Verona archivos - Page 3 of 6 - VOLARE MAGAZINE

Colle San Pietro has earned its reputation as one of Verona’s must-see destinations. It is here that one of the most beautiful monuments in the city, the Roman theatre, can be visited as part of the renovated archaeological museum. The theatre is one of Verona’s most spectacular and photographed spots, with its cypresses, its stairways, and the houses clinging to the hillside. The top of the hill, where the large terrace belonging to Castel San Pietro is found, offers one of the most beautiful views over Verona, with the wide curve of the Adige, the old town with its geometric grid of streets, and the soaring bell towers.

And now there is yet another reason to visit the hill: the grand opening (or should it be re-opening?) of the new funicular. Although it is referred to as a “funicolare” by the people of Verona, the vehicles are not actually driven by cables, instead using a rack railway system to climb to the top of the hill in under a minute (at two euros for a return ticket), avoiding the steep but incredibly picturesque climb up the steps that wind their way through historic houses, well-kept gardens and Roman ruins. Look at it this way: on an unbearably hot day, when the sun is directly overhead, when your legs are crying out for a break and you do not want your shirt to be drenched in sweat, the funicular is a great alternative, allowing you to discover one of the most beautiful places in Verona.

There are few people left who remember the inauguration of the first Castel San Pietro funicular. It was an ill-fated opening for a project that was designed to draw tourists to one of the city’s main attractions. The idea was first presented in the 1930s, construction started in 1939, and the funicular was completed and opened to the public in 1941. However, this was far from the best time to attempt to relaunch tourism in the city; World War II had thrown Europe into chaos, and Italy was no exception. By 1944, the experiment was as good as finished. The funicular was dismantled, the site became overgrown with weeds, and it would not be spoken of for decades to come.

It was not until the 2000s that the funicular made its way back into the public consciousness. Having found the money needed to rebuild it, a new version of the project and the works was once again undertaken. Finally, in mid-2017, the funicular was reopened. Located beyond the Ponte Pietra, the entrance to the funicular is fairly inconspicuous; walking along Via Santo Stefano, there is a small square on the right, where the brand new building that houses the ticket office is found.

As we mentioned earlier, the funicular is a great new opportunity to discover the beauty of Colle San Pietro. The Roman theatre, which dates back to the first century AD, is still one of the city’s most important live venues (after the Arena, of course), showcasing performances including prose, with a particular focus on Shakespeare, as well as music and dance. There are also several nooks and crannies on the hill where you can sneak a peek without buying a ticket, and if you decide to take a stroll on the night of a concert, you will see groups of people perched on steps and balustrades. What’s more, the road to the hill is closed to traffic when there is a show on, offering a great opportunity to enjoy a stroll along the Adige on the path known as the Lungadige di San Giorgio, which was recently repaved (remaining a pedestrian-only route).

Connected to the Roman theatre, the Archaeological museum was also recently refurbished, allowing you to discover the original core around which the city was founded, dating back even further than the Roman city. No visit is complete without a stop on the terrace at the summit of the hill to check out the incredible view; a unmissable chance to take a selfie with the city spread out behind you. And then, thanks to the funicular, you can be back on solid ground in less than a minute.

A few weeks ago, I had the pleasure of receiving a visitor from abroad, a friend who I hadn’t seen in a while. I had hosted him a few times in Verona, so there wasn’t much left for me to show him in terms of monuments, museums, typical restaurants and bar crawls. Everything had already been seen and digested. So I tried to introduce him to some new things that are happening around the city and which are particularly popular with the locals in Verona.

My friend was arriving at the airport late in the evening, so I thought I would take him for a drink. For a while I’d heard people talking about this new cocktail bar called Soda Jerk, which was always open until late but it was small and busy to the point that you always needed to book. I thought it was a good opportunity to try it out. It is a charming place. There is no sign outside; the only way you can glance inside is through a little porthole. The door is locked and you need to ring a bell to enter. Once inside, you feel like you are part of a secret society of cocktail enthusiasts. The cocktails on offer there are like little works of art.

The following day, I organised a visit for my friend to the Pasqua winery, just outside Verona. The unique aspect of this place is that, as well as being able to try the wide range of house wines on offer, there is also the possibility – under the supervision of a wine expert – to create your own wine blend. We chose a base with Corvina grape (which is typical of Valpolicella) and then mixed it with a Carbernet and a Merlot. It resulted in a very unique blend. I now keep a bottle with my name on it, with the stopper stamped in sealing wax, for special occasions.

Food chapter: recently in Verona, many places have sprung up offering cuisine that is creative but made with local ingredients. We had time to try out a couple. The first was a very hip Burger joint, close to the Roman theatre, and which is called Buns. Not only are the ingredients local, ranging from meat to cheese (everything comes from farms in Lessinia, the mountains above Verona), but the recipes also take their inspiration from tradition. For example, we tried a hamburger marinated in Amarone. The other place was Tapasotto, a bistrot opened in the centre by Verona’s most renowned chef, Giancarlo Perbellini, which, – in the style of a Spanish tapas bar – offers some of its creations at accessible prices. In particular, I remember a horsemeat tartare and fried baby artichokes.

In the evening, we then went to listen to a bit of live music. When I was a youngster, Verona was full of little venues where, on occasion, gigs would be held. They disappeared over time due to complaints from residents and in favour of other more profitable businesses such as fast-food joints and pizzerias. So, I welcomed as a breath of fresh air, the opening of Cohen (named after Leonard Cohen, the Canadian singer who passed away in November 2016), close to the piazza Corrubbio, an area of Verona just before you get to the centre, which is going through a regeneration. You can always hear live music here, especially on the weekend (link to programme): on stage they alternate between folk, country and jazz groups in particular. The best thing is to book a table on the balcony and watch the performances from above, while enjoying a drink. But the venue itself is also worth further exploration, from its wine cellar featuring half-used vintage wines through to its menu which is printed with the covers of iconic records.

My friend really enjoyed his weekend in Verona, which was very different to how he imagined it. And just before leaving, he paid me a big compliment, saying “I really had no idea that there were places like this in Verona”!

It took a clamorous news story for the world to discover the wonders of the Castelvecchio Museum in Verona. The most amazing Art heist in Italy of the current millennium took place on the 19th of November 2015. Some thieves broke into the museum at dusk armed with pistols. They made off with 17 paintings that hung on the walls, including masterpieces by Rubens, Mantegna, Jacopo, Tintoretto, Bellini and Caroto among others. The robbers then vanished into the night by car.

It was a multi-million Euro loss and a shock for Verona. I myself, as many other fellow citizens, also felt a sense of guilt. This is because up until the time of the theft, I did not know that the museum held such masterpieces, even though I had visited there many times from childhood on.

It took months to identify the perpetrators and more time still to locate the stolen artworks, which were found in May of 2016 in the Ukraine. One had to wait until the days leading up to Christmas 2016 to see the paintings returned to Verona after a long diplomatic operation. It was cause for great celebration and relief. But, it also provided an opportunity to rediscover the treasures held inside the Castelvecchio.

Castelvecchio is the former home of the Scaligeri, lords of Verona who ruled the city in the middle ages and before it was conquered by the Republic of Venice. It is a site of great fascination. This is because it is fairly rare to see so imposing and well preserved a manor in the city centre, complete with a moat (alas, nowadays, no longer filled with water) and a drawbridge. It is located along Corso Cavour (the ancient Via Postumia) and borders on the Adige, which you can cross via the castle’s magnificent pedestrian footbridge, one of the city’s main attractions.

The Castelvecchio Museum is located in a large building, inside the perimeter of the Castle, which was restored in the 1950s by the great architect Carlo Scarpa. Its 29 rooms are open to the public and hold collections of medieval, renaissance and modern art, but also ancient weaponry, armour and gear. Even just a walk through the museum allows you to appreciate the magnificent architecture of the castle. You can then go outside along the battlements to see the towers, hanging gardens and walkways used by lookouts.

As noted before, you can afterwards admire the true masterpieces inside, including the previously stolen paintings which are once again a fully-fledged part of the museum’s heritage. Of the 17 stolen works, four are of particularly great and recognised artistic value: the “Madonna della Quaglia” attributed to Pisanello, “St. Jerome the Penitent” by Giovanni Bellini, the “Holy Family with a Saint” by Andrea Mantegna and “Portrait of a Youth with a Drawing” by Giovanni Francesco Caroto.

The latter, in particular, has become a symbol of the museum’s legacy, which many considered irretrievably lost immediately after the robbery. This painting from 1523 seems very modern and is considered by critics as unique in the history of the Renaissance for its realistic rather than idealised representation of childhood. For that reason, it has also become one my favourite works in the Castelvecchio Museum. I must confess, I didn’t know of it up until a few months ago. But, if there is one lesson the art theft taught Verona, it is to learn about, value and protect the many treasures preserved within the museum’s walls, no matter how little known or well hidden.

A few years ago, a friend of mine got me involved in a sport activity which was – to say the least – original. Instead of going for a run in the park or meeting up for a game of tennis or mini-football a couple of times in the week, we made an appointment to meet up in the morning before work along the bankof the Adige River to go canoeing.

I had never held a paddle in my hand before and what followed was not exactly straightforward. . Always strictly in the company of an instructor, we set off from the old dock at the former customs post ,heading up river , We went up bridge after bridge until the Ponte Pietra. For amateur canoeists like us, this was an insurmountable point due to the presence of rapids

I capsized more than once by making a wrong manoeuvre . More than once, I also found myself swimming in the icy water of the river and, cli holding on to the capsized canoe as Itryied to pull it back upthe river bank, so I could set out yet again for the upteenh time.

This experience, which I indeed remember with fondness, did not enamour me with the canoe, to which I do not think myself particularly suited. But it did enamour me with my city, seen from the river. The historic centre of Verona is surrounded on three sides by the river Adige, which thus represents a constant presence. But from down there, from the water surface, a completely different angle opens up, completely new even for those born and brought up in Verona and who believe they know it well. You see a completely different city: compact, with colourful buildings towers and clock-towers lined up and dropping sheer to the river banks, like a long and sinuous skyline – it is difficult to describe it in words until you have seen it with your own eyes.

The Verona stretch of the river Adige, which is the second longest river in Italy after the river Po, in view of its currents and flow, seems more than anything else to be like a great torrent which alternates between stretches which are particularly placid and others which are somewhat frothier. By its nature the river Adige does not allow it to provide an inland waterway transport service, such as those in London or Paris. But you don’t have to be a canoeist to experience the rush of a tour on the waters.

The starting point for exploring the river Adige is definitely the Verona Canoe Club in its new location at the Bottagisio sports centre, a centre recently constructed and the leading light of the city’s sports facilities. From here an association organises rafting tours and excursions, adapted to those aged three and over. This is a route of highly panoramic but also cultural value, as a commentary is given (in Italian and English) covering all there is to know of the history of the navigation on this river, the bridges which cross it and the relationship between the city and its waterway.

The city route is not the only spectacular point along the river Adige for a trip on an inflatable. The same association also happens to arrange excursions on the stretch of river further to the north (departing from the village of Dolcè and arriving in Pescantina) where the crossing of the Ceraino lock is particularly scenic, where the river winds its way along a series of curves against the backdrop of the rocky crags of the ravine, which has the appearance of the true and genuine canyon. For those who have a passion for it, this stretch of the river is the venue for the annual Adige Marathon which, alongside the competitive heats, even allows amateurs with their canoes to join in a great day of celebration.

For centuries, the Republic of Venice ruled the seas. But one of its greatest legacies, and a distinctive feature of the region’s landscape today, is the collection of nearly five thousand Venetian villas scattered over its mainland, some of which are now UNESCO World Heritage sites.

These were designed as the residences of the era’s great landowners and were often made in a neoclassical style recalling the villas of Ancient Rome’s ruling class. The most beautiful and famous Venetian villas are those in the province of Vicenza and the Riviera del Brenta, which were designed by the most famous architect of the period, Andrea Palladio.

In the area round Verona, you can also admire numerous examples of Venetian villas. I like to focus in particular on those which you can easily combine with a cultural or food and wine route. In fact, some of the most renowned wineries in the province of Verona have their headquarters and even winery inside this type of residence.

One of the villas that I have visited most in recent years is definitely Villa della Torre in Fumane. It’s been acquired in recent times by the Allegrini family, the owner of the winery in Valpolicella which bears their name. The villa is also used for receptions and cultural events, but it is worth visiting in any case. It was built in 1500 as a collaborative project of two of the architectural giants of the time, Giulio Romano and Michele Sanmicheli. Its main peculiarity is the originality of the floor plan which is reminiscent of the traditional “domus patrizie”, with a large central courtyard that opens onto differing environments. The property is surrounded by vineyards where some of the Allegrini’s best wines are produced.

A short distance away, in the hamlet of Gargagnago, there’s another big name producer of Valpolicella housed in a magnificent Venetian villa. This would be Masi, the top producer of Amarone, which has its guest house and wine shop there. The residence in question is Villa Serego Alighieri named after a family that descends from the “sommo poeta”, Dante Alighieri. He lived for several years in Verona after being exiled from Florence. The villa dates back to the XIV century and was later extended in several phases. It’s a concentrated collection of frescoed and plastered halls and has a magnificent, well-kept Italian garden. From there, you can admire the great agricultural estate with vines under cultivation since the Middle Ages.

Villa Mosconi Bertani (also known as Villa Novate) is a separate issue. It’s the most famous and important villa in the Valpolicella region if only because the now celebrated Amarone was invented in its cellars. The villa is located in the Negrar Valley, again in Valpolicella, and its construction dates back to the second half of the eighteenth century. It’s a villa of clearly Palladian inspiration which has an imposing neoclassical façade, large frescoed halls and an English garden with a romantic cast. Many poets of the calibre of Ippolito Pindemonte and Ugo Foscolo have wandered there in search of inspiration. Inside the villa, owned today by the Bertani family (owner of another renowned cellar in Valipolicella), is one of the oldest operating wineries in Italy. In 1932, the name Amarone was coined there for this wine which is produced using a particular technique for desiccating grapes. Decades later, it would become famous all over the world.

A few kilometres south of Verona, Mantua has kept the rich heritage of the Gonzaga dynasty intact, with its magnificent buildings and “piazze” or squares as well as its important gastronomic traditions. This Italian cultural centre is also a popular shopping destination.

Mantua was recently named the 2016 capital for Italian culture. It’s appropriate recognition for a city that hosts an international literary festival every year in September throughout its squares and theatres. There’s no shortage of reasons for visiting this small town, 30 km south of Verona, and it is easy to reach by train or auto.

Mantua is a little gem both geographically and architecturally. Arriving from the west, you see it pop up on the horizon like an island. While Verona is embraced by a bend in the Adige, Mantua is surrounded on three sides by lakes formed by the Mincio River which originates in Lake Garda and empties into the Po. These bodies of water help isolate the historic centre from everything else around it. It feels even more so since the perimeter of the city is also fortified by walls.

In this way, entering Mantua from “Il Castello di San Giorgio,” or Saint George’s Castle, feels like crossing a threshold into another world. What unfolds before the visitor’s eyes is a succession of magnificent squares and palaces that bear the mark, for the most part, of the Gonzaga family who ruled the city for five centuries.

The historic residence of the Gonzaga, the Doge’s Palace, is particularly famous for its bridal chamber with frescos by the great painter Andrea Mantegna. He is the most famous person from Mantua after the Latin Poet, Virgil.

My favourite place in Mantua, however, is slightly south of the city centre and 15-minutes by foot from the central square or Piazza Sordello. It’s the “Palazzo Te” or Te Palace, a peaceful oasis with artistic wonders from the 1500s by the celebrated Italian architect, Giulio Romano.

Visiting the Palazzo Te is like stepping into a painting gallery. Except that, in this case, there are no paintings on the walls. The paintings… are the walls. Each room is completely frescoed with classic scenes from Greek mythology including the “Cupid and Psyche” room and the “Fall of Giants” room (the most scenically spectacular of all, in my opinion). If the weather is nice, you can enjoy the surrounding park which offers an ideal place for a picnic.

And speaking of food, what makes a visit to Mantua especially enjoyable is its rich gastronomic tradition. Mantua is part of the Lombardy region and Emilian gastronomic traditions have had a strong influence. For this reason, you find pumpkin tortelli, tagliatelle, stews, boiled meat, and freshwater fish in its restaurants and trattorias, as well as the city’s traditional dessert, “sbrisolona,” an almond pastry.

Friends who are natives of Mantua have recommended some traditional places to eat in their city. The one I remember the most, not only for its unusual name, is the Osteria Quattro Tette (the Four Teats Osteria). It serves basic dishes at shared tables and gives hearty portions at moderate prices, all in a homelike atmosphere. The only problem is it opens only two hours daily (from 12.30 to 14.30) and does not accept reservations. So, you have to be prepared to be patience.

Often, I go to Mantua without even setting foot in the city. This happens when I head to Mantua Outlet Village, an actual shopping village just outside the exit to the motorway. It has dozens of shops with famous brands and a wide range of competitively priced clothing.

Before the Christmas holiday and during seasonal sales, the Outlet is filled with thousands of people and long lines of traffic form just beyond the motorway exit. In that case, it’s better to give up on shopping and head straight for the centre of Mantua. I leave my automobile in the Sparafucile parking garage and go across the Ponte San Giorgio (St. George Bridge) by foot. I immerse myself, in the city, an oasis of peace, far from the hustle and bustle.

Verona offers more than just its Arena, Castelvecchio and the Roman Theatre. To find that out, you only have to enter one of its public museums. The five listed below may not be the most famous or popular ones, but they are, perhaps, the most original.

Galleria di Arte Moderna (The Gallery of Modern Art)

Most tourists go through here to reach “La Torre dei Lamberti” (the Lamberti Tower) which offers a beautiful view over the city. But, don’t miss a chance to see the Gallery of Modern Art there as you pass through. On display are works given to the city by important private collectors. These works cover a wide range of art right up to the avant-garde movements of the twentieth century. The setting for the museum is as impressive as its contents. The Museum is housed in the “Palazzo della Ragione” (the Palace of Reason) which was the city court from the Middle Ages up until the 1980s. The restoration of building, completed in 2007, was done in a way that gives visitors a strong impression of the building’s history. From its windows, you have some of the most beautiful views of Verona looking out onto Piazza Erbe and the courtyard of the old market.

Centro Internazionale di Fotografia (International Centre for Photography)

This exhibition space is located in the “Scavi Scaligeri” (the Scaligeri archeological excavation site) in the heart of Verona. It’s a worthwhile visit even in moments when there is no exhibition on display. It’s located in an underground area which forms part of an important medieval age complex. This complex, in turn, sits on the archaeological remains of an ancient Roman villa with beautiful mosaics. Excellent photography exhibitions are mounted in this unique setting. A few years ago, for example, we saw an exhibition of photographs by Robert Capa covering the entire history of the twentieth century. Unfortunately, the Centre will be closed until 15 May 2016 for modifications. (Be sure to note that date on your calendar.)

Museo degli Affreschi (The Fresco Museum)

Frescoes usually decorate the walls of the palaces or churches they were commissioned for. For several centuries between the 700s and 900s, frescoes were, in fact, often “torn off” or taken away from the places they were painted in order to display them elsewhere. This museum takes advantage of this fact and recently reopened with a new exhibition space for fresco art. One notable collection in the museum is that dedicated to the 18th century art historian Giovanni Battista Cavalcaselle. This collection is in the same building with the frescoes from Juliet’s tomb. The frescoes in the museum come from two main historical periods: the Middle Ages and Renaissance. One spectacularly scenic work is the series of equestrian frescoes linked to Charles V and Clement VII.

Museo di Storia Naturale (Museum of Natural History)

This is an traditional style museum located in an historic building opposite the Adige River. Its exhibits are shown on large wooden display boards. Its corridors are a bit dark and the walls show the yellowed mark of time. At the moment, it is scheduled to be moved to a more modern facility. But, its current traditional exhibition space and 18th century style still has a certain charm. The real gem to be found in this museum is the fossil collection. The fossils come mainly from the “pesciara” or ‘fish kettle’ of Bolca. This area, located in the hills east of Verona, is one of the largest Tertiary Era fossil deposits in the world. The variety of fish reflected in the collection is impressive in terms of their quantity and the condition of the fossils. From a scenic point of view, though, the fossilized trees and plants (some more than three metres tall) are also amazing. They create an incomparable petrified forest of a sort. The large wildlife section with its taxidermy animals is a favourite with children of all ages.

Museo Nicolis (Nicolis Museum)

This is in Villafranca, a town approximately ten kilometers south of Verona, and is close to Catullo Airport. Despite not being a big automobile fan, I’ve always been fascinated by this museum. It was created by the industrialist Luciano Nicolis who was an aficionado of classic autos and motorcycles. The exhibit does justice to his incredible collection which included the earliest models made by Fiat, Ferrari, Alfa Romeo, Lancia and Isotta Fraschini. There are some nuggets in the museum that are alone worth the price of admission. For example, the gasoline-run tricycle built in 1885 by automobile pioneer Karl Benz. There is also a DeLorean Dmc 12 better known as the “time machine” in the “Back To the Future” series by Robert Zemeckis.

The First World War has just ended. Italy is among the winners of this conflict which tore Europe apart. But it is a bitter victory for more reasons than the enormous number of lives lost. Italy also lost many border areas inhabited by Italians. It’s against this background that the famous poet Gabriele D’Annunzio promises, “Our victory will not be a crippled one”.

It’s important to keep this historical context in mind if you visit il Vittoriale, the home and museum which D’Annunzio commissioned in the 1920s on the western shore of Lake Garda, in the town of Gardone Riviera.

D’Annunzio was a well-known figure at the time, not only because of his literary merits. His romantic adventures were closely followed as were his daring airplane demonstrations (he was a licensed pilot). He lobbied for Italy’s entry into the war, fought and was wounded.

After the Armistice, he attempted to reconquer the city of Fiume (known today as Rijeka in Croatia) which had gone to Yugoslavia.

D’Annunzio built il Vittoriale to celebrate what he considered his “one-of-a-kind life”. He also wanted to glorify the great history of Italy in the face of its victorious but “humiliating” exit from World War One.

I was a child when I first went to il Vittoriale and was completely enchanted. What other villa in the world has a military ship in the garden?

Or a plane hanging from the dome of an auditorium (D’Annunzio used it to fly over Vienna launching leaflets saying “Long Live Italy!”)? Or an entire semi-circular outdoor theatre overlooking the lake just like the ancient Romans had?

As for the inside of the house? Each room has a descriptive name (“the music room”, “the map-of-the-world room”) where every square centimetre of space is filled with objects: books, paintings, sculptures, prints, photographs, ornaments, furniture, carpets and vases. Even the bathroom seems like a museum. I’ve always wondered how one person managed to amass so many things in just one life.

If your coming from Verona, il Vittoriale is not exactly around the corner. It’s approximately seventy kilometres away, with half the time spent on a provincial road that is often quite busy. But there’s a rather scenic shortcut.

From Torri del Benaco, on the Verona side of the lakeshore, there’s a ferry service (equipped to carry cars) which brings you to the opposite side in twenty minutes, docking in the town of Toscolano Maderno. From there, Gardone Riviera is just about four kilometres to the South.

But why visit only il Vittoriale?

Once you are on the other side, you can take the opportunity to explore this beautiful stretch of shoreline. There, one after another, mountains rise up to the North overlooking the water. For some, the view here is as beautiful as that of the Amalfi Coast.

One of my favourite destinations in this area if Gargnano, a few kilometres from the ferry. It’s a small picturesque village, with cafes and restaurants overlooking the marina where the speciality is freshwater fish from the lake (such as with pike).

It you have time, you can continue on to Limone del Garda, which is a real gem along this stretch of shoreline. For centuries, it has been the furthest place north in Europe for growing lemons, thanks to its special microclimate.

This village was isolated for centuries until the construction of the road around Garda in the 1930s. It’s now well-known for the longevity of its inhabitants.

It’s been found that people from Garda di Limone carry a particular blood protein which reduces age-related illness. They have a sort of elixir flowing through their veins guaranteeing long life.

For this reason, the town has a higher than average proportion of people over one hundred. It’s a decidedly good place to grow old.

With its picturesque views, lively squares and majestic palazzi, Verona is a city that knows how to ravish you with its beauty. At the same time, it’s also a city that knows how to hide away some of its most priceless treasures.

With the Giusti Garden, this is especially the case. For me, it was a recent discovery. Certainly, I had always heard about the Garden. But, like many Verona natives, I had never actually been there and barely knew its whereabouts. Those I knew who had seen it described it to me in grand terms, saying it was a real treasure. I thought to myself, “Could such a little known place be so extraordinary?”

Well, the answer is “yes”. It certainly could. The paradox is that the Garden is probably more well-known outside Verona than by us who live there. People like Mozart and Goethe were captivated by the Garden as they walked around its well-groomed paths. They were particularly impressed by its cypress trees.

“This tree, from its top to bottom, whether young or old, reaches up to the sky with all its branches. It can live a good three hundred years and is, indeed, admirable”, wrote Goethe describing the garden’s cypresses. Today, these trees bear his name and are known as “Goethe’s Cypress”.

But, before talking all about the Giusti Garden, we should say where it is, especially since it can easily escape one’s notice (as I mentioned). To get there, you need to walk away from the Roman Theatre, with the the Adige River on your right. This will lead you left onto Via Santa Chiara. After a while, the street changes name and becomes Via Giardino Giusti. Right at that point, you access the garden via a Renaissance palazzo and its 16th century atrium.

Nothing from the outside gives a hint of what’s to be found once inside. It is a refined sixteenth-century Italian garden with a central axis made up of an imposing avenue of cypresses. This leads to a staircase which ends in a cave carved out of a rock. Above this, there is a panoramic terrace overlooking the garden. From there, you can appreciate the garden’s geometric design and perspective, which makes it seem even larger than it is.

Is it truly worth losing oneself in the garden, which is also a small open-air museum of Renaissance and neo-classical architecture. The garden was created at the behest of Agostino Giusti, a Tuscan nobleman who had moved to Verona. He wanted to recreate a green oasis like those that spring up in Florence, most notably, for example, the Boboli Gardens. Taking advantage of the natural slope, the land was terraced to allow the garden to ascend the hill behind, giving it its characteristic shape.

Among the flower beds and perennially manicured hedges, you also find marble fountains and statues from Greek mythology. There’s even a labyrinth in the hedges. It may not be as complicated as the Minotaur’s, but it’s still one of the oldest in Europe. There are also many lovely romantic corners, making the garden a favourite destination for couples in love.

The Giusti Garden in located in the Veronetta neighbourhood of Verona, an area which is also full of surprises. This was the first part of the city to become truly multi-ethnic in terms of the shopping and entertainment venues you find there. At the same time, Veronetta is also the centre of the University of Verona and most of the students live in the area.

A starting point for exploring Veronetta is Piazza Isolo (Island Square), which is just 50 metres from the entrance to the Giusti Garden. As the name of the Piazza implies, this entire area of the city was once an island. Along what today is called Via dell’Interrato dell’Acqua Morta (the Underground Water Way), a channel off the Adige River once flowed. In the days of the Giusti Counts, the sound of the river’s flowing water was heard from within their beautiful garden.

The Veronese have the sea in own their backyard. However, this sea is actually a lake, Lake Garda, the largest inland body of water in Italy. It has always seemed a great privilege to live so close to a place where so many millions choose to go on holiday. It’s a special place of striking beauty which always holds a surprise. But, you need to know Garda to enjoy it to the full, starting with the beaches.

The most famous and beautiful beach on the lake is the Baia delle Sirene, (Mermaid’s Bay), which is a few kilometres north of the town of Garda. For years, it was pure adventure getting to this magical place of crystal clear water, immersed in an olive wood. First, one had to park illegally along the road. Then, you had to climb over a gate or squeeze through a hole in the fence and go down steep narrow pathways before getting to this somewhat Paradise.

For some years now, the location has been made legally accessible. There’s a parking fee and you need to pay as well for access to the beach, which is equipped with chairs and services. Its former wild charm is a bit lost, but the place has gained in terms of cleanliness and accessibility. And the beach remains the same, magnificent. It you find it particularly crowded, you can always opt for a more intimate and refined environment, such as Punta San Vigilio (San Vigilio Point), which is located a a few hundred metres before.

A bit further north, just after the promontory of Baia delle Sirene and shortly before the village of Torri del Benaco, there’s an ideal beach for those in search of peace and tranquillity. From the Gardesana road, you will see a simple sign: Lido Brancolino . Go down the steep stairs and you’ll find yourself in an oasis of peace, equipped with beach chairs, showers and a bar.

To get on these beaches, you need to pay a modest entrance fee. However, the beaches most frequented by people from Verona are free. One of the best known is the so-called “Cavalla” (the Mare), located just where the village of Garda begins. It can get quite crowded, especially on weekends, but you will almost always find a spot to spread out your towel before diving in for a refreshing swim.

There are also at least two other places of note in Garda for those who look for music and fun while at the beach. The first is La Motta. This has a kiosk that serves drinks and snacks and many people gather here for an aperitif. The clientele is very young. Crowded parties, especially on Friday nights, are a speciality of the house. The second is the Lido. The crowd here is a bit more mature. They come to dance and listen to live music.

One of the unwritten rules of Lake Garda is that the further north you go, the fresher and more transparent the water becomes. If you don’t believe it, try it. Go to Baia Stanca (Stanca Bay), just after Torri del Benac. Here, the lake has an almost emerald colour. On clear days, you almost seem able to reach out and touch the other side with your finger. From here up to Malcesine, it’s a complete succession of small rocky beaches with magnificent views. You’ll be overwhelmed by the choice.

The Garda experience, however, would not be complete without a stop on the way home for one last drink or dinner, or to trip the light fantastic on the dance floor. In this regard, many from Verona make a stop at Pedrera in Aff, which is just before getting on the motorway.

A dip in the water, a dry towel and a cocktail at sunset. From this point of view, those of us from Verona are truly blessed. We go on vacation every summer without even leaving home.