Toulouse archivos - Page 2 of 4 - VOLARE MAGAZINE

Sure, you could see Toulouse with a tour guide, a map or a satnav…You could also wander around aimlessly hoping to come across some hidden architectural gem or cute little restaurant…Or you could choose a more quirky option! One that shows you the real Toulouse!

1 – The urban treasure hunt

It’s just like a school field trip! Grab your backpack, biro, clipboard and answer sheet and explore Toulouse with the Granhòta urban treasure hunt (€9). You’ll spend more than three hours discovering the city’s monuments, alleyways, townhouses and points of interest. During this time you’ll answer questions about Toulouse’s heritage, hunt for secret codes, decipher rebus puzzles, unscramble anagrams and discover new alphabets. Basically, you’ll find out all about the city, its culture and its famous figures with your team of fellow keen beans. You’ll find out where you can see the remains of St Thomas Aquinas once each year, which top couturier dressed the Black Madonna of Toulouse, and which neighbourhood is haunted by the ghost of Simon de Montfort. You’ll see the oldest Toulousaine house. You’ll dive down mysterious alleyways. And you’ll know all the best tales that the Pink City has to tell.

2 – The real Toulouse

Not really the inquisitive type? Prefer ambling around the city as if you actually lived there? Don’t want to stand out as a tourist? Then give Toulouse Greeters a go! The organisation is made up of residents who give free city tours. They’ll spend at least two hours showing you their neighbourhood and its local cultural, historic and shopping sites. You’ll see their favourite restaurant, their go-to bar, or whatever festival is on right now. Are you a fan of aeronautics, the circus, local crafts, history or street art? Make sure to choose the right “greeter” (your guide) based on your interests and what you would like to see most. Although they aren’t official guides, they’ll be able to show you their very personal experience of the city and share their passion. And it’s totally free!

3 – Compulsive photographers

Are you the sort of person who explores the world through their camera lens? Love sharing your travels on an app? A bit snap happy? Then the “InstaMeet” is your cup of tea! A bunch of photography fans in Toulouse have created a dynamic Instagram group. They meet up for themed walks, photograph the city from its most visually pleasing and unusual angles, and post everything on Instagram with the hashtag #IgersToulouse. These meet-ups are generally open to everyone and are sometimes held outside of the city, in places like Albi and Rocamadour. So check out the Toulouse Instagrammers’ accounts!

Saint-Raymond is both a museum and an archaeological site, located in a former university college built in 1523. Its entrance, which is through a small garden, can be found just opposite the Basilica of Saint Sernin. The museum is at the far end, if you manage to wander through without being distracted by the peaceful benches or cute little café. When you go in, you’re faced with a choice: upstairs or down.

Right at the top, on the second floor, are objects dating from antiquity that have been found in Toulouse and its surrounding areas. These sites have shaped the region’s identity. Downstairs, on the first floor, numerous sculptures of heroes, famous figures and emperors look down on you. Dare to descend into the darkness of the basement and you’ll discover an entire archaeological site featuring part of the Saint Sernin graveyard and a lime kiln in amongst the tombs. Further on, there are sarcophagi and a gallery of epigraphs to round off your tour.

Thinking it sounds a bit morbid? Not on your life! It’s really funky! To get visitors pumped up about antiquity, the Musée Saint-Raymond has really innovated and smashed the stereotype of the boring museum. For starters, the exhibitions include fun activities and make use of digital tools, from videos to 3D reconstructions of the collections, so that visitors can see the displays and the city’s history in a whole new light. And when it comes to guided tours, the museum team has pulled out all the stops. For just €6, you can go on a guided tour for fans of juicy gossip, and discover secrets and stories about the Roman politicians whose sculpted heads are on display in the museum. For an extra €3 on top of your entry fee, you can even sign up for the tour for people who don’t like museums. And the team have done a really good job on it!

In terms of temporary exhibitions and events, the Musée Saint-Raymond is also breaking the mould by flipping between exhibitions of national interest (Greek rituals: a sensory experience has been running since 24 November) and the super hip Jardins Synthétiques arts exhibition. We’re also really looking forward to Valentine’s day for the Soirée Frisson event. But until then, the Musée Saint-Raymond still has plenty of surprises in store.

How about discovering some of Toulouse’s heritage? Often looming behind imposing doorways in the city centre, the hôtels particuliers – grand townhouses or palaces – are some of Toulouse’s greatest hidden treasures. So let’s go and explore a few.

The Hôtel de Bernuy: a beacon of the woad trade

Nowadays, this beautiful palace is home to the school ¨Lycée Pierre de Fermat¨ which has been located on the Hôtel de Bernuy site since the 19^th century. But, that’s not the only thing that has made it famous, the hotel was the first pastel (woad) townhouse in Toulouse and was built in the early 16^th century by Jean de Bernuy, a wealthy woad merchant. In 1553, the king of France himself visited! Having risen to the rank of Capitoul, or chief magistrate of the city, Jean de Bernuy had one of the tallest towers in the city built. You can see it either from Rue Gambetta, where the palace is located, or, for an even better view, from the two magnificent inner courtyards.

Hôtel du Vieux-Raisin: an historic monument

Here’s another palace belonging to a Capitoul, and it’s a good one as well! The Hôtel du Vieux-Raisin was built in the 15^th century just a stone’s throw from the Place des Carmes, at 36 Rue du Languedoc. Never noticed it? That’s perfectly normal as it’s hidden behind a red brick wall. But you can still catch a glimpse of the architectural beauty of this building, which has been a designated historical monument since 1887. Sometimes, if you’re lucky, the gate will be slightly ajar and you’ll be able to nip into the courtyard. There you’ll discover decorative façades and ornate window frames. But what makes it really worth it is the wooden spiral staircase in the back left of the courtyard…shh, it’s a secret!

The Hôtel Dumay: from palace to museum

Built for the doctor Antoine Dumay in 1585, the house bearing his name is a bit plainer than the last one. Just a short walk from the Capitole, at 7 Rue de May, it is now home to the Musée du Vieux Toulouse. The museum contains several exhibition rooms dedicated to the institutions, artists, life and folk traditions of Toulouse. So the palace is super easy to visit! We also love sauntering through the archways of the courtyard, strolling among the trees, and admiring the façades, the rectangular tower, the carved marble and the motto over the lintel.

The Hôtel d’Ulmo: the fruit of ill-gotten gains

The Hôtel d’Ulmo can be found in the Saint-Etienne neighbourhood, in one of the prettiest streets in Toulouse, Rue Ninau. Jean d’Ulmo, a senior legal official at Toulouse’s parliament, had it built in 1526 during his (short-lived) glory days. To cut a long story short, it was funded by fraudulent activities, but that doesn’t make it any less flamboyant. It’s built around a leafy main courtyard and made from a harmonious mix of materials with carved busts, engraved mottos and traditional roses. It’s a shame it’s so well hidden!

Fancy visiting these hidden gems? Want to take a look behind the scenes? Then take part in one of the tours organised by the Toulouse Tourist Office or the Pays d’Oc organisation. Take a step back in time!

The apéritif is a way of life in Toulouse, and in France, wine is sacred. So here is a small selection of places where you can get the best of both and have a great time to boot. Wine bars are popping up all over the place in France’s “pink city”. We’ve picked three that have found the recipe for success.

The illustrious one

Entering Au Père Louis is like entering a time capsule. With its wood panelling, zinc, chandeliers and self-playing piano, this wine bar in Rue des Tourneurs survived the 20th century unscathed and without losing its authenticity. Its unique architecture and classic views of Toulouse painted on the walls mean that, today, it is classed as a historic monument. For almost 130 years (1889, to be precise) patrons have been welcomed to come in and enjoy a drink at the bar. There are no chairs to be found here. Instead, old barrels serve as high tables. Plus there are a few seats outside. It’s the perfect setting for a good old-fashioned apéritif or a glass of fine wine. Whether you prefer dry, sweet or fortified, there’s something for everyone! The curious might want to sample the house apéritif – aromatised wine flavoured with cinchona bark – accompanied by a charcuterie board. In the afternoon, Au Père Louis is also a brasserie. But what we love best, once night falls, is to order a glass at the bar and mingle with the regulars. An unforgettable evening.

The world champion

Fancy something a bit more fashionable? Step into the cave of wonders that is Toulouse’s very own N°5 WINE BAR. In June 2017 it was voted best wine bar in the world by The World of Fine Wine, one of the top wine industry magazines. And with good reason: owner Thomas Cabrol offers a 2500-strong wine list featuring wines from 20 countries. Foreign wines from as far afield as Italy, Croatia and Tasmania are given equal billing with wines from South West France. You can of course sample older vintages and grand crus, including firm favourites Romanée Conti and Pétrus. Thomas will introduce you to each one with his deep, extensive knowledge. Still not sure? How about if we told you that they regularly invite a chef along for food and wine pairing evenings that are always a sell-out? You top up your card at the bar, sample some delicious dishes upstairs or in the vaulted cellar, and serve yourself the matching wines from the selection available in the 5 wine dispensers. All self-service.

The new kid on the block

Aesop’s cheese-loving fox isn’t to be found here, but you can certainly enjoy a nibble of cheese with your wine: welcome to Maitre Renard. This newest of Toulouse’s wine bars has set up shop in an illustrious location and has quickly made a name for itself. It’s always jam-packed! The man behind it is Bastien Vayssière, who opened the venue with a promise of quality and a sociable atmosphere. Running the length of the room is a retro floor, high tables and a zinc bar mounted on a glass wall. It’s a little cramped but that just makes it easier to chat and meet people. The walls have also been decked out in a comic-style nod to other fables. In terms of wine, there’s a menu for each colour and, for each region, a comprehensive selection of a few bottles and a by-the-glass option. The sharing dishes available to order give a real taste of the terroir. Like with the wines, Bastien has selected his products meticulously. It is no doubt the reason behind the staggering success of Maitre Renard. Food is served from 6pm to midnight!

Opened in 1892, the Victor Hugo halls are home to the most famous and largest market in Toulouse. Today, the market welcomes close to a hundred highly reputable merchants, friendly restaurants, and nocturnal festivities.

The merchants

Many dream about having a stall at the Victor Hugo Market. The products sold must live up to the location’s reputation, however. Outside the halls, you can find traditional sellers of fruit and vegetables, and even florists. Once inside, however, the big names of Toulouse stand out: Samaran foie gras, Marty’s matured meats, Bellocq seafood. There are also the new kids on the block: Eléonore’s cabbage, duck by Papaix Et Fils, and Nico’s steaks, among others. In any case, people love doing their gourmet shopping here during the week and meeting friends or family on a Sunday lunchtime at the counter at Chai Vincent… You have a drink together before going upstairs and enjoying a meal in one of the restaurants.

The restaurants

Above the halls, the restaurants are located side by side and you make your choice as you walk along the passageway. There are five in total, and they all have a few small tables on the terrace with a view onto the Victor Hugo neighbourhood. They reportedly serve products bought at the market, but people come here more for the friendly family atmosphere that is typical of Toulouse rather than for the gastronomical delights. Even so, people tend to go for the local specialities such as Gersoise salad, foie gras, duck, pig’s trotters, and the best meat cuts, especially at the restaurant Le Louchebem. For a very reasonable price, no less. It’s no coincidence, then, that on Sundays when the clock strikes two in the afternoon, you will come across many families, groups of friends, and rugby teams. It has become quite the tradition.

Nocturnal festivities

Quickly becoming another tradition in the Pink City, the Victor Hugo nocturnal festivities attract crowds. Organised four times a year and lasting from 6.30pm to 10:30pm, they are meant to bring clients and merchants together for an evening of discussion among gourmets. However, more than 4,000 people turn up to savour meat boards, enjoy a few glasses of red wine, and listen to the street bands in charge of musical entertainment. It is an evening for jovial night owls rather than food lovers. But who would argue with that?

When it comes to street art, Toulouse is one of the pioneering cities in France. Graffiti, vandal tags, monumental works: they colour walls and neighbourhoods, and nowadays are becoming a tourist attraction. A little visit.

A walk accompanied by the Tourist Office

For a few months, the Toulouse Tourist Office has been offering an original walk: discovering the works and the artists of Street Art. From the first approved collective mural in the garden of Embarthe to the very realistic work of the German artist ECB in Empalot, a guide from the Tourist Office and Philippe, a local artist, spend two hours taking us around, on foot and by bus, exploring the gems of Toulouse street art. At the price of €15.

The main frescoes

The visit begins in the Arnaud Bernard district, where street art began. After the garden of Embarthe, we go through Rue Gramat, whose facades have been used for free expression since 2000. This year, it reinvented itself under the colours and brushes of Latino artists, as part of the Latino Graff festival. In the same district, the first Toulouse street artists, Soone, Tilt, 2Pon, Tober, Siker, Ceet and Der, came together in 2017 to create a collective work affixed to the facade of a building. Then we board the bus to Rue Cazeneuve where European artists have posed different styles on the wall of the railway station. We get back on the bus to observe artworks along the road: the ones that decorate the temporary facade that hides the works in the area of Matabiau, the female portraits of Aryz, near the Pont des Demoiselles, JACE’s gouzous along the Canal du Midi, the predominantly yellow wall by Reso at Saouzelong, the Street-Heart association of Maye and Mondé in Saint-Michel, finishing with ECB in Empalot. We will still have missed the murals in the city centre: that by Miss Van on Rue du Pont de Tounis, the one by Amandine Urrutary and Nicolas Barrome on Rue Saint-Ursule and the one by Der, near Rue Alsace Lorraine. It’s up to you to go find them…

Places and festivals

These murals also mark the highlights of festivals dedicated to Toulouse street-art: Latino Graff, the Whoops festival and Rose Béton. Organised by the Toulouse City Council or by voluntary associations, they punctuate the city’s annual cultural programme. Just like the Open Summer Festival and Mister Freeze, those unmissable events at 50cinq, which take place in June and September. From the street, street-art has also moved into galleries and agencies like City Of Talents, which highlight these artists at events and exhibitions. As for the most atypical spots, they may be unsupervised, like the Avenue des Etats-Unis, or a little more uptight, like the bedrooms of the Hôtel des Beaux-Arts. Everyone is surfing the wave of this trend and its growing number of artists, which allows the city to make this artistic movement a new tourist attraction.

In December, Toulouse is covered in pretty lights and decked out in decorations. The city takes on a special magical feel with its main Christmas market as well as a range of other smaller ones.

Place du Capitole Christmas Market

At the end of November Place du Capitole is filled with a sea of immaculate white huts. This is the official Toulouse City Hall Christmas market and the locals get a little more excited about it each year! With homeware, jewellery, games, toys and clothes stalls, this is a place you can come to do your gift shopping. People also visit to enjoy some delicious treats including sweets, meats and cheeses. However, the favourite visitor activity is to have a traditional aligot cheese and potato dish with a warm glass of good wine before heading deep into the centre of the market. With a bit of luck Santa will be there and only too happy to have his photo taken!

The Alternative Charity Market

For those looking for a more altruistic approach to the holiday season, Toulouse City Hall also organises a charity artisan Christmas market on Allées Jules Guesde. From 9 December you can buy from artisans and charities as well as enjoy the range of entertainment on offer. With creative workshops, magical kids’ shows, storytelling, face painting, bands, artistic performances and more there will be something for all ages…and for a Christmas with real meaning!

Artist Markets

In December, Toulouse also puts on some independent events highlighting the work of local artisans. Locations all over the city host markets with stalls run by artists and creators. For example, on 9 and 10 December you can visit a new arty location, Atelier Brooklyn, for the Etsy Made in France market! Meanwhile, Place des Carmes is the venue for the traditional Cré’art31 artists’ winter market and Place Saint Pierre is holding the fourth year of Noël des créateurs organised by the Fait Main 31 association. From 8 to 22 December you can keep the chill at bay with Noël En Wax at the Salon de Marvejol and its afro-tropic ambience which makes us dream of lively and colourful gifts. Finally, every weekend in December CREATIVE PINK sets up in Place de la Daurade. And this is not even a comprehensive list of everything going on!

So, this year Christmas is worth celebrating in Toulouse, wouldn’t you say?!

Have you heard about these little neighborhood theatres in Toulouse that often put on quality shows using troupes of local actors for audiences of local people? Théâtre du Grand Rond, du Pont Neuf, du Pavé, du Fil à Plomb… to name but a few! It’s time to check them out!

Théâtre du Grand-Rond: concerts with drinks, young audiences and local productions

The mission of this small theatre? To offer musical training and shows by emerging regional companies. A double programme has been set up to do that. At 7 pm, ‘pay what you want’ concerts with drinks begin, and then at 9 pm, the spotlight is on the show in the main theatre. A demanding selection committee handles programming by working with a club of passionate audience members with a shared cultural goal. At the Théâtre du Grand Rond, there’s plenty for the young and the not so young. And with the suspended ticket, which you can buy for someone else, or ask for if you’re strapped for cash, there’s something for everyone! There’s laughter, emotion and in a register that’s always intelligent!

Théâtre du Pont Neuf, creation and residence

A venue, companies: these are the foundations of this little theatre. The Théâtre du Pont Neuf (the TPN, to its friends) is in a state of constant effervescence, but is firmly attached to its base, despite the risks. The Saint Cyprien neighborhood theatre is managed by local companies working together for the artistic coordination of the project. This theatre focuses on the residency of artists and original creation. It opens to the public during festivals, for special performances and workshops where you feel rather privileged to be able to take part.

Théâtre du Pavé, contemporary forms and live performance

Next stop, the Saint-Michel neighborhood and the Théâtre du Pavé, a small cultural venue managed by director Francis Azéma. The theatre offers the creations of the resident company, “Les Vagabonds”, shows by regional companies, and intimate jazz concerts. It’s also a good place to have a drink at the bar before the show or to make the most of the tables under the lanterns in summer.

Théâtre du Fil à Plomb: eclecticism and conviviality

Last stop: the Arnaud Bernard neighborhood! Hidden at the back of a courtyard, the Théâtre du Fil à Plomb was given a makeover in 2016. It has been extended to provide a greater feeling of space… It is the shining light of quality popular culture with an eclectic but intense programme of modern comedy, classical theatre, shadow plays and one-man shows. Keeping up with the times!

Carnets pleins feux: the union of small cultural venues

The Théâtre Le Fil à Plomb, the Théâtre du Grand Rond, the Théâtre du Pont Neuf, Théâtre du Pavé and also the Théâtre de la Violette, Le Vent des Signes, Le Hangar, Théâtre du Chien Blanc, the Cave Poésie and the Bijou: ten venues in total, ten outlets for the culture of Toulouse have united around the Carnets Plein Feux season-ticket scheme. This is a book of 5 seat tickets that allow you to see shows in all of these venues at a reduced rate (€40 per book i.e. €8 per seat). The aim is to inform the general public of the abundance and diversity of shows and to promote local theatre and conviviality. A good deal!

Do you have a love of hiking? This new trail is perfect for you. With its 170-kilometre route between Toulouse and Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges, the Via Garona beckons walkers to come and discover the region, the banks of the Garonne river, and the forty-one municipalities dotted along its path. You’ll even be trailblazers. The route has only just been opened.

Start: Toulouse, in front of the Saint-Sernin Basilica.

The experienced walkers will then set off on a 170-kilometre walk: 22 kilometres per day, for around a week, until they reach the Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges Cathedral. Along the way, they’ll see some beautiful sights: the towns of Muret, Carbonne, Rieux-Volvestre and Saint-Gaudens. They’ll come across at least six historical monuments, as well as covered markets, museums, caves, ruins and gardens… They’ll discover tall willow trees, grey herons, egrets, and lush greenery, whilst also getting to know the Garonne river. At night, after a challenging day of walking, they’ll have the chance to set up their bivouac, pitch their tent, or make the most of the lodges which are gradually popping up in the villages along the route, such as in Castillon-de-Saint-Martory (€15 per night).

Other destinations: wherever takes your fancy

The others – the weekend strollers – will be happy to walk some of the route around Toulouse. The path is accessible to everyone. They’ll stop off in Cazères and visit the water sports centre for a little boat cruise along the river (€30). They’ll enjoy a picnic on the banks of the Garonne, or find somewhere for a bite to eat along the way: why not try the Domaine de la Terrasse in Carbonne? They’ll visit the Bonnefont Abbey (€3 for a guided tour, Wednesdays to Sundays from 2pm to 6pm), with its medieval-style garden, and its exhibitions… They’ll end up under the shade of the parasols in the newly-opened bar, sipping a fresh juice or a local craft beer.

Beware: preparation is key

Whether you’re an experienced hiker or an amateur walker, be prepared before setting off. To help with this, visit the Haute-Garonne website: you’ll find the right routes to take, the things to see and do during each stage of your walk, and the accommodation and restaurant options along your journey. So, just throw on your shoes, and stay close to the river banks. Once you’re on the path, follow the markers – they’ll keep you on the right track.

Love the thrills and spills of being on the water? In Toulouse and the surrounding area you can try new and fun watersports. Canoeing, wakeboarding, boating, water-skiing… Although the area lacks sea and waves, there are lots of bodies of water and original ideas!

Wakeboarding on Lake Sesquières

From April to October, Téléski Nautique de Sesquières cable skiing is open to the public. It features a cable which pulls thrill seekers along at 30 km/h over a 750 m-long course. With one roof, one A-frame, four kickers, one box, one flat bar and one dragon, the range of modules round the lake encourage boarders to have a go at lots of different tricks. Beginner? No worries: you can also do kneeboarding (kneeling on a board) or water-skiing. You can whizz all over the lake throughout the summer between 10am and 9pm. It’s €19 for an hour and you can borrow all the kit you need!

Water-Skiing on the River Garonne

Always dreamt of water-skiing in the centre of town? Well, in Toulouse your dream can come true! Le Ski Club de la Péniche is open daily from midday to 8pm for water-skiing sessions on the River Garonne. Pulled along by a boat, you will pass the Pont Neuf and wave to people walking in the Daurade area and revellers in Place Saint-Pierre. But don’t come a cropper! As well as water-skiing sessions (from €32), the club offers introductions to Stand Up Paddleboarding and tubing for groups. Ready to hit the water?

Canoeing on the River Ariège

On Saturday mornings, Canoë Kayak Toulousain canoe and kayak will take you out to discover the natural and cultural heritage between Lacroix-Falgarde and the edge of Toulouse. In the Réserve Naturelle Régionale Confluence Garonne-Ariège natural reserve, young and old alike can paddle individually or in groups, enjoying the flow, fauna and flora of the River Ariège. Departure: 9:30am for a three-hour trip costing €25.

Boating on the Canal du Midi

No boating licence? No problem! NaviCanal lends out small electric boats which are easy to drive and environmentally-friendly. “That’s not sport,” you cry…but the adventure is worth it! You can calmly enjoy the banks and surroundings of the Canal for two hours, alone or in a group of up to five people (from €30). Shall we be off?