that shrouds the Garonne river. This is when you can really marvel at the city’s stunning architecture. In fact, it’s the largest urban area in the world to have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site!
Then there’s the Christmas market and the end-of-year illuminations to add a touch of festive cheer. It’s the perfect city for shopping and gift planning. It boasts Europe’s longest pedestrianised shopping street, Rue Sainte-Catherine. You’ll also find human-scale shopping centres such as the Promenade Sainte-Catherine, Les Grands Hommes and Bord’eau Village on Quai des Chartrons, not to mention a host of small designer boutiques.
In mid-winter there is occasionally a remarkable weather phenomenon: the Foehn effect. Warmer Saharan winds meet the Pyrenees mountain range. The air loses its moisture at altitude and heats up abruptly as it descends to the plain. As a result, there are sometimes exceptionally high temperatures and sunny days in the middle of winter to warm everyone’s heart.
Spring in Bordeaux – a good time for all
Spring is when the aperitif and terrace dining scene really takes off. As you’ll see, the people of Bordeaux love living outdoors. What’s more, we have the highest per capita proportion of bars and restaurants in the whole of Europe! On that score, we’re on a par with our Spanish and Italian neighbours.
This is the season when the locals take to the quayside for picnics. Everyone jumps on their bikes and makes the most of the fine weather, with open-air concerts and festivals springing up in the city’s squares and parks. Be sure you don’t miss the wine and music festivals, which are usually held simultaneously on the third weekend in June.
Summer – discover Bordeaux at your leisure
Bordeaux turns into a slightly empty city during the school holidays in July and August. But all in all, it’s a great time to visit Bordeaux, as just about everything is open to visitors. It can get quite hot, but you’ll soon find a shady spot to cool off in one of Bordeaux’s narrow streets. And if the heat gets to you, the city is only an hour away from the sea by road or by train. There’s also plenty of entertainment, concerts and events to enjoy during the city’s summer festival scene.
As you can see, Bordeaux really is a destination to discover all year round. This lively, vibrant city will easily keep you busy for several days. So come and have a look around!
